New member/new Tahoe owner here (2010 LTZ)! Loving it so far, but getting the runaround on a repair quote and also have a few questions in general.

[DamThatRiver24]

Hey there all; greetings from Wyoming! Wife and I were recently gifted (yes, really lol) a 2010 Tahoe LTZ after our 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid blew a motor. Almost perfect condition, currently has about 135k on it, barely a scratch on or in it. We absolutely love it. A couple light bulbs, wiper blades, a battery, and a rear glass switch and that's literally all she needed.

However, the air ride compressor is shot. You know the sound...the incredibly loud grating/grinding of a bad compressor every time it kicks on (i.e., on startup and then when load is placed on the rear...it's not running continuously, fwiw). Now, I've perused through the forums and watched a few vids on replacing it on my own...but those have actually made me even more bewildered at the quotes I've gotten from dealerships/shops and I need y'all's thoughts/opinions.

Our GM dealership says the compressor is $140 (seems in the ballpark) and 3-4 hrs book time (seems wildly high; isn't this like an hour job tops?). But they also seem to be confused as to what the actual part is and want us to bring it in for them to confirm (which is kind of a pita) before they can even order it. Did the Z55 package come from the factory with different compressor options? They said something about it possibly being a "smart" compressor, which struck me as odd because I haven't seen anything like that other than a few aftermarket kits. They also said the labor time differed within the mentioned range based on that. Whole thing seemed kinda weird. But, in conclusion, the overall price seems like about what I would have expected ($600 range).

Next up was the Ford dealership (we've owned Fords prior to this and they have been our preferred place for a while; they've been good to us...I know, surprising for a dealership). They are quoting us $1250 total. Opposite problem here: the part they are seeing is supposedly $1,000 (seems wildly high for just the compressor), while labor is only about an hour (more like what I thought it should be).

Thirdly was an independent shop we haven't used before but came highly recommended. He's quoting us $1550; about a thousand for the part (same as the Ford dealership) and over $500 in labor (both of which are insane to me)....and he was a bit pushy about doing a non-air ride conversion for $2200.

Now, most compressors I've seen are in the $150-250 range and are all the exact same type...and everyone I've seen here and in videos says it's like a half hour job DiY, and actual book time is around 1.5.

What am I missing here, and what is with the wildly different quotes between the three places? Again, this is JUST for the compressor. (I believe I may have a very (and I mean very) slow leak in the shocks themselves, but either way the compressor is done for and I'm floored at the fact that no one seems to know what's what. I just want to replace the thing, man!)

I'll do it on my own if I have to, but these quotes and some of the things said in passing from the shops have me second guessing whether or not I'm even getting the correct compressor. Lol. Are we sure it's the Dorman 949-099/Arnott P3242?

Anyway...couple of follow up questions:

I have no service history on this between 60k and current mileage of 135k. The manual is indicating 150k for trans service, but I'm seeing a lot of guys saying they do theirs every 30k (which seems crazy to me). What are y'all's thoughts? Do I need to do this absolutely immediately? (Was planning on doing the transfer case and coolant as well, fwiw.)

I'll also be doing the plugs/wires soon...historically I've used NGK Iridium IXs in everything I own, but I'm seeing a lot of guys say it's best to stick with the ACDelcos. Any input?

Last but not least...am I correct in that these things have no cabin air filter? Seems like a weird thing to skip out on, with all the other options that are on this thing. Lol.

Anyway, sorry for the long post and thanks a ton for reading. Glad to be a part of the club; this thing seems super nice and we're loving it.

 

[Fless]

Welcome from Colorado!

 

[j91z28d1]

as I understand it the Dorman compressor is pretty good and shouldn't be to hard to swap yourself. Just wear someglasses, so much stuff falls in your eyes anytime you're under the back. Inspect the shocks, it's probably about time the go too?

ngk while good, just use oem plugs and wires. if you have any issues down the road you won't be guessing if it's plugs and wires related.


there is no cabin airfilter stock, but there's a dealer kit you can install one. check under the passenger side it might already have it. mine did, if not there's a tsb about adding it.

I'm not a tranny guy, but I believe you're running on borrowed time on that torque converter if oem. when it goes, it takes the tranny out which is $5k+ it seems by posts here. so if you can, get a upgraded converter and that fluid/filter change.

good luck with it.

 

[petethepug]

Whoa, those folks really gave you the welcome fleecing treatment.

