Don't always trust your mechanic, fixed my "blown" engine for $7.

[73TA]

Initially I was not going say a thing to here about the easy fix. And I think I will keep it that way. As stated previously in this thread "let dead dogs lie" in probably the best course.

Not sure why the shop did not at least run codes on it, or at least make a small effort into checking to see if there was major engine problem or not. The engine appeared to have never been cleaned, this also pointed to me that the valve covers had never been off at least in recent times.

I agree that the engine probably is not "fine" with 234K miles on it. However, it currently runs excellent, idles smooth, does not appear to have any leaks, and no smoke at startup. Still need to install the #8 plug also.

The Esky will not be a daily driver, basically my wife's ride. Really can't see it getting more than 4K miles a year. If I can get it to 250K miles without having to tear the engine down, I consider that a win.

I feel that the engine probably needs to be de-carboned via Seafoam for starters. If there a better way to do this, please let me know. I plan on checking the #6 plug after the road trip this weekend.

Adding the catch can and the oil cleanup of the intake manifold as aimdub stated would also be on the list. I will also change the plug wires also. Hoping the oil pressure sensor arrives today. First priority is fix the problems that are triggering the four lights on the dash. Will upload pics tonight.


Thanks for everyone's feedback and comments.

Mike

 

[BlaineBug]

I bet it'll be fine for more than 4,000. Slightly heavier weight oil and seafoam in the fuel is the name of the game.

 

[89Suburban]

I bet it'll be fine for more than 4,000. Slightly heavier weight oil and seafoam in the fuel is the name of the game.

Heavier oil weight? Please explain. I have over 300K and still use the 5W30. Is this hurting me in the long run?

 

[OR VietVet]

Heavier oil weight? Please explain. I have over 300K and still use the 5W30. Is this hurting me in the long run?

It used to be a rule of thumb thing to add heavier weight oil with an older higher mileage engine. That is no more. Stick with what is called for and that will allow the better oil pressure and lubricating. Engines are different now and wear differently inside them. The oils are better as well.

 

[donjetman]

Mike/73TA:

2 yrs ago I bought a used 07 Denali 6.2 w/132k miles with unknown mx. It was burning a lot of oil. My plugs all looked like yours.

I did GM TSB# 10-60-01-008M, and installed the new improved valve cover. It immediately stopped using oil. Now 2 yr & 34K miles later, at 164k miles, it still doesn't use any oil. I used Gunk Motor Medic instead of the GM solvent listed in the TSB.

Here are some threads I did that may help you.

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63...il+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/sparkies-no-beno.108579/

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/valve-cover-change-cleanup.108604/

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Heavier oil weight? Please explain. I have over 300K and still use the 5W30. Is this hurting me in the long run?

No, heavier oil can have a harder time seaping through old gaskets and such but its not really a thing anymore.

 

[pwtr02ss]

I’d do an upper engine clean, it prob has a stuck ring. Then do updates valve cover or at least buy a new one. Very common problem

 

[iamdub]

I feel that the engine probably needs to be de-carboned via Seafoam for starters. If there a better way to do this, please let me know. I plan on checking the #6 plug after the road trip this weekend.

Mike/73TA:

2 yrs ago I bought a used 07 Denali 6.2 w/132k miles with unknown mx. It was burning a lot of oil. My plugs all looked like yours.

I did GM TSB# 10-60-01-008M, and installed the new improved valve cover. It immediately stopped using oil. Now 2 yr & 34K miles later, at 164k miles, it still doesn't use any oil. I used Gunk Motor Medic instead of the GM solvent listed in the TSB.

Here are some threads I did that may help you.

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63/cec66346-04c1-48e0-98a6-74c35af2c84e_2014+Engine+-+Oil+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/sparkies-no-beno.108579/

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/valve-cover-change-cleanup.108604/

Don beat me to it. I concur with him. De-carbon with either the GM stuff or Motor Medic, following the guidelines in the TSB. You may have to repeat it.

 

[BlaineBug]

I’d do an upper engine clean, it prob has a stuck ring. Then do updates valve cover or at least buy a new one. Very common problem

I mentioned heavier weight oil in the event that the plug fouling was caused by leaky rings.

