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Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
- Start date
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George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I've only found one "real vs. fake Denso" video on YT so far. But, plenty of results where people where questioning the authenticity of their "Denso" O2 sensors. Most were on Toyotas (high-priced sensors) and I think the oldest discussion was from 2018 with most being 2020-2021, right when the fake spark plugs and such were really starting to flood the market.
I kept the old sensors I took off of mine. I know I put 'em in a plastic bag, maybe the bag the new Densos were in. I don't know if I put them in the Denso boxes, though. It'd be cool to have that bit of evidence.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Well, that's a ray of hope. I saw that it remained in alcohol content learning mode for around 7-8 miles last time I was monitoring and it settled fairly accurately. This time it was learning for only 2, maybe 3 then stopped and with the content at 56%, just as it was before. I drove about 80 miles today but wasn't monitoring. I wanna spend some time tomorrow troubleshooting that speed sensor issue. If I can manage that, I'll pull another fuel sample.
Do you know if the PCM responds quicker and learns sooner with the physical sensor?
I used Denso 234-4668 (which I now see also shows up as "Denso 12594452"). I thought Denso provided sensors for AC Delco and, therefore, were OEM. Would the physical sensor remove the O2 sensors from the equation for calculating alcohol content?
Yes, the physical sensor calculates the AC% near instantaneously but do not remember if it later "spot checks". I learned this from a guy over at Silverado/Sierra who installed the sensor on his 900 pickup.
Chris, that sensor part number is not for our motors. 12583804/213-3866 for Downstream and 12609457/213-4229 for Upstream.
On the "smart page" for the sensors on the ACDelco website is an interchange list. 10 different numbers are listed for other manufacturers but I do not know if they would throw off the alcohol content or not. Never got that far to record part numbers of the sensors that caused problems.
I know George. This is a recently revelation after years of discussing this.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Now I have no idea how I came up with that number. Maybe RA? I just checked RA and they list Denso 2344668 as the upstream sensor. They don't list any "GM Genuine" upstream sensors. I have no use for the downstream sensors other than to keep the holes plugged.
Also, RA lists a "GM Genuine 2133866" for the downstream sensor. That's a Denso part number that coincides with what you just posted. Maybe this is how the suspicion that Denso is the OEM for ACDelco/GM Genuine? I'm wondering, with my luck, if I just so happened to rely on RA's info and it was incorrect.
O'Reilly says 213-3866 and 213-4229 are both for downstream for a 2008 Tahoe VIN 0. It says the 234-4668 is the upstream.
Napa guarantees 234-4668, 213-4229, 213-3866 to fit, but doesn't specify position.
The ACDelco Parts Catalog (the one I found) shows 213-3866 and 213-4229 both as downstream.
Screw all this. I'm gonna get Dorman sensors.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Removed both rear wheel speed sensors. I cleaned their tips and stuck a paper towel into the holes on the axle tube and spun the wheels in both directions to wipe the axle shaft clean. Reinstalled the sensors swapped from their original positions. The fault code went from LR sensor to RR, indicating a dead sensor.
Used an 1/8" steel cable wrapped around the center of the tire with the vehicle weight on it to get yet another circumference measurement to ensure my speedometer was as accurate as it could possibly be within my control.
Went to collect a fuel sample and when I loosened the cap on the fuel rail, fuel sprayed out. I thought maybe the gasket in the end of the cap had fallen out of place and was pressing on the valve. Nope:
I went to the drawer in my tool box where I keep the core tool and found this:
So now I'm ready to put this thing back to stock, sell it to buy a Corolla and sell off all my tools and equipment before I kill myself or someone else. Clearly, the dementia is setting in early for me.
Used an 1/8" steel cable wrapped around the center of the tire with the vehicle weight on it to get yet another circumference measurement to ensure my speedometer was as accurate as it could possibly be within my control.
Went to collect a fuel sample and when I loosened the cap on the fuel rail, fuel sprayed out. I thought maybe the gasket in the end of the cap had fallen out of place and was pressing on the valve. Nope:
I went to the drawer in my tool box where I keep the core tool and found this:
So now I'm ready to put this thing back to stock, sell it to buy a Corolla and sell off all my tools and equipment before I kill myself or someone else. Clearly, the dementia is setting in early for me.
Whoopsie
CaptainAmerica1
Full Access Member
Oops
gooffeyguy
Tom
Surprised the cap was able to hold the pressure in
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Thank God it did.
mikez71
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certain things you just have to double-check.. and sometimes you forget to..
I'm betting you put the cap on after taking the core out, so dust wouldn't get in..
If you do it again, THEN you have dementia..
I'm betting you put the cap on after taking the core out, so dust wouldn't get in..
If you do it again, THEN you have dementia..
It's not clear in the pic but I hope that the one you installed has a gasket on it.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Well... You see...
After I got my sample and removed the hose, I caught myself picking up the cap and going for the fuel rail. I was about to do it AGAIN. I don't like me today.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
The core? It's just as I took it out and it went in just as it is in that pic. It has the clear plastic tapered gasket on the body, if that's what you're talking about.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
We run the same 2 part numbers in our three trucks, you can trust my description. The connectors are different anyways, if wrong, just switch positions.Now I have no idea how I came up with that number. Maybe RA? I just checked RA and they list Denso 2344668 as the upstream sensor. They don't list any "GM Genuine" upstream sensors. I have no use for the downstream sensors other than to keep the holes plugged.
Also, RA lists a "GM Genuine 2133866" for the downstream sensor. That's a Denso part number that coincides with what you just posted. Maybe this is how the suspicion that Denso is the OEM for ACDelco/GM Genuine? I'm wondering, with my luck, if I just so happened to rely on RA's info and it was incorrect.
O'Reilly says 213-3866 and 213-4229 are both for downstream for a 2008 Tahoe VIN 0. It says the 234-4668 is the upstream.
Napa guarantees 234-4668, 213-4229, 213-3866 to fit, but doesn't specify position.
The ACDelco Parts Catalog (the one I found) shows 213-3866 and 213-4229 both as downstream.
Screw all this. I'm gonna get Dorman sensors.
gooffeyguy
Tom
A bit pricey when you add shipping, but no core removal needed. It depresses it when screwed on
Fuel Rail Pressure Gauge Adapter for GM/Chrysler Schrader Valve Service Port https://a.co/d/917BVvZ
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Did you get the ABS wire problem settled? I was going to write a reply and forgot with all the other topics we had going at the time.
I stretched one out once but didn't break it. When the bed was removed from one of our pickups for painting one was stretched out and broke internally.
I stretched one out once but didn't break it. When the bed was removed from one of our pickups for painting one was stretched out and broke internally.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
For what it's worth, I bought the oem gm sensors and they have denso etched on the sensor itself. But, I too, am hanging at 21.6% alcohol, even after filling over half a tank with 100% gas. All previous fill ups have been e10 for years. I think I put e85 in it a few times in 2012-2013 but not since then
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I've looked at that and another version a few times ever since @swathdiver mentioned that exact one a good while back. I almost pull the trigger then tell myself that this will be the last time I deal with this since I'm going back to regular E10 93 until I get a physical sensor. Then I don't do either.
Honestly, I'm kinda fed up with the whole thing. I think it's stupid that it takes miles and miles and days of driving for it to finally read half-assed close, assuming all pertinent components and systems are operating properly. Then, apparently, it needs to be reset ever so often to "unstick" it from reading certain ways. It's a whole lot of to-do for a return that you might not get, in full or in part, and you will only know after you've put the fuel in your tank and have waited. Comparing E0-E10 93 with E85 at the track is impossible.