Seriously though it’s all really basic … cabin filter retrofit kit …

https://a.co/d/4A6QKzn

Google how to install it.

All the quotes you’ve been given are substantially for a compressor as well as two rear z55 active air struts. Let’s see here …

Compressor… $190-$345. Most have lifetime warranty. Some like Arnott also have thermal overload / overheating protection.

2 AC Delco rear z55 struts with a lifetime guarantee $308.79 ea

Figure 2-$4h if it’s just the compressor and 9h-$1.1k if all three need replacing with a lifetime guarantee.

Watch how to swap em out on YouTube and it’ll blow u away how ez it is.

 

[OR VietVet]

Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

 

[petethepug]

Damn, did you get gifted a truck with the diamond tricoat paint? That thing is Sano clean, especially the rims. Looks like a pro detailer owned it and drove it as his work truck to show off his skills.

 

[Doubeleive]

Hey there all; greetings from Wyoming! Wife and I were recently gifted (yes, really lol) a 2010 Tahoe LTZ after our 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid blew a motor. Almost perfect condition, currently has about 135k on it, barely a scratch on or in it. We absolutely love it. A couple light bulbs, wiper blades, a battery, and a rear glass switch and that's literally all she needed.

However, the air ride compressor is shot. You know the sound...the incredibly loud grating/grinding of a bad compressor every time it kicks on (i.e., on startup and then when load is placed on the rear...it's not running continuously, fwiw). Now, I've perused through the forums and watched a few vids on replacing it on my own...but those have actually made me even more bewildered at the quotes I've gotten from dealerships/shops and I need y'all's thoughts/opinions.

Our GM dealership says the compressor is $140 (seems in the ballpark) and 3-4 hrs book time (seems wildly high; isn't this like an hour job tops?). But they also seem to be confused as to what the actual part is and want us to bring it in for them to confirm (which is kind of a pita) before they can even order it. Did the Z55 package come from the factory with different compressor options? They said something about it possibly being a "smart" compressor, which struck me as odd because I haven't seen anything like that other than a few aftermarket kits. They also said the labor time differed within the mentioned range based on that. Whole thing seemed kinda weird. But, in conclusion, the overall price seems like about what I would have expected ($600 range).

Next up was the Ford dealership (we've owned Fords prior to this and they have been our preferred place for a while; they've been good to us...I know, surprising for a dealership). They are quoting us $1250 total. Opposite problem here: the part they are seeing is supposedly $1,000 (seems wildly high for just the compressor), while labor is only about an hour (more like what I thought it should be).

Thirdly was an independent shop we haven't used before but came highly recommended. He's quoting us $1550; about a thousand for the part (same as the Ford dealership) and over $500 in labor (both of which are insane to me)....and he was a bit pushy about doing a non-air ride conversion for $2200.

Now, most compressors I've seen are in the $150-250 range and are all the exact same type...and everyone I've seen here and in videos says it's like a half hour job DiY, and actual book time is around 1.5.

What am I missing here, and what is with the wildly different quotes between the three places? Again, this is JUST for the compressor. (I believe I may have a very (and I mean very) slow leak in the shocks themselves, but either way the compressor is done for and I'm floored at the fact that no one seems to know what's what. I just want to replace the thing, man!)

I'll do it on my own if I have to, but these quotes and some of the things said in passing from the shops have me second guessing whether or not I'm even getting the correct compressor. Lol. Are we sure it's the Dorman 949-099/Arnott P3242?

Anyway...couple of follow up questions:

I have no service history on this between 60k and current mileage of 135k. The manual is indicating 150k for trans service, but I'm seeing a lot of guys saying they do theirs every 30k (which seems crazy to me). What are y'all's thoughts? Do I need to do this absolutely immediately? (Was planning on doing the transfer case and coolant as well, fwiw.)

I'll also be doing the plugs/wires soon...historically I've used NGK Iridium IXs in everything I own, but I'm seeing a lot of guys say it's best to stick with the ACDelcos. Any input?

Last but not least...am I correct in that these things have no cabin air filter? Seems like a weird thing to skip out on, with all the other options that are on this thing. Lol.

Anyway, sorry for the long post and thanks a ton for reading. Glad to be a part of the club; this thing seems super nice and we're loving it.View attachment 424917

i will just say if you can get a compressor from the dealer for $140 grab it and run... that must be a mistake otherwise I would recomend the dorman
as for installing it, "3 bolts", "a wireharness", "a airline connector". super easy! you don't even need a jack. it's a minutes job, not hours.

