Ideas? Help with a DOD/ AFM Deleted 2011 Escalade 6.2
- Thread starter Jeffdylanproctor
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A few links for you. I've used both of these products on the last three AFM deletes.
Michigan Motorsports Oil Pan Oil pressure relief valve plug
https://a.co/d/jbcXce3
2 bolt girdle for oil pickup tube to pump
Z Whip Oil Pump https://a.co/d/dp6mYYH
Michigan Motorsports Oil Pan Oil pressure relief valve plug
https://a.co/d/jbcXce3
2 bolt girdle for oil pickup tube to pump
Z Whip Oil Pump https://a.co/d/dp6mYYH
Jeffdylanproctor
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Is the Melling kit a good one for a Timing Chain and Tensioner?
I may go ahead and order one, but was looking to find the best deal on a quality one.
I may go ahead and order one, but was looking to find the best deal on a quality one.
Melling offers several kits. I would say see what you have once you get the cover off before deciding. (It may have a new timing set, after all)
For the VVT actuator that screws into the end of the cam and the solenoid that mounts in the cover, I would only use genuine GM/AC Delco. Same for the camshaft position sensor that mounts in the timing cover. Those three items are probably the most critical for the VVT, and I would go ahead and order those and plan on replacing them regardless.
For the VVT actuator that screws into the end of the cam and the solenoid that mounts in the cover, I would only use genuine GM/AC Delco. Same for the camshaft position sensor that mounts in the timing cover. Those three items are probably the most critical for the VVT, and I would go ahead and order those and plan on replacing them regardless.
Jeffdylanproctor
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Yeah, I have been keeping track of part numbers, and I definately use Rockauto both for ordering parts and for finding part numbers, lol.
Right now I am waiting on parts to come in, though I may pop the water pump off when I get home. I would have last night except the radiator in it doesn't have a petcock on the bottom, which would be the second radiator on these i've seen that doesn't. It has the slot and everything but the hole is solid. I guess they are cheap aftermarket ones or something. Anyways, I made a tube that I can run in the radiator and other coolant lines to try to pump out the coolant without making such a mess all over the place.
Right now I am waiting on parts to come in, though I may pop the water pump off when I get home. I would have last night except the radiator in it doesn't have a petcock on the bottom, which would be the second radiator on these i've seen that doesn't. It has the slot and everything but the hole is solid. I guess they are cheap aftermarket ones or something. Anyways, I made a tube that I can run in the radiator and other coolant lines to try to pump out the coolant without making such a mess all over the place.
donjetman
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yep, ya use the lower rad hose for a drain.
Jeffdylanproctor
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Haha that's crazy for oem, as they modifed the mold, but not all the way. Lol wow.
Make a mental note that if you pull the heads off, mark them so they go back on the same side of the engine. If you get them switched, you'll find the steam vents in the front of the heads are not drilled. (At which point you'll either need to switch the heads to the correct side to have the steam vents in the front, or tap out the steel plug in the blocked off steam vents and convert it to a 4-port steam vent. There's many kits available online to do so.)
Jeffdylanproctor
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ok, I plan on taking the front cover off tomorrow and actually getting a look at everything, as I should have some parts in by then.
However, I learned a few things tonight.
First, I paid a lot of attention to oil pressure. The sluggish problem doesn't really seem to happen when the engine is first started up cold. On startup, oil pressure driving is in the 40s, and at idle it is around 30-32. Once it gets warm, and it gets warm quite fast, with needle coming all the way up in just a few minutes, oil pressure drops quite a bit. Driving around 2,000 rpms oil pressure is in the 30s, and at idle its around 22.
The surging/sluggish/being weak problem tends to be quite pronounced after the truck is warm and the engine is below 2,000 rpms. In fact, once its warm, it feels terrible at low rpms, all the time. In the past I had only noticed it when cruising, because that was the only time the truck was in that RPM range.
This makes me think the problem really is with the VVT system, especially the VVT Solenoid, as its almost as if the system works poorlywhen oil pressure drops. Does this make sense? It might be one of those things where I've paid attention to it for so long that I've cooked my brain and lost the ability to see clearly on the matter. It does get warm rather quickly, and there's only a narrow window to study it cold.
Also, the scanner came in and found a few codes that didn't show up at all on my other OBDII reader. I more or less expected the cylinder deactivation circuits, but was surprised to see the torque converter lockup codes. It presented the P0011 code as anticipated.
Is there something else I should be learning from this scan tool? I look forward to opening the engine and seeing the condition of the timing chain and everything.
However, I learned a few things tonight.
First, I paid a lot of attention to oil pressure. The sluggish problem doesn't really seem to happen when the engine is first started up cold. On startup, oil pressure driving is in the 40s, and at idle it is around 30-32. Once it gets warm, and it gets warm quite fast, with needle coming all the way up in just a few minutes, oil pressure drops quite a bit. Driving around 2,000 rpms oil pressure is in the 30s, and at idle its around 22.
The surging/sluggish/being weak problem tends to be quite pronounced after the truck is warm and the engine is below 2,000 rpms. In fact, once its warm, it feels terrible at low rpms, all the time. In the past I had only noticed it when cruising, because that was the only time the truck was in that RPM range.
This makes me think the problem really is with the VVT system, especially the VVT Solenoid, as its almost as if the system works poorlywhen oil pressure drops. Does this make sense? It might be one of those things where I've paid attention to it for so long that I've cooked my brain and lost the ability to see clearly on the matter. It does get warm rather quickly, and there's only a narrow window to study it cold.
Also, the scanner came in and found a few codes that didn't show up at all on my other OBDII reader. I more or less expected the cylinder deactivation circuits, but was surprised to see the torque converter lockup codes. It presented the P0011 code as anticipated.
