6.0L valley cover gasket

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Dirtrunner702

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Hey all!

I found a bad leak coming from the valley cover gasket. However, it’s a whole assembly, Damnit!

anyone else replace one of these or know if you can get just the gasket?
IMG_8714.jpeg
 

j91z28d1

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I'm pretty sure it's the same vlom gasket as any of the afm ls engines?

FEL-PRO MS 96871. a local parts store should have it?
 
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Dirtrunner702

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I'm pretty sure it's the same vlom gasket as any of the afm ls engines?

FEL-PRO MS 96871. a local parts store should have it?
Thanks! I’m researching. It doesn’t look like I can take it out without breaking the little plastic connectors to the inner gaskets. Hmmm
 

j91z28d1

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what year is yours? mine is a 2011


looking at your Pic, the gasket looks to be in good shape. I don't see it ripped up? it's pretty common for the bolts to come loose. I didn't have a leak, but I reused it without issue. in your case, unless you wanna buy a whole new vlom cover. I'd probably just use back silicone rtv on the gasket and put it back together. Just straight black rtv, it's a bit hard to find but don't like their ultra black. black or Grey is the only ones I have any luck with. the others don't seem to be very oil resistant.


the sensors can leak pretty commonly too.
 
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Dirtrunner702

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Holy crap!


Most of the bolts on my cover were lose! I was able to take them out by hand. WTF.



On a second note, this post also said the cover I have on my 08 Tahoe is not the revised cover, which you have, j91z28d1

I’m wondering if it’s worth a try to clean and torque down to spec with loctite. I can always take it apart again if it still leaks. I doubt I’ll be able to get an OEM assembly in town.

Thoughts?
 

j91z28d1

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I don't know that I'd loctite the bolts, unless you used the weakest they make. this metric hardware is pretty small and soft metal. hate to pop one trying to get it back off.

just torque to spec is fine. I'd definitely just run a thin layer if rtv on the gasket and put it back together. probably be fine especially if you don't mind doing it again with a new updated design later. there's also a updated drivers side valve cover helps with sucking less oil into the intake. they and most add a small catch can too. even with the newer design valve cover. I still get a small amount of oil in my catch can.

is your afm active? might be a good time to consider deactivating it. the failure rate is very high, and usually requires pulling the heads and replacing lifters and cam. which the cam might me hard to come by for the hybrids. they take a different grind than standard trucks.
 
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Dirtrunner702

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Update!

Yea AFM is active and working. My attempt at using RTV and torquing down the original VLOM was not successful. It kept on leaking after a few minutes and was shiny all around it when I took the intake off again. I ended up finding the updated VLOM at the dealership and popped it in. It goes into v4 mode much smoother and I can tell a big difference in performance of the back and forth between v4 and v8.
it was worth a shot!
IMG_8727.jpeg
 

j91z28d1

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huh. glad you got it fixed. sorry you had to do the extra work. were you able to pin point the spot it was leaking from?


how many miles on your truck. if you haven't you might look into the afm failures. I just say it because it seems to be about 70% of the reasons these end up scrapped. it's a shame
 

89Suburban

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Known problem on these trucks is those bolts come loose. That type of valley cover the solenoid assembly is riveted on and the gasket is sandwiched in between. I just bought the complete assembly. I got the dorman one from a chain store.
 
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Dirtrunner702

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Appreciate the suggestions. Yes it was leaking from several areas around the VLOM because of it being loose and the gasket was shot. It was also been leaking from the 5 pin connector on the original VLOM.

I’ll do some research on the AFM issues you mentioned. Currently at 168k miles. I usually always run an engine flush solution before every oil change to hopefully help extend the life of the valvetrain. It’s nice to have the AFM working as long as possible. I’m running this thing into the ground, that’s for sure.
 

j91z28d1

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168k is a good run for afm atleast judging by post here and fb hybrid group. maybe your flush is working well.

I disabled mine when I got it at 135k. at 165k I think now and hoping to hit 300k with it myself. I also did tranny fluid fluse first with acdelco fluid because I'm sure it had neve been done. 2nd time with amsoil after a long tow trip. pricey but good stuff. there's a post here with a sample I sent off to Blackstone labs around here somewhere.

it seems afm is the common engine failure across this whole platform engine wise not just the hybrid. there's also some that think it's not good long term on the ring sealing those afm cylinders since they run without fuel to watch away the oil build up. so another reason the updated valve cover for pre 2011 and a catch can is recommended to help keep oil put of the intake and cyl.
then we have the extra of lots of wiring and electrical stuff that can cause issues. the tranny seems pretty good with fluid changes. but no one seems to rebuilds them. so it's kinda keep it going or find a used one to put in.
 

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