How often do you go WOT aka "Italian tune up"?

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Sean Michael

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I was discussing this with a friend recently who was saying these motors, especially the 6.2L, need to be run hard from time-to-time to keep them happy. He's put some high mileage on his trucks and attributes some of that longevity to doing occasional WOT pulls to "clear everything out". He's talking about doing it after the vehicle is properly warmed up of course, and not necessarily flooring it from a standstill and thus shocking the drivetrain, more like a couple of rolling WOT pulls here and there being good for the motor.

I don't need too much of an excuse to enjoy a pull here and there regardless, but I was curious if other owners do the occasional "Italian tune up" and if you think running them hard occasionally has benefits over exclusively babying them. I can imagine some slow drivers who tend to just cruise around might rarely go much over 3,000 RPM and never let their motor fully breath. Any opinions on the topic?
 

Doubeleive

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multiple times every time I get behind the wheel
vehicle runs great, but extreme use requires a more severe maintenance schedule.
I also inspect it often and am therefore pretty sure when I do get on it that it's not going to pop a hose or break a belt or do something dramatic.
I should also note doing such a thing, tends to cause failures, primarily the transmission & rear end. until they are upgraded to absorb the abuse.
 

RoadTrip

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I do "Italian Tune Ups" at least once a month on all of my vehicles. It is a great way to know if something feels "off", such as a misfire. However, I do go light on the throttle most days since I'm trying to increase the longevity of everything. I do about 50% highway driving while running exclusively E85 for low carbon deposit and higher timing advance benefits.

The "clear everything out" part is a reference to carbon build up inside the combustion chamber. Hot, high-demand loads will increase the cylinder tempature and burn some of it out. An example of that would be towing a heavy load, but just a few-second WOT pull will not be enough to do much for the majority of the carbon in the cylinders. The truck's control systems will keep the timing advanced under more conditions than older engines where the ignition only advanced more at higher RPM.

Most high grade fuels now have additives to help keep the carbon deposits to a minimum. There are also some additives you can buy to add to your fuel if you are not convinced the carbon is gone.

Still, you should go and enjoy some WFO runs!
 

Joseph Garcia

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That was a technique that was popular during the carburetor days, but I don't know if it does the same with direct injection.

As @Doubeleive stated, for most of us, a periodic WOT is what makes these trucks fun and gives us a pump of adrenalin, some more often than others. For me, if this technique works the same on direct injection motors, then I must have one of the cleanest motors out there.
 

Doubeleive

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That was a technique that was popular during the carburetor days, but I don't know if it does the same with direct injection.

As @Doubeleive stated, for most of us, a periodic WOT is what makes these trucks fun and gives us a pump of adrenalin, some more often than others. For me, if this technique works the same on direct injection motors, then I must have one of the cleanest motors out there.
I know mine is pretty clean lol, the wife's 16 needed a full service but we bought it with about 90k on it and the previous owner probably never pushed the pedal much.
the direct injection motors are more prone to buildup
 

the 18th letter

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I usually do a couple stretches of accelerated driving before each oil change. A couple time everyday is wild lol I actually have to drive someplace where it’s possible to open it up.
 

jgraves

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In 1.5 years of ownership, I don't thing mine has ever seen full throttle. The 6.2 has enough power that I never feel the need to use all of it. The Yukon has spent several days (900mi each) pulling an enclosed trailer and sucking back the gas but I can't say I've ever hit the throttle stop or much above 4k rpm.

Jeff
 

Marky Dissod

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There's a road speed under which, if you stomp it suddenly, it'll make a big to-do out of a multiple downshift,
followed by jumping over a couple thousand RpM.

The trick to an 'italian tune up' is to quickly roll into the throttle without stomping it from a low speed,
so that you don't unnecessarily shock anything with a multiple downshift.
(4L60E can do a 4Dn1 , think 6L80 / 8L90 / 10L80 multidownshift by going from a gear through neutral to a gear,
like 7-N-3 or 10-N-5.)
Then you gotta hold your foot down til you're threatening 85-90MpH.
The WOT pull has to be long enough to give the cylinder a good fuel soaking.
As enjoyable as it damn well should be, it's not about the fun!

