5.3 to 6.0 Swap on my 2001 Tahoe

[Matthew Jeschke]

I found a decent deal on a 6.0 L from 2002 Denali. Guy wants $550, maybe I could talk him down a bit. I'm slowly researching... Possibly this topic is already covered to death. I see a few threads for newer trucks, but the drive train changed up a bit in 2003? So not sure if those are applicable to 2001. Few questions:

1. Looks like is a plug and play swap (minus a little tuning). Is this the case? I know blocks are same size but 2002 to 2001, same mounts etc?

2. Effect on gas mileage? Will it make it worse or perhaps a tad better (I feel 5.3 is a little under powered in certain situations). Who has direct experience with the 6.0? What kind of mileage numbers do you get?

I think that's about it. I might pull the trigger especially if he'll come down to $300 range. Then I'd rebuild the motor and swap it in with rebuilt tranny and transfer case.

 

[iamdub]

I found a decent deal on a 6.0 L from 2002 Denali. Guy wants $550, maybe I could talk him down a bit. I'm slowly researching... Possibly this topic is already covered to death. I see a few threads for newer trucks, but the drive train changed up a bit in 2003? So not sure if those are applicable to 2001. Few questions:

1. Looks like is a plug and play swap (minus a little tuning). Is this the case? I know blocks are same size but 2002 to 2001, same mounts etc?

2. Effect on gas mileage? Will it make it worse or perhaps a tad better (I feel 5.3 is a little under powered in certain situations). Who has direct experience with the 6.0? What kind of mileage numbers do you get?

I think that's about it. I might pull the trigger especially if he'll come down to $300 range. Then I'd rebuild the motor and swap it in with rebuilt tranny and transfer case.

1. Should be. Worst case is the throttle body is the newer drive-by-wire design that started in '03. I don't think the 5.3 and 6.0 TBs are a different size. If not, just swap your original TB over cuz they all kept the same 3-bolt mounting style. For that matter, if anything on the intake manifold is different, you can swap your 5.3 IM onto it for a quick solution. Mounts and all are the same. You may wanna get new ones since now would be the easiest time to replace them.

2. This is a very broad question. I don't have MPG numbers, but it's like you said- "in certain situations...". Assuming the 5.3 and 6.0 are running at their peak performance, I'd say each could get better or worse than the other depending on the load (engine, not just payload weight) and RPM. One engine may be more efficient at a given RPM and throttle angle to maintain a steady cruise whereas the other may need more throttle (and fuel) input to maintain the same. One could more easily pull a given weight and the other struggle, but then the stronger one may needlessly consume more fuel at higher RPM where the other one is more efficient. At only .7 liters difference, I'd say get a really good, efficient tune and don't worry.

 

[swathdiver]

@Tonyrodz @Rocket Man

Should be plug and play but these guys will KNOW.

 

[adriver]

As long as its not a coffee table, that's already a pretty good deal for a 6.0. That's not even a bad price for a running 5.3. If that's posted somewhere, I would expect it to be gone quick. I don't think you are going to get to hold out for very long before someone else takes that. Again, if its not trash, you will be able to get your money back if you jump on it. You might try offering $500 cash if its in his face, but anyone who has a half a clue about that engine, and knows it runs shouldn't be dropping that low.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I see a second one about 200 miles up the road with water pump, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds (complete). This appears to be for only the bottom of the motor, no intake manifold or accessories.

Seems fair either way but not completely sure. Only thing is I don't need a new motor right this moment, although mine is showing some issue building oil pressure on startup (can hear clattering of lifters as oil pressure slowly rises on first startup for day). I think possible my 5.3 might need a rebuild itself in the next year or so, not sure how tough these things are when starved of oil at startup.

I'd rather swap in a 6.0 than rebuild the 5.3 if I'm going to all that trouble. However, I have multiple projects going on at same time. Am rebuilding the whole truck, next priority was to paint but this oil pressure thing started becoming more prevalent. Not sure how long the motor will continue to run like that.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Update, second motor up road has a spun bearing. Guy is telling me the one here by my house for $550 is in working order and could be swapped in as is. Regardless I would rebuild the motor.

 

[adventurenali92]

Update, second motor up road has a spun bearing. Guy is telling me the one here by my house for $550 is in working order and could be swapped in as is. Regardless I would rebuild the motor.

Buy the good running 6.0 for 550 and call it a day. That’s a steal for a 6.0 and you would be pretty hard pressed to find another one at that price. The 6.0 is so much more fun than the 5.3. Rebuild it with all new baskets and your oil probably will be solved. Mileage difference is pretty minimal. But with a good tune(Black bear performance!) your mileage will stay decent!

 

[iamdub]

I see a second one about 200 miles up the road with water pump, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds (complete). This appears to be for only the bottom of the motor, no intake manifold or accessories.

Seems fair either way but not completely sure. Only thing is I don't need a new motor right this moment, although mine is showing some issue building oil pressure on startup (can hear clattering of lifters as oil pressure slowly rises on first startup for day). I think possible my 5.3 might need a rebuild itself in the next year or so, not sure how tough these things are when starved of oil at startup.

I'd rather swap in a 6.0 than rebuild the 5.3 if I'm going to all that trouble. However, I have multiple projects going on at same time. Am rebuilding the whole truck, next priority was to paint but this oil pressure thing started becoming more prevalent. Not sure how long the motor will continue to run like that.

The lifter tapping at cold start could just be a leaking ADBV (Anti-Drainback Valve) in the oil filter. What oil filter are you running? It could also be a worn oil pump being slow to pump up the pressure. At the next cold start, hold the throttle pedal to the floor and crank the engine for about 10 seconds. Let it rest about 30 seconds then repeat. Then release the pedal and start it as normal. Holding the pedal lets the engine crank without starting. This way you can get some oil pressure built up before actually firing up the engine.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I've read you could run a 6.0 on your 5.3 tune--gently--but at the minimum you'd need a 6.0 tune. Mine is tuned.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

My mileage sucks lol I get 16 average MAYBE. Best at 18 long highway drives.

I bought a cheap oil filter, maybe it is the blow back valve. I didn't even think of that.

After talking more with the sellers of the engines I noticed the $550 seller says motor needs rebuilt but doesn't specify. The motor is ONLY the bottom end w/ heads (no intake or accessories).

There is another for sale a couple hundred miles from me. He's including some of the accessories, exhaust & intake manifolds. He wants $300 (maybe I could get him a bit lower) but there's a spun rod bearing so would need a new crank in the least (another $200+).

I talked with local salvage yard. They said they could sell me a complete 6.0 motor in running condition for $800. But they didn't have any in stock right now.

I'm kind of leaning towards the spun bearing guy if he'll give it to me for say $200 lol

Although this isn't an emergency situation, it's really me burning a hole in my pocket... Not sure how often these 6.0 motors show up for sale like this.