Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
It worked! Finally did this today and it worked! Thanks man!
Its Fuse#61 (Alc/comp). “Automatic Leveling Control Compressor.
AutoRide delete
- Thread starter syclnjr
- Start date
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It worked! Finally did this today and it worked! Thanks man!
Its Fuse#61 (Alc/comp). “Automatic Leveling Control Compressor.
Took ya a couple weeks but I’m glad you got around to it! Good to hear it worked. I hate dash lights, so annoying.
Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
Wait...it didn’t work.
Started it up tonight for the second time and the code came back sadly. Oh well...will try it again maybe in a couple more weeks. 
Dammit. I’m pretty sure that’s the right method.Wait...it didn’t work.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Wait...it didn’t work.
How did you lift it?
Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Simple and cheap spacers.
Spacers front and rear?
Did you ever install longer rods on the ride height sensors?
Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
Spacers front and rear, and I never installed longer rods. I also didn’t mark where the sensors lie without the lift, so I believe it would be a guessing game at how long of rods I would need. I’ve thought about removing the lift, marking where the sensors are, and then installing the lift again with the appropriate rod length to match the OEM sensor level.
I was really hoping removing the fuse would have taken care of it.
Maybe I’m over thinking the whole rod length?
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
The rear rod length is probably what is causing the light to be illuminated.
When you lift it without lengthening the rod the auto level thinks it needs to release air from the system to bring the rear end down, so it tries to but the rear end stays up because of the spacers, so when it can't bring it down it sets the service suspension light to let you know there is an issue.
Similar with lowering the rear. If you don't shorten the rods then the auto leveling compressor just inflates the air shocks to bring the rear end back up.
Just get some threaded rod or screws , cut the head off the screws so you have allthread in the same size and pitch as the OEM rods and add 1/4” to the overall length. Try them and if they don’t work add another 1/4” and keep experimenting until they’re the right length. I use a Dremel with cutoff wheel to cut them with.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Would an ALC trimset calibration convince the Truck that the ride hight is ok anyway?
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I think it probably would but I have never tried it.
I thought about this after getting my Tech 2 but haven't had time to mess with it.
I don’t think so if the ride height sensors are out of range due to being maxed out.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
If they are maxed out I would agree. I guess if a guy wanted to run the rear 1” lower with springs I wounder if it would work then.
Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
Thats a good idea! I’ll check with them first.
Jason in DLH
Cheeseburger and Fries
Here’s an article about a Full Throttle ride height sensor rod extension (I actually saw this awhile back, but simply forgot!)...
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/how-to-setup-auto-ride-for-lifts.75232/
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/how-to-setup-auto-ride-for-lifts.75232/
Those are nice extension rods but you can do it for a couple dollars with threaded rod.
I just saw this thread. I raised the front of my Yukon 1" to get it more level, by using cheap spacers under the front struts. I did raise the lower attachment of the sensor arm to compensate. For 1' lift on the body, I used 3/8" additional height on the sensor pickup point.
I think using threaded rod is probably a much better approach, especially if you are doing trial and error. I think if you were unsure where it was before you lifted, I would detach one of the pickup points on the rear sensor and find its mid point on the sensor swipe range. Then measure the additional length needed to get that sensor to that spot in its range when attached to the stock locations.
Given the motion ratios involved (a lot of body motion means a little movement in the sensor arm), I would expect without a relearn, measurements will need to be pretty close to make the auto level happy.
I also agree a relearn using a Tech 2 would probably reset the sensor value expectations in the ESCM (it is what you have to do when the ESCM is replaced), but as @Rocketman pointed out, as long as you have enough travel left in sensor for any expected bumps and droop motion.
PS, my rear end height is stock. I can try and get a picture of the sensor at stock height if that will help in getting close first try. Also, I think you will need to space the front sensor as well to avoid codes if you still have the Autoride shocks up front.
I think using threaded rod is probably a much better approach, especially if you are doing trial and error. I think if you were unsure where it was before you lifted, I would detach one of the pickup points on the rear sensor and find its mid point on the sensor swipe range. Then measure the additional length needed to get that sensor to that spot in its range when attached to the stock locations.
Given the motion ratios involved (a lot of body motion means a little movement in the sensor arm), I would expect without a relearn, measurements will need to be pretty close to make the auto level happy.
I also agree a relearn using a Tech 2 would probably reset the sensor value expectations in the ESCM (it is what you have to do when the ESCM is replaced), but as @Rocketman pointed out, as long as you have enough travel left in sensor for any expected bumps and droop motion.
PS, my rear end height is stock. I can try and get a picture of the sensor at stock height if that will help in getting close first try. Also, I think you will need to space the front sensor as well to avoid codes if you still have the Autoride shocks up front.
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