Dan's ratty truck

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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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I can't believe you found a place that still cuts rotors. Just about impossible to find a place around me. I did find a place, but they want $20 a piece to cut them, and there's no guarantee when I'd get them back because it wouldn't be a priority. What did they charge you per rotor?
It would have been $20 each but my buddy didn’t charge me, I’m fairly certain all O’Riellys do it. They can pretty much tell right away if they will be doable or not, they have a minimal thickness spec and even though one of mine was somewhat warped they were able to cut that out of it. Normally I wouldn’t mess around reusing such an important part but……. I’m using used pads with them and it’s the rears which do nearly nothing in a short bed truck.
 

Tonyrodz

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It would have been $20 each but my buddy didn’t charge me, I’m fairly certain all O’Riellys do it. They can pretty much tell right away if they will be doable or not, they have a minimal thickness spec and even though one of mine was somewhat warped they were able to cut that out of it. Normally I wouldn’t mess around reusing such an important part but……. I’m using used pads with them and it’s the rears which do nearly nothing in a short bed truck.
I don't have an O'Reilly's near me, only Advance Auto and Auto Zones. They suck. I have used oem rotors that could've used a good cut, but I just bought some aftermarket. Imo oem is more preferable.
 

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It would have been $20 each but my buddy didn’t charge me, I’m fairly certain all O’Riellys do it. They can pretty much tell right away if they will be doable or not, they have a minimal thickness spec and even though one of mine was somewhat warped they were able to cut that out of it. Normally I wouldn’t mess around reusing such an important part but……. I’m using used pads with them and it’s the rears which do nearly nothing in a short bed truck.
The Oreilly near me does it but not if they’re slotted. Or drilled. Mine have been slotted for many years. I’m hoping my Wilwoods never wear out.
 
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Dantheman1540

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I don't have an O'Reilly's near me, only Advance Auto and Auto Zones. They suck. I have used oem rotors that could've used a good cut, but I just bought some aftermarket. Imo oem is more preferable.
Autozone and Advanced are awful. I don’t mind after market brakes, I’ve had nothing but good luck with power stop and the R1 concepts stuff on the front of the Tahoe is great so far.
The Oreilly near me does it but not if they’re slotted. Or drilled. Mine have been slotted for many years. I’m hoping my Wilwoods never wear out.
I thought they used an abrasive sander or something but it’s basically a lathe with a teeny tiny blade that would catch the holes and slots bad! I bet the wilwoods don’t wear out ever as long as you don’t run the pads too long lol
 

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Yeah they said the lathe they use would catch so it’s a no go. The Wilwoods are so massive I don’t see them ever wearing or warping. I swear they’re 3x as much mass as the NNBS upgrade I put on the front. But it comes with a cost, even just for maintenance- pads for all 4 corners were $300 last I checked.
 
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Yeah they said the lathe they use would catch so it’s a no go. The Wilwoods are so massive I don’t see them ever wearing or warping. I swear they’re 3x as much mass as the NNBS upgrade I put on the front. But it comes with a cost, even just for maintenance- pads for all 4 corners were $300 last I checked.
They are badass I’d love to feel the difference in person!
 

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damn young'ns
back in my day you didnt just run out n buy new rotors every time you did brakes
rotors done with a lathe - trains on the other hand :oops: did a job down at amtrack where they did maintenance on them. they roll the train car over the grinder and fkin thing lights up a 30' radius with sparks to refinish the wheels
 
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Dantheman1540

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damn young'ns
back in my day you didnt just run out n buy new rotors every time you did brakes

That's typically what I do but I'm trying to shake the urge!

I guess this weekend I will check to see if the 4pistons will fit in the front with the dodge wheels. If they do then I guess I'll be ordering a set, if not I'll have to figure out if the current rusty rotors are salvageable.
 

