AFM Delete Double Checking

[iamdub]

I've been reading through these comments and some of the other AFM delete threads and I think I'm a bit confused on what oil pump to go with, I read some people say to swap my high volume for a standard volume pump. Other things I read is that people didn't plug their oil relief port in their oil pan.

Here is what I have ordered, let me know if I need to change anything up. I have a 2008 chevy 5.3 LMG motor:
- Melling M295 standard volume oil pump
- This summit racing oil relief plug: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/irp-po-m14-kit

Been working on my Tahoe in 100+ degree heat is no fun, I feel a little heat stroke typing this out. Removed the front diff to make way for the oil pan this morning but can't work much past noon these days gets too hot. At this rate it will take another 2 or 3 weekends to get my Tahoe back on the road.

You'll be fine with that setup. I never knew anyone made plugs specifically for that relief port in the pan. I bought an oil pan drain plug (For a Honda, I think) from AutoZone and used an aluminum crush washer I had on hand. For simplicity's sake, I'd definitely go with that one from IR.

On the subject, you have any plans to plug the AFM towers or just using the valley cover? I tapped mine for screw-in plugs (engine out) but later learned of a super easy and cheap solution for an engine still in the bay:

 

[Dustin Jackson]

You'll be fine with that setup. I never knew anyone made plugs specifically for that relief port in the pan. I bought an oil pan drain plug (For a Honda, I think) from AutoZone and used an aluminum crush washer I had on hand. For simplicity's sake, I'd definitely go with that one from IR.

On the subject, you have any plans to plug the AFM towers or just using the valley cover? I tapped mine for screw-in plugs (engine out) but later learned of a super easy and cheap solution for an engine still in the bay:

@iamdub I hadn’t thought about it. I was just relying on the orings in the new valley cover to do that I suppose. Is it needed to have something like that installed to block the passage?

 

[Geotrash]

@iamdub I hadn’t thought about it. I was just relying on the orings in the new valley cover to do that I suppose. Is it needed to have something like that installed to block the passage?

The plugs will solve the problem for good. The o-rings are the GM solution for engines like the L92 that have the towers but no AFM, so it's a validated choice also. The problem with the o-rings is that they can harden over time and start bleeding off oil pressure. I don't know of anyone here who's had a problem with them, but it's still a potential issue.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@swathdiver @Geotrash Well I suppose I'll be doing that while I'm in here. I've been trying to resist rebuilding everything I come across but this seems quick and easy enough. Do you guys think I should put in new trans cooler quick-connect o-rings?
Also it appears that I do not have an oil cooler, just a little block off plate on those ports. How hard would it be to add an oil cooler?

 

[Geotrash]

@swathdiver @Geotrash Well I suppose I'll be doing that while I'm in here. I've been trying to resist rebuilding everything I come across but this seems quick and easy enough. Do you guys think I should put in new trans cooler quick-connect o-rings?
Also it appears that I do not have an oil cooler, just a little block off plate on those ports. How hard would it be to add an oil cooler?

I wouldn't bother with the o-rings unless they're leaking. You'll probably need to replace the radiator before your existing ones fail, and that will come with new o-rings built in.

If your radiator doesn't have an oil-water cooler built-in on the driver's side, then you'll either need a radiator that does or you'll need to add an external cooler. If you go the radiator route, you'll need to figure a way to get the cooler hard lines snaked through, which is impossible without removing the engine mount on the driver's side. Personally, I don't think it's worth the trouble unless you're doing heavy towing.

 

[Just Fishing]

Plugs?
Towers have holes?

What is this?

(I'll use any excuse to flex my block )

Luck of the draw really, block was on sale when I was doing my afm/5.3 delete.
a little something from 2021.
factory new GM block, towers in place but not drilled for AFM.

This was about the same price as having my 5.3 block machined but minus the wait.

I'm still using the valley cover that has the o-rings built in.
While I don't need the o-rings, I have them in place, I figure at a minimum it prevents some false knock should the cover make contact with the towers for some reason.

I don't think you really need to worry about plugging the holes + it's just one more thing to worry about.


On the other hand, you could plug the towers and leave the afm valley cover in place, saving some $$ if you just use hardware store plugs.
Drill and tap for maximum awesome like @iamdub did.
You just need a way to clean out the oil passageways.

Compressed air, .50 cal nylon bristle rifle brush, lifters out, and with both front and rear engine covers off to get all of the trash out.



I might have my valley cover available soon if you want to try and save some money.
I'm thinking about swapping it out for a different style that has the PCV breather built into it vs the valve cover breather.

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub I hadn’t thought about it. I was just relying on the orings in the new valley cover to do that I suppose. Is it needed to have something like that installed to block the passage?

What Dave said:

The plugs will solve the problem for good. The o-rings are the GM solution for engines like the L92 that have the towers but no AFM, so it's a validated choice also. The problem with the o-rings is that they can harden over time and start bleeding off oil pressure. I don't know of anyone here who's had a problem with them, but it's still a potential issue.

The VLOM/valley cover gaskets will shrink with age and temp swings, causing the bolts to be loose. The built-in O-rings already being shrunken plus the loose cover results in oil leaking out, which lowers the pressure when it gets bad enough. That A-37 bearing has doubled in price since I looked into it last. But, for $16 and 10 minutes, plugging them is a cheap guarantee that they'll never be a problem.

 

[iamdub]

If your radiator doesn't have an oil-water cooler built-in on the driver's side, then you'll either need a radiator that does or you'll need to add an external cooler. If you go the radiator route, you'll need to figure a way to get the cooler hard lines snaked through, which is impossible without removing the engine mount on the driver's side. Personally, I don't think it's worth the trouble unless you're doing heavy towing.