Is there something else I should be learning from this scan tool? I look forward to opening the engine and seeing the condition of the timing chain and everything.
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Well that sure looks like they did not deactivate the AFM system in the ECM. That alone is going to cause all sorts of drivability issues.
22 PSI fully warmed up at an idle is not a problem, and somewhere in the 30s cruising on the highway is very typical.
And yes, they do warm up quickly.
Shine a light under the front of your intake manifold.... Is the valley cover plate smooth aluminum? Or does it have raised channels in it?
Smooth:
Or a VLOM plate with channels, which is part of the AFM system
22 PSI fully warmed up at an idle is not a problem, and somewhere in the 30s cruising on the highway is very typical.
And yes, they do warm up quickly.
Shine a light under the front of your intake manifold.... Is the valley cover plate smooth aluminum? Or does it have raised channels in it?
Smooth:
Or a VLOM plate with channels, which is part of the AFM system
I'm pondering your codes. Assuming you purchased this at a dealer?
It's quite possible the AFM delete was completed and the prior owner had a disabler plugged into the OBD2 port. Would not be unusual for someone at the dealer not knowing why it's there, and unplugging it..... Which reactivates the AFM in your computer. This would give you all sorts of drivability issues as well as codes.
You have a couple options here.
1. The AFM disablers that plug into the OBD2 port and you leave them there are fairly inexpensive. Some are known to drain the battery over a weekend.
2. You can send your ECM in to get the AFM turned off. That's probably running around $100 to $150. Most of the places have a fairly quick turnaround, should have it back in less than a week.
3. My personal favorite is the diablosport predator 2. Between 3 and $400 now I think. Very easy to use, removes AFM from your ECM. Allows you to tighten up transmission shifting for prolonged life. Comes with a couple prepared tunes, such as an 87 octane fuel economy tune, higher performance tunes that include things like +25 HP. It allows you to program in different tire sizes.
It's quite possible the AFM delete was completed and the prior owner had a disabler plugged into the OBD2 port. Would not be unusual for someone at the dealer not knowing why it's there, and unplugging it..... Which reactivates the AFM in your computer. This would give you all sorts of drivability issues as well as codes.
You have a couple options here.
1. The AFM disablers that plug into the OBD2 port and you leave them there are fairly inexpensive. Some are known to drain the battery over a weekend.
2. You can send your ECM in to get the AFM turned off. That's probably running around $100 to $150. Most of the places have a fairly quick turnaround, should have it back in less than a week.
3. My personal favorite is the diablosport predator 2. Between 3 and $400 now I think. Very easy to use, removes AFM from your ECM. Allows you to tighten up transmission shifting for prolonged life. Comes with a couple prepared tunes, such as an 87 octane fuel economy tune, higher performance tunes that include things like +25 HP. It allows you to program in different tire sizes.
The AFM disablers are fairly inexpensive. If you haven't torn into the motor yet, I would pick one up and plug it in after clearing all codes.... And see what it does.
I would grab one off Amazon, use it as a test. If it solves your issues, simply return it within the return window..... And get yourself a diablosport predator. And do it the right way.
And if you have turned into the motor already, nothing wrong with that. Making sure it's done right. And then get the device of your choice or send the ECM and get the AFM turned off
I would grab one off Amazon, use it as a test. If it solves your issues, simply return it within the return window..... And get yourself a diablosport predator. And do it the right way.
And if you have turned into the motor already, nothing wrong with that. Making sure it's done right. And then get the device of your choice or send the ECM and get the AFM turned off
I had to go back and reread your original post. Realized you did mention it has a smooth valley cover.
There's no question it needs the AFM turned off in the ECM, and most likely whoever traded it in either removed the disabler from the OBD2 port, or the selling dealer did. (Or somebody else car shopping)
It should run just fine with oil pressure at a hot idle on the low 20s, but I definitely would want to pull the pan and verify the pressure relief valve is plugged, and I would pull the front cover to put a visual on everything, making sure it has a new oil pump.... And a correct one.
Realistically you can't count on the trouble codes as being definitive to anything, until the AFM is actually disabled. Never tried to run one without disabling it after an AFM delete, but what you described sure sounds like what one would expect. Including the driveability issues at light throttle below 2000 RPM when the ECM would be attempting to engage the AFM.
When you are all done, you will want to get one of those OBD2 port covers that are printed on front that says no flash. Because if a dealer plugs in to update the ECM, it will overwrite the AFM delete and you will have to turn it off again. Which means it's also possible the selling dealer had a GM dealer plug into it for any updates.....
There's no question it needs the AFM turned off in the ECM, and most likely whoever traded it in either removed the disabler from the OBD2 port, or the selling dealer did. (Or somebody else car shopping)
It should run just fine with oil pressure at a hot idle on the low 20s, but I definitely would want to pull the pan and verify the pressure relief valve is plugged, and I would pull the front cover to put a visual on everything, making sure it has a new oil pump.... And a correct one.
Realistically you can't count on the trouble codes as being definitive to anything, until the AFM is actually disabled. Never tried to run one without disabling it after an AFM delete, but what you described sure sounds like what one would expect. Including the driveability issues at light throttle below 2000 RPM when the ECM would be attempting to engage the AFM.
When you are all done, you will want to get one of those OBD2 port covers that are printed on front that says no flash. Because if a dealer plugs in to update the ECM, it will overwrite the AFM delete and you will have to turn it off again. Which means it's also possible the selling dealer had a GM dealer plug into it for any updates.....
Jeffdylanproctor
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I bought it from a person, not a dealer, and yes it has the smooth valley cover. If they didn't deactivate the AFM in the ECM, how is the best way to go about that?
