5.3 to 6.0 Swap on my 2001 Tahoe

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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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This is burning a hole in my mind. What I could do with an extra .7 liters of displacement lol

There are two sellers. The one for 550 is long block only, and not answering any of my questions. He just says needs rebuilt.

The second has been responsive. I have to drive 300 miles to get it, but he's dealing with me. He says it spun a rod bearing (not sure how he knows exactly as doesn't appear torn down). But motor would include water pump, intake, throttle body, injectors, exhaust manifolds and appears mostly complete. He is asking $300.

I went to my favorite salvage yard and asked what they would want for one of these motors. They said $800 working condition. However, whatever I get I would want to rebuild regardless.

What do you guys think? Should I spring for the $300 spun rod bearing motor?
 

adventurenali92

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This is burning a hole in my mind. What I could do with an extra .7 liters of displacement lol

There are two sellers. The one for 550 is long block only, and not answering any of my questions. He just says needs rebuilt.

The second has been responsive. I have to drive 300 miles to get it, but he's dealing with me. He says it spun a rod bearing (not sure how he knows exactly as doesn't appear torn down). But motor would include water pump, intake, throttle body, injectors, exhaust manifolds and appears mostly complete. He is asking $300.

I went to my favorite salvage yard and asked what they would want for one of these motors. They said $800 working condition. However, whatever I get I would want to rebuild regardless.

What do you guys think? Should I spring for the $300 spun rod bearing motor?
If you’re gonna rebuild the motor anyways, why not buy the cheaper one with a spun bearing and deal with that while you’re rebuilding. 300 miles for an engine plus all the accessories he’s giving you with it is pretty good. Plus it sounds like he really wants to sell it and the other guys sounds like he’s wasting your time! I hate sellers that waste my time!
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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I don't have a good feeling about the $550 motor guy. Besides, you're planning on rebuilding anything you get, so that's a wash. But, why start out paying MORE for just a long block?
What does a long block typically cost?

On the 300$ motor, I have never delt with a spun bearing. My assumption is crank and possibly rod are toast. Not sure if damage could be worse if is truly a spun rod bearing? If main bearing spun I am assuming case is possibly a ride off?

I would almost want to see under the pan. What do you guys think?

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iamdub

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What does a long block typically cost?

On the 300$ motor, I have never delt with a spun bearing. My assumption is crank and possibly rod are toast. Not sure if damage could be worse if is truly a spun rod bearing? If main bearing spun I am assuming case is possibly a ride off?

I would almost want to see under the pan. What do you guys think?

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Never shopped for a used long block. With anything that needs rebuilding or if I can't hear it run, my base value on it starts at scrap core value unless it's really clean and I can verify the mileage or condition to some extent.

Worst case, yes, the crank is damaged beyond simple machining. Usually, a spun bearing means it seized to the journal and wallowed out the bore in the block or rod. Some polishing of the crank journal and boring the block and an oversized bearing is the standard fix. Again, bank on the worst and it needing a new crank and a rod if it was a rod bearing that spun.

You'd need to see more than just popping off the pan. If the bearing trouble is bad enough to be visible with the main caps in place, then you're looking at a core block at best.

If it were me, I'd try to find a good running motor is a wrecked truck. It'd cost more (~$800 in my area) but you're at least not starting out with damage to repair. If it's a decent mileage unit (150K +/-) and sounds and runs great, I'd replace the external seals/gaskets (covers, oil pan, crank and rear main, etc.) oil pump and pick up O-ring, maybe the timing set, inspect the cam bearings, replace the lifters etc. and swap it in.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Never shopped for a used long block. With anything that needs rebuilding or if I can't hear it run, my base value on it starts at scrap core value unless it's really clean and I can verify the mileage or condition to some extent.

Worst case, yes, the crank is damaged beyond simple machining. Usually, a spun bearing means it seized to the journal and wallowed out the bore in the block or rod. Some polishing of the crank journal and boring the block and an oversized bearing is the standard fix. Again, bank on the worst and it needing a new crank and a rod if it was a rod bearing that spun.

You'd need to see more than just popping off the pan. If the bearing trouble is bad enough to be visible with the main caps in place, then you're looking at a core block at best.

If it were me, I'd try to find a good running motor is a wrecked truck. It'd cost more (~$800 in my area) but you're at least not starting out with damage to repair. If it's a decent mileage unit (150K +/-) and sounds and runs great, I'd replace the external seals/gaskets (covers, oil pan, crank and rear main, etc.) oil pump and pick up O-ring, maybe the timing set, inspect the cam bearings, replace the lifters etc. and swap it in.
I probably just pass on these trashed motors then.

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mattt

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Buy the good running 6.0 for 550 and call it a day. That’s a steal for a 6.0 and you would be pretty hard pressed to find another one at that price. The 6.0 is so much more fun than the 5.3. Rebuild it with all new baskets and your oil probably will be solved. Mileage difference is pretty minimal. But with a good tune(Black bear performance!) your mileage will stay decent!


An absolute steal for sure. Here in CA, you can't touch a 6.0 for anywhere below ~$1200-$1400. If you don't want the $550 6.0, please pass it on. ;)
 

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