New member/new Tahoe owner here (2010 LTZ)! Loving it so far, but getting the runaround on a repair quote and also have a few questions in general.

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DamThatRiver24

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Thanks all! Yea; that pretty much confirms my suspicions...two out of the three places are either trying to fleece me or are looking at the wrong parts (or both). And the Chevy dealership, while not outrageous price-wise, seems just...incompetent. Lol. I'll just order the Dorman compressor this weekend probably and do it myself, haha. I think I can hold off on the shocks for a bit (a bit cash-strapped right now and if they're leaking, it's extremely slow), but they're on the priority list as well.

Y'all also confirming everything I've read on the trans service, in spite of what the manual says. I really wish I had recent service records for this thing, but the GM records stopped at 60k so I have zero clue when anything was done last other than a few minor things that the last owner still had the paperwork on. Will do the trans/transfer case/coolant ASAP. Just wanted to confirm, because I've never owned a vehicle that has had anywhere near that short of a lifespan on trans fluid. Poor trans design or poor fluid specs?

10-4 on the plugs/wires. I've never had issues with NGK and have run them in almost everything for the last 20 years, but I do have an older F150 that does better with the actual Motorcraft plugs/COPs so it makes sense. Some trucks just do better with the OE stuff for sure. I'll stick with the 'Delcos.

@swathdiver I've not come across anything like that? I know some of the aftermarket shocks don't read correctly and have to have (or come with) a conversion kit/relay of some sort to avoid errors, but I've not seen that with the compressors themselves.

@petethepug Haha yea; this thing is AMAZINGLY spotless for a 14 year old truck. From what I can see in the records, the first owners (up to 60k miles) were meticulous about service and detailing and brought the vehicle in to dealers for numerous small chip/paint repairs during that time. I have no idea what happened with owners between 60k and about 130k, but the last owner (the one who gifted it to us) doesn't like driving in general and put a very delicate 5k on it over the course of a couple of years. It's not been abused.

There is a tiny rust spot (less than the size of a dime) on the side at the RR wheel well that I need to nip in the bud, a few small scratches, and some light surface rust underneath the vehicle on the subframe and such...but that's about it. And the interior is practically spotless...a couple tears in doorstripping and a small crack in the dash, but flawless otherwise.

I did forget to mention that the driver's side heated seat just went out on us a few weeks ago, but it's not really a priority. A convenience during our brutal winters here in Laramie, but not something I'm jumping up and down over. I'll get around to it, lol.
 

Geotrash

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Thanks all! Yea; that pretty much confirms my suspicions...two out of the three places are either trying to fleece me or are looking at the wrong parts (or both). And the Chevy dealership, while not outrageous price-wise, seems just...incompetent. Lol. I'll just order the Dorman compressor this weekend probably and do it myself, haha. I think I can hold off on the shocks for a bit (a bit cash-strapped right now and if they're leaking, it's extremely slow), but they're on the priority list as well.

Y'all also confirming everything I've read on the trans service, in spite of what the manual says. I really wish I had recent service records for this thing, but the GM records stopped at 60k so I have zero clue when anything was done last other than a few minor things that the last owner still had the paperwork on. Will do the trans/transfer case/coolant ASAP. Just wanted to confirm, because I've never owned a vehicle that has had anywhere near that short of a lifespan on trans fluid. Poor trans design or poor fluid specs?

10-4 on the plugs/wires. I've never had issues with NGK and have run them in almost everything for the last 20 years, but I do have an older F150 that does better with the actual Motorcraft plugs/COPs so it makes sense. Some trucks just do better with the OE stuff for sure. I'll stick with the 'Delcos.

@swathdiver I've not come across anything like that? I know some of the aftermarket shocks don't read correctly and have to have (or come with) a conversion kit/relay of some sort to avoid errors, but I've not seen that with the compressors themselves.

@petethepug Haha yea; this thing is AMAZINGLY spotless for a 14 year old truck. From what I can see in the records, the first owners (up to 60k miles) were meticulous about service and detailing and brought the vehicle in to dealers for numerous small chip/paint repairs during that time. I have no idea what happened with owners between 60k and about 130k, but the last owner (the one who gifted it to us) doesn't like driving in general and put a very delicate 5k on it over the course of a couple of years. It's not been abused.

There is a tiny rust spot (less than the size of a dime) on the side at the RR wheel well that I need to nip in the bud, a few small scratches, and some light surface rust underneath the vehicle on the subframe and such...but that's about it. And the interior is practically spotless...a couple tears in doorstripping and a small crack in the dash, but flawless otherwise.

I did forget to mention that the driver's side heated seat just went out on us a few weeks ago, but it's not really a priority. A convenience during our brutal winters here in Laramie, but not something I'm jumping up and down over. I'll get around to it, lol.
Hmmmm...weeeeellll... If either of your shocks are leaking at all, it will take out that new compressor in short order. You'd be better off just unplugging the compressor for now or pulling the fuse.

On the heated seat, check the fuse and then check the connector under the seat. They're notorious for getting hot and melting just enough to stop working.

And yes, those Laramie winters are no joke. I used to work on drilling rigs as a geologist around Wamsutter in the winter, and that frigid wind will curl your hair.
 
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DamThatRiver24

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On the heated seat, check the fuse and then check the connector under the seat. They're notorious for getting hot and melting just enough to stop working.

