Running an AFM deleted engine without turning it off will throw all sorts of codes. I would bet the torque converter codes are related. I would also expect abs and stabiltrack codes. Random misfire codes. Etc. I would expect all that to disappear after deactivating AFM so the ECM isn't looking for an attempting to activate the system.
Ideas? Help with a DOD/ AFM Deleted 2011 Escalade 6.2
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Running an AFM deleted engine without turning it off will throw all sorts of codes. I would bet the torque converter codes are related. I would also expect abs and stabiltrack codes. Random misfire codes. Etc. I would expect all that to disappear after deactivating AFM so the ECM isn't looking for an attempting to activate the system.
solli5pack
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I used him 2yrs ago when I did my delete. Worked out great! Had the computer back in 4 days. I believe he's on the east coast somewhere.
How much is the Diablo Predator versus like a Blackberry tune?
Seems like black bear has fantastic results for everybody on this board that uses it. Kind of a middle ground. a custom tune but also without the learning curve of hp tuners. Tuning for a camshaft drivability and idle is probably the hardest thing to do with HP tuners. wot is easier to learn
Seems like black bear has fantastic results for everybody on this board that uses it. Kind of a middle ground. a custom tune but also without the learning curve of hp tuners. Tuning for a camshaft drivability and idle is probably the hardest thing to do with HP tuners. wot is easier to learn
solli5pack
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Isn't getting an old AFM valley plate and plugging it in while laying on the motor an option? Just to see if the codes go away?
can't hurt to try.
I think it still doesn't run right if it goes into 4cyl mode, it cuts fuel off to the injectors. the crazed guy's kit can include some resistor to stick in there, says it can help get you to a tuner to disable.
No, because it's looking for a response from the AFM solenoids..... And then cutting fuel to the AFM cylinders. It's pretty much all or nothing when it comes to AFM components.
If going with an aftermarket non-vvt camshaft, I think a black bear tune is probably the way to go.
If you're keeping the VVT, and using an oem non-vvt camshaft, I would go with the Diablo. Gives you control over a lot of easy to change features. Even tire size.
I personally would not go for just sending off the ECM to get AFM turned off. There's a lot more you can do either with a Diablo or a black bear tune to extend the life of your transmission and such. That is worth more, then just getting the AFM turned off. The AFM disablers that you simply plug into the OBD2 port only deactivate the AFM in the in the ECM..... Probably cheaper these days than sending the ECM off to have it turned off. I've noticed several are for sale now under $60.
The Diablo sport predator 2 for GM is below. Not sure what black bears charging these days.
https://www.autocado.com/p/diablosp...NwJDPUogEZFCXZWvaxppVo7QceExXl16QqCxKHg&gQT=2
https://www.autocado.com/p/diablosp...NwJDPUogEZFCXZWvaxppVo7QceExXl16QqCxKHg&gQT=2
as I understand it, if you delete afm the little plug is ones still don't work. it's gotta be ecm code level..
plus the emissions testing issues if it didn't work. you'd never be aeyo unplug it to set the monitors
AFM is not related to anything emissions related. If anything, the engine would probably even run cleaner at idle.
The device you just plug into the OBD2 port completely disables AFM while it's plugged in. (I've heard the thinking behind that is it gives you a way to disable AFM without deleting the actual hardware. Might be useful for a vehicle under warranty..... You could always drop by the dealer for whatever reason, unplugging it first.)
However, with the AFM hardware still there you run the risk of failure, particularly the AFM lifters. It should in theory prolong the time before the AFM system fails though.
Lifespan of the AFM components? It's a gamble. Some fail at 10,000 miles. A few make it past 200,000 miles. My guess based on postings in the forum, I think the average falls between 120,000 and 170,000.
The device you just plug into the OBD2 port completely disables AFM while it's plugged in. (I've heard the thinking behind that is it gives you a way to disable AFM without deleting the actual hardware. Might be useful for a vehicle under warranty..... You could always drop by the dealer for whatever reason, unplugging it first.)
However, with the AFM hardware still there you run the risk of failure, particularly the AFM lifters. It should in theory prolong the time before the AFM system fails though.
Lifespan of the AFM components? It's a gamble. Some fail at 10,000 miles. A few make it past 200,000 miles. My guess based on postings in the forum, I think the average falls between 120,000 and 170,000.
.... It should be noted that there are always exceptions. Regarding emissions testing. A 'properly' done AFM delete in places like California, means replacing the camshaft with an oem camshaft designed for the same engine without AFM. (Such as using the L92 camshaft in place of the L94 that has AFM) I've done a few of these for people nearby that live in an area with emissions testing, and they have all passed just fine.