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Yeah they said the lathe they use would catch so it’s a no go. The Wilwoods are so massive I don’t see them ever wearing or warping. I swear they’re 3x as much mass as the NNBS upgrade I put on the front. But it comes with a cost, even just for maintenance- pads for all 4 corners were $300 last I checked.
good pads for le ctsv are up there... i noticed a little shaking and, same as you, i wanted to get in front of it before it ruined the rotor. there are some cheap ass pads like $40bux that say they fit but i cant imagine how bad they are. oems are about $250, after market are about the same price and up.
but it seems after a nice heat cycle and try and make sure not to leave the pads resting on the rotor- hard brake and then stop and sit at light with foot on brake. they brake smooth again.

looking at ebc reds for them, seems they give up a little braking power but dust is wayyy less....the pads that are on this thing (guessing oem) absolutely cover the wheels with brake dust if i do a few hard stops
 

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good pads for le ctsv are up there... i noticed a little shaking and, same as you, i wanted to get in front of it before it ruined the rotor. there are some cheap ass pads like $40bux that say they fit but i cant imagine how bad they are. oems are about $250, after market are about the same price and up.
but it seems after a nice heat cycle and try and make sure not to leave the pads resting on the rotor- hard brake and then stop and sit at light with foot on brake. they brake smooth again.

looking at ebc reds for them, seems they give up a little braking power but dust is wayyy less....the pads that are on this thing (guessing oem) absolutely cover the wheels with brake dust if i do a few hard stops

My buddies ZL1 is the same way. Freaking dust like crazy.
 

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Yeah they said the lathe they use would catch so it’s a no go. The Wilwoods are so massive I don’t see them ever wearing or warping. I swear they’re 3x as much mass as the NNBS upgrade I put on the front. But it comes with a cost, even just for maintenance- pads for all 4 corners were $300 last I checked.
do you just replace the disc part of the two piece rotors? on mine all i find is rotors and hats already made up, very few disc only options mostly aftermarket and 800$$ and up
seemed odd to me, but guessing its because people are dumb and its just safer that way?
 

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damn young'ns
back in my day you didnt just run out n buy new rotors every time you did brakes
rotors done with a lathe - trains on the other hand :oops: did a job down at amtrack where they did maintenance on them. they roll the train car over the grinder and fkin thing lights up a 30' radius with sparks to refinish the wheels
No wonder trains are so damn slow, the wheels keep getting smaller. :emotions33:
 

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do you just replace the disc part of the two piece rotors? on mine all i find is rotors and hats already made up, very few disc only options mostly aftermarket and 800$$ and up
seemed odd to me, but guessing its because people are dumb and its just safer that way?
Yeah you can buy just the rotor minus the hat, $515 each for the 16” and $415 for the rear 14”. Plus shipping I’m sure.
 
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Skipped my nightly workout and decided to do a 4 pot caliper test fitting with the new wheels. Being that they are from a 2500 I thought maybe the barrels were thicker and would hit but it fits great! No need to even consider reviving these brakes, gonna order the parts soon so when I finally get an axle in it I can move it and stop it.
 

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pwtr02ss

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Skipped my nightly workout and decided to do a 4 pot caliper test fitting with the new wheels. Being that they are from a 2500 I thought maybe the barrels were thicker and would hit but it fits great! No need to even consider reviving these brakes, gonna order the parts soon so when I finally get an axle in it I can move it and stop it.
Awesome!

Those 2021 brakes? Sorry I haven't been following as closely as I probably should've. I get distracted easily with all the manly talk we have going on in here at times.
 
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Awesome!

Those 2021 brakes? Sorry I haven't been following as closely as I probably should've. I get distracted easily with all the manly talk we have going on in here at times.

Yep, the 4 piston big daddys, my Powerstops are rusted really bad and since they are drilled I can't re-surface them and no reason to throw money at something I want to upgrade plus, I have a spare 4piston for testing that will save me $100.

Looks like the cheapest I can find pads and rotors for are the power stop NOT drilled/slotted with ceramic pads for $193. I'd like OEM but I can't seem to find any and I don't really want to pay more when I feel powerstop is just fine.
 

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Yep, the 4 piston big daddys, my Powerstops are rusted really bad and since they are drilled I can't re-surface them and no reason to throw money at something I want to upgrade plus, I have a spare 4piston for testing that will save me $100.

