Heater Hose Blew Out

[Joseph Garcia]

I was unable to post this photo of the connector that I had to cut out in my previous post as an edit, so I'm posting it here in a new post.

 

[Rocket Man]

Once the hoses are installed, what are your recommendations for preferred methods for refilling with coolant and purging of trapped air? Any concerns that I need to be aware of that are unique to these trucks?

Use Dexcool mixed 50/50 with distilled water.
From the service manual: (you don’t need to pay attention to the use of special tools or repositioning the clamp, they just mean to install it)


Filling Procedure

Notice: The procedure below must be followed. Improper coolant level could result in a low or high coolant level condition, causing engine damage.

1. Install the lower radiator hose to the radiator.
2. Using the J 38185 , reposition the lower radiator hose clamp.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice .

1. If the left and right engine block coolant drain plugs were removed, perform the following:

1. Apply pipe sealer to the drain plugs.
2. Install the drain plugs.

Tighten the drain plugs to 60 N.m (44 lb ft).

1. Install the engine block coolant heater, if equipped. Refer to Coolant Heater Replacement (LH6, LY2, LMG, LY5, and LY6) (See: Engine\Engine Block Heater\Service and Repair\Coolant Heater Replacement (LH6, LY2, LMG, LY5, and LY6))Coolant Heater Replacement (L76, L92) () .
2. Lower the vehicle.

Important: Use a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL antifreeze and clean, drinkable water.

1. Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture. Refer to Approximate Fluid Capacities .
2. Install the coolant pressure cap.
3. Start the engine.
4. Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Engine should reach an operating temperature of 90°C (194°F) and the upper radiator hose should be HOT.
5. Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes.
6. Shut the engine OFF.
7. Allow the engine to cool.
8. Top off the coolant as necessary.
9. Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant using the J 26568 .
10. Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Use Dexcool mixed 50/50 with distilled water.
From the service manual: (you don’t need to pay attention to the use of special tools or repositioning the clamp, they just mean to install it)


Filling Procedure

Notice: The procedure below must be followed. Improper coolant level could result in a low or high coolant level condition, causing engine damage.

1. Install the lower radiator hose to the radiator.
2. Using the J 38185 , reposition the lower radiator hose clamp.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice .

1. If the left and right engine block coolant drain plugs were removed, perform the following:

1. Apply pipe sealer to the drain plugs.
2. Install the drain plugs.

Tighten the drain plugs to 60 N.m (44 lb ft).

1. Install the engine block coolant heater, if equipped. Refer to Coolant Heater Replacement (LH6, LY2, LMG, LY5, and LY6) (See: Engine\Engine Block Heater\Service and Repair\Coolant Heater Replacement (LH6, LY2, LMG, LY5, and LY6))Coolant Heater Replacement (L76, L92) () .
2. Lower the vehicle.

Important: Use a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL antifreeze and clean, drinkable water.

1. Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture. Refer to Approximate Fluid Capacities .
2. Install the coolant pressure cap.
3. Start the engine.
4. Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Engine should reach an operating temperature of 90°C (194°F) and the upper radiator hose should be HOT.
5. Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes.
6. Shut the engine OFF.
7. Allow the engine to cool.
8. Top off the coolant as necessary.
9. Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant using the J 26568 .
10. Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.

Super! Thank you.

 

[Rocket Man]

Super! Thank you.

You’re welcome. I just did mine in my 08 Silverado after a cam swap and the first time I started it it ran hot until I shut it down and let it cool, then when I came back and checked the coolant level was down by a lot because it had burped. I refilled it to the cold line and all is well.

 

[kbuskill]

In the real world having the nose of the truck up in the air helps to purge the air from the system.

The top of my driveway is quite steep, like 10% grade, and it works quite well if you back the truck in. Alternatively you could back down into a ditch ( just don't get stuck) or put the front wheels on ramps.

 

[camarolvr11]

The easiest way to do deal with that is to snap those small flat tabs off of each side and then you can either pull the connectors off or or keep snapping some more of the plastic part off until you can get them off, I would replace both hoses and "T"'s with new oem ones seeing those lasted over 10 years. the problem is common due to age and from heat/cold.

View attachment 249381

Does anyone know THE OEM part numbers for those quick connects at the heater core? I couldn't find them on gmpartsdirect.com

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[Doubeleive]

Does anyone know THE OEM part numbers for those quick connects at the heater core? I couldn't find them on gmpartsdirect.com

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These are the correct hoses and "T"s

 

[camarolvr11]

These are the correct hoses and "T"s

View attachment 249498

Thanks for the reply. So does the denali only have the t-fittings? Or does it also use the straight connector too?

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[Doubeleive]

Thanks for the reply. So does the denali only have the t-fittings? Or does it also use the straight connector too?

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all the suv have the T only the silverado's/sierra's use a straight connector, unless it's a older 2 door or something pre 00

 

[new2yukon]

So why not use the dorman replacement T?

Hmmmm....I replaced my oem about 4yrs ago with dorman. So far no issues....

Just wondering.

 

[Rocket Man]

So why not use the dorman replacement T?

Hmmmm....I replaced my oem about 4yrs ago with dorman. So far no issues....

Just wondering.