The exception.... You start modifying the parameters under which the engine runs, for example with an aftermarket high lift camshaft, it will take a degree of skill in tuning to ensure it passes emission testing. The tuning involves changing things like the fuel mapping. I'm sure there's more than a few tuners that have this mastered.
When using an oem camshaft made for the same engine that didn't come with AFM, the only tuning is to turn off the AFM. All the other parameters stay the same.
If you take for example the L94 and the L9H/L92 engine, they coexisted and overlapped during certain model years. Some of the pickups came with the L9H, which is identical to the L94, except it did not have AFM. Other than the AFM, the engines are identical flex fuel engines. Both pass emissions just fine. The same scenario applies in the 6 liter and 5.3 liter engines.
And remember that AFM by it's very design, frequently turns off the combustion process to 4 cylinders. That's asking for more carbon deposits as the normal oil film on the cylinder wall doesn't get a chance to burn off until the cylinder fires. Depending on how polluted those cylinders get, it could result in increased emissions.
The exception.... You start modifying the parameters under which the engine runs, for example with an aftermarket high lift camshaft, it will take a degree of skill in tuning to ensure it passes emission testing. The tuning involves changing things like the fuel mapping. I'm sure there's more than a few tuners that have this mastered.
When using an oem camshaft made for the same engine that didn't come with AFM, the only tuning is to turn off the AFM. All the other parameters stay the same.
If you take for example the L94 and the L9H/L92 engine, they coexisted and overlapped during certain model years. Some of the pickups came with the L9H, which is identical to the L94, except it did not have AFM. Other than the AFM, the engines are identical flex fuel engines. Both pass emissions just fine. The same scenario applies in the 6 liter and 5.3 liter engines.
And remember that AFM by it's very design, frequently turns off the combustion process to 4 cylinders. That's asking for more carbon deposits as the normal oil film on the cylinder wall doesn't get a chance to burn off until the cylinder fires. Depending on how polluted those cylinders get, it could result in increased emissions.
when you plug in the afm dongle, it blocks the ecm going thru its emissions readiness testing. especially the evap one that can take weeks to pass. most emissions testing these days is just them plugging in and reading if the monitors say pass/fail or unavailable.
the dongle while keeping it out of 4cyl mode, also leaves the monitors on unavailable. there's a bunch of threads about it on here.
another side effect that's mostly theory, but feels like it is a likely a good one. if you run for a long time without the lifters collapsing, oil still seeps thru and around inside the lifters, if varnish builds up, and then you have to remove the dongle to drive around a week to complete the drive cycle to pass emissions, the varnish build up is raising the risk of them sticking.
afm is always a risk and even then somehow none afm lifters fail too. it's kinda blah.
Jeffdylanproctor
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ok, so I just got home and the AFM dongle for the OBDII was in. With the codes cleared, I drove it for about 20mins and was very pleased, or at least mostly, lol.
It never got stuck in the weak/sluggish mode that it was doing before, and was responding like I would expect it to when below 2,000 RPMS.
This allowed me to realize the "surging" sensation I notcied before is definately connected to when the transmission is in 6th at a mild cruise, like below 40mph. Also, with the AFM dongle plugged in, this "surging" sensation is so subtle I doubt my wife would ever notice it, as it is nothing like it is without the AFM dongle plugged in.
Thus, I think the best thing for me to do is to have the AFM removed in the ECM and move onto other areas of the truck.
How do the temperature hands normally behave on these? I'm pretty sure I can see the thermostat open and close, and if I drive it for my 45 min commute, I have a few times witnessed the temp hand rise one of the little notches, sometimes as much as two little nothces past the middle, but only for a moment, never staying there long. I've topped off the coolant a few times, and it spits out any excess... It's the sort of thing my eyes have been burning up with attention, so it's not like I'm ignoring it, and it only does it on a very rare occasion. Could this have been related to the ECM not working right due to the AFM? Or is this a normal behavior, or a sign of something else? I let it idle for a long time in the driveway and took this picture.
Also, the Temp Hand is higher when the engine is off (after getting up to running temp, not cold, of course) but then comes back down to normal after a few seconds of being started back up.
It never got stuck in the weak/sluggish mode that it was doing before, and was responding like I would expect it to when below 2,000 RPMS.
This allowed me to realize the "surging" sensation I notcied before is definately connected to when the transmission is in 6th at a mild cruise, like below 40mph. Also, with the AFM dongle plugged in, this "surging" sensation is so subtle I doubt my wife would ever notice it, as it is nothing like it is without the AFM dongle plugged in.
Thus, I think the best thing for me to do is to have the AFM removed in the ECM and move onto other areas of the truck.