 

[73TA]

Don, thanks for the great info on the oil burning fixes for these engines. The TSB is referring to the AFM engines I don't believe that my 08 has according my research, and it doesn't switch over to 4 cylinder mode liked my 2013 5.3 does when I drive it. I see all your plugs looked like my one "dead" one, amazing it even ran.

Found this on the Cadillac forum, I assume it is accurate.

1) All model year 2007 Escalades built prior to 4/1/2006 were built with engines that have all the internal AFM / DOD hardware inside. But the ECM is programmed not to use it, and therefore they run on 8 cylinders all the time.

2) All Model year 2007 Escalades built on or after 4/1/2006 are built with engines that do not have the internal AFM / DOD hardware. This applies to all 2008 and 2009 Escalades as well.

3) All Model year 2010 and up Escalades are built with fully functioning AFM / DOD.


Do I still need to change the valve cover if I don't have AFM?
Should I still desludge or "decarbon" with Gunk Motor Medic my engine?

Thanks
Mike

 

[donjetman]

Don, thanks for the great info on the oil burning fixes for these engines. The TSB is referring to the AFM engines I don't believe that my 08 has according my research, and it doesn't switch over to 4 cylinder mode liked my 2013 5.3 does when I drive it. I see all your plugs looked like my one "dead" one, amazing it even ran.

Do I still need to change the valve cover if I don't have AFM?
Should I still desludge or "decarbon" with Gunk Motor Medic my engine?

Thanks
Mike

My 07 6.2 Denali with L92 didn't have AFM but It needed this TSB and a lot more.

I did the deflector($7), oil pickup o-ring($5), 2 day long cylinder soak w/Motor Medic($5), cleaned the spark plugs and put them back in. They are still in the engine 30+k miles later. The Motor Medic freed up the rings and cleaned the carbon out of the cylinders.

Without the improved valve cover it would keep sucking oil into the intake, into the cylinders, sticking the rings again, and leaving carbon deposits everywhere.

I also changed the engine rear main seal, oil pan gasket, new torque converter, external tranny gaskets/orings while I was at it.

2 yrs and 32+k miles later it is still dry as a bone, doesn't consume any oil, and the catch can I installed doesn't catch any measurable amount of oil.

Here's a couple of more threads I did 2 yrs ago when doing all this work:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/posts/1437459/

 

[gooffeyguy]

If your motor is flex fuel, running a few tanks of E85 will clean the carbon out of the combustion chambers.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[kbuskill]

Don beat me to it. I concur with him. De-carbon with either the GM stuff or Motor Medic, following the guidelines in the TSB. You may have to repeat it.

I have considered doing the piston soak with Kreen.... just never have gotten around to it.

I would probably prefer doing it at the same time as an oil change just in case any of it gets past the rings.

 

[91RS]

Don, thanks for the great info on the oil burning fixes for these engines. The TSB is referring to the AFM engines I don't believe that my 08 has according my research, and it doesn't switch over to 4 cylinder mode liked my 2013 5.3 does when I drive it. I see all your plugs looked like my one "dead" one, amazing it even ran.

Found this on the Cadillac forum, I assume it is accurate.

1) All model year 2007 Escalades built prior to 4/1/2006 were built with engines that have all the internal AFM / DOD hardware inside. But the ECM is programmed not to use it, and therefore they run on 8 cylinders all the time.

2) All Model year 2007 Escalades built on or after 4/1/2006 are built with engines that do not have the internal AFM / DOD hardware. This applies to all 2008 and 2009 Escalades as well.

3) All Model year 2010 and up Escalades are built with fully functioning AFM / DOD.


Do I still need to change the valve cover if I don't have AFM?
Should I still desludge or "decarbon" with Gunk Motor Medic my engine?

Thanks
Mike

The new valve cover applies to the GMT-800 trucks as well.

 

[Geotrash]

Do I still need to change the valve cover if I don't have AFM?
Should I still desludge or "decarbon" with Gunk Motor Medic my engine?

Yes. The valve cover fix is for the PCV system, which isn't part of the AFM system. And you're right, your engine does not have AFM.

With the original valve cover design, the baffle design was insufficient to keep significant oil from being sucked into the intake manifold via the PCV valve on the valve cover. A newer design supersedes the old one and solves the problem, for the most part.

