Dealer not honoring warranty work..2018 5.3 Yukon issues

[smokey_mountain]

For the "fun" of it, GM keeps replying with the same canned replies, but this time from their so called escalation email [email protected] but note it is the same person writing who responded earlier with exact same statement. I will trying calling now but from reading, call center will not overrule what email support did...

For $50K, I am jumping through all the hoops and getting nowhere. If there is a good advice on the attorneys, I think I would. Small court does appear to be an option here.



Begin forwarded message:

From: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] Re: Re: Re: Help with rough idle diagnostics...
Date: November 15, 2019 at 10:53:30 EST
To:
Reply-To: [email protected]


Good morning. Please know, both GM and Hendrick dealership thoroughly reviewed and exhausted all resources available to resolve the concern with your vehicle. It was determined your vehicle is operating as designed. I understand this is not the outcome you were expecting and apologize for any inconvenience this has caused. If you have any other questions or concerns about this matter, we strongly encourage you to continue working with your dealership.

Chelsea T.

 

[smokey_mountain]

Thank you, @swathdiver appreciate your help. I am posting one more set of logs from today
with short and long fuel trims, if you can take a glance at them that would be so helpful.
I am running Top-tier gas only from Costco or Shell. Will do the dielectric grease this weekend and also will try to check the gap.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dIw-Sc9ftoAEe60nE40I1uerNL-VBlQZ/view?usp=sharing

Ok, not finding a specific threshold before codes are thrown. However, the manuals do describe your exact conditions and suggest checking the fuel for contamination and the plugs and wires. If this were my truck, I'd run only Top-Tier high octane gasoline in it, then put dielectric grease on all spark plug ends which also makes sure they are all properly seated. I would also verify the gap on the spark plugs. Another thing mentioned in the book, was to make sure the injector harness was plugged into the right cylinders (no brainer right?) and misfires on 1 and 7 (2 and 6) could be an impending sign of an AFM problem coming up. Hope this helps Dmitry.

 

[smokey_mountain]

Is it worth replacing spark plugs and wires? to get to them I need to take wheels off and remove the wheel arc covers. It is still cheaper than trading it in, but in the course of the diagnostics I am already $350+ into it...

Any thoughts on this snake oil https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PXCTPV7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[iamdub]

Try a different brand of fuel? I'm not a fan of Shell. I have no scientific data to back up my claim, but I swear I get better MPG, more power and smoother operation on Chevron. I run 93 exclusively. Maybe run your tank to around 1/4, dump in a bottle of Berryman B-12 and run it to 1/8 - 1/16 and fill up with Chevron 93.

 

[swathdiver]

Thank you, @swathdiver appreciate your help. I am posting one more set of logs from today
with short and long fuel trims, if you can take a glance at them that would be so helpful.
I am running Top-tier gas only from Costco or Shell. Will do the dielectric grease this weekend and also will try to check the gap.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dIw-Sc9ftoAEe60nE40I1uerNL-VBlQZ/view?usp=sharing

Assuming cell CE is for Bank1, that side is running about 75 degree hotter (cat temps). Then I see that the fuel pump commanded and actual fuel pressures are not matching up more often than not. Mine always do.

Don't run either of those fuels. Shell is just no good. I can always count on Shell to deliver 2 mpg less than Mobil, Sunoco and Chevron, every time and that's with their 93 octane even. Costco is top-tier but where'd they buy it from? Shell?

Do yourself a favor and switch over to Chevron or Mobil for a couple of tanks and see if the motor settles down. Texaco and Exxon are affiliate of each and I know they are up there in North Carolina. What part? I like Winston-Salem, Greensboro and Wilmington/Wrightsville Beach. It's been my pleasure to help, you're welcome!

 

[Miami-Dade]

.
I am running Top-tier gas only from Costco or Shell.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dIw-Sc9ftoAEe60nE40I1uerNL-VBlQZ/view?usp=sharing

Don't run either of those fuels. Shell is just no good. I can always count on Shell to deliver 2 mpg less than Mobil, Sunoco and Chevron, every time and that's with their 93 octane even. Costco is top-tier but where'd they buy it from? Shell?

