Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

[Matthew Jeschke]

De trunnioned! These rocker arms cleaned up awesome in the harbor freight parts cleaner. The needle bearings were in really gd shape even at 240k miles. Once cleaned, aside from pushrod and valve wear marks, could have mistaken it for a new part.

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[wjburken]

De trunnioned! These rocker arms cleaned up awesome in the harbor freight parts cleaner. The needle bearings were in really gd shape even at 240k miles. Once cleaned, aside from pushrod and valve wear marks, could have mistaken it for a new part.

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Looks good.

What did you use for a detergent in your cleaner.

If you haven’t, take a piece of regular aluminum foil and cut a piece that fits corner to corner without touching the sides and hold the foil by an edge in the solution for 60s and then look at how much dimpling you get in the foil.

If you do this at temperature with and without detergent, you should see more dimpling (cavitation activity) with the detergent.

This will give a base line of how your cleaner is operating so in a month or a year, or whenever, you can run the test again and see if you have lost performance in your cleaner due to a bad transducer or generator.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I am using the stuff from harbor freight. It was sold near the parts cleaner. I don't believe it is a solvent, but something more like simple green.

I want to follow up with a short dip in mineral spirits before I install anything in the motor. Then dip in break in oil (non detergent high zinc).

I did the aluminum foil test per your suggestion. Great advice. I hadn't thought of that. It was in for atat least 60s. Appears uneffected.

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[wjburken]

I am using the stuff from harbor freight. It was sold near the parts cleaner. I don't believe it is a solvent, but something more like simple green.

I want to follow up with a short dip in mineral spirits before I install anything in the motor. Then dip in break in oil (non detergent high zinc).

I did the aluminum foil test per your suggestion. Great advice. I hadn't thought of that. It was in for atat least 60s. Appears uneffected.

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Looks like you used “heavy duty” foil. You need to use regular, cheap foil.

 

[wjburken]

I am using the stuff from harbor freight. It was sold near the parts cleaner. I don't believe it is a solvent, but something more like simple green.

I want to follow up with a short dip in mineral spirits before I install anything in the motor. Then dip in break in oil (non detergent high zinc).

I did the aluminum foil test per your suggestion. Great advice. I hadn't thought of that. It was in for atat least 60s. Appears uneffected.

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Here is a video that shows what I’m talking about. Not sure why she folds it in half, but shows the effect I’m describing on the foil.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I just have a solvent tub. It has a little pump in it but is not ultrasonic. wish it was but I'm not that rich :/

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[wjburken]

I just have a solvent tub. It has a little pump in it but is not ultrasonic. wish it was but I'm not that rich :/

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Ha! My bad!

I thought you bought a ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Ha! My bad!

I thought you bought a ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html

Wow, I didnt know they sold that :/ I may have been tempted to buy it instead.


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[Matthew Jeschke]

I've begun taking apart the pistons, and rocker arms. A guy sold me the full float pistons and rods, only they had the LQ4 pistons. I removed those pistons earlier. I was unsure how to remove the wrist pin as despite they are full float it's still in there pretty good. I watched Youtube and about had a heart attack. The first video that came up was a guy smacking the wrist pin with a hammer.

Bit of off topic discussion. I've been a bit torn about doing this. I LOVE mechanic work and am ALWAYS tinkering. A big part of my day job is video production. I have all of my own equipment I use in my business and lots of experience producing videos.

I've long since thought, I should really make videos for the truck. I hate to be vain but I cannot make videos for free. Youtube model was quite enticing years ago but is very difficult to qualify for revenue sharing now (requires 1000+ subscribers & substantial view time each month).

I do make ad revenue but not on truck videos. I'd likely need to launch a whole new channel / brand for that. Not sure if that would be something you guys would be interested in, maybe I should just do it anyways? Long story short, that guy on youtube made me cringe. In the least I'm going to probably throw up this video I quick made...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FyUZ3HkeiEYnRJB2yKFYt-DjxODsqcWO/view?usp=sharing

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

My #7 cylinder was hydrolocked and snapped the rod. I'm trying to figure out if the crankshaft can be reused? I'm not quite sure how to test it... I have watched lots of youtube to see how machine shops test it. When I pull the block I'll take out the pistons and see how well the crank spins. Not sure if there's much more I can do than that? Magnaflux it to look for stress cracks?

 

[Tonyrodz]

My #7 cylinder was hydrolocked and snapped the rod. I'm trying to figure out if the crankshaft can be reused? I'm not quite sure how to test it... I have watched lots of youtube to see how machine shops test it. When I pull the block I'll take out the pistons and see how well the crank spins. Not sure if there's much more I can do than that? Magnaflux it to look for stress cracks?

Is the 5.3 crank different then a 6.0 crank?

 

[wjburken]

My #7 cylinder was hydrolocked and snapped the rod. I'm trying to figure out if the crankshaft can be reused? I'm not quite sure how to test it... I have watched lots of youtube to see how machine shops test it. When I pull the block I'll take out the pistons and see how well the crank spins. Not sure if there's much more I can do than that? Magnaflux it to look for stress cracks?

If you get it “Magnafluxed” I’d see if they can do it with Half-Wave DC current. I think it is the best current type to use on a crank shaft. When I designed equipment for Magnaflux, we built a lot of units for checking crank shafts.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

@Tonyrodz The 5.3L and 6.0L use the same crank so far as I know. Other than there is some wankey difference between the earlier model 5.3L cranks where the pressure plate bolts up. I think that was mentioned earlier in this tread. I have the newer style so I think is exactly the same crank.

