Coolant leak time for a radiator...

[scot moore]

I have a 2012 Yukon Denali it has around 220K miles. I have had it for 110K of those, since December 2016. I have noticed a small coolant leak, long story short i got some UV dye and was only able to find it in one spot. Not a good picture, but it is around the top drivers side on the radiator. looking through the forums and google looks like this is a common failure.

I am not looking for more work then needed, but I figured it was time to replace the radiator, and looking what else i should do while I am there. I guess that plastic T on the firewall, (I have not gotten the part number yet) the hoses, the thermostat. Water pump is old, but no issue with it yet. i might replace it now, may not. i read maybe i need new orings for the oil or transmission cooling lines. the idler pully and belt also look good, but I may replace them while I am doing it. I don't want to start replacing things just because, as i could always use that money for something else. I also don't want to not replace the obvious stuff that should be done or needs to be done. Now on the radiators, I have several thins. some say only buy ac delco, some say Denso, yet others point to some of the all metal ones on amazon, like these https://a.co/d/0ep2vKNc https://amzn.to/3TltaxN https://amzn.to/4vkgpB9. the thing is besides the brand, I am not sure if i need the 3 core or 4 core, and i have not verified if mine has the oil cooler in the radiator, or only the transmission. I also have a disability that somehow lets me look and order the exact thing i need until it arrives and reality warps and it morphs to the wrong part as i overlooked something stupid or something. and it does not matter how many times i check and recheck before i order it... anyway some help and recommendations on what to order and replace are appreciated. I don't have any issue doing the work myself, just want to make sure I have everything I need so I can finish it when I start and not be down a car. thanks

 

[Joseph Garcia]

First of all, establish a firm budget for your project, as this will ultimately define the overall scope of your project. Note that all of us here are more than happy to spend your money.

The existing OEM radiator has served you well up until now, so I recommending replacing it with the same OEM radiator. Use your VIN number when ordering a replacement radiator, so that you get the correct one, and not be forced to make connection modifications. Change any associated O-rings along the way.

Replace ALL cooling system and heating hoses, as they deteriorate over time with the coolant on the inside and the heat on the outside. When they rupture, you could have catastrophic motor damage (my heater hose ruptured, but I was lucky and was less than a mile from my house).

Replace the Tees, while you are at it, as they get brittle with age, and will leak and ultimately rupture. The part numbers are 15055343 (white connector) and 15055342 (black connector), and replace them with the same color Tee as currently on there. When you change out the tees, be sure to wear gloves, as the firewall insulation is quite aggressive, and your hands will itch for days.

Change out the thermostat and the water pump as part of the project, or you will be doing it at some point in the future, most likely at a most inconvenient time. With the old radiator out, you have plenty of room to work.

Change your belts and tensioner assemblies while you have the open space, as they wear with age and heat.

Other folks will chime in, and help you spend your money. Let us know what you ultimately decide to do in your project.

 

[scot moore]

thanks I appreciate it, and will defiantly check on the water pump, belt and pulleys. I will check on the OEM radiator, you feel it would be better than getting one of the all metal ones?

 

[mikez71]

Cheapo $100 spectra CU2370 radiator seemed like a good deal to me.. Just installed a few months ago, so no long term review.
Just re-use your old retaining clips, because the clips it comes with make it very difficult to install the line.

On my other truck I installed a Denso, but later notice it says 'w/o engine oil cooler' despite having the connections.
And they don't list the cooler specs anywhere...
The other Denso that does have the oil cooler says 'except hevy duty cooling'.. ?

Genuine GM should be best, but cost is 2-4x other brands..

I worry about the aluminum ones because I've read about early leaks quite a few times...
(Whereas stock ones leak after 10-15 years maybe?)

 

[Marky Dissod]

You feel it would be better than getting one of the all metal ones?

IFF an all-metal radiator had a stellar reputation AND a stellar warranty to boot, and was reasonably priced, I MIGHT take the chance ... but ... how necessary is it, really? How long did the previous not-all-metal radiator last?
My '02 Tahoe's not-all-metal radiator was GM OE when I bought the Tahoe 2ndhand in 2022, replaced it a year ago.

 

[Foggy]

The METAL TEE's for heater hoses
All Coolant Hoses
Thermostat
Do these for sure along with the radiator of your choice.
You can just look at your current setup. IF it has lines going into
the driver side (similar to trans lines at passenger side), then you NEEd
to order a radiator with the oil cooler.
OE replacement is fine. I'd recommend rockauto or local...
many of amazon parts are ****
Since your belts, tensioner, pulley and water pump or still ok,
I'd leave those for a later "project". They are NOT in your way of a radiator
change.
Make sure you back clean out your AC condensor while radiator is out and
check your aux tran cooler for cleanliness (if you have it)
It may take a while to burb your cooling system...
So monitor your temp with a real scanner and be patient with it

 

[scot moore]

ok thanks this is what i was trying to figure out. i do have lines going into the radiator on the drivers side, and the passenger side. so the passenger is the transmission and the driver is the oil? sorry she is dusty and needs to be cleaned. had to make a couple trip to the farm over the past week. it is normally not as dusty under there.

 

[Foggy]

ok thanks this is what i was trying to figure out. i do have lines going into the radiator on the drivers side, and the passenger side. so the passenger is the transmission and the driver is the oil? sorry she is dusty and needs to be cleaned. had to make a couple trip to the farm over the past week. it is normally not as dusty under there. View attachment 488846View attachment 488847

You got it ! Orielly etc now sell the dorman upgraded all metal heater hose tees
right off the shelf, so no hunting anymore. And they are reasonable $$

 

[scot moore]

only thing i read bad about doing the metal tees is if they seize on the heater core you can damage it trying to remove them. that makes me a little leery of going metal

 

[Fless]

thanks I appreciate it, and will defiantly check on the water pump, belt and pulleys. I will check on the OEM radiator, you feel it would be better than getting one of the all metal ones?

Best to get along with the water pump and not be too defiant.