Heater Hose Blew Out

[Joseph Garcia]

Hi Folks,

I just had a heater hose blow out on my 07 Yukon XL Denali. As the photo shows, it appears to have literally 'torn' itself off, right at the back side of the crimped coupling on the end of the hose, as it looks like there is still hose within the crimped coupling.

Question for you.... Do I need a special tool to get the crimped connector off of the plastic nipple of the coolant distribution block? If so, where is the best place to buy the tool? Part number?

Does it also make sense to change out both heater hoses, along with both radiator hoses? Any other coolant-containing hoses that should be changed out, as well?

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks in advance.

 

[OR VietVet]

I would replace all the rubber hoses at the same time and I think the plastic connector has two places where you reach in at the two windows and squeeze the clips to release from the spout. I am not sure but your second pic seems to show that window on the left side of the connector and it looks like the clip is shown. If there is another window on the opposite side that would maybe prove my point.

 

[Doubeleive]

The easiest way to do deal with that is to snap those small flat tabs off of each side and then you can either pull the connectors off or or keep snapping some more of the plastic part off until you can get them off, I would replace both hoses and "T"'s with new oem ones seeing those lasted over 10 years. the problem is common due to age and from heat/cold.

 

[gooffeyguy]

It doesn't appear that the "T" is what broke, but the quick connect fitting attached to the end of the hose.

You can replace the entire hose, or if there is enough length left to it, they make replacement quick connect hose ends that go into the end of the hose and secured with a hose clamp. This would be the cheapest/quickest way.

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[Doubeleive]

It doesn't appear that the "T" is what broke, but the quick connect fitting attached to the end of the hose.

You can replace the entire hose, or if there is enough length left to it, they make replacement quick connect hose ends that go into the end of the hose and secured with a hose clamp. This would be the cheapest/quickest way.

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murphy's law says the other side will break soon, those things tend to break at the most inopportune time also, nothing like heading out on a road trip on a sunday with a monday holiday and having that bastard break off in timbuck2 land leaving you with trying to macgyver a fix just to make it down the road.

 

[iamdub]

You can replace them with aluminum Ts for $70, 12" of 3/4" hose, 12" of 1/2" hose and 10 hose clamps and it'll never be a problem again.

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-68#post-1451010


https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-68#post-1451011

 

[OR VietVet]

Like these.

https://www.gruvenparts.com/billet-gm-heater-core-coolant-tees/

 

[iamdub]

Like these.

https://www.gruvenparts.com/billet-gm-heater-core-coolant-tees/

Or these: https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/best-sellers/products/traditional-hose-tee

They don't come with the hoses or clamps, though.

 

[Fless]

Considering the age of the truck and assuming they're original, I would suggest replacing the T-connectors for the rear heat, too, since you're already this far into it.

 

[Foggy]

i debated doing the gruven ones on my 14 when intake was off... i decided to use the oem gm ones...2 tees and i did the upgraded the
dorman heater hose assembly with the metal Y thats by the water pump.
i liked the gruven, but gm carries the 2 TEES inn stock and well priced. Dont get the dorman TEES

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thank you for your quick replies and recommendations, folks. Very much appreciated.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Hi Folks,

I'm looking at replacing both heater hoses, and I see a different connector going onto a 'Y' fitting on the water pump side of the other heater hose (the one that did not blow out). It appears to be a black collar with at least 1 circular hole in it.

What is the best way to remove this connector? Or perhaps, they are not meant to be removed?

Also, what is the recommended antifreeze coolant for this motor?

 

[donjetman]

That Y fitting does NOT come apart, (unless it breaks).

I replaced that hose with one that has a metal Y fitting, instead of plastic, Dorman# 626-553. It's also available from NAPA# 827-5730-1, $37

 

[Monz11]

Vibrant performance makes silicone heater hoses, a bit pricey, but youll never have to worry about them blowing

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-20445

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I got both heater hoses off the plastic 'T's, but what a PIA to to it! There is virtually no clearance to work in there, with those plastic 'T's sending coolant to the rear heater in the way of everything. The connector removal tool did not work, as the support structure of the plastic 'T's did not allow the tool to fully close around the nipple to disengage the white plastic tab hooks.

And, yes, they were dated 2007.

So, with a hack saw blade, I was able to cut the connector bridge pieces at the bottom of each window on both sides of the connector outer housing, and this allowed me to pull the connector outer housing off the nipple. Then, with curved needle nose pliers, I was able to bend the plastic hooks on the white plastic tab assembly out of the way of the ridge on the nipple, and slide the plastic tab assembly off the nipple.

Now, to get replacement hoses and reinstall.

 

[Rocket Man]

I got both heater hoses off the plastic 'T's, but what a PIA to to it! There is virtually no clearance to work in there, with those plastic 'T's sending coolant to the rear heater in the way of everything. The connector removal tool did not work, as the support structure of the plastic 'T's did not allow the tool to fully close around the nipple to disengage the white plastic tab hooks.

So, with a hack saw blade, I was able to cut the connector bridge pieces at the bottom of each window on both sides of the connector outer housing, and this allowed me to pull the connector outer housing off the nipple. Then, with curved needle nose pliers, I was able to bend the plastic hooks on the white plastic tab assembly out of the way of the ridge on the nipple, and slide the plastic tab assembly off the nipple.

Now, to get replacement hoses and reinstall.

I would just use some tin snips to cut those old parts off, but glad you got them off. Just make sure to get genuine ACDelco T’s and NOT the Dorman ones, but that Dorman Heater hose with the metal Y is better that the OEM one.

 

[OR VietVet]

When you are done have at least 2 cold beers at the ready for celebration. Make sure to pressure test your work when done.

 

[gooffeyguy]

The replacements will just push-n-click on.

Now you know why the factory used quick connectors on those.

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[Rocket Man]

The replacements will just push-n-click on.

Now you know why the factory used quick connectors on those.

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Yeah they’re quick connect but not quick disconnect. Easy. As hell to install.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Once the hoses are installed, what are your recommendations for preferred methods for refilling with coolant and purging of trapped air? Any concerns that I need to be aware of that are unique to these trucks?