Do yourself a favor and switch over to Chevron or Mobil for a couple of tanks and see if the motor settles down. Texaco and Exxon are affiliate of each and I know they are up there in North Carolina. What part? I like Winston-Salem, Greensboro and Wilmington/Wrightsville Beach. It's been my pleasure to help, you're welcome!

Do what James said. I used Shell during a Hurricane cause I had no choice. I got 12 MPG instead of the 24 MPG out on the highway. Plus my Tahoe ran horribly.

I hope nobody on this forum uses Shell or Costco.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Is it worth replacing spark plugs and wires? to get to them I need to take wheels off and remove the wheel arc covers. It is still cheaper than trading it in, but in the course of the diagnostics I am already $350+ into it...

Any thoughts on this snake oil https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PXCTPV7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Agree with James, Chris, and Gary on the fuel. Screw Shell. I use exclusively Mobil or BP stations now (unless I'm on e85), and the mpg shows it.

I will look through your logs closer this evening, but at first glance you dont have a vac leak. Your trims seem to be low, if anything. Can you see the alcohol % somewhere?

New plugs and wires would be my first move with a misfire count like that. Relatively "cheap" and easy to rule out by changing.

If you want to run a real fuel system cleaner, do yourself a favor and get some Kreen from www.kanolabs.com

 

[smokey_mountain]

Thank you everyone for all the help! Much appreciated, if it was not for support from this forum, my kids college would be delayed as I will be still paying off trade-in vehicle

I have problem with my knee and cannot stand on knees for a long time to change spark plugs, but I will check wires and put dielectric on the plug boots.

 

[GTNator]

Do what James said. I used Shell during a Hurricane cause I had no choice. I got 12 MPG instead of the 24 MPG out on the highway. Plus my Tahoe ran horribly.

I hope nobody on this forum uses Shell or Costco.

Interesting, I dint know Shell was so bad. They must add additives to their fuel that are different than what others add to make it their own proprietary blend cause other than that, they’re all the same. I wonder what crap their mixing in there? But noted, I will make a point of not going to Shell; I don’t think I ever do but that was due to Mobile and Chevron being closer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[HiHoeSilver]

After looking at your logs a little, without going back through the whole thread, have we talked at all about your idle simply being a little low? It's barely at 500 on average. I'd be happier to see it around 6, and that 100 rpm can make a huge difference in the typical Chevy "rough" idle.

 

[OR VietVet]

Here in Pewgene, Oregon there is the option of Shell and Chevron. I tried Shell ONCE. Never again. My MPG went to hell. I ran the same mid range I do with the Chevron. That Chevron is 1/8th mile away. It is pricier but my MPG makes up for it and the engine is smooth.

 

[swathdiver]

Something to look into: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/230973-letter-from-gm-regarding-fuel-injectors-on-62l/

 

[BG1988]

I did talk to the lemon law attorney, I bought this car as GM company car (ironically) it was titled to GM before me for 4 months. Apparently in pro-business NC it disqualifies me from lemon law claim. I think GM and dealers know that and that is why they are not concerned. This is what Hendrick Service Manager named Rick told me laughing Impertinently to my face - we will drown you in the paperwork, go ahead complain to attorney general, BBB, GM...

I am taking it next week to Charles Boyd Chevy 70 miles away. If they are not willing to fix it, then I am afraid I am out of ideas.

If I only had Lemon Law on my side this truck would have been fixed by now. GM has a special line and contacts for Lemon Law clients and they handle them differently.

I suggest you file a claim with the dealers bond the one they sold it to you at that will get their attention.. as if the claim goes threw they will be out of business pretty quick as they will not be able to get another one..

 

[smokey_mountain]

Fully agree, mine is +/- 500. I am being told by dealer, they will not increase RPM, GM will not allow. Tuners can but the same performance shop has explained that there is a mark created during any flash. Blackbear guys confirming in my this thread that they do a lot to avoid marks and no denied warranty yet, but GM is getting "nastier" and if GM kicks owners to the curb for the oil cans, while I am in dispute, I do not want to give them any reasons to deny warranty on my truck.

After looking at your logs a little, without going back through the whole thread, have we talked at all about your idle simply being a little low? It's barely at 500 on average. I'd be happier to see it around 6, and that 100 rpm can make a huge difference in the typical Chevy "rough" idle.

