Autoride bypass

[Rocket Man]

I bought one of the compressors from Amazon, and it has a lifetime warranty, on my third one, but oh well, it takes me about 30-60 min to swap it out by the time I get the car up in the air and the wheel off (makes it easier but not necessary)

What brand?

 

[okfoz]

Dorman
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJ1HUB6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The original was shot when I got my 2007, no codes, just did not run.
The first Dorman I got on Aug 17, 2014 and lasted about 2 years (I live in MI and it the winters are murder on things like this)
They replaced it for free on June 8, 2016,
In Aug 2018 I had them replace it again and it was not the compressor at all, it was the controller unit above the spare tire. The ride module unit cost me a few hundred, and then I had to have it flashed and that was another $100... I could not do it with a Tech 2 or I would have.

My 2007 level computer was above my spare tire tucked in the frame, it was a PITA to do, especially considering my spare tire would not drop all the way off... Later years apparently the computer is tucked inside the vehicle (where it belongs) Getting it back in was easier than trying to remove it... I had a lift and that helped, I could not imagine trying to do it laying on my back.

I think some of these people and their problems with the compressor might be the computer. I got the code that the air vent was not working properly. I replaced the compressor and got the same code, You can check your pump to see if it still works by jumping the relay that is by the left front wheel well. I ended up figuring out that it was the compressor module that was corroded to death... I am not sure how much the computer controls, I think it is more than just the level, I think it does all of the computations for the ride as well... Not sure tho. IT seems that as soon as you throw a code, the truck would not lift or anything, it just shuts the system down...

 

[okfoz]

This is what I replaced: 15095294 Control Module

They are not cheap, but it fixed my problem. I bought new, and I do remember searching for a new one, it took me some time to find a reasonable price... I had to pay a shop $100 to have it flashed to my truck tho... so keep that in mind.

 

[Rocket Man]

Dorman
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJ1HUB6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The original was shot when I got my 2007, no codes, just did not run.
The first Dorman I got on Aug 17, 2014 and lasted about 2 years (I live in MI and it the winters are murder on things like this)
They replaced it for free on June 8, 2016,
In Aug 2018 I had them replace it again and it was not the compressor at all, it was the controller unit above the spare tire. The ride module unit cost me a few hundred, and then I had to have it flashed and that was another $100... I could not do it with a Tech 2 or I would have.

My 2007 level computer was above my spare tire tucked in the frame, it was a PITA to do, especially considering my spare tire would not drop all the way off... Later years apparently the computer is tucked inside the vehicle (where it belongs) Getting it back in was easier than trying to remove it... I had a lift and that helped, I could not imagine trying to do it laying on my back.

I think some of these people and their problems with the compressor might be the computer. I got the code that the air vent was not working properly. I replaced the compressor and got the same code, You can check your pump to see if it still works by jumping the relay that is by the left front wheel well. I ended up figuring out that it was the compressor module that was corroded to death... I am not sure how much the computer controls, I think it is more than just the level, I think it does all of the computations for the ride as well... Not sure tho. IT seems that as soon as you throw a code, the truck would not lift or anything, it just shuts the system down...

I've heard the Dorman compressors don't last long. I bought the Arnott. 4 years so far but I'm in the NW, no salt.

 

[okfoz]

Salt is killer around here. The Dorman was half price, and for the lifetime warranty, I figured why not... I should add some shielding around it to keep more salt off of it. Michigan sucks in the winter.

 

[General Stalin]

Getting a Service Traction Control and Service Stabilitrack error everytime I drive after swapping to passive shocks. Anyone else get this and know how to fix?

 

[Rocket Man]

Getting a Service Traction Control and Service Stabilitrack error everytime I drive after swapping to passive shocks. Anyone else get this and know how to fix?

You might have unplugged a wheel speed sensor or associated wire harness. The autoride system won’t cause that error.

 

[General Stalin]

You might have unplugged a wheel speed sensor or associated wire harness. The autoride system won’t cause that error.

That would cause my ABS to not work either right? ABS is fine, it's just stabilitrak/TCS error. Only sensor(s) I unplugged where single 2-wire sensors at the top of each shock and soldered the resistors in their places.

 

[johnny lara]

What’s up guys I’m new to the forum and have the same issue service stabilitrak and Tcs any help would appreciate it 2007 Escalade not sure if it’s different


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rocket Man]

That would cause my ABS to not work either right? ABS is fine, it's just stabilitrak/TCS error. Only sensor(s) I unplugged where single 2-wire sensors at the top of each shock and soldered the resistors in their places.

Correct, the ABS light would be on also. There are harnesses in that general area that are easy to unplug accidentally, is why I mentioned it. Just something to go back and look for.

 

[B2sdad]

quick update guys...FWIW I was able to get a hold of the shorter Belltech Ride height rods and install them. All in an attempt to kill the Service Suspension light in the dash, and It worked, sort of.

Before installing the new shorted ride height rods, i would get the error constantly while driving, NOW I get the error only at startup? Im guessing at this point one of the resistors i installed must be bad? I might have to check them with my multi-meter to verify.