Looks like the cheapest I can find pads and rotors for are the power stop NOT drilled/slotted with ceramic pads for $193. I'd like OEM but I can't seem to find any and I don't really want to pay more when I feel powerstop is just fine.
Cool deal. I thought about doing that upgrade on the avalanche but I don't really want to run a spacer.

As far as rotors, I'll probably never buy drilled/slotted again. I haven't had good luck with them. It'll be basic biznatches from here on out for me. I think they do better with heat/warpage, honestly.
 
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Cool deal. I thought about doing that upgrade on the avalanche but I don't really want to run a spacer.

As far as rotors, I'll probably never buy drilled/slotted again. I haven't had good luck with them. It'll be basic biznatches from here on out for me. I think they do better with heat/warpage, honestly.

Spacer for the wheels? I used to be a big hater of spacers but this Tahoe has changed my perspective of that. I've had 1/4" spacers on it since basically week one without any issues and I beat it on the regular lol.

I haven't had any issues with drilled/slotted which surprises me with how I treat stuff but I think part of it is due to having the manny tranny. I don't have to use my brakes nearly as much as an auto. @randeez brought up a great point earlier about getting the brakes hot with aggressive braking and then sitting on them at a light causing warping. In my case, I would typically compression brake a tad (especially when towing) and save the brakes causing them to not be as hot plus when I get to the light I don't need to use my brakes to sit still because Florida is flat earth territory.


Uhg Covid still ******* me off, I want to order that $193 Powerstop kit but it won't ship till Mid Jan which is too far so, I think I'll do OEM rotors and Powerstop pads coming to $266 total but it will be here in a week or less from Summit and OEM rotors are probably the best option. This thing is gonna stop hard AF! 4pot front, NBS 2pot fronts in the rear with a 13" rotor, stainless lines F/R, and Hydro boost in a 4,800# truck. The front brakes are rated for a 6k# truck and the rears are for a 6,400# truck so this mofo ought to stop good!
 

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Spacer for the wheels? I used to be a big hater of spacers but this Tahoe has changed my perspective of that. I've had 1/4" spacers on it since basically week one without any issues and I beat it on the regular lol.

I haven't had any issues with drilled/slotted which surprises me with how I treat stuff but I think part of it is due to having the manny tranny. I don't have to use my brakes nearly as much as an auto. @randeez brought up a great point earlier about getting the brakes hot with aggressive braking and then sitting on them at a light causing warping. In my case, I would typically compression brake a tad (especially when towing) and save the brakes causing them to not be as hot plus when I get to the light I don't need to use my brakes to sit still because Florida is flat earth territory.


Uhg Covid still ******* me off, I want to order that $193 Powerstop kit but it won't ship till Mid Jan which is too far so, I think I'll do OEM rotors and Powerstop pads coming to $266 total but it will be here in a week or less from Summit and OEM rotors are probably the best option. This thing is gonna stop hard AF! 4pot front, NBS 2pot fronts in the rear with a 13" rotor, stainless lines F/R, and Hydro boost in a 4,800# truck. The front brakes are rated for a 6k# truck and the rears are for a 6,400# truck so this mofo ought to stop good!
Yeah, spacers for the wheels. Its just one more thing to mess with. I have to run a 1/8" spacer on the front of the s10 because the center caps hit the hubs. Its no big deal, just something I'd rather not do. Plus the wheels already stick out too far IMO.
 

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Yep, the 4 piston big daddys, my Powerstops are rusted really bad and since they are drilled I can't re-surface them and no reason to throw money at something I want to upgrade plus, I have a spare 4piston for testing that will save me $100.

Looks like the cheapest I can find pads and rotors for are the power stop NOT drilled/slotted with ceramic pads for $193. I'd like OEM but I can't seem to find any and I don't really want to pay more when I feel powerstop is just fine.
If the rotors are just rusted without being warped, have you thought about hitting them lightly with a palm sander and some good grit? It'll work to remove the surface rust--plus it'll save you some money.
 

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