ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL RECOVERY HOOKS

[Ghost10]

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Westin/45-0000S.html

 

[Ghost10]

If you do a little searching you’ll find these little metal brackets that’s all you need to relocate

 

[DenaliBQ]

Those are for the parking sensors I have that already we are talking about the radar module behind the drivers tow hook for the emergency braking ….. that’s a parking sensor relocation kit for push bars

 

[Ghost10]

This is for the gmc yuks

Westin 2014-2018 Chevrolet/GMC Truck/SUV Sensor Relocator - Black

Front Sensor Relocator by Westin(R). This product is made of high-quality materials to serve you for years to come. Designed using state-of-the-art technology and with customers in mind this product by Westin will last a lifetime. It will meet your needs and deliver great quality at an...

eliteracefab.com

 

[Ghost10]

Those are for the parking sensors I have that already we are talking about the radar module behind the drivers tow hook for the emergency braking ….. that’s a parking sensor relocation kit for push bars

Oh I misred I’m sorry
I thought that sensor was in the rear view mirror ?

 

[Mitchell0827]

Thanks for your responses. There is no way that this seemingly simple mod hasn’t been performed by someone in the past. They offer ACC relocation kits for the Ford trucks and the Dodge Ram trucks. Hard to believe that nobody has manufactured a Yukon or Tahoe ACC relocation bracket….. YET here I am, after an exhausted search online and locally… there is literally no option for this Mod that is readily available for purchase. If I had more time on my hands… I would get the spec sheet pertaining to the field of vision and angles that the ACC module needs to perform properly and safely. Then would simply go to my local salvage yard and cut the pigtail and whatever length I would need from the harness. Finally, I would manufacture some brackets mimicking what Ford and Dodge relocation kits offer for behind the grill or bumper mounting. Or just buy their kit and modify to work with what I create.
Seems someone could easily replicate the other manufacturer's design with a little research, time, and elbow grease. Willing to bet that individual would make some serious cash. Am I wrong about the way I would go about this? Any other thoughts on the subject?

 

[cardershack]

I have a 2020 Tahoe LT 4wd. I just purchased the recovery hooks and front fascia piece with the holes for the tow hooks. Reading through this thread I’m realizing I may be running into the adaptive cruise control problem. I’m going to verify tomorrow by looking under the truck but I have the buttons on the steering wheel for ACC.

Has anyone figured out how to add recovery hooks with ACC? I really need the recovery hooks in hunting season and will be pretty bummed if I can’t add them. I don’t want to not use ACC because I bough the truck as a safe family vehicle but I launch boats in some off the beaten path places in hunting season and it’s common to need a pull from time to time. Hopefully someone has figured out a way around this by now. Appreciate the help in advance

 

[Mitchell0827]

I have a 2020 Tahoe LT 4wd. I just purchased the recovery hooks and front fascia piece with the holes for the tow hooks. Reading through this thread I’m realizing I may be running into the adaptive cruise control problem. I’m going to verify tomorrow by looking under the truck but I have the buttons on the steering wheel for ACC.

Has anyone figured out how to add recovery hooks with ACC? I really need the recovery hooks in hunting season and will be pretty bummed if I can’t add them. I don’t want to not use ACC because I bough the truck as a safe family vehicle but I launch boats in some off the beaten path places in hunting season and it’s common to need a pull from time to time. Hopefully someone has figured out a way around this by now. Appreciate the help in advance

@cardershack

So, I actually never ended up getting an answer that would work from anyone. I’d asked every single website that sold bracket relocation kits for Fords and Toyotas, with no success.


Out of sheer frustration I did the following-

What I did was disconnected both of my batteries (I added the PPV two battery system last year). I then took the Positive and Negative cables, zip tied them together overnight to ensure all power had left the vehicle. I knew whatever I was going to do, I didn’t want the ECM, BCM, or whatever other sensors to realize what I’d done.

The following day, I removed the bumper cover and stared at the ACC module and bracket for an hour or so, cursing the engineers at GM who came up with this ridiculous setup.

Then I started looking at the wiring harness that is somewhat running along the driver side frame rail. There are two plastic clips that hold the portion of the harness that goes to the ACC module to the frame rail. I removed those clips and unplugged the ACC module.

Then I disconnected the ground cable from the frame rail, just to the right of where the ACC module is located (it’s only one bolt).

I realized that the only logical (best chance) place to relocate this module so that the tow hooks wouldn’t interfere with its field of vision was exactly center of the crash bar, beneath it, almost flush, slightly back with about 1/4” of crash bar cliff above (to allow the crash bar to still be the furthest solid object forward).

