AFM disabler

[wsteele]

You bet. The whole saga is right here, and is still ongoing:

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2012-yukon-xl-denali-6-2l-cam-swap-thread.121671/

With a cam swap that includes AFM delete, it's like pulling a piece of tinsel out of a cat's butt: you keep pulling and find a bunch of other shit that needs cleaning up. You have to pull the heads to get the lifters out, and then while you're in there you might as well replace the timing chain and tensioner. But to do that you have to pull the oil pan, so you might as well replace the oil pump too, etc, etc, etc. And because you touch so many things, the chances of problems occurring as a result of the process go up. But on the upside, you learn A TON, and will never need to fear digging deep on one of these trucks again.

Holy smokes, thanks for the terrific thread.

I have two very full, very large, roll around tool boxes, a dozen rough neck tubs full of speciality tools and a corner of the garage jammed with various roll around lifts, jacks, stands, etc. All of the above relics of my road racing days.

One of the lessons I learned about myself and engines during my racing days was, other than maybe freshening a head or fine "tuning", engine work will always be left to engine specialists. I never won a race until I got that through my head. .

I really appreciate your diligence in posting the whole story of your journey with your AFM delete.

I think I will take your advice and give that Range Tech dongle a go.

 

[Geotrash]

Holy smokes, thanks for the terrific thread.

I have two very full, very large, roll around tool boxes, a dozen rough neck tubs full of speciality tools and a corner of the garage jammed with various roll around lifts, jacks, stands, etc. All of the above relics of my road racing days.

One of the lessons I learned about myself and engines during my racing days was, other than maybe freshening a head or fine "tuning", engine work will always be left to engine specialists. I never won a race until I got that through my head. .

I really appreciate your diligence in posting the whole story of your journey with your AFM delete.

I think I will take your advice and give that Range Tech dongle a go.

Glad it was helpful for you! One word of caution about the Range device, if I may. Because it connects to the OBDII port, there can be circumstances when it will not function, such as if the fuse for that circuit blows, if you have to remove the device to use the port for diagnostics, emissions testing, etc., or if you accidentally kick the device off the thing. In my opinion, the best solution is to have AFM properly tuned out. Black Bear Performance can do this vie email. It's not cheap, but it's permanent and you also benefit from better performance with the tune.

 

[wsteele]

Glad it was helpful for you! One word of caution about the Range device, if I may. Because it connects to the OBDII port, there can be circumstances when it will not function, such as if the fuse for that circuit blows, if you have to remove the device to use the port for diagnostics, emissions testing, etc., or if you accidentally kick the device off the thing. In my opinion, the best solution is to have AFM properly tuned out. Black Bear Performance can do this vie email. It's not cheap, but it's permanent and you also benefit from better performance with the tune.

Thanks for the tips. I will be removing it from time to time (I do have to go in every few years for a so-called 'emissions test", which I think here is mainly seeing if there are any codes that need addressing).

I live in Boise ID, so a trip up north to BB to get an AFM Delete and tune is a possibility in the future (pretty country up there as well), if they offer that service locally. I may give them a call and see what is involved.

 

[89Suburban]

Thanks for the tips. I will be removing it from time to time (I do have to go in every few years for a so-called 'emissions test", which I think here is mainly seeing if there are any codes that need addressing).

I live in Boise ID, so a trip up north to BB to get an AFM Delete and tune is a possibility in the future (pretty country up there as well), if they offer that service locally. I may give them a call and see what is involved.

For what it's worth I also have an '07 with over 300K on it and have been running the Range AFM device for almost 4 years now.

Be aware if you have emissions testing you need to unplug it at least a week before the test so the computer settings don't trip the test results. Somehow they can pick up readings that were caused by the device within a certain amount of time.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Or just about any had held tuning device can disable it. I use a Diablo Intune i3

 

[wsteele]

For what it's worth I also have an '07 with over 300K on it and have been running the Range AFM device for almost 4 years now.

Be aware if you have emissions testing you need to unplug it at least a week before the test so the computer settings don't trip the test results. Somehow they can pick up readings that were caused by the device within a certain amount of time.

Great information, thanks much.

 

[wsteele]

Or just about any had held tuning device can disable it. I use a Diablo Intune i3

Thanks much, I will take a look.

 

[wsteele]

For you who use the Range device, do you heed the warning on the box that you should unplug it any time the car might be sitting for a few days (battery drain)?

I was trying to get my head around the notion that this tiny solid state device will be draining my battery if left plugged in for a few days.

 

[wsteele]

Glad it was helpful for you! One word of caution about the Range device, if I may. Because it connects to the OBDII port, there can be circumstances when it will not function, such as if the fuse for that circuit blows, if you have to remove the device to use the port for diagnostics, emissions testing, etc., or if you accidentally kick the device off the thing. In my opinion, the best solution is to have AFM properly tuned out. Black Bear Performance can do this vie email. It's not cheap, but it's permanent and you also benefit from better performance with the tune.

I got the Range device and installed it, seems to work fine.

I am still mulling the AFM Delete (mechanical) though. My engine was, I guess, one of the worst case examples of the oil consumption issue with AFM. It even was an iron block (LMG), with the standard volume oil pump (versus the high volume pump for the alu block models) and still stuck rings that couldn’t be freed with their injector cleaner bath procedure.

I did check and along with the new valve cover, rings and pistons, they did install the pressure valve deflector to eliminate the oil spray sticking rings going forward. It has been about 30K miles since they installed the pistons, rings and deflector and the engine appears to use no oil and runs very strong in general.

In everything I read about the AFM delete, everyone says plug the oil relief valve. I was wondering if it was really necessary to pull the pan and plug that relief valve? If my understanding is correct on how the system works, I can’t see how leaving it in place would have a negative impact on oil pressure after everything else was installed. Am I wrong about that assumption?

Not having to pull the pan would be a bonus from my point of view (no leaks currently).

 

[BG1988]

Some earlier models (07-08?) came from the factory with AFM hardware in the engines but it was disabled in the factory tuning.

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why cant i shut it off then there should be a manual override
1

it's 7 MPG diffrance between AFM and v8 only (note M4 v8 has different shift points) 4th gear @ 30mph
while 2000 RPM is at 80mph with Super OD