I should have added: Nice job on the troubleshooting and thank you also for writing it up to share with all of us. May the winds of fortune blow your way.
A brake job rabbit hole
- Thread starter cofferson
- Start date
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strutaeng
Full Access Member
I replaced the EBCM for my 99 Silverado NBS last year with a remanufactured Dorman unit. I bought mine at the local parts store, but Rockauto showed they also had them in stock (and better price,of course).
I would have thought a GMT900 EBCM is still available (?), but the 2500 Suburbans in that generation where produced in smaller numbers, unfortunately.
I would have thought a GMT900 EBCM is still available (?), but the 2500 Suburbans in that generation where produced in smaller numbers, unfortunately.
Looks like I could buy one right now if it was a 1500!
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If I didn't find some in the junkyard, I never would have been able to find these coils elsewhere I don't think. There were none in the yard near me but I believe many of the 2006-2012 Rams used this TRW ABS module. VW used it too in the Passat but it only used the 5.5 ohm black coils
OBSandaNNBS
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Lots of great info, good write up.
Glad you got it solved, I was reading your problem thread for fun. I probably would have gotten as far as the discontinued EBCM and been forced to quit.
I see a nice little business rebuilding these units on the horizon for you. 
OBSandaNNBS
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It occurred to me...how did you figure out the RAM modules were compatible?
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Did you try to bleed the brakes using the scan tool, prior to your burnishing and bashing technique?
Make note that after a couple quick burnishings (and those times when you have high speed quick stops), it cooks your pads. Very VERY hot. If you are not rolling and those hot pads are sitting in one spot against the red hot rotor, you can inadvertently “melt” a set of pads to your rotor. I use that term loosely, it’s not going to TIG weld them together, but it definitely can warp the pads and rotors.
Also, looking at your original pads, that almost looked the way a pad would on a caliper that is either uneven or “frozen”. This and a chattered feeling in the brake pedal can be caused by having too much caliper grease. Make sure that you do not put grease at the end of he Slide Pins, otherwise it will cause a vacuum that will not allow the slide(s) to fully close. I’ve seen this blow boots out and cause calipers to sit crooked because one side worked, but the other side was frozen.
Nice work on the write-up. All in all, how long do you think it took you?
Make note that after a couple quick burnishings (and those times when you have high speed quick stops), it cooks your pads. Very VERY hot. If you are not rolling and those hot pads are sitting in one spot against the red hot rotor, you can inadvertently “melt” a set of pads to your rotor. I use that term loosely, it’s not going to TIG weld them together, but it definitely can warp the pads and rotors.
Also, looking at your original pads, that almost looked the way a pad would on a caliper that is either uneven or “frozen”. This and a chattered feeling in the brake pedal can be caused by having too much caliper grease. Make sure that you do not put grease at the end of he Slide Pins, otherwise it will cause a vacuum that will not allow the slide(s) to fully close. I’ve seen this blow boots out and cause calipers to sit crooked because one side worked, but the other side was frozen.
Nice work on the write-up. All in all, how long do you think it took you?
Took me a month because I couldn't figure out the issue, was waiting on parts, and had to fix that board.
