6.2L Winter Refresh

[SpareParts]

Got the front and rear cover on today and i did use the alignment tools.
Also installed the barbell and pics to let me know i did it in a few weeks.

 

[SpareParts]

Now that im done getting side tracked at least for now i have ordered a new Luk TC0017 Torque convertor.
Hopefully the weather will be decent in a few weeks so i can get this swapped and be almost done with auto projects this summer.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Now that im done getting side tracked at least for now i have ordered a new Luk TC0017 Torque convertor.
Hopefully the weather will be decent in a few weeks so i can get this swapped and be almost done with auto projects this summer.

You better get it done, as you stated that this is a WINTER refresh.

 

[SpareParts]

The refresh is done!
Its the install that keeps getting pushed back.
It should happen withen a month though. I hope.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

The refresh is done!
Its the install that keeps getting pushed back.
It should happen withen a month though. I hope.

If it ain't running down the road, it ain't done.

 

[SpareParts]

Bought my break in oil today. 7 quarts of Royal Purple break in oil and two filters.
Plan is to pressure prime the engine. Once that is done ill fill it with oil and spin it over so i can see what the oil pressure is on the starter.
Once installed ill let it run for maybe 1/2 hour then change the cheap filter and top the oil up and run it for 500 miles before putting in some everyday oil.

 

[SpareParts]

Pressure blead the engine today until i had oil at every rocker arm. Took almost 3 quarts to do it. Turned the engine 1/4 turn every minute or so also.
Added 3 more quarts of oil and spun it with an old starter i found at the wrecking yard for free.
Probably took a little over a minute to get oil pressure and i was starting to get a little worried until it did.
Anyway spinning with a starter it has 70 PSI oil pressure. Running at idle i would imagine it might hit 80 PSI but im not sure.

Compression on the two cylinders i checked is 125 PSI and is a little disappointing to me as i expected more. Never checked the compression on a new rebuild before running.
I don't know maybe new rings and bore and nothing seated yet maybe that's pretty normal.

 

[West 1]

Did you remove the tape from the intake ports as you checked compression? I would think you are looking for close to 200 PSI in your 6.2L.

 

[SpareParts]

Yeah, I removed tape.
I sure was thinking it should be higher also.
I have no idea why it might be low. New cam, head gasket to thick?

 

[West 1]

The piston rings need oil to seal on the cylinder wall. You might put a squirt in a cylinder and test again.

 

[SpareParts]

I just did that.
I checked all cylinders and with some oil in each cylinder the compression is between 125 and 130 psi.

 

[West 1]

if you have a leak down tester you could check a cylinder to see if there are leaks at the valves, rings or head gaskets?

ON a new rebuild I had low compression, the leak down showed both valves were leaking and both heads had just been rebuilt. I called the machine shop, a friend of mine is the owner. He had done my heads and I trust his work. He laughed at me. Said run it, the valves will seat perfectly and don't worry about this pre run test. He was 100% correct. Never had an issue with that engine. I had forgotten this until you asked questions. This shop uses a nice Serdi Head Machine so quality is always very good. MIght be the same for your engine???

 

[SpareParts]

I checked the best i could using acetone and air pressure after i changed the springs and none were leaking.
I also watched the valves when spinning over checking compression. None appeared leaking.
I think it might be the design of the cam.

 

[West 1]

Your cam card shows 113* lobe separation, that will build compression and give a flat torque curve. Engines that bleed compression usually have 106-108 lobe separation and valve overlap.

Maybe watch your compression gauge while turning the engine by hand to see when the valves are closed and when the exhaust opens? This would only tell you if the cam is far out of sequence

You will need to know where the piston is as you check at bdc and tdc.

 

[SpareParts]

I checked that the cam before i put the heads on in post #137. The center lines are correct.
I don't know much about cams but if the center line is correct the rest has to be correct? Lift is also correct measured at the lifter.

 

[West 1]

How was your piston deck height?

 

[SpareParts]

Varied a little but within spec. Between +13 to +9 if i remember right.

Post #140. +0.013 to +0.011 out the hole

 

[West 1]

Rules that out.

 

[SpareParts]

Here is what the specs say. The only thing i can figure out is the cam.

 

[SpareParts]

I have been spinning this over without the magnetic adjuster thing that bolts on the front cover.
Wonder if that not being bolted on somehow affects the cam by not have the phaser bolt oil not directed where it should be. Long shot but i might as well try that and see what happens.