AFM Delete Double Checking

[Dustin Jackson]

Hello Guys I am in the process of ordering all the parts I will need in order to complete my AFM delete on my 08 5.3 but I have questions about the oil pump and pressure relief valve situation.

Here is a list of the parts I have ordered so far:

• LS2 Lifter Trays
• LS2 Chain Dampener (Recommend Replacement for Chain Tensioner)
• Timing Cover Gasket
• Front Crankshaft Seal
• Water Pump Gaskets
• Delphi LS7-Style Lifters
• TSP/GM Head Gaskets
• ARP Head Bolts
• L92 Valley Cover
• GM Crank Bolt
• Cam 3 bolt conversion sprocket kit
• L33 camshaft
• Exhaust gaskets
• Valve cover gaskets

Parts I am wondering about:

• Standard flow oil pump
• Pressure relief plug in oil pan
• oil pan gasket

Can I get away with using old high-volume oil pump AND not plugging the oil relieve vale in the oil pan?

 

[Just Fishing]

Exhaust gasket
GM Genuine Parts 12617944 Exhaust Manifold Gasket

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q13TQI/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

My experience with the high-volume pump was not great.
I had some oil flooding in my cylinder head, that lead to some oil burning.

I also used some LS7 lifters that advertised "extra oil flow", I want to tear them out, gut them, and post their heads on spears.
then line my garage to keep other lifters in fear of me.

I'm using the felpro pan & front cover gasket.
seal corners using black rtv.

I plugged my relief in the oil pan.

before i had the high flow pump + left the relief in place.
it bypassed a ton.
it put bubbles in my oil.
it looked weird.


I can go on, I made lots of part selection mistakes.
I also missed an issue with the rear cam bearing, but mine came apart due to signs of metal/copper colored stuff in my oil.


I would also invest in an oil filter cutting/opening tool, you would want to know early if you damaged a cam bearing or something.
IIRC i got mine off of ebay for about $30 shipped.

 

[Just Fishing]

Oh yeah, when doing the valve cover gaskets.
I found OEM glued them in or some nonsense.




I used black rtv this last go around to glue the seals into the valve cover.
it worked wonderfully.

Having to remove the valve covers to continue to add more and more lifter preload has been really nice.
before the seals would fall out and get longer and longer.




I see the cam sprocket mentioned.
I also assume you have a full timing chain in there with the crank sprocket and gen 3 type chain tensioner?

I used these for my head bolts, no complaints.

SUM-910211
Summit Racing SUM-910211 - Summit Racing® Cylinder Head Bolt Kits

If I ever needed something stronger, I would also change my headgasket to lower my compression with that.
So i felt it was a good move.


FEL-TCS45993
Fel-Pro TCS45993 - Fel-Pro Timing Cover Gaskets

FEL-72462
Fel-Pro 72462 - Fel-Pro Oil Cooler Mounting Gaskets and Seals

 

[Just Fishing]

don't forget pushrods.
I think they were 7.4in length.
but you would probably want to verify that with an adjustable since it's $100 for each guess.

 

[TollKeeper]

7.397 Actually. Surprisingly, they used the same pushrods with or without AFM/DOD.
I ordered -1- from Autozone, and they gave me a box of 20.. For $5!

Theres a couple "while your in there" parts I would recommend.
Cam Position Sensor
Crank Position Sensor
Oil Pressure Sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor (just to have, the sensor is in a vulnerable location. If you need it, you got it. If not, return it)
Spark Plugs/Wires
Starter (Maybe?)

 

[Tonyv__]

Hello Guys I am in the process of ordering all the parts I will need in order to complete my AFM delete on my 08 5.3 but I have questions about the oil pump and pressure relief valve situation.

Here is a list of the parts I have ordered so far:

• LS2 Lifter Trays
• LS2 Chain Dampener (Recommend Replacement for Chain Tensioner)
• Timing Cover Gasket
• Front Crankshaft Seal
• Water Pump Gaskets
• Delphi LS7-Style Lifters
• TSP/GM Head Gaskets
• ARP Head Bolts
• L92 Valley Cover
• GM Crank Bolt
• Cam 3 bolt conversion sprocket kit
• L33 camshaft
• Exhaust gaskets
• Valve cover gaskets

Parts I am wondering about:

• Standard flow oil pump
• Pressure relief plug in oil pan
• oil pan gasket

Can I get away with using old high-volume oil pump AND not plugging the oil relieve vale in the oil pan?

