engine cover removal

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Doubeleive

Wes
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I like keeping everything clean...... it shows me something needs attention if something is dirty.
yep that's why I pressure wash the engine comparmtment and underbody about every 6-9 months, that way if there is any leaks I will spot them right away
and I get under it and give it a visual inspection usually about once a month or so, spots in the driveway are a dead giveaway
leaks are my pet peeve
 
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John Chapman

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I just did this on a 6.0 2006. Unsnap the hoses and move as needed but be careful of the quick connects at the firewall. Remove the oil fill cap so it does not snag. Remove the snorkel tube from the air filter box to the throttle body and make sure to unplug the MAF. There is a screw at the back area above the coils that takes a 7mm or 8mm and one at the front that was covered by the snorkel. Both will have indentations in the plastic, where the screw heads are. Both of those screws thread in to the bracket that holds the coils. It will come off over the oil fill tube. If you are also removing the bracket, best to remove plug wire at #8 coil and unplug coil and unbolt coil and remove, use a 10mm socket for that. That will give you ample access for unbolting the coil rack at that end. You can then remove the valve cover with the oil fill tube attached. When oil fill tube is installed, it has a spring tab that locks it. You can get lucky and turn against the tab and it will release but usually it breaks. Best to remove the oil fill tube when can get at that tab with valve cover removed and flipped over. When you reinstall the #8 coil, just set in the rack. Enough of the coil sets down in the hole for the coil to hold it in place at the angle it sits. Reinstall the mounting 10mm bolts and snap the plug wire and coil connector back in place. Snaking in the plastic cover is a PITA but is doable easy enough. Those heaater hoses cause the clearance problems.

By the way, perfect time to do a MAF cleaning.
Thanks for the rundown!
 

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