Ceramic or metallic?

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bruce s

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I recently moved to Colorado Springs with my 08 Yukon SLT and I'm going to need brakes soon. What does everyone prefer/best to use in hilly/mountainous regions? Looking to do rotors and pads on the front and rear and possibly new shocks and struts.
 

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premium ceramic are considered better than semi-metallic, the only thing better than ceramic is carbon fiber but carbon fiber makes a LOT of brake dust
 

Tonyrodz

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premium ceramic are considered better than semi-metallic, the only thing better than ceramic is carbon fiber but carbon fiber makes a LOT of brake dust
Are ceramic pads more rough on rotors then semi metallics? That's what a parts guy told me yrs ago.
 

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Wes
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Are ceramic pads more rough on rotors then semi metallics? That's what a parts guy told me yrs ago.
I would imagine so given it's a harder material, but I have never gone thru any rotors in less than 2yrs so I wouldn't say the wear is excessive even if it is more, there is a noticeable difference in stopping power and they last longer, makes less dust, quieter.
 

BG1988

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Are ceramic pads more rough on rotors then semi metallics? That's what a parts guy told me yrs ago.
my old impala had ceramics

pretty nice as they BITE hard I could stop so fast even the ABS could not keep up with it..

it did not wear out the rotors the 50,000 miles i had it in


very little wear and tear but they were properly installed.
 

petethepug

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Ceramic, copper free pads with zinc coated drilled / slotted rotors that are countersunk from Rock Auto. They’re amazingly inexpensive.

Next to no dust, quiet, no fade or undesirable braking characteristics. The rotors run cooler, dissipate water and dust internally and externally so there’s no brake material build up (warping), hot or cold spots. Lastly, zinc don’t rust and stay looking good for years.

I’ll be ready to slap a new set of Bosch ceramic pads on in about 18 mo. It’s unreal how this combo lasts, performs and withstands the daily grind in our hilly beach city. This combo consistently pulls our 6.2 AWD Denali XL down, completely unnoticed, as good brakes should.


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bfourman

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Brakemotive w/ceramic pads. Search eBay, excellent pricing and fast shipping.
 

swathdiver

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I recently moved to Colorado Springs with my 08 Yukon SLT and I'm going to need brakes soon. What does everyone prefer/best to use in hilly/mountainous regions? Looking to do rotors and pads on the front and rear and possibly new shocks and struts.

Yes, ceramic pads are harder on rotors but we replace them anyway so the point is moot. I recently did my brakes and put OE pads back on with OE everything else. Truck stopped fine even while towing 5,000 pound trailer with no brakes but I was not in hill country. Whatever you pick, get those new drag reduction clips, they do a better job of keeping the pads off the rotors, my mileage has crept up and my coasting ability has nearly doubled and I only put them on the front.

18K1025SS
18K1027SS

Check here to make sure they are for yours too:
https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php
 

petethepug

Michael
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Negative, countersunk drilling and slots don’t do that. The decrease in surface area does dissipate the heat and moisture better. When the stopping energy is converted to friction, it’s path to follow for equalization is far shorter.

The opportunity for pad material and gas off is wicked away so quickly it doesn’t have a chance to bake on or in old skool terms, warp.


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mountie

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I was told 'drilled & slotted" rotors are neat looking, but not necessary for regular driving.

I bought my Yukon XL about 8 months ago. Well maintained, but I want to know what shape my brakes are, on all 4 corners. I do like the idea of zinc coated rotors / ceramic pads.
 

Tonyrodz

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I was told 'drilled & slotted" rotors are neat looking, but not necessary for regular driving.

I bought my Yukon XL about 8 months ago. Well maintained, but I want to know what shape my brakes are, on all 4 corners. I do like the idea of zinc coated rotors / ceramic pads.
Why aren't they?
 

SnowDrifter

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Why aren't they?
Drilled rotors have a statistically higher chance of cracking. They decrease thermal mass too. IMO if you need it, you're better off with slotted than drilled. But either way unless you're towing or doing high speed driving where that becomes important, you're better off with traditional solid for DDing. Better pad life
 

swathdiver

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ACDelco offers slotted rotors.

18A1705SD for rotors and SDPR209TK for a Pad and Rotor Kit

Are you guys seeing these part numbers on the ACDelco website with your VINs under "AC Delco Specialty", a page or two down?

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php

I was under the impression that ceramic pads were used on the PPV-SSV, my OE pads are 171-1074 which I believe are metallic.
 

petethepug

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Abused rotors crack whether their drilled, slotted, vented, flat or a combo of anything. There’s a scenario for every type of disc where one emerges a winner, and one’s a loser. Our 7-9% grades with stop lights all over town aren’t suited for the same discs / brakes of a x county hwy driver.

Real life brake dyno tests are more exciting to read, but they’re not usually made public. If a specific disc / pad combo works, stick with it.


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bfourman

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For what it’s worth I ran the same drilled/slotted rotors and pads on my 00 XL 2500 for close to 4 years with no warping, cracking and no appreciable pad wear. That included heavy towing and a marathon cross country trip over the mountains with a trailer.

Plus they look cool [emoji2]


Nothing wrong with a set of quality solid rotors and quality ceramic pads, but for not much more money the Brakemotive stuff is a nice upgrade. I even put their stuff on my wife’s CRV, and I live in Indiana lol.
 

mountie

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Well since I don't know everything about the condition of my brakes.... Even though they feel just fine....... I want to see how much time is on them. So, I'm going to a good truck/mod shop nearby and put my Yukon on their lift and inspect them. Then consider a nice upgrade when it's time.

And I'll know how much $ in advance.

I used them before on my '88 and they were very fair.
 

BG1988

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Negative, countersunk drilling and slots don’t do that. The decrease in surface area does dissipate the heat and moisture better. When the stopping energy is converted to friction, it’s path to follow for equalization is far shorter.

The opportunity for pad material and gas off is wicked away so quickly it doesn’t have a chance to bake on or in old skool terms, warp.


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When the stopping energy is converted into 120KW of power....
 

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