The Dorman ones seem to fail in a few years according to forum members who have used them. They’re probably made with an inferior plastic. The OEM ones tend to last 10 years or more.

 

[denalianyone]

Hi Folks,

I just had a heater hose blow out on my 07 Yukon XL Denali. As the photo shows, it appears to have literally 'torn' itself off, right at the back side of the crimped coupling on the end of the hose, as it looks like there is still hose within the crimped coupling.

Question for you.... Do I need a special tool to get the crimped connector off of the plastic nipple of the coolant distribution block? If so, where is the best place to buy the tool? Part number?

Does it also make sense to change out both heater hoses, along with both radiator hoses? Any other coolant-containing hoses that should be changed out, as well?

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks in advance.

View attachment 249376

View attachment 249378

Just use a Dremel tool to cut the oem clamp bracket and there is enough slack to use the existing hose. Then buy a small set screw hose clamp from your local hardware store. Tighten it real tight and walla. Same thing happen to me and that was the fix. Don’t go out and buy another cheap plastic t fitting


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[Doubeleive]

if you wanted to delete the rear heat for some reason yuo could use the striaght

Just use a Dremel tool to cut the oem clamp bracket and there is enough slack to use the existing hose. Then buy a small set screw hose clamp from your local hardware store. Tighten it real tight and walla. Same thing happen to me and that was the fix. Don’t go out and buy another cheap plastic t fitting


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Ya that's just setting yourself up for another failure down the road a bit, once the plastic is deteriorated enough to just break off on it's own then it's time to replace the whole shebang and it would be just someones luck to be not really paying attention and have the engine overheat and cause other much more severe problems. bad advice.
i mean if you are in a pinch you gotta do what ya gotta do but that's a short term fix

 

[Doubeleive]

So why not use the dorman replacement T?

Hmmmm....I replaced my oem about 4yrs ago with dorman. So far no issues....

Just wondering.

if anyone decides to go with the Dorman be sure it is the one with the part number ending with "CD" which is "Changed Design" which supposedly has some kind of improvement made versus the original dorman.

 

[denalianyone]

if you wanted to delete the rear heat for some reason yuo could use the striaght

Ya that's just setting yourself up for another failure down the road a bit, once the plastic is deteriorated enough to just break off on it's own then it's time to replace the whole shebang and it would be just someones luck to be not really paying attention and have the engine overheat and cause other much more severe problems. bad advice.
i mean if you are in a pinch you gotta do what ya gotta do but that's a short term fix

What does the plastic breaking off have to do with using the existing hose minus the crappy compression clamp from GM? Remove the broke plastic from the hose. I had no issues for a couple years now since using the hose with a screw clamp. The other parts of t-fitting is fine.


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[Doubeleive]

What does the plastic breaking off have to do with using the existing hose minus the crappy compression clamp from GM? Remove the broke plastic from the hose. I had no issues for a couple years now since using the hose with a screw clamp. The other parts of t-fitting is fine.


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if yours has lasted a couple more years great, it's just a matter of time, those "T"s can break off anywhere at anytime once the plastic has become brittle and the T on the rubber hose splitting from off the water pump to the reservoir breaks also. I learned my lesson already. when you have been driving these for 20+ years you see some patterns those "T"'s haven't changed design. in time the reservoir will crack, the radiator will crack, the water pump will leak. the upper and lower radiator hoses seem to last though. The hoses, T's, reservoir, radiator are maintenance items, the water pump is also but generally it doesn't just blow out all the coolant and leave you stranded somewhere usually they develop a leak or a slow dribble giving you time to get it replaced.

 

[91RS]

You can replace them with aluminum Ts for $70, 12" of 3/4" hose, 12" of 1/2" hose and 10 hose clamps and it'll never be a problem again.

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-68#post-1451010


https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-68#post-1451011

Good grief look at all those hose clamps to possibly leak. That does not look like a good solution to just getting new OEM ones that’ll likely last another 10+ years.

 

[89Suburban]

Good grief look at all those hose clamps to possibly leak. That does not look like a good solution to just getting new OEM ones that’ll likely last another 10+ years.

They wont leak. That's a bullet proof setup compared to that plastic shit.


Great thread and info here by the way guys good job.

 

[denalianyone]

The hose(s) that sit above the splash pan have a tendency to start leaking as well. I used the same method for the heater hose w/ screw clamps as oppose to buying a new hose with the crappy clamps gm sell. But to each’s own, my 08 Lade only has 106k miles and I don’t plan on having it pass 160k.


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[denalianyone]

if yours has lasted a couple more years great, it's just a matter of time, those "T"s can break off anywhere at anytime once the plastic has become brittle and the T on the rubber hose splitting from off the water pump to the reservoir breaks also. I learned my lesson already. when you have been driving these for 20+ years you see some patterns those "T"'s haven't changed design. in time the reservoir will crack, the radiator will crack, the water pump will leak. the upper and lower radiator hoses seem to last though. The hoses, T's, reservoir, radiator are maintenance items, the water pump is also but generally it doesn't just blow out all the coolant and leave you stranded somewhere usually they develop a leak or a slow dribble giving you time to get it replaced.

Well if the rest of the T breaks off then I will switch to the billet style over the OEM plastic. As u stated...my option is a quick fix that can be done as you wait on replacement items. [emoji41]


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