AutoRide delete

[syclnjr]

What’s up everyone.
So I pulled the trigger on lowering my 08 Denali.
Bought Tony’s 2- 4/3-4 kit he sells as well as the airlift bladders for the rear springs.

I searched on here and read through a 15page post on the AutoRide delete methods, but the answers were all over the place.

I have four resistors I bought off EBay for the shocks and my question resides around the height sensors.

the belltech kit comes with new links for the rear sensors so should I use these or just secure the sensor arm in the neutral position? What about the front sensors?

then this brings me to auto level, anyone ever tried using the system to maintain ride height with the airlift bags? I am certain there is a volume issue do you would have to put the initial air in them. I did chat with Tony about it and he said the compressor runs at too high of pressure for the bladder bags. This is understood just curious if any one repurposed the compressor somehow. Would really like to try and figure it out.

If I remove auto level function, do I disconnect the compressor connector? Will it throw a code?

thanks
Mike

 

[Rocket Man]

Hey Mike, glad to see you post. There’s a lot of experience here as opposed to the FB page imo. I’m real familiar with the NBS autoride delete and have read up on deleting it on the NNBS like yours but don’t have direct experience. I’m sure others who have done it will chime in. I believe there’s a fuse labeled ALS in your under hood box that you need to pull AFTER disconnecting the battery, then reconnect the battery. At that point the ride height sensors won’t matter since the system is basically deleted. I think that’s correct... as far as repurposing the compressor- I haven’t heard of anyone successfully doing that. It’s the consensus that it’s easier to either add an aftermarket compressor on a switch or like most people just put the fill ports in an easily accessible place and either carry a portable compressor or use one at home or a gas station.

 

[Big Mama]

Mark is right on all fronts. The rods won’t matter once you pull the fuse but I’d install the new ones anyway so I wouldn’t lose them if I tried to put it back. Listen to Tony on the compressor. Good luck

 

[syclnjr]

ok fair enough, thanks for the insight fellas

the threads that I found on the compresor delete, simple pull the fuse on it to disable and no NIC associated, or as stated, need to pull the fuse and negative lead on the batter to kill it?

 

[Rocket Man]

ok fair enough, thanks for the insight fellas

the threads that I found on the compresor delete, simple pull the fuse on it to disable and no NIC associated, or as stated, need to pull the fuse and negative lead on the batter to kill it?

Pull the negative cable FIRST before pulling the fuse or the BCM will see it and set the message in the dash. Then reconnect the battery. I’m just not sure what the fuse is labeled in an 08 so you need to find it first. I know in some trucks it’s not labeled at all. Someone else can help with that hopefully.

 

[syclnjr]

ok thank you sir

 

[Big Mama]

I believe it’s labeled “auto ride” but check your owner’s manual.

 

[syclnjr]

ok thanks I will find it

 

[Rocket Man]

@iamdub didnt you delete autoride in your nnbs?

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub didnt you delete autoride in your nnbs?

Haven't deleted it yet. I have the resistors and will solder them in when I swap in the Belltech struts and shocks when I lower it. I know the system is still functional but with worn shocks, which explains the firm ride.

the belltech kit comes with new links for the rear sensors so should I use these or just secure the sensor arm in the neutral position? What about the front sensors?

I'd at least install the shorter links. What I plan to do before I lower it and with it at it's stock ride height, is make a sharp and accurate alignment mark on the sensor bodies and adjust the links to put the arms back at those points after lowering. I'll do this to all four so the suspension controller doesn't "see" the change in height so it won't constantly be trying to send voltage to the shocks (actually resistors at this point) in effort to alter the damping. I'll probably deviate from the "neutral" position for the rear sensors if need-be to fine-tune the rear spring rate with a hybrid AirLift bag/OE compressor setup.

then this brings me to auto level, anyone ever tried using the system to maintain ride height with the airlift bags? I am certain there is a volume issue do you would have to put the initial air in them. I did chat with Tony about it and he said the compressor runs at too high of pressure for the bladder bags. This is understood just curious if any one repurposed the compressor somehow. Would really like to try and figure it out.

If I remove auto level function, do I disconnect the compressor connector? Will it throw a code?