 

[RMBX]

Thought I would post up my results with this mod.
2007 AWD Denali Z55/ G69 delete.
I used the Bilstein 4600 shock.
Front # 24-186926
Rear # 24- 186933
25 watt 3.9 ohm green resistors from Amazon. They all ohmed out at 4.2.
Airlift 1000 part number that fits the stock springs is 60912.
Rebuilding the front struts using the Shankly spring compressors made the job easy.
I had disconnected the battery before starting the project, then I only removed fuse #61 ALC COMP for this model.
Everything went great, no service suspension messages.

 

[crawdaddy182]

Thought I would post up my results with this mod.
2007 AWD Denali Z55/ G69 delete.
I used the Bilstein 4600 shock.
Front # 24-186926
Rear # 24- 186933
25 watt 3.9 ohm green resistors from Amazon. They all ohmed out at 4.2.
Airlift 1000 part number that fits the stock springs is 60912.
Rebuilding the front struts using the Shankly spring compressors made the job easy.
I had disconnected the battery before starting the project, then I only removed fuse #61 ALC COMP for this model.
Everything went great, no service suspension messages.
View attachment 246843 View attachment 246844 View attachment 246845 View attachment 246846 View attachment 246847

Was you able to use all the hardware such as spring boots and such with this conversion? I’ve read that you need to buy struts from LS models to make it work. I have a 2013 ltz. Z55 autoride that I want to convert but I can’t find a clear answer on what I need.

 

[klathan2015]

I've done a lot of searching and cannot come up with a straight answer. Can the 25 watt 3.9 ohm resistors work on the 2007+ SUVs? Can anyone confirm or deny this?

I have a 2013 Suburban 1500 4WD LTZ that had the Z55 suspension. I switched to Fox Shocks.

I used 4 - 50 watt 1ohm resistors on each corner; my Service Suspension light was still on. I used 4 - 25 watt 3.9ohm resistors. Service Suspension light was still on.

 

[m1dn]

Reviving from the grave!

Does anyone know if i can replace Z55 just the FRONT with regular struts and keep rear with Air?
Will the rear still work properly and balance the car as expected or you need both front and rear working nicely together?

Rear side seems cheap to fix with parts readily available, so i'd like to keep that.
Front seems quite pricey, FCS out of stock and only Arnott available, with price tag of 650$ CAD + Shipping for EACH.

 

[Geotrash]

Reviving from the grave!

Does anyone know if i can replace Z55 just the FRONT with regular struts and keep rear with Air?
Will the rear still work properly and balance the car as expected or you need both front and rear working nicely together?

Rear side seems cheap to fix with parts readily available, so i'd like to keep that.
Front seems quite pricey, FCS out of stock and only Arnott available, with price tag of 650$ CAD + Shipping for EACH.

Yes, you can do that. You'll just need to add resistors in the front to fool the computer.

 

[livingez_123]

I did this on my 01 Denali and the resistors worked great. I now have a 08 Denali and need to do it to this one. I'm glad to read that I can use the same resistors. Now to decide between Bilsteins, KYB or ??? shocks.

 

[B2sdad]

I have a 2013 Suburban 1500 4WD LTZ that had the Z55 suspension. I switched to Fox Shocks.

I used 4 - 50 watt 1ohm resistors on each corner; my Service Suspension light was still on. I used 4 - 25 watt 3.9ohm resistors. Service Suspension light was still on.

Im in the same boat...I tried the ebay resistors, Service Suspension light still on. Just purchased the 25 watt 3.9 ohm resistors from Amazon, hoping this will Finally kill the Service Suspension light?

 

[NZNC]

Alright guys, apologies if I am reviving an old thread but i think this may hopefully help others. I believe this is the correct solution WITHOUT having to pull the compressor fuse.

I spoke to shocksims by xineering, who were willing to help and were extremely professional, told me that the ride height sensor needs to be clocked so thats its in a range between 1 - 4 volts. This tells the computer that the suspension is in the correct range. More info here on their site in the Bypassing Z55 "Pre-2015" Magneride section located at bottom of their FAQ page

Before even trying to set the ride height sensor, I pried open the sensor link arm that connects from the sensor to the body. First I pulled it off from the sensor with a trim tool then did the same on the lower side that connects to the body. BE VERY CAREFUL and tug gently but firmly with a trim tool because you can easily break the ride height sensor. These photos are for demonstration purposes as installation was already complete at time of photos.

You can see in the picture below that I put a ziptie as tight as possible around the sensor arm and the sensor. To verify voltage changes, I put two t-pins on the middle (green) wire and right (orange) wire of the connector that goes into the ride height sensor and checked the volts when the arm is fully extended with a multimeter in which it read around 5v, once clocked back and zip-tied it is around 2.5 - 2.6 volts. (Third photo)

Lastly I add the resistors as mentioned many times in this thread with T taps, just in case anyone wants to replace the air ride components the connector is still there. I did add electrical grease inside the T taps and connections to prevent moisture build up and corrosion. Currently the wires are taped up to the resistor but will solder it up soon and self tap into frame.

Hope this helps someone!!

 

[NORCAL SS]

Yup I do these daily. If you want more info to help I'm always around