DOD FAILED. CAM THOUGHTS

[decembersend]

2010 GMC Yukon Denali 6.2 all stock

So like the title says the DOD failed. It lasted 165k so I say I got good mileage out of it.

I'm looking to keep the VVT delete the DOD keep low and torque (towing and heavy pig) and preferably gain HP up high. Everything is STOCK I will purchase HP tuners to delete the DOD (planned to buy it anyways for my Trailblazer LS swap 4.2L to 6.0). I would like to keep the stall stock for now because I do plan to turbo this thing at a later date and don't want to buy things twice. My hand is forced now to do this mod because this is my daily.

I been researching for the past couple of days on what brand to go with and everyone has varying opinions but a lot seem to like COMP CAMS. I gave them a call today to see what they would recommend and this is what they told me.

CAM
XFI RPM HI-LIFT 214/228 Hydraulic Roller Cam for GM LS GEN IV w/ VVT part #189-401-13

DOD Delete
5561-KIT

I have a couple of questions for those that have done this mod.

1. What CAM do guys recommend?

2. Do you think this is a good cam for my application?

3. Any one have experience with COMP CAMS DOD delete kit? A lot of thread I read people seem to like the kit from Texas Speed.

 

[swathdiver]

So like the title says the DOD failed. It lasted 165k so I say I got good mileage out of it.

I'm looking to keep the VVT delete the DOD keep low and torque (towing and heavy pig) and preferably gain HP up high. Everything is STOCK I will purchase HP tuners to delete the DOD (planned to buy it anyways for my Trailblazer LS swap 4.2L to 6.0). I would like to keep the stall stock for now because I do plan to turbo this thing at a later date and don't want to buy things twice. My hand is forced now to do this mod because this is my daily.

I been researching for the past couple of days on what brand to go with and everyone has varying opinions but a lot seem to like COMP CAMS. I gave them a call today to see what they would recommend and this is what they told me.

CAM
XFI RPM HI-LIFT 214/228 Hydraulic Roller Cam for GM LS GEN IV w/ VVT part #189-401-13

DOD Delete
5561-KIT

I have a couple of questions for those that have done this mod.

1. What CAM do guys recommend?

2. Do you think this is a good cam for my application?

3. Any one have experience with COMP CAMS DOD delete kit? A lot of thread I read people seem to like the kit from Texas Speed.

You cannot increase torque down low or even keep it and gain horsepower on high without losing driveability. Keep duration under 210 degrees for a street truck and to maintain low end torque.

I am assuming this is a 5.3 and not a 6.2.

 

[iamdub]

So like the title says the DOD failed. It lasted 165k so I say I got good mileage out of it.

I'm looking to keep the VVT delete the DOD keep low and torque (towing and heavy pig) and preferably gain HP up high. Everything is STOCK I will purchase HP tuners to delete the DOD (planned to buy it anyways for my Trailblazer LS swap 4.2L to 6.0). I would like to keep the stall stock for now because I do plan to turbo this thing at a later date and don't want to buy things twice. My hand is forced now to do this mod because this is my daily.

I been researching for the past couple of days on what brand to go with and everyone has varying opinions but a lot seem to like COMP CAMS. I gave them a call today to see what they would recommend and this is what they told me.

CAM
XFI RPM HI-LIFT 214/228 Hydraulic Roller Cam for GM LS GEN IV w/ VVT part #189-401-13

DOD Delete
5561-KIT

I have a couple of questions for those that have done this mod.

1. What CAM do guys recommend?

2. Do you think this is a good cam for my application?

3. Any one have experience with COMP CAMS DOD delete kit? A lot of thread I read people seem to like the kit from Texas Speed.

Unless there's some trickery involved with the VVT, I don't see how a 214/228 cam would be good in a 5.3 with a stock converter and not cost you towing power. They call it "high lift", but I'd hardly consider .559"/.571" to be "high lift". Like I said, maybe it's all in the magic of VVT.

I'm no expert by far, especially compared to COMP. Just get plenty of second opinions on that cam and others as they've been known to make rather aggressive suggestions. It might actually be a great choice and the VVT allows that much duration with little or no low-end loss.

 

[TollKeeper]

4.2 LL8 to a 6.0?? Thats s CR@P ton of work.. Good luck!

 

[decembersend]

Unless there's some trickery involved with the VVT, I don't see how a 214/228 cam would be good in a 5.3 with a stock converter and not cost you towing power. They call it "high lift", but I'd hardly consider .559"/.571" to be "high lift". Like I said, maybe it's all in the magic of VVT.

I'm no expert by far, especially compared to COMP. Just get plenty of second opinions on that cam and others as they've been known to make rather aggressive suggestions. It might actually be a great choice and the VVT allows that much duration with little or no low-end loss.

Sorry I guess I have to update my bio.

