List of Repairs - DIY or Mechanic?

[Lancem]

I don't see anything I couldn't do in the driveway my only thought on the whole thing is why change just one shock in the front? If one is bad the other can't be far behind, I would change them both.

 

[zwanzon]

Those are some insane labor rates. The ball joints are just ball joints, no control arms in the quote. Once the truck was up on the lift any decent mechanic could remove and replace those ball joints while simultaneously flipping the pages of his ******* and finish the whole job in 30 - 45 minutes flat. I just replaced the control arms with ball joints , stabilizer links, tie rods, struts, pads and rotors all at once on my Cadillac DTS. Definitely different vehicle, but I can tell you any garage mechanic can do it. However I will predicate it on this, its a fair amount of work you are proposing. It took me 3 weekends to do all the work I mentioned, because a. I am not inclined to do it all at once, and b. I didn't need the vehicle. I worked 2 - 4 hours each day, total of 4 days out of the 3 weeks.

My advice: 1. You need to know what you are doing when you start out with regards to safety. You need torque wrenches and torque tables. You need more than simple wrenches to do this type of work. It takes planning to have everything ready. You need ramps, jack stands, jacks, etc. You need the parts, and all the tools, you need the time and a place to do it. Finally , although the people on forums like this will tell you its simple, it because they are experienced. If you are experienced you will still have a challenge ahead of you , but of course its doable.

If it were me I would not want to tackle it this time of year, cause I like relaxing during the holidays, but if I was 20 I would eat it up!

Hey Bill. I actually did the same thing with my 350z. Rebuilt the entire suspension (it's a 2003). I'm talking every, single, part. Like you, it took me three+ weekends as well. I understand the the challanges ahead, just as @Darryl pointed out - things do not always go as planned. Again, I was just looking for advice from anyone who's done any of these repairs themselves.

 

[zwanzon]

I don't see anything I couldn't do in the driveway my only thought on the whole thing is why change just one shock in the front? If one is bad the other can't be far behind, I would change them both.

I saw that as well. I think it was a typo and he forgot to put quantity to "2".

 

[Derick]

DEFINITELY do the shocks and joints yourself. Super easy, but one caveat is to rent to the tool from Oreillys or whatever. Shocker as it may seem, the ball joint press from harbor freight isn't strong enough for these beasts.

That said, if your control arms are all rusted out, then definitely replace them in one component as suggested earlier.

 

[zwanzon]

DEFINITELY do the shocks and joints yourself. Super easy, but one caveat is to rent to the tool from Oreillys or whatever. Shocker as it may seem, the ball joint press from harbor freight isn't strong enough for these beasts.

That said, if your control arms are all rusted out, then definitely replace them in one component as suggested earlier.

Thanks Derick. I will probably replace the whole arm on both sides.

 

[Derick]

My other concern is that if you're going so far as to drop the oil pan and replace the gaskets......you might as well just replace the damn pump. If you dont have record of it being done, you might as well do it. They have a tendency to have a sticky ball/check valve, and apparently that will toast the engine. If you're dropping the pan, you'll have access to the oil pickup tube. You can get the replacement pump and pickup tube as a set at rockauto. Seems reasonable to do both because you're existing pickup tube might be crudded up.

As for shocks, go billstein. 33 bucks a pop. (not sure on the tahoe though, probably a different part number but I'm sure a similar price)

 

[Derick]

Oh, and as for the control arms...generally a super easy job...generally. Unless your bushings are seized to the bolts. Then you're in for a treat. I'd highly suggest getting some cams and pins to have on standby in case you crack a cam, or pop out a pin. I cracked a single cam, and lost 2 pins because a bushing was sized up. I beat on that thing for about 2 hours with a hammer, and a torch. Good times.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1393845&cc=1433420

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=962908&cc=1433420

 

[zwanzon]

My other concern is that if you're going so far as to drop the oil pan and replace the gaskets......you might as well just replace the damn pump. If you dont have record of it being done, you might as well do it. They have a tendency to have a sticky ball/check valve, and apparently that will toast the engine. If you're dropping the pan, you'll have access to the oil pickup tube. You can get the replacement pump and pickup tube as a set at rockauto. Seems reasonable to do both because you're existing pickup tube might be crudded up.

As for shocks, go billstein. 33 bucks a pop. (not sure on the tahoe though, probably a different part number but I'm sure a similar price)

Great to know. This is the type of advice I really appreciate as it saves me from doing it all again in another year potentially.

