Front CV-Axle Replacement Question

[EddieC]

Continuing previously posted thread regarding front CV axle (grease leak) replacement as it was not quite done.

Question is regarding replacing 2008 4wd Tahoe, Z-71 front cv axles.
There seem to be differing videos regarding replacing them regarding what, if any, nearby parts need removing to change the axles.
The information seen ranges from just removing the bolts at the junction of the stubs at the differential case plus the spindle nut, to another removing the struts and others showing taking apart suspension parts.

Hopefully looking to get first hand accounts on what is really needed.

Thanks.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

There was a thread in the past few days that covered your question in detail, and the folks who posted had actually done the work firsthand. One takeaway was that the type of suspension trim dictated how many components needed to be removed to get the CV axle out.

 

[Doubeleive]

best approach is to probably go his route
have a spare jack handy
1. remove the outer axle bolt (wheels on the ground), crack lugs loose if you do not have a impact
2 jack up the front so both wheels are off the ground, remove wheel
3. unbolt both sway bar end links and let the sway bar hang down from D bushings
4. unbolt brake caliper (optional)
5. remove rotor (optional)
6. remove inner axle bolts
wiggle axle out, it should pivot down and out from the knuckle once the outer threaded shaft has moved enough.
if it won't move much, use the spare jack to lift the knuckle a little bit. if the knuckle needs to drop more or move more easily unbolt the 2 lower strut bolts
if that is still not enough wiggle room you can loosen the 3 upper strut bolts and this will allow you to move the strut around enough for more room
**removing the sway bar end links and 2 lower strut bolts effectively allows the control arms to move up/down with no force on them at all.

install is the reverse, but I would tighten the outer axle bolt up as much as possible first before putting wheels back on the ground, then do a final torque on the outer axle bolt with wheels on the ground.

overall it is easy to do just a process, if your end links are worn now is a good time to install new ones

 

[mikez71]

How come brake caliper and rotor need to be removed?

Could be the z71 strut is too long to loosen, (for sure if you have a spacer).
In that case you will need to pop the upper balljoint from knuckle, to lower suspension further.

 

[Doubeleive]

How come brake caliper and rotor need to be removed?

Could be the z71 strut is too long to loosen, (for sure if you have a spacer).
In that case you will need to pop the upper balljoint from knuckle, to lower suspension further.

i guess they don't really need to be if all you are doing is the axle but sure does make more room to work if it won't come out easily.
I think I have just been in the habit of doing brakes too much lol
when I rebuilt the front end last year I had to pull the axles out to do the lower control arm, so just habit I guess of having the brake out of the way
same if you have to change the hub the axle has to come out, brake have to come off also

 

[Doubeleive]

might even need to remove the tie rod in order to pivot the knuckle if needed. just depends on how much it is fighting you.
the tie rods are generally pretty easy take the nut off and then just smack it with a hammer and it should pop right out.

 

[EddieC]

Thanks for the input.
Looking at the struts today it seems they run pretty good interference with the axles but now I have an idea what to expect.
It looks like GM cv axles are at a tolerable price on RA. Aftermarket brand feedback doesn't give me confidence.

 

[alvocado]

I did this 6 mos. ago on 4wd Yukon. I tried with the strut in place and there is not enough room and I had to pull the strut assembly. I did not remove the tie rod but did remove the sway bar link.

Always replace the axle nut - it's one time use.

 

[EddieC]

To update, I did the driver's side axle and I needed to remove the sway bar link, the tie rod end connection to the steering knuckle and all but one fastener on the shock/spring assembly to allow it to rock out of the way.
Go Rock Auto for providing oem GM axle.
I don't want to revisit the job so aftermarket savings didn't appeal.