AFM disabler

[wjburken]

why cant i shut it off then there should be a manual override

I’m pretty sure his is referring to the 6.2’s that didn’t have AFM. The 07’s and 08’s had provision the block for AFM but no VLOM or special lifters do nothing was “tuned out”. The valley covers on my 07 & 08 were just flat plates with orings on the bottom sealing off the oil towers that AFM would use. The 5.3’s all had them on the NNBS series.

 

[BG1988]

I’m pretty sure his is referring to the 6.2’s that didn’t have AFM. The 07’s and 08’s had provision the block for AFM but no VLOM or special lifters do nothing was “tuned out”. The valley covers on my 07 & 08 were just flat plates with orings on the bottom sealing off the oil towers that AFM would use. The 5.3’s all had them on the NNBS series.

what about the 4.8L they did not have afm

 

[wjburken]

what about the 4.8L they did not have afm

Brent, I have no idea on the 4.8’s. To be honest, I forgot they put the 4.8 in some of these.

BTW-Do you still have your Hybrid? I thought I read a post a while back where you were trying to sell it, but I see your signature still shows it.

 

[BG1988]

Brent, I have no idea on the 4.8’s. To be honest, I forgot they put the 4.8 in some of these.

BTW-Do you still have your Hybrid? I thought I read a post a while back where you were trying to sell it, but I see your signature still shows it.

yeah i still go it i'm getting my normal 25.5mpg with AFM but I'm sure I can get 26-27 with V8 but I need to get one of those disablers

I stopped using AFM with the engine cold I wait tell it warms up first to operating temperature it seems to solve the issues
I put m4 to disable the AFM tell it warms up it's a 7MPG difference between SUPER OD with v4/v8 and just v8 only ( M4 )..
91 octane only

91oct nets 7MPG more other wise AFM will end up in a death LOOP with 87 octane... and only get 18.5-19 mpg because it gets stuck using the 4 speed gear set instead of EVT mode..
which is exactly the same as v8 only..
so it's totally worth it to pay the extra 30 cents.. for 7mpg more.. This is only a fully optimized route... between time and MPG other wise the "super efficient route " nets 31.1MPG I might have to switch to this route IF gas prices go higher then 4$ but i do have to get up a 45min earlier as i can keep it in "auto stop" for about 20 miles at 29 mph

you can use m3 or #3 to disable AFM (as far as i know or #5 if you have the 6 speed)



I think with a disabler and V8 mode I can get about 26-28mpg just on the fact i could use the SUPER OVERDRIVE gear she's barely spinning at 2,000RPM at 80mph(technically that is gear #8) that is SUPER OVERDRIVE esp since it would be at about 3800 RPM at 80MPH in traditional 4 speed mode


on sunday I almost totaled it out crazy driver in a dodge ram almost side swiped me
Old blind man in pickup truck tries to KILL ME I Brake check him instead - YouTube

btw i did not actually break check him I let it just turn the brake light on by depressing the gas peddle

 

[PG01]

Wow

 

[Geotrash]

I got the Range device and installed it, seems to work fine.

I am still mulling the AFM Delete (mechanical) though. My engine was, I guess, one of the worst case examples of the oil consumption issue with AFM. It even was an iron block (LMG), with the standard volume oil pump (versus the high volume pump for the alu block models) and still stuck rings that couldn’t be freed with their injector cleaner bath procedure.

I did check and along with the new valve cover, rings and pistons, they did install the pressure valve deflector to eliminate the oil spray sticking rings going forward. It has been about 30K miles since they installed the pistons, rings and deflector and the engine appears to use no oil and runs very strong in general.

In everything I read about the AFM delete, everyone says plug the oil relief valve. I was wondering if it was really necessary to pull the pan and plug that relief valve? If my understanding is correct on how the system works, I can’t see how leaving it in place would have a negative impact on oil pressure after everything else was installed. Am I wrong about that assumption?

Not having to pull the pan would be a bonus from my point of view (no leaks currently).