I plan to do just this. I did some preliminary testing a couple months back and I feel it would work. The compressor may push a higher pressure than what the bags are rated for, but the compressor is controlled by height position sensors and not by air bladder pressure. It's not gonna keep pumping until it reaches 100+ PSI, it'll stop when it sees the rear end is at X height. The AirLift bags have more surface area than the OEM shock bladders, so they'll have more effect (lift) at a given PSI. This tells me that the OEM compressor will actually work less when adding air to lift the rear. It's designed to pump high PSI into a smaller chamber to achieve X amount of lift. But if you achieve that same amount of lift at a lower PSI, then that's less head pressure the pump has to push. The flip side is the larger volume that it has to fill which affects the amount of time the compressor is running. The way I see it, the compressor should be just fine running a little longer than normal but under less load. I connected a squashed/flattened AirLift bag to the stock air line and fired up the compressor, and it immediately began to inflate. By the way, the compressor has to be plugged in, even if it's not operational, or you will get the "SERVICE SUSPENSION..." message.

I have 3" McG lowering coils that may provide a stock-like ride and load capacity, but I want at least 4" of drop. I have some mystery springs that look like they would drop it at least 4". They look like they'd be too soft, so I want to use the AirLift bags to increase the spring rate to slightly lift the rear and also firm it up to stock-like, but not lift it back up too much. It'll be a balancing act involving adjusting the sensor arm link length once I have the compressor filling the AirLift bags. If it takes too much pressure to lift it where I want it, I have some 1" spacers to regain that initial height so that's one less inch of lift (and less PSI/firmness) required from the AirLift bags.

It may sound complicated, but at this point I'm confident I'll get it dialed in without much hassle.

 

[Big Mama]

Nice write up Chris. Should be a sticky if there isn’t one already. Answers lots of ????

 

[iamdub]

Nice write up Chris. Should be a sticky if there isn’t one already. Answers lots of ????

Lol

Thank you, but lets wait until I know if it actually works like that and is satisfactorily functional!

 

[Rocket Man]

Yeah, let’s wait. If it works it will be the first time that I know of. I know others have tried and given up but I can’t remember exactly why.

 

[Big Mama]

No one needs to know right? I’ll be watching since I tapped out after the same springs and spindles when it came to helper bags. I still have auto ride. For me the 3” springs gave me about 2 1/2” drop even 5 years later.

 

[syclnjr]

Great replies everyone.

iamdub, what you listed was my exact thoughts on making the system work for autolevel, but as noted I dug as far as I could find and it was a common consensus that it wouldn’t work.

I guess one thing to consider with this is, let’s say you have the back end loaded quite a bit and the level sensors trigger the compressor to bring it up in height, it may run into a greater than max pressure issue in the bag if it can’t reach that height, right? I am pretty sure this is how it works.

I was going to mess with it more but am running out of time. When I started the lowering job my Yukon needed brakes, that turned into, lowering of course, ball joints, hubs, etc.

I then had to purchase a spohn pan hard bar to clear the factory exhaust. With my truck being a Denali, the 3.5 inch over the axel tube smacks the factory pan hard bar.

Then I liked the idea of have the DJM relocator for the sway bar and lower control arms worked so picked that up as well.

this thing better ride like a dream lol.

thanks for the insight on the compressor as well.

I did install the shorter links in the rear as well.

will shoot some pics soon. Almost done. Need to get it on the ground so it can settle

thanks

mike

 

[iamdub]

iamdub, what you listed was my exact thoughts on making the system work for autolevel, but as noted I dug as far as I could find and it was a common consensus that it wouldn’t work.

I guess one thing to consider with this is, let’s say you have the back end loaded quite a bit and the level sensors trigger the compressor to bring it up in height, it may run into a greater than max pressure issue in the bag if it can’t reach that height, right? I am pretty sure this is how it works.

Is the system attempting to achieve the proper height when loaded the problem with this proposed setup? I see both sides of the story, but I don't have any personal, real-life experience with how the load bags work. All I can do at this point is go by the advertised numbers. My understanding is that their purpose is to lift a loaded vehicle back to or nearly to it's unloaded height by providing up to 1,000 lbs of additional load capacity for the coil springs. Supposedly, they do this with a maximum of 35PSI. Yes, this is a fraction of what the stock ALC compressor produces. I'm hoping that, since the ALC compressor is controlled by position, that I can get the sensor arm links dialed in just right so that it keeps just the right amount of pressure in the bags to achieve the ride quality I'm after at the ride height I want. I really don't see this being a problem. The wrench in the plans here is when towing since I'm already using the bags a little to make up for the softer coils. If I hitch up a loaded trailer, all that additional load is directly upon the bags. I guess the question here would be whether-or-not the lowering coils have 1,000 lbs lower load capacity compared to the stock coils. A small saving grace here is that I rarely ever tow and when I do, it's a very minimal load- usually a 5x8 mesh bottom trailer with an 800-lb. ZTR mower on a short trip to the gas station. But, I don't wanna have to be concerned about hitching up a heavy trailer one day and, without thinking, start the Tahoe and within a few minutes pop the load bags cuz I forgot about it.