To my amazement, there was just enough harness coming off the frame rail for it to reach the new location! I had to snake the harness up and over the frame rail, then over to the new location.

There is only the lower portion of thin plastic on the front bumper cover in that area, and it being directly centered between the two tow hooks, it was the best chance the Module would have to not encounter interference issues.

No science or engineering here, this is all me basically choosing the best logical route (that could be easily reversed if it didn’t work) to give me the best odds for success IMO.

Then I unbolted the ACC module from the frame rail, realized it would not come out even unbolted without removing the crash bar. So six bolts later, the crash bar is off and out comes the module with bracket intact.

Now, I made certain not to disturb the orientation of the module on the bracket itself, as I didn’t want any MORE possibilities of calibration issues IF the electrical system noticed it was relocated after reconnecting the batteries.

I then slid the module back into the frame rail (after thinking this may actually be feasible after all) and bolted it back up to take measurements.

Remember, not a single soul had given me any direction and I was frustrated but determined to see it through. I just needed to make certain that I gave it every possible chance to work.

So, I took my measurements.
The ACC module in the OEM position sits almost exactly im the same position and orientation as it would being mounted under the crash bar. I then made certain that the side to side orientation was as close to the oem position as possible.

I then removed the module again after making my measurement marks with a marker. I had a bunch of angle iron in my garage and needed to design a “temporary” bracket prior to having one welded up (to make sure the thing worked).

So I mounted the ACC module with the bracket (very tail heavy but it was temporary until I test drove it).

Cut up some of the angle iron, Drilled four holes into the back of the crash bar, and mounted the darn thing.

I then reconnected the wiring harness to the module, and ran the ground wire back up and over the frame rail to the factory position. You will have to deal with GMs horrible black tape to get enough length for the ground wire to run back to the original frame rail position alone without the harness
(Or you could just make your own ground, I just didn’t want to chance ANYTHING!). Lol.

Well to my amazement, after reconnecting the batteries, and starting the vehicle…

ZERO WARNING LIGHTS on the dash!!

But that meant nothing yet, because I knew I had to take it on some backroads at night and get up to speed to mess with the adaptive cruise control before I claimed this as anything close to a success.

I took it out late around 1am, had my friend drive in front of me in my other vehicle. While on the phone with him, I played with all the distance setting while in cruise controls and had him SLOWLY reduce speed and then speed up again, over and over, until I was satisfied that it was working properly. My foot was ALWAYS hovering over the brake just in case it failed. Yet it did exactly what it was supposed to without issue.

It’s been working perfectly ever since. Many highway trips without issue as well.

THIS IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION BY ME!

I AM SIMPLY TELLING YOU WHAT I DID AND HOW IT WORKED FOR ME…

At the end of the day, for all I know it could’ve been dumb luck with the measurements and I’m a fraction of a millimeter away from it never coming to fruition in the first place. Lol.

Hope this helps you a little bit.
I had to become Tom Hanks in Castaway due to lack of viable solutions from anyone! Considered painting my wife’s face red with my daughters finger paint while she slept… just to yell “WILSON” ! Lol

Seriously though, it’s the simplest problems, that don’t seem like they should be problems, that get under my skin and drive me
(sometimes to the brink of insanity) to find solutions.

Well, Thats all I’ve got for you.

I’ve attached a couple pictures of the
Big piece of metal on wheels.

Goodnight.

 

[cardershack]

@cardershack

So, I actually never ended up getting an answer that would work from anyone. I’d asked every single website that sold bracket relocation kits for Fords and Toyotas, with no success.


Out of sheer frustration I did the following-

What I did was disconnected both of my batteries (I added the PPV two battery system last year). I then took the Positive and Negative cables, zip tied them together overnight to ensure all power had left the vehicle. I knew whatever I was going to do, I didn’t want the ECM, BCM, or whatever other sensors to realize what I’d done.

The following day, I removed the bumper cover and stared at the ACC module and bracket for an hour or so, cursing the engineers at GM who came up with this ridiculous setup.

Then I started looking at the wiring harness that is somewhat running along the driver side frame rail. There are two plastic clips that hold the portion of the harness that goes to the ACC module to the frame rail. I removed those clips and unplugged the ACC module.

Then I disconnected the ground cable from the frame rail, just to the right of where the ACC module is located (it’s only one bolt).

I realized that the only logical (best chance) place to relocate this module so that the tow hooks wouldn’t interfere with its field of vision was exactly center of the crash bar, beneath it, almost flush, slightly back with about 1/4” of crash bar cliff above (to allow the crash bar to still be the furthest solid object forward).