I received that advice, too, but since I was going with a high volume pump I decided to replace the oil relief valve with a new one. Mine had the shield already in place, so no issue there.

The main advantage of the mechanical delete approach is that is gives you the chance to make some upgrades for power. Just got mine back together this weekend and took it for a ride. Made all of the extra work worth it to me to hear that fat cam lope and feel that seat-of-the-pants power.

 

[wjburken]

Wow

Couldn’t help it.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Only in Cali

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[wsteele]

I received that advice, too, but since I was going with a high volume pump I decided to replace the oil relief valve with a new one. Mine had the shield already in place, so no issue there.

The main advantage of the mechanical delete approach is that is gives you the chance to make some upgrades for power. Just got mine back together this weekend and took it for a ride. Made all of the extra work worth it to me to hear that fat cam lope and feel that seat-of-the-pants power.

My oil pressure has always been really good (might be why it sprayed so much before the deflector was installed and stuck those rings...), and confining things to a dull roar with just the lifters and cam, it may be within my energy level to take on. For me, I think I would just go stock specs on the cam, my hot rodding days are kind of in the rear view mirror, my goal with this stuff would be 100% longevity and tractability.

Do you happen to know what pressure that relief valve opens at?

I think I will call Black Bear and see if after the lifter /cam delete and their tune to shut the AFM off, it will still pass smog here in Idaho. When they do the “emissions test” it has always been a mirror to check that the cats are there and a plug up to the ODB port and that’s it.

 

[Geotrash]

My oil pressure has always been really good (might be why it sprayed so much before the deflector was installed and stuck those rings...), and confining things to a dull roar with just the lifters and cam, it may be within my energy level to take on. For me, I think I would just go stock specs on the cam, my hot rodding days are kind of in the rear view mirror, my goal with this stuff would be 100% longevity and tractability.

Do you happen to know what pressure that relief valve opens at?

I think I will call Black Bear and see if after the lifter /cam delete and their tune to shut the AFM off, it will still pass smog here in Idaho. When they do the “emissions test” it has always been a mirror to check that the cats are there and a plug up to the ODB port and that’s it.

Those were my goals too, and a Stage 1 cam would still serve those goals. What sent me over the edge toward the stage 2 was the videos I found of that cam idling, and the conversation I had with the guy from Brian Tooley on the phone after discussing how I use the truck and my priorities. The stage 2 is beastly, but still has decent daily driver manners and is a set/forget package that should live a long, reliable life. The stage 1 is a little less beastly and has OEM-like manners.

I believe the pressure relief valve opens at 55 psi.

 

[wsteele]

Those were my goals too, and a Stage 1 cam would still serve those goals. What sent me over the edge toward the stage 2 was the videos I found of that cam idling, and the conversation I had with the guy from Brian Tooley on the phone after discussing how I use the truck and my priorities. The stage 2 is beastly, but still has decent daily driver manners and is a set/forget package that should live a long, reliable life. The stage 1 is a little less beastly and has OEM-like manners.

I believe the pressure relief valve opens at 55 psi.

Thanks for the info. I just sent BB an email with some questions. My thoughts are maybe I do the AFM delete tune first and then do the lifter/cam delete with a follow up tune to dial everything a little. My main concern at this point would be making sure I will pass an Idaho emissions test after all is said and done.

I know I am probably being overly optimistic, but a straight lifter/cam swap doesn’t sound too daunting. On the other hand, having to spend a lot of time on that cold garage floor (if I dropped the oil pan) might have me looking for a shop for all this stuff.

 

[wjburken]

Thanks for the info. I just sent BB an email with some questions. My thoughts are maybe I do the AFM delete tune first and then do the lifter/cam delete with a follow up tune to dial everything a little. My main concern at this point would be making sure I will pass an Idaho emissions test after all is said and done.

I know I am probably being overly optimistic, but a straight lifter/cam swap doesn’t sound too daunting. On the other hand, having to spend a lot of time on that cold garage floor (if I dropped the oil pan) might have me looking for a shop for all this stuff.