I am one of those that has the transmission service done pretty much annually, so it could be 10k-15k, maybe a smidge more. it's cheap insurance my dealer charges like $219.

if you later decide to do the 2 rear shocks you can get the arnott z55 ones for like $250 each, they charge a $50 core per shock that gets refunded when you send your old ones back in. those you can also do pretty easily but will require a jack.

cabin filter can be retro-fitted the kit with filter is like $50, you just cut out the hole for it.

stick with ac delco plugs/wires

 

[swathdiver]

Welcome from Florida!

Aftermarket compressors do not talk to the computer system, the GM compressor does. I learned that from Joe if memory serves. @Joseph Garcia

150K transmission service is asking for it. The fluid is dead by 45K miles. Therefore, running the severe service schedule is required. Almost nobody qualifies for regular service use when you read the book. I change mine between 36-42K miles, when I get around to it. Clean fluids are cheap insurance to part longevity.

 

[petethepug]

Hmmmn, interesting stuff. When I pull my dead compressor out I’ll see if it’s OEM on my 09.

Hey Arnott, why do you only buy back z55 and not z95 cores? Is it a Proposition 65 like thing here in CA and it causes cell mutations?

Welcome from Florida!

Aftermarket compressors do not talk to the computer system, the GM compressor does. I learned that from Joe if memory serves.

 

[Doubeleive]

Welcome from Florida!

Aftermarket compressors do not talk to the computer system, the GM compressor does. I learned that from Joe if memory serves. @Joseph Garcia

150K transmission service is asking for it. The fluid is dead by 45K miles. Therefore, running the severe service schedule is required. Almost nobody qualifies for regular service use when you read the book. I change mine between 36-42K miles, when I get around to it. Clean fluids are cheap insurance to part longevity.

never heard of the compressor not "talking" to the computer. I did not experience that when testing a couple of bad compressors. 1 gave erratic data and the other had a leaking relief valve. 3rd worked fine and has been for like 4 years now

 

[DamThatRiver24]

Thanks all! Yea; that pretty much confirms my suspicions...two out of the three places are either trying to fleece me or are looking at the wrong parts (or both). And the Chevy dealership, while not outrageous price-wise, seems just...incompetent. Lol. I'll just order the Dorman compressor this weekend probably and do it myself, haha. I think I can hold off on the shocks for a bit (a bit cash-strapped right now and if they're leaking, it's extremely slow), but they're on the priority list as well.

Y'all also confirming everything I've read on the trans service, in spite of what the manual says. I really wish I had recent service records for this thing, but the GM records stopped at 60k so I have zero clue when anything was done last other than a few minor things that the last owner still had the paperwork on. Will do the trans/transfer case/coolant ASAP. Just wanted to confirm, because I've never owned a vehicle that has had anywhere near that short of a lifespan on trans fluid. Poor trans design or poor fluid specs?

10-4 on the plugs/wires. I've never had issues with NGK and have run them in almost everything for the last 20 years, but I do have an older F150 that does better with the actual Motorcraft plugs/COPs so it makes sense. Some trucks just do better with the OE stuff for sure. I'll stick with the 'Delcos.

@swathdiver I've not come across anything like that? I know some of the aftermarket shocks don't read correctly and have to have (or come with) a conversion kit/relay of some sort to avoid errors, but I've not seen that with the compressors themselves.

@petethepug Haha yea; this thing is AMAZINGLY spotless for a 14 year old truck. From what I can see in the records, the first owners (up to 60k miles) were meticulous about service and detailing and brought the vehicle in to dealers for numerous small chip/paint repairs during that time. I have no idea what happened with owners between 60k and about 130k, but the last owner (the one who gifted it to us) doesn't like driving in general and put a very delicate 5k on it over the course of a couple of years. It's not been abused.

There is a tiny rust spot (less than the size of a dime) on the side at the RR wheel well that I need to nip in the bud, a few small scratches, and some light surface rust underneath the vehicle on the subframe and such...but that's about it. And the interior is practically spotless...a couple tears in doorstripping and a small crack in the dash, but flawless otherwise.