To my amazement, there was just enough harness coming off the frame rail for it to reach the new location! I had to snake the harness up and over the frame rail, then over to the new location.

There is only the lower portion of thin plastic on the front bumper cover in that area, and it being directly centered between the two tow hooks, it was the best chance the Module would have to not encounter interference issues.

No science or engineering here, this is all me basically choosing the best logical route (that could be easily reversed if it didn’t work) to give me the best odds for success IMO.

Then I unbolted the ACC module from the frame rail, realized it would not come out even unbolted without removing the crash bar. So six bolts later, the crash bar is off and out comes the module with bracket intact.

Now, I made certain not to disturb the orientation of the module on the bracket itself, as I didn’t want any MORE possibilities of calibration issues IF the electrical system noticed it was relocated after reconnecting the batteries.

I then slid the module back into the frame rail (after thinking this may actually be feasible after all) and bolted it back up to take measurements.

Remember, not a single soul had given me any direction and I was frustrated but determined to see it through. I just needed to make certain that I gave it every possible chance to work.

So, I took my measurements.
The ACC module in the OEM position sits almost exactly im the same position and orientation as it would being mounted under the crash bar. I then made certain that the side to side orientation was as close to the oem position as possible.

I then removed the module again after making my measurement marks with a marker. I had a bunch of angle iron in my garage and needed to design a “temporary” bracket prior to having one welded up (to make sure the thing worked).

So I mounted the ACC module with the bracket (very tail heavy but it was temporary until I test drove it).

Cut up some of the angle iron, Drilled four holes into the back of the crash bar, and mounted the darn thing.

I then reconnected the wiring harness to the module, and ran the ground wire back up and over the frame rail to the factory position. You will have to deal with GMs horrible black tape to get enough length for the ground wire to run back to the original frame rail position alone without the harness
(Or you could just make your own ground, I just didn’t want to chance ANYTHING!). Lol.

Well to my amazement, after reconnecting the batteries, and starting the vehicle…

ZERO WARNING LIGHTS on the dash!!

But that meant nothing yet, because I knew I had to take it on some backroads at night and get up to speed to mess with the adaptive cruise control before I claimed this as anything close to a success.

I took it out late around 1am, had my friend drive in front of me in my other vehicle. While on the phone with him, I played with all the distance setting while in cruise controls and had him SLOWLY reduce speed and then speed up again, over and over, until I was satisfied that it was working properly. My foot was ALWAYS hovering over the brake just in case it failed. Yet it did exactly what it was supposed to without issue.

It’s been working perfectly ever since. Many highway trips without issue as well.

THIS IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION BY ME!

I AM SIMPLY TELLING YOU WHAT I DID AND HOW IT WORKED FOR ME…

At the end of the day, for all I know it could’ve been dumb luck with the measurements and I’m a fraction of a millimeter away from it never coming to fruition in the first place. Lol.

Hope this helps you a little bit.
I had to become Tom Hanks in Castaway due to lack of viable solutions from anyone! Considered painting my wife’s face red with my daughters finger paint while she slept… just to yell “WILSON” ! Lol

Seriously though, it’s the simplest problems, that don’t seem like they should be problems, that get under my skin and drive me
(sometimes to the brink of insanity) to find solutions.

Well, Thats all I’ve got for you.

I’ve attached a couple pictures of the
Big piece of metal on wheels.

Goodnight.

I really appreciate the detailed write up on this. I was planning on having my dealership do this for me also. They didn't confirm for sure if it would work or not because I didn't talk to a technician rather I spoke to someone in the collision center office about scheduling it and getting a rough price on the labor. I've researched this until I was blue in the face and finally went to buy parts and talk to them about doing it for me and it was not until then that I continued reading threads adn realized I'll have this problem.

I really want the front recovery hooks not for looks but because I need them in hunting season. I duck hunt and put my boat in anywhere I can squeeze my trailer so there are times I need a pull to get out. I'm not interested in having 1 tow hook although I would entertain it if it wasn't that noticeable since I already have the parts. I'm going to think long and ******* doing this myself and trying to do what you do. It would be very helpful if you could send some pictures of what it looks like in the new position. Thanks for all the help. I guess its on me at this point and not the dealership to do the labor. I'm fine to do this myself but I have a 3 month old and time is valuable these days!

 

[cardershack]

@cardershack

So, I actually never ended up getting an answer that would work from anyone. I’d asked every single website that sold bracket relocation kits for Fords and Toyotas, with no success.