No personal experience but when I was fixing my 6.0 and considered high flow oil pump because I thought it would help with my low oil pressure. I was told from multiple people that the high output pumps are really only good for racing applications not daily driving

 

[Geotrash]

Hello Guys I am in the process of ordering all the parts I will need in order to complete my AFM delete on my 08 5.3 but I have questions about the oil pump and pressure relief valve situation.

Here is a list of the parts I have ordered so far:

• LS2 Lifter Trays
• LS2 Chain Dampener (Recommend Replacement for Chain Tensioner)
• Timing Cover Gasket
• Front Crankshaft Seal
• Water Pump Gaskets
• Delphi LS7-Style Lifters
• TSP/GM Head Gaskets
• ARP Head Bolts
• L92 Valley Cover
• GM Crank Bolt
• Cam 3 bolt conversion sprocket kit
• L33 camshaft
• Exhaust gaskets
• Valve cover gaskets

Parts I am wondering about:

• Standard flow oil pump
• Pressure relief plug in oil pan
• oil pan gasket

Can I get away with using old high-volume oil pump AND not plugging the oil relieve vale in the oil pan?

I went with a high volume pump in my 6.2, and installed a new bypass valve in the oil pan. I used a Melling pump, and kept the spring that it came with for pressure. No problems, and I’m glad I chose the set up that I did.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@Just Fishing Fortunately my oil looks good still, will be working to remove the cam this weekend and I can continue my inspection of the engine.

@TollKeeper My pushrods look just a tad worn so I am going to replace those as well. My philosophy is that the factory sensors are the best and unless I have a problem I trust them more than the ones you can buy these days. But I did destroy my wires when I removed them from my spark plugs, they were a replacement red AcDelco set and I broke about 3 getting them off my spark plugs and I don't remember breaking any of the factory wires when they were due for replacement...

@Tonyv__ I don't currently have low oil pressure so I am worried about having too much oil pressure while using this high volume pump, since I will have to drop the pan anyways I think I am going to put in a standard pump and plug the relief valve. ill need an oil pan gasket too

@Geotrash I considered keeping the factory pump and not plugging the bypass valve but I think I should go with the recommendation just to be safe. If you were me would you just keep the factory oil pump and not plug the bypass in the oil pan?

 

[swathdiver]

Parts I am wondering about:

• Standard flow oil pump
• Pressure relief plug in oil pan
• oil pan gasket

Can I get away with using old high-volume oil pump AND not plugging the oil relieve vale in the oil pan?

You don't need additional pressure or volume over stock with regards to the oil pump. If you have an iron block, run the M295 (12710303) pump, if an aluminum block run the M365 (12710304) pump.

 

[Geotrash]

@Geotrash I considered keeping the factory pump and not plugging the bypass valve but I think I should go with the recommendation just to be safe. If you were me would you just keep the factory oil pump and not plug the bypass in the oil pan?

If I had it to do over again, I would plug the relief valve and install a new standard volume Melling pump.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@swathdiver @Geotrash Does a new oil pump come with the pickup O-ring? Also do you think I can reuse my rocker arms? Just got confirmation that my parts from Texas Speed will arrive this week so I am looking to get the rest of my parts ordered.

Also do you have a recommendation on a flywheel stopper? I am havinga hard time spending $40 on the one from summit for 1 time use.

 

[TollKeeper]

They should be re-useable. You just have to look at the end cups, and verify condition, and wear patterns.

 

[Geotrash]

@swathdiver @Geotrash Does a new oil pump come with the pickup O-ring? Also do you think I can reuse my rocker arms? Just got confirmation that my parts from Texas Speed will arrive this week so I am looking to get the rest of my parts ordered.

Also do you have a recommendation on a flywheel stopper? I am havinga hard time spending $40 on the one from summit for 1 time use.

Yes. Your new oil pump will come with 2 o-rings. Be sure to use the one that the manufacturer specifies for your engine. It's usually the thicker of the two on truck motors.

And yes, you can reuse your rocker arms if they're in good condition.

 

[iamdub]

7.397 Actually. Surprisingly, they used the same pushrods with or without AFM/DOD.
I ordered -1- from Autozone, and they gave me a box of 20.. For $5!

Theres a couple "while your in there" parts I would recommend.
Cam Position Sensor
Crank Position Sensor
Oil Pressure Sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor (just to have, the sensor is in a vulnerable location. If you need it, you got it. If not, return it)
Spark Plugs/Wires
Starter (Maybe?)

7.385", actually.