I did forget to mention that the driver's side heated seat just went out on us a few weeks ago, but it's not really a priority. A convenience during our brutal winters here in Laramie, but not something I'm jumping up and down over. I'll get around to it, lol.

 

[Geotrash]

Thanks all! Yea; that pretty much confirms my suspicions...two out of the three places are either trying to fleece me or are looking at the wrong parts (or both). And the Chevy dealership, while not outrageous price-wise, seems just...incompetent. Lol. I'll just order the Dorman compressor this weekend probably and do it myself, haha. I think I can hold off on the shocks for a bit (a bit cash-strapped right now and if they're leaking, it's extremely slow), but they're on the priority list as well.

Y'all also confirming everything I've read on the trans service, in spite of what the manual says. I really wish I had recent service records for this thing, but the GM records stopped at 60k so I have zero clue when anything was done last other than a few minor things that the last owner still had the paperwork on. Will do the trans/transfer case/coolant ASAP. Just wanted to confirm, because I've never owned a vehicle that has had anywhere near that short of a lifespan on trans fluid. Poor trans design or poor fluid specs?

10-4 on the plugs/wires. I've never had issues with NGK and have run them in almost everything for the last 20 years, but I do have an older F150 that does better with the actual Motorcraft plugs/COPs so it makes sense. Some trucks just do better with the OE stuff for sure. I'll stick with the 'Delcos.

@swathdiver I've not come across anything like that? I know some of the aftermarket shocks don't read correctly and have to have (or come with) a conversion kit/relay of some sort to avoid errors, but I've not seen that with the compressors themselves.

@petethepug Haha yea; this thing is AMAZINGLY spotless for a 14 year old truck. From what I can see in the records, the first owners (up to 60k miles) were meticulous about service and detailing and brought the vehicle in to dealers for numerous small chip/paint repairs during that time. I have no idea what happened with owners between 60k and about 130k, but the last owner (the one who gifted it to us) doesn't like driving in general and put a very delicate 5k on it over the course of a couple of years. It's not been abused.

There is a tiny rust spot (less than the size of a dime) on the side at the RR wheel well that I need to nip in the bud, a few small scratches, and some light surface rust underneath the vehicle on the subframe and such...but that's about it. And the interior is practically spotless...a couple tears in doorstripping and a small crack in the dash, but flawless otherwise.

I did forget to mention that the driver's side heated seat just went out on us a few weeks ago, but it's not really a priority. A convenience during our brutal winters here in Laramie, but not something I'm jumping up and down over. I'll get around to it, lol.

Hmmmm...weeeeellll... If either of your shocks are leaking at all, it will take out that new compressor in short order. You'd be better off just unplugging the compressor for now or pulling the fuse.

On the heated seat, check the fuse and then check the connector under the seat. They're notorious for getting hot and melting just enough to stop working.

And yes, those Laramie winters are no joke. I used to work on drilling rigs as a geologist around Wamsutter in the winter, and that frigid wind will curl your hair.

 

[DamThatRiver24]

On the heated seat, check the fuse and then check the connector under the seat. They're notorious for getting hot and melting just enough to stop working.

And yes, those Laramie winters are no joke. I used to work on drilling rigs as a geologist around Wamsutter in the winter, and that frigid wind will curl your hair.

Yup, those were the first things I checked. I've lurked here for a little bit and have seen some pretty gnarly melted connectors, haha. Fuse is good and so is the connector; no melting or scorching at all (VERY slight bit of discoloration around that one pin, but nothing concerning). The actual switch in the door panel is also good. That just leaves the element, relay, and actual pads...all of which are more expensive than I care to spend money on right now with winter (hopefully) coming to an end and other things, as mentioned, on the priority list.

I'll definitely want to fix it before next winter though, haha. It's certainly nice having those kick on with the remote start when we're at -20°F without our notorious wind chill.

 

[Doubeleive]

Thanks all! Yea; that pretty much confirms my suspicions...two out of the three places are either trying to fleece me or are looking at the wrong parts (or both). And the Chevy dealership, while not outrageous price-wise, seems just...incompetent. Lol. I'll just order the Dorman compressor this weekend probably and do it myself, haha. I think I can hold off on the shocks for a bit (a bit cash-strapped right now and if they're leaking, it's extremely slow), but they're on the priority list as well.