It’s a 2010 GMC Yukon Denali 6.2

 

[decembersend]

4.2 LL8 to a 6.0?? Thats s CR@P ton of work.. Good luck!

Yes it is, every inch of wiring, new trans mount, new diff, relocate abs pump etc it goes on and on lol. And thank you

 

[TollKeeper]

Yes it is, every inch of wiring, new trans mount, new diff, relocate abs pump etc it goes on and on lol. And thank you

Owning the same product line (GMT360) myself. On the forum for that truck, we had all came to the conclusion it was simpler to buy a wrecked/vandalized V8, and swap over a body!

 

[George B]

Yes it is, every inch of wiring, new trans mount, new diff, relocate abs pump etc it goes on and on lol. And thank you

So you look for trailblazer ss parts then?

 

[decembersend]

Owning the same product line (GMT360) myself. On the forum for that truck, we had all came to the conclusion it was simpler to buy a wrecked/vandalized V8, and swap over a body!

I thought I recognized your user name. I use to be on TV and now GMT but I haven’t posted in forever.

Yea it def would’ve been easier but sadly I could never find one when I had the funds so little by little I’ve been working on it.

 

[decembersend]

So you look for trailblazer ss parts then?

I believe I have everything I need. I’ve been working on the wiring for quite some time now but haven’t put much effort into it lately

 

[decembersend]

You cannot increase torque down low or even keep it and gain horsepower on high without losing driveability. Keep duration under 210 degrees for a street truck and to maintain low end torque.

I am assuming this is a 5.3 and not a 6.2.

It’s the 6.2.

What would you recommend? I mean at the end of the day it’s not a race truck it’s heavy AF. So it would be nice to gain on the top but if not it is what it is.

 

[Foggy]

That 214/228 cam is a little "big" for a stock application...
I think comp makes a vvt cam that's one size smaller...
Also check out Gwatney performance. They have some VVT truck cams that
have caught my interest. I haven't decided on a cam yet, because I'm not sure
I'm going to keep my supercharger with stock or stroker ci yet... But I DO want to
keep VVT (of course deleting DOD)

 

[iamdub]

Sorry I guess I have to update my bio.

It’s a 2010 GMC Yukon Denali 6.2

Ah- 6.2. I retract my statement about being too big. That's not bad at all for a 6.2. The exhaust duration seems to be hefty, but that might be part of the VVT design and LS engines typically need a little help on the exhaust side. I'd say it's on the border of being out of a stock converter's grasp. So, probably not much left on the table, and that's a good thing. The lift isn't so high and the LSA is a reasonable 114°. The 6.2 has an SCR of 10.4, so you're good there. You're gonna need a good tuner to make the most of it while minimizing any potential losses.

Depending on what you tow and how often, you still might wanna look into something a little smaller. Just know that gaining low-end torque isn't gonna be hand-in-hand with top-end pulling power. Mine has a much stronger top end but the raised compression, tightened quench, aggressive spark timing and, most importantly, a great stall more than makes up for any low-end loss.

 

[decembersend]

Ah- 6.2. I retract my statement about being too big. That's not bad at all for a 6.2. The exhaust duration seems to be hefty, but that might be part of the VVT design and LS engines typically need a little help on the exhaust side. I'd say it's on the border of being out of a stock converter's grasp. So, probably not much left on the table, and that's a good thing. The lift isn't so high and the LSA is a reasonable 114°. The 6.2 has an SCR of 10.4, so you're good there. You're gonna need a good tuner to make the most of it while minimizing any potential losses.

Depending on what you tow and how often, you still might wanna look into something a little smaller. Just know that gaining low-end torque isn't gonna be hand-in-hand with top-end pulling power. Mine has a much stronger top end but the raised compression, tightened quench, aggressive spark timing and, most importantly, a great stall more than makes up for any low-end loss.

I’m going to try and get it to fasterproms in Tampa, FL for a tune. From Videos I’ve seen of his escalade he seems to know how to tune these things.

I don’t tow that often but when I do it’s a 16ft enclosed box trailer and stock she pulls it pretty nice. So I want to keep it that way or better.

I have to admit I’m new to cams and what your saying is over my head, but I can take things apart and put them back together lol. My buddy is a diesel mechanic so if I get stuck I’m sure he’ll help.

Thank you for your input

 

[swathdiver]

It’s the 6.2.

What would you recommend? I mean at the end of the day it’s not a race truck it’s heavy AF. So it would be nice to gain on the top but if not it is what it is.

I did a lot of research for 5.3s and none for the 6.2 yet. Someday I'll put a cam in the Sierra. Almost all of the camshafts I've seen trade torque down low for more horsepower on top, they move the power band up, way up, 5.3 motors losing 60 foot pounds of torque down low where a truck needs it. These aren't cars we're driving or regular cab pickups that weigh a little more than a Camaro but a thousand or more pounds over a regular cab or Camaro.

@iamdub is a smart fella and off the top of my head, @randeez and @Geotrash have put camshafts in their 6.2 Yukon Denali motors.

