Gruven heater core T-connectors

[97audia4]

I'm still working with a company to make the complete hose in silicon and loose everything but the end clamps

 

[Rocket Man]

I'm still working with a company to make the complete hose in silicon and loose everything but the end clamps

That’s a great idea right there. I’m not a fan of the 6 clamps.

 

[jatkinson8755]

Why theres already a solution that everyone on here asked for ? Waste of time. The billet tee works perfectly.

 

[97audia4]

Why theres already a solution that everyone on here asked for ? Waste of time. The billet tee works perfectly.

It may work but the amount of clamping points is also a risk of failure . One molded hose would be less prone to leaks .

 

[Larryjb]

It may work but the amount of clamping points is also a risk of failure . One molded hose would be less prone to leaks .

Which is why I have never had to replace the "Y" heater hoses in my Tahoe or Explorer. Actually, I had to replace both of them. These "Y" hoses are the only hose leaks I've ever had in any vehicle I've ever owned. (Actually, I did have one hose connection leak, but that was with one of those screw clamps. I much prefer good quality spring clamps which keep constant tension on the fittings.)

The "Y" hose on my Explorer had to be a repair during a holiday, in another country. That hose and repair cost over $1000 USD. The hose itself was over $300. Yes, I got "hosed", but I'm not about to do DIY repairs in a campsite. An aluminum "Y" with hose clamps will be more reliable in the long run. Unfortunately, Gruven didn't have his aluminum "T"'s available when I needed them, so I had to go with the GM nylon "T"s

 

[jatkinson8755]

Ive had pretty much the same experiences with molded Y hoses, depending on the manufacturer. The weight of the floppy Y hose, bouncing around in the engine bay actually stresses the Y junction and most of the time they fail at that Y junction. So one molded Y hose is actually MORE likely to fail !!

Guess it depends on what chinese company actually molds the hose, and out of what ? The molded Y hose solution also isnt currently available either and its doubtful anyone would pay the $$ for tooling that up then a huge production run when apparently nobody really wanted this anyway. Seems like everyone is just buying the cheap plastic dorman fittings then selling their truck ? Not me.

Not sure at all what the issue you have with using hose clamps ?? They are used all over the engines for a hundred years lol.

Just dont over-tighten them and tear the silicone hose. The only issue Ive ever had with hose clamps is either over tightening them, or tightening them down onto a plastic fitting which collapses. Neither of the 2 failure modes would be an issue with a properly installed billet tee...

 

[Ilikemtb999]

So I got these installed the other day...

View attachment 226494
View attachment 226495
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After installing them and giving Paul, from Gruven, feedback on the fit and finish and because others on here have expressed concern over the fact that the one end doesn't have any barbs on it... I recommended to him that we add barbs to that end...

Here is a CAD drawing of the new design...
View attachment 226497

He will be sending me 2 more after he gets them done for some more R&D but I believe this will be the final design.

I also mentioned to him that some of you would prefer to see the spring style clamps instead of the worm gear style clamps.

I mentioned that due to the very limited space where these are installed that the spring style clamps might actually make the install easier.

He said he will check into them and see.

Just wanted to update this thread to keep you all in the loop.

Late to the party but glad to see he’s open to feedback. I HATE worm clamps as they’ll eat in to the hose regardless of tightness because of heat cycling. Spring clamps are the superior clamp by far.

 

[jatkinson8755]

im sure you could grab a few spring clamps for a few bucks if it really bothered you that much ... ive neved had an issue with them and hate spring clamps because you tend to lacerate your brachial artery trying to install or remove those stupid things, especially in such a tight spot as these would be... That and the spring force reduces as they wear and sometimes allow little leaks. Just use a screw clamp and dont over-tighten them, it will be fine for the next 100 years.

 

[iamdub]

Screw clamps, spring clamps, nipple clamps... Which one of you is gonna nut up and hard pipe your system with flux and solder or TIG?

 

[Rocket Man]

im sure you could grab a few spring clamps for a few bucks if it really bothered you that much ... ive neved had an issue with them and hate spring clamps because you tend to lacerate your brachial artery trying to install or remove those stupid things, especially in such a tight spot as these would be... That and the spring force reduces as they wear and sometimes allow little leaks. Just use a screw clamp and dont over-tighten them, it will be fine for the next 100 years.

I guess if you’re still using a pair of channel locks to r&r the spring clamps you might have problems. Buy a pair of spring clamp pliers and you’ll be amazed how easy they are to use. Even in the most difficult places. They ratchet to hold the clamp open and swivel so you can position the pliers conveniently. The springs also hold a steady pressure forever, never a leak. That’s why car makers use them. Screw clamps cut into the hose from the expansion when it gets hot, unlike spring clamps.