1. Plan when and where to do this without concerns. I've a few favorite spots where, despite the illegality,
no one / nothing is in ANY danger, and after a quick reconnoiter of the spot, I know I won't get caught either.
2. Run a strong dose of Chevron with Techron Fuel System Cleaner, Marvel Mystery Oil, BG44K
or another very highly recommended fuel treatment.
(Many are benign but ineffectual, go read Bobistheoilguy for a week and then make your decision.)
Bonus points if you can do this using ethanol, which is a better fuel system cleaner than petrol.
3. It's not quite a drag race, don't worry about reaction time or 'hooking hard',
unless looking for the drivetrain's weak spots.
4. Once you hit 85-90MpH, don't stomp the brakes, but get back down to legal speeds quickly and safely.
Bonus points if you DON't have to stop! The engine will appreciate avoiding DFCO immediately after a WOT run.
There's a reason why Texas vehicles' engines tend to do better than NYC engines.
 
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Sean Michael

Sean Michael

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multiple times every time I get behind the wheel
vehicle runs great, but extreme use requires a more severe maintenance schedule.
I also inspect it often and am therefore pretty sure when I do get on it that it's not going to pop a hose or break a belt or do something dramatic.
I should also note doing such a thing, tends to cause failures, primarily the transmission & rear end. until they are upgraded to absorb the abuse.
Do the stock transmission and rear end need upgraded to handle reasonable WOT use from an unmodified engine making stock power, or is that come more into play once people start tuning and adding power?

I understand that constantly wailing on any vehicle is going to wear things out faster, but I'm with @PG01, I'm going to enjoy it and fix it if it breaks.
There's a road speed under which, if you stomp it suddenly, it'll make a big to-do out of a multiple downshift,
followed by jumping over a couple thousand RpM.

The trick to an 'italian tune up' is to quickly roll into the throttle without stomping it from a low speed,
so that you don't unnecessarily shock anything with a multiple downshift.
(4L60E can do a 4Dn1 , think 6L80 / 8L90 / 10L80 multidownshift by going from a gear through neutral to a gear,
like 7-N-3 or 10-N-5.)
Then you gotta hold your foot down til you're threatening 85-90MpH.
The WOT pull has to be long enough to give the cylinder a good fuel soaking.
As enjoyable as it damn well should be, it's not about the fun!

1. Plan when and where to do this without concerns. I've a few favorite spots where, despite the illegality,
no one / nothing is in ANY danger, and after a quick reconnoiter of the spot, I know I won't get caught either.
2. Run a strong dose of Chevron with Techron Fuel System Cleaner, Marvel Mystery Oil, BG44K
or another very highly recommended fuel treatment.
(Many are benign but ineffectual, go read Bobistheoilguy for a week and then make your decision.)
Bonus points if you can do this using ethanol, which is a better fuel system cleaner than petrol.
3. It's not quite a drag race, don't worry about reaction time or 'hooking hard',
unless looking for the drivetrain's weak spots.
4. Once you hit 85-90MpH, don't stomp the brakes, but get back down to legal speeds quickly and safely.
Bonus points if you DON't have to stop! The engine will appreciate avoiding DFCO immediately after a WOT run.
There's a reason why Texas vehicles' engines tend to do better than NYC engines.
Good tips, and I am in Texas with plenty of long on-ramps and open highways where I can give it the beans in a relatively safe and legal manner. There's a county road near me that has a particularly long onramp with an uphill grade that opens onto a 75mph highway that everyone seems to do 80 on anyways, so I'm always stoked when I get to use it with nobody in front of me. Being an uphill grade makes the engine work harder and keeps me from reaching unethical speeds by the time I merge.

What is DFCO?
 

Doubeleive

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Do the stock transmission and rear end need upgraded to handle reasonable WOT use from an unmodified engine making stock power, or is that come more into play once people start tuning and adding power?