 

[91RS]

Here's the big question. Do you want to do long tube headers? If no, get the Gwatney Performance 6.2L VVT1 or VVT2 truck cam. The VVT1 cam is going to be better for towing which is why we chose that one for my father-in-law's Sierra Denali and he loves it. We did do headers and a Corsa Sport but only because he wanted it loud. If yes to headers, get the Comp Cams 156-401-13. For either cam you will need a cam phaser limiter. I have the Comp in my 2008 and it is awesome. It definitely makes more power than the Gwatney VVT 1 cam because it is closer to the specs of their VVT2 cam. The Comp almost could use a converter it does push a little when stopped but is isn't bad, I'm not fighting it trying to overpower the brakes or anything. It has fantastic power down low and still runs up to 6500 RPM. I bulletproofed mine and replaced the phaser, timing chain and damper (went to the LS2 style), GMPP lifters and new guides, PSI 1511 springs, BTR 11/32" pushrods, CHE 4290 trunnion, Melling 10355 oil pump, and ARP head bolts. Your stock injectors will be fine since a 2010 is Flex Fuel.

The cam you have in your original post may be the "same" cam as the 156-401-13 but for the later engines. I think I remember that my cam may only be for the L92 and the pin location is different for 2009+.

 

[decembersend]

Here's the big question. Do you want to do long tube headers? If no, get the Gwatney Performance 6.2L VVT1 or VVT2 truck cam. The VVT1 cam is going to be better for towing which is why we chose that one for my father-in-law's Sierra Denali and he loves it. We did do headers and a Corsa Sport but only because he wanted it loud. If yes to headers, get the Comp Cams 156-401-13. For either cam you will need a cam phaser limiter. I have the Comp in my 2008 and it is awesome. It definitely makes more power than the Gwatney VVT 1 cam because it is closer to the specs of their VVT2 cam. The Comp almost could use a converter it does push a little when stopped but is isn't bad, I'm not fighting it trying to overpower the brakes or anything. It has fantastic power down low and still runs up to 6500 RPM. I bulletproofed mine and replaced the phaser, timing chain and damper (went to the LS2 style), GMPP lifters and new guides, PSI 1511 springs, BTR 11/32" pushrods, CHE 4290 trunnion, Melling 10355 oil pump, and ARP head bolts. Your stock injectors will be fine since a 2010 is Flex Fuel.

The cam you have in your original post may be the "same" cam as the 156-401-13 but for the later engines. I think I remember that my cam may only be for the L92 and the pin location is different for 2009+.

A little back story not to get to far off topic. I've been a member of this site since 2016 but stayed off of it due to the mod bug that's what the other sites did to me on my Trailblazer. Anyways back on topic.

There's all sorts of things I want to do to this thing. I want Kooks Longtubes, new exhaust (brand haven't decided?), supercharger or turbo (undecided but leaning towards turbo, I know doing this is going to change the cam and stall).

I don't really want it crazy loud a little louder then factory would be nice and I would like it to have a tiny chop.

While I'm in there I think I'm going to upgrade/replace pump, chain, bolts especially at 165k. I also think I'm going to build my DOD kit instead of just buying a prebuilt kit.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I have no experience whatsoever with how VVT affects cam specs but looking at the duration, lift, and LSA. I think that cam in a 6.2 with a 6l80 would drive great and have no issue towing. If you feel like it's lost some down low which I don't think you will notice, you can have the tuner bump shift points in tow-haul mode up a few hundred RPM so it spends more time in an area where it makes more power. I'd highly recommend long tubes with just about any cam option.

 

[Geotrash]

I did this job on a 2012 Yukon XL Denali 3 times, thanks to a bad set of lifter trays. The whole story is here, but the last page summarizes where I ended up and offers some tips that might be helpful.

My wife and I tow a 7000 lb camper with ours, so I wanted a cam that would be good for towing. My priorities were durability, drivability and towing power. I ended up with a Cam Motion Stage 2 truck cam (3-bolt, no VVT, high-lift version), and am happy with the choice. It's specifically designed for the 6.2, which is important because the flow characteristics of the heads is different than the cathedral port head engines. I previously had a BTR stage 2 truck cam in there but it was designed for the 5.3 and after putting the Cam Motion cam in could feel a significant difference in towing performance (stays in 5th gear 90% of the time now), and I have to remember to keep my foot out of it or I find myself accelerating uphill.

For reference, I also have a 2007 Yukon XL Denali that has the stock L92 engine (VVT, but no AFM) that I sometimes use to pull the same camper, and the Cam Motion cam out-pulls that factory cam, both off the line unloaded, and on the highway pulling the camper. You will do slightly better down low with a single bolt VVT cam, but since my priority was durability, I didn't want to deal with the cam phaser and the possibility of problems with it. I haven't missed it.

Cam specs:
Duration at .050 - 212/220
Lift with 1.7 - .553/.553
Lobe separation 117
Intake center line 112

 

[decembersend]

I have no experience whatsoever with how VVT affects cam specs but looking at the duration, lift, and LSA. I think that cam in a 6.2 with a 6l80 would drive great and have no issue towing. If you feel like it's lost some down low which I don't think you will notice, you can have the tuner bump shift points in tow-haul mode up a few hundred RPM so it spends more time in an area where it makes more power. I'd highly recommend long tubes with just about any cam option.

This is why I don't come on forums, they just make me want to buy and mod stuff lmao. Now I'm shopping for headers