Engine replacement labor costs
- Thread starter bobeque1
- Start date
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Welcome to the forum from Virginia. @iamdub and/or @swathdiver may know.
Welcome to your first post from Oregon.
The cost will be determined by the quality of the work, the labor rate at that shop, the qualifications of the tech(s), what else is done while having the engine out......etc. When engine is out, it is perfect time for add ons. Motor mounts, hoses, radiator, transmission work....etc.
The cost will be determined by the quality of the work, the labor rate at that shop, the qualifications of the tech(s), what else is done while having the engine out......etc. When engine is out, it is perfect time for add ons. Motor mounts, hoses, radiator, transmission work....etc.
Generally, anywhere from 2-4k, depending.......on where and what
you don't really provide many details to work with
iamdub
Full Access Member
About the best we can do based on this is for someone with Alldata to look it up and see what the engine R/R time is. Then, you would have to determine your shop's hourly rate. Multiply that by the time Alldata gave and that'd be your estimate. There is so much else you could/should do during this so your best bet is to discuss it with the shop(s) directly.
Here is the book shop time. You're looking at 15-20 hours, depending on how complete the replacement engine is, optional equipment, etc etc. At $150/hr. (high average), you're looking at $2250-$3000 PLUS shop supplies, tax, unavoidable broken bolt extractions, what not.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Sheeeeiiiiitttt...
I'd pull the old one and replace all the seals in the replacement engine (all labor for provided parts) before dropping it in for $1,800. Drop it off Friday and you'll be driving it to work Monday morning. Pictorial documentation of all critical steps- TTY values, cover and seal alignments, internal findings, etc. would be included.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
I bet Randy could do it in 2 hours! @randeez A man with such talents would be deserving of the entire rate or nearly so!
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
shit, I'm with @iamdub, and I hate working on this shit 
, but damnit for $1800 I would do it.
I'll even include the labor of replacing the torque converter and the pump seal (if 6 speed since it's easy) in that price.
, but damnit for $1800 I would do it.I'll even include the labor of replacing the torque converter and the pump seal (if 6 speed since it's easy) in that price.
Chancefort87
TYF Newbie
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I got hit with a 10k quote to replace a 09 yukon xl denali engine. In northeast Oklahoma couple days ago
$1800 is cheap. The hours for that sounds like my labor rate at home of $100. For a shop, likely charging $150 to $200, that $1800 is cheap. Better get a list of what will be done for that price.shit, I'm with @iamdub, and I hate working on this shit
I'll even include the labor of replacing the torque converter and the pump seal (if 6 speed since it's easy) in that price.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Mine was labor only to install provided engine with all new seals and fluids. I just figured two 12-hour days at $75/hour. Remove the engine, replace all the seals on the replacement engine and install it. Top off all fluids, etc. (provided by customer) and have it 100% ready to return to service. As for replacing the other stuff that should be done while it's out, that can all be negotiated. A few would be freebies, such as engine mounts, torque converter and input shaft seal and O-ring- quick and easy things like that.
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Back in 2012, I paid $6500 (parts and labor) for a GM reman with a 100,000 mile warranty in our 2007 Denali. With inflation the way it’s been, $10K doesn’t seem too far out of line, but still it’s enough to give a guy pause.
You are gonna charge what you think is fair to you and the customer. With my labor of $100 an hour, I am gonna estimate between 24 to 30 hours. If I get done way quicker, I will adjust accordingly but if close, I stick to my estimate. After all, I paid good money to have the tools to do the job and I am saving the customer between $50 to $100 an hour and have the same qualifications.
petethepug
Michael
Welcome bobeque1 from soak’n wet SoCal. Any backstory on needing to replace the motor? 2 or 4WD? It’s a bummer to lay out the dough, but the opportunity to install a motor without AFM on a last year, Gen 4 Tahoe is the making of a 200k+ mile truck.
These GM motors are so stout that reasonable replacement options range from preloved, non AFM 6.2L from 07-09 SUV + 07-13 trucks or the 11-13 2500 / 3500 trucks non AFM 6.0L. All are bolt in. The 6.0L runs on Reg & e85.
If you had an Indi tech source a preloved 6.0L or 6.2L you could spend the savings on those motor mounts, torque conv, rear main seal, pan gasket and all those parts that last 100k mi like when the truck was new. Avoid labor, try to make this a pull out, drop in scenario. It’s in the equation, if an Indi does the job using a preloved motor, it’ll actually increase the value of the truck equivalent to the 4-$6k you’d invest doing it.
These GM motors are so stout that reasonable replacement options range from preloved, non AFM 6.2L from 07-09 SUV + 07-13 trucks or the 11-13 2500 / 3500 trucks non AFM 6.0L. All are bolt in. The 6.0L runs on Reg & e85.
If you had an Indi tech source a preloved 6.0L or 6.2L you could spend the savings on those motor mounts, torque conv, rear main seal, pan gasket and all those parts that last 100k mi like when the truck was new. Avoid labor, try to make this a pull out, drop in scenario. It’s in the equation, if an Indi does the job using a preloved motor, it’ll actually increase the value of the truck equivalent to the 4-$6k you’d invest doing it.
iamdub
Full Access Member
1. I often don't value myself enough. With bigger side hustles over the weekend (auto mechanics or not), I aim for $1K a day. I'll take $900/day playing in my own shop doing something fairly routine.
2. This sort of job is kinda fun and I have a 2-post lift and chainfall that make it all a one-man affair. Plus I've done it a few times and have some methods to make it flow. Hell, I even have markings on the floor outlining the balance points of a Tahoe with and without an engine.
3. All that's needed tool-wise are full ratchet and wrench sets, some impact sockets, torque wrenches, protractor, 3-jaw puller, metric ruler, some screwdrivers (mostly as small pry tools), some Torx drivers and a bungee cord.
I'm not saying your quote is high and you're saying my quote is low. I'm agreeing.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
I'll be over this weekend then! LOL1. I often don't value myself enough. With bigger side hustles over the weekend (auto mechanics or not), I aim for $1K a day. I'll take $900/day playing in my own shop doing something fairly routine.
2. This sort of job is kinda fun and I have a 2-post lift and chainfall that make it all a one-man affair. Plus I've done it a few times and have some methods to make it flow. Hell, I even have markings on the floor outlining the balance points of a Tahoe with and without an engine.
3. All that's needed tool-wise are full ratchet and wrench sets, some impact sockets, torque wrenches, protractor, 3-jaw puller, metric ruler, some screwdrivers (mostly as small pry tools), some Torx drivers and a bungee cord.
I'm not saying your quote is high and you're saying my quote is low. I'm agreeing.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Yes, but that glorious 6.2 L9H is worth every penny and then some!
That's what I was quoted as well.