How do the temperature hands normally behave on these? I'm pretty sure I can see the thermostat open and close, and if I drive it for my 45 min commute, I have a few times witnessed the temp hand rise one of the little notches, sometimes as much as two little nothces past the middle, but only for a moment, never staying there long. I've topped off the coolant a few times, and it spits out any excess... It's the sort of thing my eyes have been burning up with attention, so it's not like I'm ignoring it, and it only does it on a very rare occasion. Could this have been related to the ECM not working right due to the AFM? Or is this a normal behavior, or a sign of something else? I let it idle for a long time in the driveway and took this picture.
Also, the Temp Hand is higher when the engine is off (after getting up to running temp, not cold, of course) but then comes back down to normal after a few seconds of being started back up.
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Jeffdylanproctor
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Regarding the coolant/ temp question:
Obviously there could be head gasket issues or what not, but I came across a conversation online where people had a problem with the temp hand in their trucks going up a little while on inclines for a while, and it is worth noting that my 2011 Escalde is...well...squatted at the moment. Yes, it has the embarassing "squat" going on, which I will probably take off, but for the time being I wanted to sort out the engine problems first.
Reading about inclines made me wonder if its a little pocket of air trapped in there that won't come out easily because of the...well...because of the squat. lol. It sounds so ridiculous I'm ashamed to even post this thought online.
Obviously there could be head gasket issues or what not, but I came across a conversation online where people had a problem with the temp hand in their trucks going up a little while on inclines for a while, and it is worth noting that my 2011 Escalde is...well...squatted at the moment. Yes, it has the embarassing "squat" going on, which I will probably take off, but for the time being I wanted to sort out the engine problems first.
Reading about inclines made me wonder if its a little pocket of air trapped in there that won't come out easily because of the...well...because of the squat. lol. It sounds so ridiculous I'm ashamed to even post this thought online.
Well that's interesting. I've never bothered playing with the dongle you plug into the OBD2. (Except for diagnostic purposes like in this situation the original posters dealing with)
I have heard of a few of them draining the battery left in over the weekend.
Temperature creeping up a little right after turning off.... Actually that's normal.
Very slight surging occurring with the dongle plugged in..... Could be related to whatever camshaft was used.
The question is, is it worth tearing into the engine to know what you're dealing with? For me, it would be. I would hate having to guess as to the engine configuration.
However, with some live data I assume a black bear tune can be created based on the live data.
No more codes surfaced?
Very slight surging occurring with the dongle plugged in..... Could be related to whatever camshaft was used.
The question is, is it worth tearing into the engine to know what you're dealing with? For me, it would be. I would hate having to guess as to the engine configuration.
However, with some live data I assume a black bear tune can be created based on the live data.
No more codes surfaced?
Jeffdylanproctor
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Alright, so I drove the truck quite a lot today, and it seems to behave pretty well with the AFM disabled plugged in.
We popped a new thermostat in it, and I drove it over an hour and not a single blip happened on the needle (plus the rubber gasket on the old thermostat didn't look great).
My only concern now, is that I did see the Oil Pressure dip to around 18 when idling a long time hot.
We are going on our honeymoon this week, but when I get back I might go ahead and put a new Oil Pump in it and see about having the ECM tuned.
I think the main problem may have been they deleted the AFM without addressing the ECM, or the lady didn't send me the dongle, if that's what they were using.
I really appreciate all the advice that's been in here, and I actually look forward to tinkering with this engine more, as now that I've broke the ice on GMT900 trucks I'm sure I'm gonna work in several of them
We popped a new thermostat in it, and I drove it over an hour and not a single blip happened on the needle (plus the rubber gasket on the old thermostat didn't look great).
My only concern now, is that I did see the Oil Pressure dip to around 18 when idling a long time hot.
We are going on our honeymoon this week, but when I get back I might go ahead and put a new Oil Pump in it and see about having the ECM tuned.
I think the main problem may have been they deleted the AFM without addressing the ECM, or the lady didn't send me the dongle, if that's what they were using.
I really appreciate all the advice that's been in here, and I actually look forward to tinkering with this engine more, as now that I've broke the ice on GMT900 trucks I'm sure I'm gonna work in several of them
Sounds good
Melling 10296 with the +10 spring. And probably worth pulling the pan to make sure that relief valve was removed and plugged.
Very possible that 18 PSI in gear at a hot idle is more related to somewhat worn out cam bearings. Not critical by any means, but I like to see at least in the low 20s. (GM would say it's fine) The 10296 pump should help with that. For the time being, you might try a 10w40 full synthetic.
Melling 10296 with the +10 spring. And probably worth pulling the pan to make sure that relief valve was removed and plugged.
Very possible that 18 PSI in gear at a hot idle is more related to somewhat worn out cam bearings. Not critical by any means, but I like to see at least in the low 20s. (GM would say it's fine) The 10296 pump should help with that. For the time being, you might try a 10w40 full synthetic.