I understand that constantly wailing on any vehicle is going to wear things out faster, but I'm with @PG01, I'm going to enjoy it and fix it if it breaks.

Good tips, and I am in Texas with plenty of long on-ramps and open highways where I can give it the beans in a relatively safe and legal manner. There's a county road near me that has a particularly long onramp with an uphill grade that opens onto a 75mph highway that everyone seems to do 80 on anyways, so I'm always stoked when I get to use it with nobody in front of me. Being an uphill grade makes the engine work harder and keeps me from reaching unethical speeds by the time I merge.

What is DFCO?
Transmission is the weak spot, that's really all I can tell you. Most of the ones I broke were in the 1-2 shift, that might tell you a bit more
 

Marky Dissod

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What is DFCO?
Long story as short as possible:
Deceleration Fuel Cut Off

A bit longer:
Usually (when the TPS% is more than 0.0%) the engine turns the transmission which turns the R&P, which turns the tires, which push on the road.
Whenever the TPS% is 0.0% (for argument's sake, let's oversimplify), the road pushes the tires, which turns the R&P, which turns the trans which turns the engine.
Why use fuel to turn the engine, when the road is already turning the engine? (This assumes the TCC is LOCKED.)
No fueling, no combustion, engine slowly cools off though, so the ecm cannot allow the engine to go under 185F / 85C.

GM's Gen5 V8 can do DFCO one better; cylinders taking a break are not working sucking air past a closed throttle.

DFCO is NOT engine braking - which is technically powertrain braking, because downshifts are integral to the braking effect.
The higher the gear, the more it's DFCO, not powertrain braking.

(Decel Enleanment, when DFCO is NOT in effect even though the vehicle is decelerating, went out of fashion around the same time as Lean Cruise did.)
 

adventurenali92

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Usually, every on ramp to major interstates if no one is ahead of you, I'll hammer it up to about 85-90 a few times a month. Can't hurt anything....
I am the same way…. Get rolling and then WOT to get close to freeway speed by the time I’m merging in….

Mainly because California flatlanders are bat shit crazy drivers when it comes to freeways, and if you’re not using the long onramps like you’re coming out of a pit stop in a nascar race, you’ll never make it onto the freeway…. Lol. :Big Laugh:
 

fozzi58

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WTF - Italian Tune up? I got your tune up......RIGHT HERE!

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On a serious note...The Direct Injection engines can't really get cleaned out that way (WOT pull) because there is no PORT injection and that's the problem. The back side of the valves will always have carbon buildup because there is no fuel flowing over them. That's why in DI engines, even for longevity you should have an oil catch can.

There is a maintenance procedure from GM to clean the valves. There's a spray foam and a few hours of wait time and it will clean out your engine. A few mechanics say to run through the procedure a few times.



lol. Wot pulls in a Tahoe…….
They are fun. Especially when I'm next to an unsuspecting Snack Pack on the parkway. I wish I had a picture of that guy's face when he got walked by a suburban lmao

lol, I literally beat the holly hell out of mine by comparison to you guys....

Same. I think the torque converter is the only thing that has kept my trans from un-aliving itself..

Do the stock transmission and rear end need upgraded to handle reasonable WOT use from an unmodified engine making stock power, or is that come more into play once people start tuning and adding power?

The torque converters seem to be a problem point for the 6 and 8 speed transmissions. I believe you have a 10 speed so problems seem to be less common in that trans. I don't have any input on the new IRS on the newer models. I have the solid axle from the K2XX series and the G80 rear-end earned the name "G-bomb" for a reason.

I would think reasonable WOTs aren't an issue with the stock drivetrain. If you start driving it like Tony, Dou, or myself, you are probably in for upgrades in the future.
 

SavageDad

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lol, I literally beat the holly hell out of mine by comparison to you guys....

That's what I'm thinking here, mine sees WOT at least once a day bare minimum and a couple times on the weekend there's a section of washboard on my route that will beat the tar out of you at 20mph but gets darn near buttery smooth at 60 or so it's a truck, drive it like a truck.
 

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