doing a z55 refresh

[HACK BLOCK]

2011 Yukon Denali 145k

Other than changing the front and rear shocks/struts, what else is recommended I change out also?

I'm not talking about tie-rods, ball joints etc. I'm doing that at a later date...

 

[George B]

Check the compressor operation.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

the compressor runs and is quiet so im leaving it

 

[Geotrash]

the compressor runs and is quiet so im leaving it

Are you sure your fronts need doing? I have 229K on what I believe are the originals on my 2007 and 132K on what I know are the originals on my 2012, and they’re still doing great. The rears need it more often because the air bags wear out, but the fronts seem to last forever.

If you do the front, are you replacing the whole strut assembly or just the shock portion?

Definitely check the wheel bearings for play while you’re in there.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

Are you sure your fronts need doing? I have 229K on what I believe are the originals on my 2007 and 132K on what I know are the originals on my 2012, and they’re still doing great. The rears need it more often because the air bags wear out, but the fronts seem to last forever.

If you do the front, are you replacing the whole strut assembly or just the shock portion?

Definitely check the wheel bearings for play while you’re in there.

I'm not sure if the fronts are bad or not but my wife and I decided we're going to keep this till the wheels fall off so doesn't make sense to me to eventually do a full suspension refresh and leave the old fronts. I was able to find some deals and got all 4 corners for $700, all AC Delco.

i was just gonna change the shocks but didn't know if i should also get new springs or insulators or any other rubber pieces that would be a pain to do later on

 

[Geotrash]

I'm not sure if the fronts are bad or not but my wife and I decided we're going to keep this till the wheels fall off so doesn't make sense to me to eventually do a full suspension refresh and leave the old fronts. I was able to find some deals and got all 4 corners for $700, all AC Delco.

i was just gonna change the shocks but didn't know if i should also get new springs or insulators or any other rubber pieces that would be a pain to do later on

That's a killer deal. Most guys replace the whole strut assembly because compressing the springs could well be the last thing you ever do if the tool slips off or breaks. Definitely worth putting in new insulators as well. @89Suburban just did the shocks (kept his springs) on his a while back, and I'm sure can help with perspective there.

Are your ball joints or tie rod ends loose at all? If not, and it were my rig, I'd let that front end ride until there are signs that it needs attention. Just my 2c. I changed the control arms with ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and links 4 years ago on my 2007 with Moog parts, and the rubber boots on the ball joints are already cracking and close to tearing. The best money for the front end is in the sway bar bushings and links, in my opinion. Refresh those and it will feel like a brand new truck.

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

2011 Yukon Denali 145k

Other than changing the front and rear shocks/struts, what else is recommended I change out also?

I'm not talking about tie-rods, ball joints etc. I'm doing that at a later date...

That's a killer deal. Most guys replace the whole strut assembly because compressing the springs could well be the last thing you ever do if the tool slips off or breaks. Definitely worth putting in new insulators as well. @89Suburban just did the shocks (kept his springs) on his a while back, and I'm sure can help with perspective there.

Are your ball joints or tie rod ends loose at all? If not, and it were my rig, I'd let that front end ride until there are signs that it needs attention. Just my 2c. I changed the control arms with ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and links 4 years ago on my 2007 with Moog parts, and the rubber boots on the ball joints are already cracking and close to tearing. The best money for the front end is in the sway bar bushings and links, in my opinion. Refresh those and it will feel like a brand new truck.

Just went through this in December

+1 on Geo's answer

Would add Control Arm Bushings.....and every other bushing you can get to lol. But seriously, if you're going to split it up and do some of it later(what I did also); I recommend doing the sway/stabilizer bar end links and bushings, coil springs (definitely w/new insulators top/bottom), and bump stops at same time as your shocks/struts. Those are the more suspension related items, they'll make the biggest "feel" difference

 

[HACK BLOCK]

i got the sway bar links, not the bushings but I'll look into it

 

[petethepug]

Differential bracket bushings that come already pressed into a new bracket. Say buh bye to clunk when letting off gas on AWD/4WD from slow speeds.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

Differential bracket bushings that come already pressed into a new bracket. Say buh bye to clunk when letting off gas on AWD/4WD from slow speeds.

its 2 brackets? left and right? is it worth saving the 100 and pressing them in myself or would i need a special tool

 

[Geotrash]

its 2 brackets? left and right? is it worth saving the 100 and pressing them in myself or would i need a special tool

Yes, 2 brackets on the diff and the L & R are different. Can be done from below the truck with a little finagling and a long extension socket from above. Helps to have 2 people but I did mine on my 2007 solo. The diff mounting brackets are sold as assemblies.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

after watching a video on youtube im not doing all that

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As suggested above, if you plan to keep this truck until the wheels fall off, then you should change the upper and lower control arms on the front suspension while you are doing strut work. At that mileage, the bushings and ball joints have significant wear in them, and the ball joints come with the control arms as an assembly.