Out of sheer frustration I did the following-

What I did was disconnected both of my batteries (I added the PPV two battery system last year). I then took the Positive and Negative cables, zip tied them together overnight to ensure all power had left the vehicle. I knew whatever I was going to do, I didn’t want the ECM, BCM, or whatever other sensors to realize what I’d done.

The following day, I removed the bumper cover and stared at the ACC module and bracket for an hour or so, cursing the engineers at GM who came up with this ridiculous setup.

Then I started looking at the wiring harness that is somewhat running along the driver side frame rail. There are two plastic clips that hold the portion of the harness that goes to the ACC module to the frame rail. I removed those clips and unplugged the ACC module.

Then I disconnected the ground cable from the frame rail, just to the right of where the ACC module is located (it’s only one bolt).

I realized that the only logical (best chance) place to relocate this module so that the tow hooks wouldn’t interfere with its field of vision was exactly center of the crash bar, beneath it, almost flush, slightly back with about 1/4” of crash bar cliff above (to allow the crash bar to still be the furthest solid object forward).

To my amazement, there was just enough harness coming off the frame rail for it to reach the new location! I had to snake the harness up and over the frame rail, then over to the new location.

There is only the lower portion of thin plastic on the front bumper cover in that area, and it being directly centered between the two tow hooks, it was the best chance the Module would have to not encounter interference issues.

No science or engineering here, this is all me basically choosing the best logical route (that could be easily reversed if it didn’t work) to give me the best odds for success IMO.

Then I unbolted the ACC module from the frame rail, realized it would not come out even unbolted without removing the crash bar. So six bolts later, the crash bar is off and out comes the module with bracket intact.

Now, I made certain not to disturb the orientation of the module on the bracket itself, as I didn’t want any MORE possibilities of calibration issues IF the electrical system noticed it was relocated after reconnecting the batteries.

I then slid the module back into the frame rail (after thinking this may actually be feasible after all) and bolted it back up to take measurements.

Remember, not a single soul had given me any direction and I was frustrated but determined to see it through. I just needed to make certain that I gave it every possible chance to work.

So, I took my measurements.
The ACC module in the OEM position sits almost exactly im the same position and orientation as it would being mounted under the crash bar. I then made certain that the side to side orientation was as close to the oem position as possible.

I then removed the module again after making my measurement marks with a marker. I had a bunch of angle iron in my garage and needed to design a “temporary” bracket prior to having one welded up (to make sure the thing worked).

So I mounted the ACC module with the bracket (very tail heavy but it was temporary until I test drove it).

Cut up some of the angle iron, Drilled four holes into the back of the crash bar, and mounted the darn thing.

I then reconnected the wiring harness to the module, and ran the ground wire back up and over the frame rail to the factory position. You will have to deal with GMs horrible black tape to get enough length for the ground wire to run back to the original frame rail position alone without the harness
(Or you could just make your own ground, I just didn’t want to chance ANYTHING!). Lol.

Well to my amazement, after reconnecting the batteries, and starting the vehicle…

ZERO WARNING LIGHTS on the dash!!

But that meant nothing yet, because I knew I had to take it on some backroads at night and get up to speed to mess with the adaptive cruise control before I claimed this as anything close to a success.

I took it out late around 1am, had my friend drive in front of me in my other vehicle. While on the phone with him, I played with all the distance setting while in cruise controls and had him SLOWLY reduce speed and then speed up again, over and over, until I was satisfied that it was working properly. My foot was ALWAYS hovering over the brake just in case it failed. Yet it did exactly what it was supposed to without issue.

It’s been working perfectly ever since. Many highway trips without issue as well.

THIS IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION BY ME!

I AM SIMPLY TELLING YOU WHAT I DID AND HOW IT WORKED FOR ME…

At the end of the day, for all I know it could’ve been dumb luck with the measurements and I’m a fraction of a millimeter away from it never coming to fruition in the first place. Lol.

Hope this helps you a little bit.
I had to become Tom Hanks in Castaway due to lack of viable solutions from anyone! Considered painting my wife’s face red with my daughters finger paint while she slept… just to yell “WILSON” ! Lol

Seriously though, it’s the simplest problems, that don’t seem like they should be problems, that get under my skin and drive me
(sometimes to the brink of insanity) to find solutions.

Well, Thats all I’ve got for you.

I’ve attached a couple pictures of the
Big piece of metal on wheels.

Goodnight.

Do you have pictures of where the ACC mounts up? I just looked under my Tahoe and don't see it and not sure I see where the tow hooks would get in the way of anything. I have the button on my steering wheel but I can’t tell if I have this feature or not. Can anyone help me figure out if I have ACC?