 

[iamdub]

Don, thanks for the great info on the oil burning fixes for these engines. The TSB is referring to the AFM engines I don't believe that my 08 has according my research, and it doesn't switch over to 4 cylinder mode liked my 2013 5.3 does when I drive it. I see all your plugs looked like my one "dead" one, amazing it even ran.

Found this on the Cadillac forum, I assume it is accurate.

1) All model year 2007 Escalades built prior to 4/1/2006 were built with engines that have all the internal AFM / DOD hardware inside. But the ECM is programmed not to use it, and therefore they run on 8 cylinders all the time.

2) All Model year 2007 Escalades built on or after 4/1/2006 are built with engines that do not have the internal AFM / DOD hardware. This applies to all 2008 and 2009 Escalades as well.

3) All Model year 2010 and up Escalades are built with fully functioning AFM / DOD.


Do I still need to change the valve cover if I don't have AFM?
Should I still desludge or "decarbon" with Gunk Motor Medic my engine?

Thanks
Mike

Correct. Yours doesn't have AFM. But, carbonizing and sticking rings isn't an AFM issue. It's an issue due to the PCV design (which all engines have) and the engines with AFM exacerbate it due to the pressure relief valve.

 

[edward case]

No woman or man has business owning a 200k mile luxury vehicle unless they have deep pockets or mechanical skills.

 

[Geotrash]

No woman or man has business owning a 200k mile luxury vehicle unless they have deep pockets or mechanical skills.

Yup. That’s what allows us who do our own wrenching here to enjoy such fantastic vehicles for pennies on the dollar, with good reliability.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[BlaineBug]

No woman or man has business owning a 200k mile luxury vehicle unless they have deep pockets or mechanical skills.

I can't agree more but no one considers a base Tahoe to be "luxury" even though it is identical in nearly every way mechanically to the Escalade. Same thing. Things wear out and need attention.

 

[73TA]

Thanks for all the great info on controlling the oil consumption issues with the LS motors. I will be doing the upgrades.

Getting back to the statement "No woman or man has business owning a 200k mile luxury vehicle unless they have deep pockets or mechanical skills." I have been all my own repairs/maintenance on my vehicles since I was 16 years old, I am now 60. This started because I really did not want to spend the money to pay someone, and I also decided that my time would be better spent doing my own repair instead of watching TV (actually I do have a TV in my garage). I also have trust issues with any type of service business.

By saving money on own repairs, it affords me to buy other "toys".

Example: Last year I pickup a 2004 AMG SL55 from a local used car dealer for $8000 with 88K miles. If you are not familiar with these cars, they have a supercharged 493HP 5.4 liter engine. I always wanted one, just did not want spend the $20k on "document" service history one. He claims that it is what he paid for it on trade. He had it listed for $13,000. A friend of mine told about because was interested in buying it. He knew the owner of the lot. The lot owner was honest about the details of the vehicles history. Local trade, a couple of things did not work, (power top, rear windows) his "mercedes" mechanic said that it needed to go to the dealer for repairs. I did my own research and found out that there is a seperate battery in the trunk that controls these items. Bought it, replaced the battery, everything works. Still need to chase down a battery drain for that kills the battery in about two days.

Anyway, getting back to working on this vehicle platform. The nice thing about repairing these vehicles is that even repairing these vehicles with AC Delco (even though I do have a parts Tahoe) parts through Amazon is dirt cheap. My Esky seemed to have all the usual problems.

1. Oil Pressure Sensor, AC Delco - Amazon $20, stealership $83.
2. Brake Switch AC Delco - Amazon about $15.
3. Front impact Sensor - This part was from my parts Tahoe (AC Delco $168 from GM Parts Direct) Aftermarket about $60.
4. Driver's Door Latch Assembly - This part was from my parts Tahoe - Aftermarket $40.

As soon as the oil pressure sensor arrives (supposed to arrive today), I am hoping that the stabiltrac, abs, and check engine light go out.

Bottom line is that these are fairly easy parts to replace and quality replacements parts are pretty damn cheap OEM or aftermarket.

I even got a new aftermarket chrome hood trim piece that looked nice, except that is the box and item was damaged in shipping for $55 from Amazon. I ordered another one, will let you know how it fits.

More to follow.


Mike