Y'all also confirming everything I've read on the trans service, in spite of what the manual says. I really wish I had recent service records for this thing, but the GM records stopped at 60k so I have zero clue when anything was done last other than a few minor things that the last owner still had the paperwork on. Will do the trans/transfer case/coolant ASAP. Just wanted to confirm, because I've never owned a vehicle that has had anywhere near that short of a lifespan on trans fluid. Poor trans design or poor fluid specs?

10-4 on the plugs/wires. I've never had issues with NGK and have run them in almost everything for the last 20 years, but I do have an older F150 that does better with the actual Motorcraft plugs/COPs so it makes sense. Some trucks just do better with the OE stuff for sure. I'll stick with the 'Delcos.

@swathdiver I've not come across anything like that? I know some of the aftermarket shocks don't read correctly and have to have (or come with) a conversion kit/relay of some sort to avoid errors, but I've not seen that with the compressors themselves.

@petethepug Haha yea; this thing is AMAZINGLY spotless for a 14 year old truck. From what I can see in the records, the first owners (up to 60k miles) were meticulous about service and detailing and brought the vehicle in to dealers for numerous small chip/paint repairs during that time. I have no idea what happened with owners between 60k and about 130k, but the last owner (the one who gifted it to us) doesn't like driving in general and put a very delicate 5k on it over the course of a couple of years. It's not been abused.

There is a tiny rust spot (less than the size of a dime) on the side at the RR wheel well that I need to nip in the bud, a few small scratches, and some light surface rust underneath the vehicle on the subframe and such...but that's about it. And the interior is practically spotless...a couple tears in doorstripping and a small crack in the dash, but flawless otherwise.

I did forget to mention that the driver's side heated seat just went out on us a few weeks ago, but it's not really a priority. A convenience during our brutal winters here in Laramie, but not something I'm jumping up and down over. I'll get around to it, lol.

the weak spot on the 6l80's is the torque converter, changing the fluid more often is just a good idea, the best option is to upgrade it to a billet converter.
if the converter goes it out it takes the pump and bell housing and strator with it basically imploding. Other things can happen as well the check balls shrink, clutches wear, etc.
a good shop knows all the fixes to make it pretty bullet proof.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

never heard of the compressor not "talking" to the computer. I did not experience that when testing a couple of bad compressors. 1 gave erratic data and the other had a leaking relief valve. 3rd worked fine and has been for like 4 years now

When @swathdiver referred to my finding, I could not find the shocks current air pressure reading on my Tech 2 with a Dorman compressor. The rest of the communication with the Dorman compressor were fine. But, to me, that omission was relevant to the troubleshooting procedures. Kind of like, if you don't know where you are, how can you decide on where to go.

 

[Doubeleive]

When @swathdiver referred to my finding, I could not find the shocks current air pressure reading on my Tech 2 with a Dorman compressor. The rest of the communication with the Dorman compressor were fine. But, to me, that omission was relevant to the troubleshooting procedures. Kind of like, if you don't know where you are, how can you decide on where to go.

weird I have the dorman and it shows the psi on the tech2View attachment 424964

 

[Joseph Garcia]

weird I have the dorman and it shows the psi on the tech2View attachment 424964View attachment 424968

It could possibly be limited to the specific Dorman compressor (defect?) that I bought, then, but I do not get that air pressure line in my Tech 2 readout.

 

[Doubeleive]

It could possibly be limited to the specific Dorman compressor (defect?) that I bought, then, but I do not get that air pressure line in my Tech 2 readout.

might have something to do with the vehicle selection, you can try doing it with other years and see if it shows up then, mine is a 12
the worst that will happen is either it will error out or say unable to communicate. It doesn't hurt anything to probe with the tech2 with different years/vin selection

 

[Joseph Garcia]

might have something to do with the vehicle selection, you can try doing it with other years and see if it shows up then, mine is a 12
the worst that will happen is either it will error out or say unable to communicate. It doesn't hurt anything to probe with the tech2 with different years/vin selection

Thank you for that suggestion. I'll try that the next time that I have my Tech 2 out.

 

[petethepug]

You got your truck at a really good time. The TYF has such a huge knowledge base. It’s perfect combo of Pro’s, enthusiasts, perfectionist, detailers and owners loyal to its lineage.

Getting a compressor with thermal / overload protection and a lifetime guarantee ensures potential leaky rear shocks won’t cost you a dime down the road. Having GM and many others offer lifetime guarantees with substantially lower parts prices makes this chassis a winner.