And yes, those Laramie winters are no joke. I used to work on drilling rigs as a geologist around Wamsutter in the winter, and that frigid wind will curl your hair.

Yup, those were the first things I checked. I've lurked here for a little bit and have seen some pretty gnarly melted connectors, haha. Fuse is good and so is the connector; no melting or scorching at all (VERY slight bit of discoloration around that one pin, but nothing concerning). The actual switch in the door panel is also good. That just leaves the element, relay, and actual pads...all of which are more expensive than I care to spend money on right now with winter (hopefully) coming to an end and other things, as mentioned, on the priority list.

I'll definitely want to fix it before next winter though, haha. It's certainly nice having those kick on with the remote start when we're at -20°F without our notorious wind chill.
 

Doubeleive

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Thanks all! Yea; that pretty much confirms my suspicions...two out of the three places are either trying to fleece me or are looking at the wrong parts (or both). And the Chevy dealership, while not outrageous price-wise, seems just...incompetent. Lol. I'll just order the Dorman compressor this weekend probably and do it myself, haha. I think I can hold off on the shocks for a bit (a bit cash-strapped right now and if they're leaking, it's extremely slow), but they're on the priority list as well.

Y'all also confirming everything I've read on the trans service, in spite of what the manual says. I really wish I had recent service records for this thing, but the GM records stopped at 60k so I have zero clue when anything was done last other than a few minor things that the last owner still had the paperwork on. Will do the trans/transfer case/coolant ASAP. Just wanted to confirm, because I've never owned a vehicle that has had anywhere near that short of a lifespan on trans fluid. Poor trans design or poor fluid specs?

10-4 on the plugs/wires. I've never had issues with NGK and have run them in almost everything for the last 20 years, but I do have an older F150 that does better with the actual Motorcraft plugs/COPs so it makes sense. Some trucks just do better with the OE stuff for sure. I'll stick with the 'Delcos.

@swathdiver I've not come across anything like that? I know some of the aftermarket shocks don't read correctly and have to have (or come with) a conversion kit/relay of some sort to avoid errors, but I've not seen that with the compressors themselves.

@petethepug Haha yea; this thing is AMAZINGLY spotless for a 14 year old truck. From what I can see in the records, the first owners (up to 60k miles) were meticulous about service and detailing and brought the vehicle in to dealers for numerous small chip/paint repairs during that time. I have no idea what happened with owners between 60k and about 130k, but the last owner (the one who gifted it to us) doesn't like driving in general and put a very delicate 5k on it over the course of a couple of years. It's not been abused.

There is a tiny rust spot (less than the size of a dime) on the side at the RR wheel well that I need to nip in the bud, a few small scratches, and some light surface rust underneath the vehicle on the subframe and such...but that's about it. And the interior is practically spotless...a couple tears in doorstripping and a small crack in the dash, but flawless otherwise.

I did forget to mention that the driver's side heated seat just went out on us a few weeks ago, but it's not really a priority. A convenience during our brutal winters here in Laramie, but not something I'm jumping up and down over. I'll get around to it, lol.
the weak spot on the 6l80's is the torque converter, changing the fluid more often is just a good idea, the best option is to upgrade it to a billet converter.
if the converter goes it out it takes the pump and bell housing and strator with it basically imploding. Other things can happen as well the check balls shrink, clutches wear, etc.
a good shop knows all the fixes to make it pretty bullet proof.
 

Joseph Garcia

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never heard of the compressor not "talking" to the computer. I did not experience that when testing a couple of bad compressors. 1 gave erratic data and the other had a leaking relief valve. 3rd worked fine and has been for like 4 years now
When @swathdiver referred to my finding, I could not find the shocks current air pressure reading on my Tech 2 with a Dorman compressor. The rest of the communication with the Dorman compressor were fine. But, to me, that omission was relevant to the troubleshooting procedures. Kind of like, if you don't know where you are, how can you decide on where to go.
 

Doubeleive

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When @swathdiver referred to my finding, I could not find the shocks current air pressure reading on my Tech 2 with a Dorman compressor. The rest of the communication with the Dorman compressor were fine. But, to me, that omission was relevant to the troubleshooting procedures. Kind of like, if you don't know where you are, how can you decide on where to go.
weird I have the dorman and it shows the psi on the tech2View attachment 424964PSI.jpg
 
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Doubeleive

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It could possibly be limited to the specific Dorman compressor (defect?) that I bought, then, but I do not get that air pressure line in my Tech 2 readout.
might have something to do with the vehicle selection, you can try doing it with other years and see if it shows up then, mine is a 12
the worst that will happen is either it will error out or say unable to communicate. It doesn't hurt anything to probe with the tech2 with different years/vin selection
 

Joseph Garcia

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might have something to do with the vehicle selection, you can try doing it with other years and see if it shows up then, mine is a 12
the worst that will happen is either it will error out or say unable to communicate. It doesn't hurt anything to probe with the tech2 with different years/vin selection
Thank you for that suggestion. I'll try that the next time that I have my Tech 2 out.
 

petethepug

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You got your truck at a really good time. The TYF has such a huge knowledge base. It’s perfect combo of Pro’s, enthusiasts, perfectionist, detailers and owners loyal to its lineage.

Getting a compressor with thermal / overload protection and a lifetime guarantee ensures potential leaky rear shocks won’t cost you a dime down the road. Having GM and many others offer lifetime guarantees with substantially lower parts prices makes this chassis a winner.
 

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