Fuel Injection Cleaning Kit?

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Mudsport96

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Good thought... I do have a scan tool but the engine is quite modified (injectors, all custom valvetrain, intake, etc). There's no baseline to assume a correct trim from.

Otherwise, both banks are equally trimmed.
Therein lies a problem in itself then. If you have a custom tune, and it was tuned with injectors that are not flowing properly... getting them fixed runs a possibility of the tune needing redone. So keep that in mind as well.
Not telling you not to clean them. But just putting out there that if you have driveability issues after it could be the better flowing injectors.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Therein lies a problem in itself then. If you have a custom tune, and it was tuned with injectors that are not flowing properly... getting them fixed runs a possibility of the tune needing redone. So keep that in mind as well.
Not telling you not to clean them. But just putting out there that if you have driveability issues after it could be the better flowing injectors.
Thanks, the tuner got REALLY close but the characterization we thought would work for the injectors was off by a few lb/hr. This sent me down a rabbit hole about cleaning them. Someday when I find the energy I'll do it and likely need to have the tune revisited as you mentioned.

The tool I bought to clean them with an air compressor was dismally bad quality. I had to return it. It leaked fuel cleaner everywhere... I'd really like one of those that works though. It's a great idea as could use it elsewhere in the garage (basically a reusable aerosol can).

I'm currently running injector cleaner through the tank... However, I've learned you only really want to do that a tank or two BEFORE your oil change. It seems to have a tendency to make the oil dirty. I'm thinking maybe a side effect strong injector cleaner with meaningful amount of PEA (a solvent that doesn't flash off during combustion) is dirty oil. I some of that solvent may slides past the rings.
 
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Marky Dissod

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... maybe a side effect strong injector cleaner with meaningful amount of PEA (a solvent that doesn't flash off during combustion) is dirty oil.
I some of that solvent may slides past the rings.
If any PEA gets past the rings, it may help loosen some of the carbon on the piston, but ultimately it'll get burned, same as the fuel with fuel injector cleaner in it.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Im trying to remember your build. Did you go with a different intake? Or do you have the original style with the return fuel line to the tank?
These are notes from my build:


How are you monitoring or managing AFR then?
Using the OS from the P01 controller (stock routine) essentially just a different calibration. I verify using a wideband 02 on driver side bank. The current trims are good... There's just an offset in the injector flow rate we put in to counter an unknown.

If any PEA gets past the rings, it may help loosen some of the carbon on the piston, but ultimately it'll get burned, same as the fuel with fuel injector cleaner in it.
That's would be nice! It maybe me being overly cautious. I think I'll do another "adult dose" in the tank about 500 miles before my next oil change that way I've purged it all out by the time I change the oil... just to be safe.
 

Mudsport96

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Get a nonaerosol sprayer. The output is 1/8 inch pipe thread, so you need a coupling and corresponding threaded barb fitting. A length of hose and the correct fitting to hook to the fuel supply fitting of the fuel rail. At the chevy dealer we used soft jaw vice grips to pinch the return hose shut to prevent return flow. Set your compressor to 50ish psi and charge the can. And just hold the chuck on the can to maintain "fuel pressure" till the can is empty.
1000023643.jpg
 

OR VietVet

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Get a nonaerosol sprayer. The output is 1/8 inch pipe thread, so you need a coupling and corresponding threaded barb fitting. A length of hose and the correct fitting to hook to the fuel supply fitting of the fuel rail. At the chevy dealer we used soft jaw vice grips to pinch the return hose shut to prevent return flow. Set your compressor to 50ish psi and charge the can. And just hold the chuck on the can to maintain "fuel pressure" till the can is empty.
View attachment 481740
Yea, in the shops I was in, every tech had one of these. Shop supplied.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Get a nonaerosol sprayer. The output is 1/8 inch pipe thread, so you need a coupling and corresponding threaded barb fitting. A length of hose and the correct fitting to hook to the fuel supply fitting of the fuel rail. At the chevy dealer we used soft jaw vice grips to pinch the return hose shut to prevent return flow. Set your compressor to 50ish psi and charge the can. And just hold the chuck on the can to maintain "fuel pressure" till the can is empty.
View attachment 481740
I like this! Great idea... Thanks! I will pick one up next time I am at the harbor freight.
 

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