@wjburken Thanks! I've been watching LOTS Of youtube on how to check cranks. I'm going to measure and observe what I can. Then if it's good I want to take into machine shop when I have heads rebuilt. I'll have them run that test you mention. I have also been half tempted to buy the Magnaflux paint stuff but it's SUPER expensive.

I'm thinking the failure mode on these cranks and rods isn't so much a bend, but rather a crack, or perhaps a deformed journal? I want to doubly ensure there's no damage to grain of metal such that it creates issues further down the road.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I am going to save a note here. Ordered my wideband for when to tune. It seems dual wideband is pointless... so got single sensor, AEM uego w/ 4.9 bosch sensor. Has a lambda face, as bit easier to tune with a direct ratio.

Don't get 4.2 style sensor isn't as accurate and requires periodic calibration. The 4.9 is self calibrating.

Here's what I want to save. They say cylinder #7 tends to be the leanest. You want to install the sensor closest to the #7 cylinder at the collector. Basically right after collector / manifold merges to downpipe on driver side.

Next bung needs to go on top half of exhaust pipe to avoid it capturing moisture / so it self drains. Best if is at top but not always possible.

Note, if reading lean but then heats up and reads richer... there is a gd chance there are pinhole leaks in welding for wideband bung.

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[Tonyrodz]

I am going to save a note here. Ordered my wideband for when to tune. It seems dual wideband is pointless... so got single sensor, AEM uego w/ 4.9 bosch sensor. Has a lambda face, as bit easier to tune with a direct ratio.

Don't get 4.2 style sensor isn't as accurate and requires periodic calibration. The 4.9 is self calibrating.

Here's what I want to save. They say cylinder #7 tends to be the leanest. You want to install the sensor closest to the #7 cylinder at the collector. Basically right after collector / manifold merges to downpipe on driver side.

Next bung needs to go on top half of exhaust pipe to avoid it capturing moisture / so it self drains. Best if is at top but not always possible.

Note, if reading lean but then heats up and reads richer... there is a gd chance there are pinhole leaks in welding for wideband bung.

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Do you have a link to the one you bought?

 

[Bear77]

Yes, I too would like to see what a lambda face looks like! Especially since not knowing any better I was looking to buy the dual version.


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[Matthew Jeschke]

The gauge HERE is the one I bought It's AEM 30-4110 UEGO kit.

I'd have LOVED something that would simply sticky to the outside of the windshield then patched in through the EGR circuit to get the signal to HP tuners. However, I don't think they make anything like that

This one you have to figure out how to route cables into the cabin which is a royal PITA. You also have to have HP tuners Pro interface with the analog inputs on it (I do have that). However, it's not a very clean setup. Seems nobody makes one like I had hoped for.

To be honest, it crossed my mind... To design a circuit that would allow you to plug these into the existing O2 sensors. Split off a narrow band signal and wide band. Wide band would patch into the EGR, and narrow band would go to the PCM. Or better yet, if there's an unpopulated A2D ports on the PCM that could be used. If only I had more time haha

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I ran into a minor hurdle. I'm tearing down and inspecting the used connecting rods I bought. I found a flat surface, the granite in my kitchen. It's flat to within 0.003". I put the connecting rods on it.

Are rods flat enough? Trying to make sure they aren't bent...

One side has no play at all as I push down on the various corners of the rod. The other side has enough play to notice when pushing on the rod. It appears to be less than 0.003" off. Not sure if that is spec or not? It appears that way on two rods I tested. It is also on the same surface of the two rods.

All this aside, when I look closer and feel with my finger, there's some "boogers" on those sides. I attemted cleaning those with B12 chemtool, starter fluid, and even gumout. None had any effect. I almost wonder if is a slight bit of rust. The guy I bought the rods from didn't have them exactly protected / stored well. I've been cleaning everything up, then putting a light coat of WD40 and placing them in ziploc bags.


Maybe it's a none issue, especially if is side that is next to crank as I don't think there's as much contact surface there no? Either way I watched some machine shop videos and they polish with down to 320 grit sandpaper. My thought was to get a piece of scrap granite from work, test to make sure it's flat. Then attach a piece of 400 or higher grit sandpaper to it. Then gently pass the rod over that surface to polish out the bogger.

Changing connecting rod bolts?

I read that the connecting rod bolts can be reused 3 times. This is designed as such so you can check bearing clearances with plasti gauge. I have no clue how many time these bolts have been used. My guess is they've been used once as bearings still have GM markings on them (original bearings). Either way, I think I'd rest better changing them. However, I cannot figure out how to get them out of the cap. They appear pressed in with some sort of sleeve. There must be a way as they sell the bolts.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Getten r dun. This should be easy tobbn pull!

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[Matthew Jeschke]

Did some more work tearing it down today. Only 2 bell housing bots and the motor mounts holding it in now.

I also ordered the harmonic balancer puller. I think it would be prudent to get a new harmonic balancer? I assume mine has 240,000 miles on it. Looking at these ATI ones, Summit Racing makes a knock off one like them. Otherwise, I'm thinking the stock balancer does a good enough job, just get another GM balancer?