Trouble removing your heater core T fittings with rear heat?? I have a suggestion

[82nd Abn]

I started this project because I had a bad thermostat. I replaced it with an AC Delco only to have the brand new one fail out of the box. I also replaced the AC belt, water pump, thermostat housing and fan clutch when I did the first thermostat. Not only di I have this one fail twice My 2002 jeep WJ failed stuck open after replacing it only a couple of weeks before this one so lightning does strike four times in the same spot!!!!! Symptoms in both vehicles was no heat. I still don't have rear heat in the Yukon but that is going to be another post. I bought what I thought was the correct tool (upgraded to aluminum) that slips under the clips on at the end of the T fittings. Didn't work out so well. The rivet holding the two halves together fell apart immediately so I used safety wire and to hold it together and tried again. It was not long enough once under and into the clip.

I spent and entire day in the cold garage (bought a propane heater) trying to get these fittings off then called it a day very frustrated. After sleeping on it I came up with an idea that I hope helps anyone that will have trouble getting these tittings off the Heater core tubes. I went to home depot and bought a 3/4 copper pipe coupler cut it with my dremel tool ad made tabs on the end in order to have something to hold onto with my fingertips and it worked.

You may have to tweek the radius a little, I did this by putting it in a vice. It really depends on the width of the piece, one I made was a little narrower than the other. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask, I will do my best to answer and help. PS I flushed the entire cooling system, front heater core, rear heater core, engine and radiator with some hoses I made up. If anyone is interested in the hoses I can post some pictures of them as well. On the initial flush of the front heater core a Large chunk of rusty something came out. The car is an 04 with 93K on it.

 

[Doubeleive]

good idea
and anyone could save a whole lot of time, money and frustration by simply cutting these plastic tabs (both sides) with a good set of needle nose pliers, they are usually brittle anyway by the time there done and basically snap right off.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Yes, I struggled with those Tees, as well. I cut the tab retainers, as @Doubeleive suggests above, and I was able to remove the Tees. This method definitely works.

Then, someone on this Forum suggested the following:

"Push the Tee further onto the pipe, turn/twist it a little bit while pushed in, then depress the tabs on the Tee, and with a twisting motion, pull the Tee back."

This really works, most of the time. (I never thought of twisting during the removal attempt.)

When you change out the tees, be sure to wear gloves, as the firewall insulation is quite aggressive, and your hands will itch for days.

 

[Doubeleive]

pushing those tabs does absolutely nothing when those clips have melded to the pipe for years, they just bend on the outside
might work for ones that are not that old or maybe have spent there entire life in a mild climate, try it on a 15 year old vehicle that has never been done...and has been in a hot climate.
for one the black plastic and the white plastic "tabs" are different types of plastic, the black gets brittle and or deteriorates/deforms, the white plastic softens & deforms
so the final word is "GOOD F-IN LUCK" if they do not just pull off, save yourself a headache and cut those tabs off.

 

[82nd Abn]

good idea
and anyone could save a whole lot of time, money and frustration by simply cutting these plastic tabs (both sides) with a good set of needle nose pliers, they are usually brittle anyway by the time there done and basically snap right off.
View attachment 477209

I did think about that however I was thinking to use a dremel tool and it would have been kind of awkward. I like your way much better. I struggled with the idea because I figured the rear hoses would have to be cut first and then removed so you could rotate the fitting to get to the tabs on the tubes coming out of the firewall. There isnt much room to pull the rear tubes and once they were removed I wasnt sure if I could rotate one of the fittings with them both still attached to get at the tabs on at least one. I do like your method, I just wasn't seeing it at the time. Thanks!!! I am hoping I never have to do this job again lol

 

[82nd Abn]

Yes, I struggled with those Tees, as well. I cut the tab retainers, as @Doubeleive suggests above, and I was able to remove the Tees. This method definitely works.

Then, someone on this Forum suggested the following:

"Push the Tee further onto the pipe, turn/twist it a little bit while pushed in, then depress the tabs on the Tee, and with a twisting motion, pull the Tee back."

This really works, most of the time. (I never thought of twisting during the removal attempt.)

When you change out the tees, be sure to wear gloves, as the firewall insulation is quite aggressive, and your hands will itch for days.

As I am sure you are aware these things sit in lousey position. As it was I had to put a pillow on top of the coolant pressure tank to save my ribs and stomach. I tried that method for hours only to get frustrated. My middle fingers skin is still recovering from trying to pinch those pesky tabs a week later. I am not as nimble as I used to be

 

[82nd Abn]

pushing those tabs does absolutely nothing when those clips have melded to the pipe for years, they just bend on the outside
might work for ones that are not that old or maybe have spent there entire life in a mild climate, try it on a 15 year old vehicle that has never been done...and has been in a hot climate.
for one the black plastic and the white plastic "tabs" are different types of plastic, the black gets brittle and or deteriorates/deforms, the white plastic softens & deforms
so the final word is "GOOD F-IN LUCK" if they do not just pull off, save yourself a headache and cut those tabs off.

I agree If I had to do it again I would have just clipped the part that prevents the tab from opening up as suggested in the first reply.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I agree If I had to do it again I would have just clipped the part that prevents the tab from opening up as suggested in the first reply.

That is fine and your choice. It works for sure.

 

[LsHart]

good idea
and anyone could save a whole lot of time, money and frustration by simply cutting these plastic tabs (both sides) with a good set of needle nose pliers, they are usually brittle anyway by the time there done and basically snap right off.
View attachment 477209

Has anyone tried these metal ones??

 

[LsHart]

Looks to be the same 800-413 and 414 but with HP on the end.

 

[Doubeleive]

I have not I think a couple people have. it is the same part just aluminum, which won't break but I wouldn't want to try and get one of those off if it started leaking down the road.
It is probably a solid fix though, then you just have to replace the hoses once in a while.

 

[LsHart]

Probably gets really hot being metal. I have the plastics. Came across those and wondered.

 

[LsHart]

I started this project because I had a bad thermostat. I replaced it with an AC Delco only to have the brand new one fail out of the box. I also replaced the AC belt, water pump, thermostat housing and fan clutch when I did the first thermostat. Not only di I have this one fail twice My 2002 jeep WJ failed stuck open after replacing it only a couple of weeks before this one so lightning does strike four times in the same spot!!!!! Symptoms in both vehicles was no heat. I still don't have rear heat in the Yukon but that is going to be another post. I bought what I thought was the correct tool (upgraded to aluminum) that slips under the clips on at the end of the T fittings. Didn't work out so well. The rivet holding the two halves together fell apart immediately so I used safety wire and to hold it together and tried again. It was not long enough once under and into the clip.
View attachment 477200
View attachment 477201

I spent and entire day in the cold garage (bought a propane heater) trying to get these fittings off then called it a day very frustrated. After sleeping on it I came up with an idea that I hope helps anyone that will have trouble getting these tittings off the Heater core tubes. I went to home depot and bought a 3/4 copper pipe coupler cut it with my dremel tool ad made tabs on the end in order to have something to hold onto with my fingertips and it worked.
View attachment 477202
View attachment 477203
View attachment 477204
View attachment 477205
View attachment 477206
You may have to tweek the radius a little, I did this by putting it in a vice. It really depends on the width of the piece, one I made was a little narrower than the other. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask, I will do my best to answer and help. PS I flushed the entire cooling system, front heater core, rear heater core, engine and radiator with some hoses I made up. If anyone is interested in the hoses I can post some pictures of them as well. On the initial flush of the front heater core a Large chunk of rusty something came out. The car is an 04 with 93K on it.

Let me know how those work out. Reminds me of the ones for the 3.8 +- buick intakes.