Is this a 4WD thing? I replaced my radiator with one that had an EOC and installed an OEM cooler line set. It took some twisting and turning, but it went in fairly easily. Mine's 2WD, though.

 

[iamdub]

Plugs?
Towers have holes?

What is this?


View attachment 373929
(I'll use any excuse to flex my block )

Luck of the draw really, block was on sale when I was doing my afm/5.3 delete.
a little something from 2021.
factory new GM block, towers in place but not drilled for AFM.

This was about the same price as having my 5.3 block machined but minus the wait.

I'm still using the valley cover that has the o-rings built in.
While I don't need the o-rings, I have them in place, I figure at a minimum it prevents some false knock should the cover make contact with the towers for some reason.

I don't think you really need to worry about plugging the holes + it's just one more thing to worry about.


On the other hand, you could plug the towers and leave the afm valley cover in place, saving some $$ if you just use hardware store plugs.
Drill and tap for maximum awesome like @iamdub did.
You just need a way to clean out the oil passageways.

Compressed air, .50 cal nylon bristle rifle brush, lifters out, and with both front and rear engine covers off to get all of the trash out.



I might have my valley cover available soon if you want to try and save some money.
I'm thinking about swapping it out for a different style that has the PCV breather built into it vs the valve cover breather.

I wouldn't even risk drilling with an engine in the bay! That's metal shavings directly injected into the oil galleys. All it takes is one tiny speck of metal to take out a bearing or lifter.

 

[Geotrash]

Is this a 4WD thing? I replaced my radiator with one that had an EOC and installed an OEM cooler line set. It took some twisting and turning, but it went in fairly easily. Mine's 2WD, though.

Must be. I couldn't find a way to finagle the old cooler lines out and get the new ones in without removing the engine mount. Not enough room to maneuver.

 

[Just Fishing]

I wouldn't even risk drilling with an engine in the bay! That's metal shavings directly injected into the oil galleys. All it takes is one tiny speck of metal to take out a bearing or lifter.

Ditto.
I would prefer a full engine dissembly so you would be clear to use soapy water and a garden hose to ensure it gets a full rinse along with brushing.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Well guys took the morning off work to take the cam out and here is what I found. At this point I am pretty bummed out, I don't know if I should just throw new cam bearings in it or look into having the bottom end rebuilt. I figure if the cam bearings are this bad the rest of it is probably the same condition. I don't want to rebuild half a motor when the rest of it is on its last legs. What should I do?

 

[TollKeeper]

I would replace the cam bearings only, just to match the new cam.

Thats assuming you had no other issues, audibly, or visually with the engine that would create un-ease.

 

[Geotrash]

Well guys took the morning off work to take the cam out and here is what I found. At this point I am pretty bummed out, I don't know if I should just throw new cam bearings in it or look into having the bottom end rebuilt. I figure if the cam bearings are this bad the rest of it is probably the same condition. I don't want to rebuild half a motor when the rest of it is on its last legs. What should I do?
View attachment 373973
View attachment 373974

Was it just that one cam bearing or were all of them like that? That one looks like the proximity to the damaged lobe was its undoing. Replacing a cam bearing can be done with the engine in the truck as I understand it, but I've not personally done it. I do agree with Brian though that rebuilding the whole bottom end shouldn't be needed.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@Geotrash The bearing in the picture was at the very front and the damaged lob was near the rear, all of the bearing lobes on the camshaft had scoring on them so I assume the rest of the cam bearings look like this first one. I am doing research on how to replace cam bearings for now

 

[Geotrash]

@Geotrash The bearing in the picture was at the very front and the damaged lob was near the rear, all of the bearing lobes on the camshaft had scoring on them so I assume the rest of the cam bearings look like this first one. I am doing research on how to replace cam bearings for now

Bummer man. My heart goes out to you. Sorry for the $hitty luck.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Thinking about just using the cam bearings or throwing a shortblock in it. Any recommendation on where to get a shortblock from?
What about these 2?

GM Chevrolet 5.3 325 Short Block 2007-2009 Cast Iron Block with AMF - NO CORE REQUIRED -

LMG Short Block Engine Sale 5.3 Vortec, Remanufactured not Rebuilt

Our LMG 5.3 Vortec liter Short Block Engine is on Sale. Superior to a rebuilt LMG Engine, this OEM motor is completely remanufactured with upgraded parts.

spprecision.com

 

[FasterBass]

Thinking about just using the cam bearings or throwing a shortblock in it. Any recommendation on where to get a shortblock from?
What about these 2?

GM Chevrolet 5.3 325 Short Block 2007-2009 Cast Iron Block with AMF - NO CORE REQUIRED -

LMG Short Block Engine Sale 5.3 Vortec, Remanufactured not Rebuilt

Our LMG 5.3 Vortec liter Short Block Engine is on Sale. Superior to a rebuilt LMG Engine, this OEM motor is completely remanufactured with upgraded parts.

spprecision.com

Honestly if it was me, id just grab a good used 5.3 with low miles, replace the rear main seal and get rid of the vlom/afm system and call it a day. You’ll have less down time. Im sure you dont want to take the engine out of the truck but at this point you just have to rip the bandaid off.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Honestly if it was me, id just grab a good used 5.3 with low miles, replace the rear main seal and get rid of the vlom/afm system and call it a day. You’ll have less down time. Im sure you dont want to take the engine out of the truck but at this point you just have to rip the bandaid off.

@FasterBass In my research it looks like a pulled motor would be like $3k VS a $1.5k shortblock from the links I sent earlier. I’m open to all ideas

 

[Dustin Jackson]

After some consulting it turns out you aren't supposed to look at the cam bearings so that was my mistake. I think I am going to proceed with my AFM delete and pretend I never saw the cam bearings.