A year ago, I changed everything in the front suspension, including shocks, upper and lower control arms, and all of the components that make up the total strut assembly (except the strut housings themselves). In the rear, I changed the shocks and the springs.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

As suggested above, if you plan to keep this truck until the wheels fall off, than you should change the upper and lower control arms on the front suspension while you are doing strut work. At that mileage, the bushings and ball joints have significant wear in them, and the ball joints come with the control arms as an assembly.

A year ago, I changed everything in the front suspension, including shocks, upper and lower control arms, and all of the components that make up the total strut assembly (except the strut housings themselves). In the rear, I changed the shocks and the springs.

I will be changing the control arms just not right now

 

[petethepug]

The rubber bushings are usually rotted in place as they’re surrounded by metal and pressed into a metal bracket. Since it’s a pressed metal bracket unlike a control arm or tie rod that’s cast, the last guy with an AWD Esky who tried to press them out chewed them up pretty good. He replaced them again in 6 Mo as the bushings deflected and were allowed them to pinch / distort.

Yes, you can save a few bucks only buying the bushings but you be soaking them in kroil or wd40 for a day or two and must use a press or risk damaging the bracket. The bond between the bush and bracket is substantial enough that GM, Dorman & others found a market creating and selling the part with the bushings already inserted.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

The rubber bushings are usually rotted in place as they’re surrounded by metal and pressed into a metal bracket. Since it’s a pressed metal bracket unlike a control arm or tie rod that’s cast, the last guy with an AWD Esky who tried to press them out chewed them up pretty good. He replaced them again in 6 Mo as the bushings deflected and were allowed them to pinch / distort.

Yes, you can save a few bucks only buying the bushings but you be soaking them in kroil or wd40 for a day or two and must use a press or risk damaging the bracket. The bond between the bush and bracket is substantial enough that GM, Dorman & others found a market creating and selling the part with the bushings already inserted.

seems like too much work for my set-up at home.

 

[B-train]

I did the replacement bushings on a 2009 and it was a PITA and they are junk. Just buy a new GM assembly. Install isn't hard, just a floor jack and a couple hours time.

I also second the GM control arm assemblies. I tried pressing in lower ball joints on my 2007, it worked, but wasn't worth the headache. Since parts prices have become more reasonable for these now, I just do GM assemblies. I also second the new springs for the front, but without a professional, wall mounted, compressor you risk personal harm. Those things have A LOT of pressure on them when compressed. Then you have to wrestle all the pieces back together in the correct orientation.....did it for years, but won't anymore.

@Geotrash
Agrees with the life on the fronts. I sold my 2007 denali with 227k and still had original stuff. No lights, etc. I'd say if they are leaking oil, the ride height is low, or the ride is stiff, then replace them. Although, I will say that my 2017 denali rides like new again after the fronts were covered under warranty at 80k for oil leakage. It's a personal call I guess.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

I did the replacement bushings on a 2009 and it was a PITA and they are junk. Just buy a new GM assembly. Install isn't hard, just a floor jack and a couple hours time.

I also second the GM control arm assemblies. I tried pressing in lower ball joints on my 2007, it worked, but wasn't worth the headache. Since parts prices have become more reasonable for these now, I just do GM assemblies. I also second the new springs for the front, but without a professional, wall mounted, compressor you risk personal harm. Those things have A LOT of pressure on them when compressed. Then you have to wrestle all the pieces back together in the correct orientation.....did it for years, but won't anymore.

@Geotrash
Agrees with the life on the fronts. I sold my 2007 denali with 227k and still had original stuff. No lights, etc. I'd say if they are leaking oil, the ride height is low, or the ride is stiff, then replace them. Although, I will say that my 2017 denali rides like new again after the fronts were covered under warranty at 80k for oil leakage. It's a personal call I guess.

the spring removal was another question that crossed my mind. I'm guessing i should definitely get a spring compressor?

at first I was thinking of just clamping them down on both sides because that was what i used to do on my civic but if you're saying it's under an unusual amount of pressure then I'll rent the compressor.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

the spring removal was another question that crossed my mind. I'm guessing i should definitely get a spring compressor?

at first I was thinking of just clamping them down on both sides because that was what i used to do on my civic but if you're saying it's under an unusual amount of pressure then I'll rent the compressor.

If you are going to disassemble the struts yourself, make sure that you get the correct HEAVY duty spring compressor, possibly a rental from an auto parts supplier that rents tools. I used a standard (NOT heavy duty) spring compressor to disassemble my Honda's struts, but I would NEVER use that spring compressor to disassemble my truck's struts. Be safe, as it is your life that is at risk.

 

[George B]

Use this one.
https://a.co/d/7wFGiaQ