 

[smokey_mountain]

Thank you, sorry but can you please elaborate a bit more on the dealer's bond. I am not familiar with the process. Appreciate it!

I suggest you file a claim with the dealers bond the one they sold it to you at that will get their attention.. as if the claim goes threw they will be out of business pretty quick as they will not be able to get another one..

 

[BG1988]

Thank you, sorry but can you please elaborate a bit more on the dealer's bond. I am not familiar with the process. Appreciate it!

it's normally the last resort once all options are exhausted


but you submit all the documentation to the bond you will need to get the information from the dealer you bought it from it's going to be hard but they will have to cough up the information.... they have no choice to give it to you..


you will not get the full amount but only the amount to fix it

 

[smokey_mountain]

Thank you, yes, definitely last resort but so far none of the dealers played it honestly and fair with me either. Trying one more dealer this week.

it's normally the last resort once all options are exhausted


but you submit all the documentation to the bond you will need to get the information from the dealer you bought it from it's going to be hard but they will have to cough up the information.... they have no choice to give it to you..


you will not get the full amount but only the amount to fix it

 

[wjburken]

Thank you, yes, definitely last resort but so far none of the dealers played it honestly and fair with me either. Trying one more dealer this week.

I’m not sure what filling a claim against the dealers surety bond will get you. The dealer is bound by the contract they have with GM, who actually pays for warranty work, and you would have a hard time proving the dealership is not honoring the warranty when you have been told directly by GM that your issue is not a warranty issue. If you want to take this to court, the dealer is going to defer everything to GM who is actually the one who would pay for any warranty work and GM employs a lot of lawyers.

At the end of the day, I get that you are not happy with how your truck is running, but that in and of itself is not enough for a warranty claim even though you took it to a mechanic you trust that says something is wrong as GM doesn’t recognize them. The mechanics they do recognize are agreeing with GM.

I would not spend much more energy on GM and start focusing on making the changes you need to be happy with your vehicle on your own, or trade it for something else.

 

[BG1988]

I’m not sure what filling a claim against the dealers surety bond will get you. The dealer is bound by the contract they have with GM, who actually pays for warranty work, and you would have a hard time proving the dealership is not honoring the warranty when you have been told directly by GM that your issue is not a warranty issue. If you want to take this to court, the dealer is going to defer everything to GM who is actually the one who would pay for any warranty work and GM employs a lot of lawyers.

At the end of the day, I get that you are not happy with how your truck is running, but that in and of itself is not enough for a warranty claim even though you took it to a mechanic you trust that says something is wrong as GM doesn’t recognize them. The mechanics they do recognize are agreeing with GM.

I would not spend much more energy on GM and start focusing on making the changes you need to be happy with your vehicle on your own, or trade it for something else.

it includes warranty disputes .... which is what the op claims

 

[wjburken]

it includes warranty disputes .... which is what the op claims

I understand that it includes warranty disputes. The problem is the Dealer holds the bond, not GM. GM, who pays the warranty claims is saying it’s not a warranted issue under the warranty that GM issued. The dealer didn’t issue the warranty.

So yes, a claim can be filed against the dealer, or dealers as multiple dealers have given the same answer, but it will be a useless claim since it is out of the dealers hands right now unless you think the dealer should just suck it up and pay for it out of their own pocket and not be reimbursed by GM just to make the customer happy. That is not always good business and the fact that the OP had already soured the relationship with that dealer, I don’t think that is likely. You will spend more in legal fees and time than if you just paid for whatever fix you think needs to be made.

I deal with warranty claims on equipment we build that costs any where from $500,000 to $4,000,000. I get it. A lot of wiggle room sometimes, but at the end of the day it comes down to the contractual requirements. When a customer is willing to work with us in a questionable issue, we are willing to see if we can find a compromise. When a customer appears to be demanding and not willing to work with us, we will hold a pretty firm line. I have authorized over $200,000 of warranty work on something that could be argued as not being warranty because of a good relationship. Sometimes we have customers offer to split the cost. I have also told customers they needed to pay for a $10,000 item because they are not willing to have a discussion or have burnt a bridge in the past.