... Yeah, eff it. This Guinea pig is going for it. I may be a martyr, but the knowledge and info is worth it.

I was going to mess with it more but am running out of time. When I started the lowering job my Yukon needed brakes, that turned into, lowering of course, ball joints, hubs, etc.

I'm right there with you! I started collecting lowering parts which led to collecting standard suspension refreshment parts (ball joints, bushings, etc.) and now I'm researching and collecting brake parts. You know- if I'm gonna go so far as to remove the wheels, I may as well replace and/or upgrade everything attached to the frame.

I call it "The WIHIMAW Syndrome" (While I'm Here I May As Well...)

 

[wjburken]

My understanding is that their purpose is to lift a loaded vehicle back to or nearly to it's unloaded height by providing up to 1,000 lbs of additional load capacity for the coil springs. Supposedly, they do this with a maximum of 35PSI. Yes, this is a fraction of what the stock ALC compressor produces. I'm hoping that, since the ALC compressor is controlled by position, that I can get the sensor arm links dialed in just right so that it keeps just the right amount of pressure in the bags to achieve the ride quality I'm after at the ride height I want.

You could simply install an external regulator on the output of your air compressor and set it at 35-40psi so you don't over pressurize your bags while you test the system.

 

[iamdub]

You could simply install an external regulator on the output of your air compressor and set it at 35-40psi so you don't over pressurize your bags while you test the system.

 

[Rocket Man]

Is the system attempting to achieve the proper height when loaded the problem with this proposed setup? I see both sides of the story, but I don't have any personal, real-life experience with how the load bags work. All I can do at this point is go by the advertised numbers. My understanding is that their purpose is to lift a loaded vehicle back to or nearly to it's unloaded height by providing up to 1,000 lbs of additional load capacity for the coil springs. Supposedly, they do this with a maximum of 35PSI. Yes, this is a fraction of what the stock ALC compressor produces. I'm hoping that, since the ALC compressor is controlled by position, that I can get the sensor arm links dialed in just right so that it keeps just the right amount of pressure in the bags to achieve the ride quality I'm after at the ride height I want. I really don't this being a problem. The wrench in the plans here is when towing since I'm already using the bags a little to make up for the softer coils. If I hitch up a loaded trailer, all that additional load is directly upon the bags. I guess the question here would be whether-or-not the lowering coils have 1,000 lbs lower load capacity compared to the stock coils. A small saving grace here is that I rarely ever tow and when I do, it's a very minimal load- usually a 5x8 mesh bottom trailer with an 800-lb. ZTR mower on a short trip to the gas station. But, I don't wanna have to be concerned about hitching up a heavy trailer one day and, without thinking, start the Tahoe and within a few minutes pop the load bags cuz I forgot about it.

... Yeah, eff it. This Guinea pig is going for it. I may be a martyr, but the knowledge and info is worth it.




I'm right there with you! I started collecting lowering parts which led to collecting standard suspension refreshment parts (ball joints, bushings, etc.) and now I'm researching and collecting brake parts. You know- if I'm gonna go so far as to remove the wheels, I may as well replace and/or upgrade everything attached to the frame.

I call it "The WIHIMAW Syndrome" (While I'm Here I May As Well...)

FWIW I tow using my autoride system and it works awesome. I haven’t towed a real heavy trailer but I did load my 12’ enclosed trailer with a couple tons of yard debris and it leveled it out fine. That’s what the system is designed for and even lowered, running 26” wheels with almost no clearance it still worked perfect. I even used it for hauling 7 people and a huge load of gear and food/ beverages for the Hood To Coast relay race one year and I had the 26’s then and I never had a tire rub. So I guess I don’t understand why you guys want to get rid of the system and then still try to auto level....?

 

[syclnjr]

FWIW. I don’t know all the ins and outs of the system and the expectations of the ride sensors etc. the way I understand it, while they share the same sensors, auto ride and auto level are to different things, correct me if I am wrong.

iamdub

I will do some measurements with different air pressures and see where things come out at.
Almost
Done

lol