The problem with this "can of worms" is that none of it is technically difficult or requires a lot of skill. It is the domino effect of everything.

To remove the timing chain, you need to remove the oil pump. To remove the oil pump, you need to drop the oil pan so you can get to the bolt holding the pickup tube to the pump. To drop the oil pan on a AWD Denali, you have to drop your front Differential. To drop your differential, you need to loosen your steering rack. I think somewhere in there, the brace that goes between the control arm mounts comes out as well. Kind of a leg bone connected to the hip bone thing. None of it is complex stuff, just a pain to do whether you're on jack stands like I was or have a lift.

 

[wsteele]

The problem with this "can of worms" is that none of it is technically difficult or requires a lot of skill. It is the domino effect of everything.

To remove the timing chain, you need to remove the oil pump. To remove the oil pump, you need to drop the oil pan so you can get to the bolt holding the pickup tube to the pump. To drop the oil pan on a AWD Denali, you have to drop your front Differential. To drop your differential, you need to loosen your steering rack. I think somewhere in there, the brace that goes between the control arm mounts comes out as well. Kind of a leg bone connected to the hip bone thing. None of it is complex stuff, just a pain to do whether you're on jack stands like I was or have a lift.

Yep, I wonder what is in me to be so optimistic, when I know the truth. I mean decades of experience and I still am expecting push, pull, click, click, that was easy. Maybe I will just wait...

 

[wsteele]

Just an update, I got a response from BB and they can't opine on the ability for me to pass Idaho emissions after any software AFM delete and tune using their setup (regardless on whether I have done the mechanical AFM delete or just the software delete). Probably just a legal exposure thing. They firmly stated, it is for "off road use" only.

Maybe I will spring for one of those clone Tech 2's and do the SW AFM delete myself. It wouldn't be bad to have one around for the long term. I have to say, looking at the video training for the Tech 2, seems pretty primitive compared to what is available today, even just the $25 dongle gadget I got for my iPhone. Of course, I can't do any of the ECM changes with the dongle gadget...

 

[gooffeyguy]

I'm pretty sure a Tech2 (or clone) can't disable/enable AFM. I know I haven't seen any menu options for it when using the Tech2

 

[wsteele]

I'm pretty sure a Tech2 (or clone) can't disable/enable AFM. I know I haven't seen any menu options for it when using the Tech2

I have been going through some of the training videos and so far no joy as well. Seems kind of strange as it might be something you wanted to do during a diagnostic exercise at least.

 

[Sparksalot]

I got another Range device today, so now each of the Hoes has one.

 

[wsteele]

I got another Range device today, so now each of the Hoes has one.

I have had mine in for a few days, pretty seamless. So seamless, I will probably forget it is there when I go for my next emissions test...

I am looking at the Diablo products, to see if they can do the diagnostic telemetry stuff I would like (real time parameter monitoring, etc.), as well as turning AFM off. If so, I may spring for that and sell my Range gadget.

I have just about made up my mind I am not going to do a mechanical delete as the only way it makes sense financially is for me to do it myself and right now I just don’t have the energy to tackle it. If I do get something like the Diablo Predator to turn the AFM off, I think that will be it until my hand is forced with a reman.

At least one of the usual suspects in the reman world is offering AFM deleted remans (either Jasper or Fraser, can’t remember), but that would be a good option if and when a new engine becomes the cost effective choice.

 

[Idriveaho]

I’ve had the range device for almost a year now. It gives me a little peace knowing I shouldn’t have issues since I’m doing regular oil changes as well. I’m thinking of getting a Diablo tuner though.

 

[wsteele]

I’ve had the range device for almost a year now. It gives me a little peace knowing I shouldn’t have issues since I’m doing regular oil changes as well. I’m thinking of getting a Diablo tuner though.

I just sold my Range device. I got a Diablo Predator and will turn my AFM off as soon as my testing on the effects of the Disabler on drive cycle monitors are done. I am at 350 miles and about 11 cold starts, still have one monitor in "not Passed" status. It is the evap monitor, so I think I would pass emissions in any case.