donjetman
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I have 3 that I've been afraid to attack for 6+ yrs. He makes it look easy.
Eric O-Exhaust Manifold Bolt Removal
- Thread starter donjetman
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LOL, he's going in hardcore with that torch. Recently had to pull off the manifolds on a 2003 Hummer that had been on for 22 years. Used one of those small butane pencil torches.... Doesn't take too much to take care of the factory loctite..... Then with a small ball peen hammer I would tap each one lightly about 15 or 20 times after spraying it with penetrating oil. Only had two or three that I had to rotate back and forth left and right a couple times. Other than that they all came out nicely. But .... It had never lived in the rust belt. I imagine for a shop considering the time factor, the big torch would speed things up quite a bit.... Just seems a bit risky to me.
I do have a nice drill guide that bolts onto the head, and a set of reverse drills. So far they're still sitting unused.
I do have a nice drill guide that bolts onto the head, and a set of reverse drills. So far they're still sitting unused.
I like that guys vids.
I have 3 i need to tackle in the spring. Not looking forward to it
strutaeng
Full Access Member
I had 2 broken on my 06 Suburban. I was ready with my welder. I had removed them on engines on engine stand before by welding a nut, but never on an engine inside the vehicle.
When I removed the exhaust manifold, there was plenty of threads so I was able to just unscrew them with vice grips. I bought some Summit Racing bolts that kinda looked like ARP stuff. I think they were like $25.
When I removed the exhaust manifold, there was plenty of threads so I was able to just unscrew them with vice grips. I bought some Summit Racing bolts that kinda looked like ARP stuff. I think they were like $25.
I really miss being in a shop where I had access to the "hot wrench" and a bigger compressor than a 3 gallon tank. Have to be cognizant of the neighbors. With no rust here, the "hot wrench" not being available is really not that big a deal and the small compressor works for cleaning/blowing stuff out. I have the Milwaukee Tool battery stuff and that works fine. There has been a couple times an air chisel vibrator or cutting bit would have been nice but I worked around it.
IMO, the video guy got real lucky with the small amount of rust he encountered.
I have clamps on 3 corners of the engine and no leaks/noises but when the time comes, I will prep for 2-3 weeks in advance with Aero Kroil on all the nuts/bolts.
IMO, the video guy got real lucky with the small amount of rust he encountered.
I have clamps on 3 corners of the engine and no leaks/noises but when the time comes, I will prep for 2-3 weeks in advance with Aero Kroil on all the nuts/bolts.
OP
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donjetman
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I have 3 bridge clamps on mine too. I should leave well enough alone.
petethepug
Michael
Did GM really use thread locker on steel bolts into an aluminum head or was he just kid’n?
The ones in my 2012 didn't have any thread locker on them from the factory. They all came out easily, thankfully.
opfor2
Full Access Member
Would Anti-seize not help if the bolts were to be removed again or does it just burn off?
Stainless steel studs with flanged lock nuts is what I use. Then going forward, if you ever go back into it, you don't have to risk unscrewing anything from the head and possibly pulling the threads out with it due to corrosion.
strutaeng
Full Access Member
I've been using the copper anti-seize on exhaust flanges (and exhaust manifolds to heads) for the last few years on my 06 Suburban.
I've had to remove the flanges at least twice within that timeframe. I couldn't really tell if the anti-seize did anything because they were pretty tight on there. I haven't broken one of those bolts, so I guess that's good? I figured, it certainly wouldn't hurt... IDK honestly...and I bought the largest of those containers, so I gotta use it when the time comes, lol.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
The two broken bolts in my 2014 5.3 came out with just vice grips. I thought they were going to be rusted in place, but it was probably due to the inverse-luck rule, since that engine was already out of the vehicle.
If I had attempted the same removal with the engine still bolted into the vehicle, I'm sure I would have discovered that the broken bolts somehow fused to he heads at the atomic level.
If I had attempted the same removal with the engine still bolted into the vehicle, I'm sure I would have discovered that the broken bolts somehow fused to he heads at the atomic level.
I use anti seize on all exhaust stuff. I don't believe it's effected by high Temps.
I recently installed some Ti header studs on my ls3 car and I used a good amount. I am not drilling out Ti if I don't have to lol.
If anti seize had problems with heat, it would not have been recommended for years to be put on spark plug threads.
I'm not sure if there's a difference between plain old anti-seize and high temp anti-seize, but the latter is labeled and marketed as such.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
The grease that binds the metallic (or non-metallic) anti-friction components resists higher temps, and won't liquefy or flash off.
strutaeng
Full Access Member
Interesting. I looked up the temperature ratings on the Permatex website:
Regular copper anti-seize says it's good for 1800F: https://www.permatex.com/products/l...ts/permatex-copper-anti-seize-lubricant-8-oz/
There's another product that's nickel and that one says it's good for 2400F. https://www.permatex.com/products/l...ts/permatex-nickel-anti-seize-lubricant-5-oz/
There like a dozen of different products on their website and I'm sure there's other similar products from other manufacturers out there...
Regular copper anti-seize says it's good for 1800F: https://www.permatex.com/products/l...ts/permatex-copper-anti-seize-lubricant-8-oz/
There's another product that's nickel and that one says it's good for 2400F. https://www.permatex.com/products/l...ts/permatex-nickel-anti-seize-lubricant-5-oz/
There like a dozen of different products on their website and I'm sure there's other similar products from other manufacturers out there...
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