The rods are the same cuz the difference in lifter length is accommodated for by the AFM lobes on the cam. This is why those that have done an AFM delete but left the cam in place had low compression on half the cylinders.

 

[iamdub]

Hello Guys I am in the process of ordering all the parts I will need in order to complete my AFM delete on my 08 5.3 but I have questions about the oil pump and pressure relief valve situation.

Here is a list of the parts I have ordered so far:

• LS2 Lifter Trays
• LS2 Chain Dampener (Recommend Replacement for Chain Tensioner)
• Timing Cover Gasket
• Front Crankshaft Seal
• Water Pump Gaskets
• Delphi LS7-Style Lifters
• TSP/GM Head Gaskets
• ARP Head Bolts
• L92 Valley Cover
• GM Crank Bolt
• Cam 3 bolt conversion sprocket kit
• L33 camshaft
• Exhaust gaskets
• Valve cover gaskets

Parts I am wondering about:

• Standard flow oil pump
• Pressure relief plug in oil pan
• oil pan gasket

Can I get away with using old high-volume oil pump AND not plugging the oil relieve vale in the oil pan?

If your oil pressure is fine as-is, a new direct-replacement pump is all you need. You don't HAVE to plug the relief valve port in the pan, you can just leave the valve in place. It'll act as a secondary pressure relief. I plugged mine and am relying on the one in the pump (M295 that I ported) to handle the relieving duties. It can only do so much and my pressure hits mid-70s near 6K RPM. For normal/mildly spirited driving, it stays within the factory range (35-55) and hovers at 42-44 at highway speeds. So, it's like a "strong" factory range. With the other valve in place, you might max out at around 55ish near your WOT shift point (5,500ish?)

I'm under the impression that the stock pump for the AFM engines IS a high-volume pump. That's why I say to just get a new stock replacement if your current pressures are fine.

 

[TollKeeper]

TF??? My parts list shows Melling MPR-614 7.397 ??

 

[iamdub]

TF??? My parts list shows Melling MPR-614 7.397 ??

It could be the way they're measured. The tips where the holes are in the ball ends are chamfered flat. Some measure the actual length as it is, in hand. Some add the length as if that was a full ball. Mechanically, this is accurate since that would be the distance from the seat in the lifter to the seat in the rocker. But, if you were to put a caliper on the rod itself, the shorter number is what you'd get. Tomato/potahto.

 

[Just Fishing]

If your oil pressure is fine as-is, a new direct-replacement pump is all you need. You don't HAVE to plug the relief valve port in the pan, you can just leave the valve in place. It'll act as a secondary pressure relief. I plugged mine and am relying on the one in the pump (M295 that I ported) to handle the relieving duties. It can only do so much and my pressure hits mid-70s near 6K RPM. For normal/mildly spirited driving, it stays within the factory range (35-55) and hovers at 42-44 at highway speeds. So, it's like a "strong" factory range. With the other valve in place, you might max out at around 55ish near your WOT shift point (5,500ish?)

I'm under the impression that the stock pump for the AFM engines IS a high-volume pump. That's why I say to just get a new stock replacement if your current pressures are fine.

That makes me feel a little better.
new engine and all, I'm getting 32-35psi hot at idle (500rpm)
It felt a little low to me, but I also have extra oil going to my thrust bearing surface, and those annoying lifters of mine that feature "extra top end oiling" bs.

 

[iamdub]

That makes me feel a little better.
new engine and all, I'm getting 32-35psi hot at idle (500rpm)
It felt a little low to me, but I also have extra oil going to my thrust bearing surface, and those annoying lifters of mine that feature "extra top end oiling" bs.

That pressure is perfectly fine for hot idle. Considering the extra "leaks" your system has, I'd say your pressure is technically better than stock.

Mine are a little higher also because I run 10W-40 diesel oil.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

I've been reading through these comments and some of the other AFM delete threads and I think I'm a bit confused on what oil pump to go with, I read some people say to swap my high volume for a standard volume pump. Other things I read is that people didn't plug their oil relief port in their oil pan.

Here is what I have ordered, let me know if I need to change anything up. I have a 2008 chevy 5.3 LMG motor:
- Melling M295 standard volume oil pump
- This summit racing oil relief plug: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/irp-po-m14-kit

Been working on my Tahoe in 100+ degree heat is no fun, I feel a little heat stroke typing this out. Removed the front diff to make way for the oil pan this morning but can't work much past noon these days gets too hot. At this rate it will take another 2 or 3 weekends to get my Tahoe back on the road.