 

[kbuskill]

Great to know. This is the type of advice I really appreciate as it saves me from doing it all again in another year potentially.

Also if you do change the oil pump you may as well change the timing chain because you have to pull it to change the oil pump.

When I did mine, I replaced the oil pump, oil pump pickup tube O-ring, and the timing chain with an LS2 chain.

GM says the timing chain is good for 200k miles.

 

[jz57]

The lower ball joint has its crimped lip, without removing the crimped lip with a chisel, the ball joint can not be pressed out without damaged Aluminum lower control arm.

The real labor should be higher than i hour.

....
Once the truck was up on the lift any decent mechanic could remove and replace those ball joints while simultaneously flipping the pages of his ******* and finish the whole job in 30 - 45 minutes flat.
.....

 

[thompsoj22]

The lower ball joint has its crimped lip, without removing the crimped lip with a chisel, the ball joint can not be pressed out without damaged Aluminum lower control arm.

The real labor should be higher than i hour.

Ill also respectfully add my opinion of 30/45 minutes doing both lower ball joints would require the stars to align with the cosmos and donald trump and nancy pelosi to be spotted at a sandals resort!

 

[kbuskill]

While 30-45 mins may be a bit of a stretch they are really not that bad.

Hit the ball joint lip with a grinder and you can usually knock them out with a couple good blows from a ball peen hammer if you don't have a ball joint press.

Biggest thing to remember is to get the appropriate ball joints for your truck.

There is a difference between the ball joints for the steel VS aluminum control arms.

 

[zwanzon]

Hey Guys, I appreciate again all the support here. I decided to do the suspension portion this weekend. Here is the list of products I have in my cart, about to click purchase.

I thought I'd just run it by here to make sure I'm doing this correctly. I decided since I'm doing new shocks, I might as well do a small lift/level as well. Here's the list:

1) Bilstein 24-186940 Front Shock Absorber x2
2) Bilstein 24-187237 Rear Shock Absorber x2
3) Moog 81069 Springs (Front)
4) Moog 81244 Springs (Rear)
5) Moog K160072 Coil Spring Insulator x8
6) Rough Country (1307) 2" Front End
7) Belltech 35323 Spring Distance Kit 1" (Rear)
8) Moog K500007 Ball Joint (for aluminum arms) x2

 

[Derick]

Awww hellz yea. Hey the less you spend on the mechanic labor, the more cool **** you can put in your truck. amirite?!

 

[zwanzon]

Awww hellz yea. Hey the less you spend on the mechanic labor, the more cool **** you can put in your truck. amirite?!

Absolutely! They wanted $1,100 for shocks and ball joints. I'm doing all of those + the level/lift + springs for only $717

 

[zwanzon]

Oh, and as for the control arms...generally a super easy job...generally. Unless your bushings are seized to the bolts. Then you're in for a treat. I'd highly suggest getting some cams and pins to have on standby in case you crack a cam, or pop out a pin. I cracked a single cam, and lost 2 pins because a bushing was sized up. I beat on that thing for about 2 hours with a hammer, and a torch. Good times.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1393845&cc=1433420

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=962908&cc=1433420

@Derick - Are you recommending getting these for the lower, aluminum control arms?

 

[Derick]

Those are for the upper control arms.

 

[Thebesta94]

I just replaced heater hoses for $55... the hose was 42 and the pack of quick connect releases from oriely was about 12.50... took about 30 minutes

And just ordered new heavy duty control arms for 450, and assume it will take a few hours.

As for the rest I'd say you could most likely do yourself after a couple YouTube videos. But I wouldn't reccomend trying to align it

Good luck!

 

[zwanzon]

I just replaced heater hoses for $55... the hose was 42 and the pack of quick connect releases from oriely was about 12.50... took about 30 minutes

And just ordered new heavy duty control arms for 450, and assume it will take a few hours.

As for the rest I'd say you could most likely do yourself after a couple YouTube videos. But I wouldn't reccomend trying to align it

Good luck!

Thanks @Thebesta94. Did you find a youtube for the heater hose replacements? I just ordered RC uppers. Since taking apart my whole suspension last weekend, I know it's only about 30-45min per side to do UCA's.

 

[Thebesta94]

Thanks @Thebesta94. Did you find a youtube for the heater hose replacements? I just ordered RC uppers. Since taking apart my whole suspension last weekend, I know it's only about 30-45min per side to do UCA's.

Yea, the one below shows how to use quick connect, test is pretty basic