2008 Tahoe No Start after DOD Delete

[JimTahoe]

I could use some help. I did a DOD delete with a Texas Speed kit including GM non-DOD cam, LS7 lifters, new push rods, and replaced most of the sensors (cam, crank, O2’s, MAF, etc). After completing the rebuild, the engine won’t fire. It will crank without spark. Fuel pressure is fine and all the rockers are moving. I’m getting a P0016 code, but I would have thought it would have fired and run rough without a relearn on the crank sensor. I also had the ECM flashed to deactivate the DOD. I’m stumped and frustrated after 4 months of working on this truck. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[blackbeard_lives]

engine computers are super picky when it comes to crank and cam signals. my buddy had stretched the wire on the crank sensor on his cavalier during an engine swap and it rang good on a meter but needed the wire replaced before the computer was happy enough to fire the spark plugs.

 

[solli5pack]

I could use some help. I did a DOD delete with a Texas Speed kit including GM non-DOD cam, LS7 lifters, new push rods, and replaced most of the sensors (cam, crank, O2’s, MAF, etc). After completing the rebuild, the engine won’t fire. It will crank without spark. Fuel pressure is fine and all the rockers are moving. I’m getting a P0016 code, but I would have thought it would have fired and run rough without a relearn on the crank sensor. I also had the ECM flashed to deactivate the DOD. I’m stumped and frustrated after 4 months of working on this truck. Any help would be appreciated.

Are you confident that whoever flashed the ECM did it correctly? If you have no spark on any cylinders than thats definitely the place to start. Also any particular reason you changed out all the sensors and did you replace with OEM parts? I'm a big fan of if it ain't broke don't fix it so when I did my delete on my 170,000 mile Burb I kept everything I could.

 

[JimTahoe]

SOLVED. I did not seat the cam timing gear all the way even though it bolted in fine. I pulled the camshaft position sensor this morning and saw that the gear shaved a millimeter off of the end. I’m going to remove the timing cover and see if I can seat the gear without having to do the bigger job of removing the diff, oil pan, oil pickup tube, oil pump, etc and straining myself to put the diff back. Wish me luck.

 

[Fless]

SOLVED. I did not seat the cam timing gear all the way even though it bolted in fine. I pulled the camshaft position sensor this morning and saw that the gear shaved a millimeter off of the end. I’m going to remove the timing cover and see if I can seat the gear without having to do the bigger job of removing the diff, oil pan, oil pickup tube, oil pump, etc and straining myself to put the diff back. Wish me luck.

Good luck!

 

[Geotrash]

SOLVED. I did not seat the cam timing gear all the way even though it bolted in fine. I pulled the camshaft position sensor this morning and saw that the gear shaved a millimeter off of the end. I’m going to remove the timing cover and see if I can seat the gear without having to do the bigger job of removing the diff, oil pan, oil pickup tube, oil pump, etc and straining myself to put the diff back. Wish me luck.

Good catch! Yes, you should be able to do what you're attempting without dropping the oil pan at all. That dowel pin is a really common thing to not get seated right.

 

[JimTahoe]

Final Update - I was able to reset the cam gear without having to drop the oil pan. I got the timing aligned and put in a new cam position sensor. Truck fired right up on the first try and drives great now. I was expecting to need to do a relearn on the cam and crank position sensors, but it seems to run great. Thanks to everyone for the input.