5.3 to 6.0 Swap on my 2001 Tahoe

[adventurenali92]

Any excuse to buy more horses. My wallet will likely hate me either way lol

This logic also makes sense to me haha.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

This is burning a hole in my mind. What I could do with an extra .7 liters of displacement lol

There are two sellers. The one for 550 is long block only, and not answering any of my questions. He just says needs rebuilt.

The second has been responsive. I have to drive 300 miles to get it, but he's dealing with me. He says it spun a rod bearing (not sure how he knows exactly as doesn't appear torn down). But motor would include water pump, intake, throttle body, injectors, exhaust manifolds and appears mostly complete. He is asking $300.

I went to my favorite salvage yard and asked what they would want for one of these motors. They said $800 working condition. However, whatever I get I would want to rebuild regardless.

What do you guys think? Should I spring for the $300 spun rod bearing motor?

 

[adventurenali92]

This is burning a hole in my mind. What I could do with an extra .7 liters of displacement lol

There are two sellers. The one for 550 is long block only, and not answering any of my questions. He just says needs rebuilt.

The second has been responsive. I have to drive 300 miles to get it, but he's dealing with me. He says it spun a rod bearing (not sure how he knows exactly as doesn't appear torn down). But motor would include water pump, intake, throttle body, injectors, exhaust manifolds and appears mostly complete. He is asking $300.

I went to my favorite salvage yard and asked what they would want for one of these motors. They said $800 working condition. However, whatever I get I would want to rebuild regardless.

What do you guys think? Should I spring for the $300 spun rod bearing motor?

If you’re gonna rebuild the motor anyways, why not buy the cheaper one with a spun bearing and deal with that while you’re rebuilding. 300 miles for an engine plus all the accessories he’s giving you with it is pretty good. Plus it sounds like he really wants to sell it and the other guys sounds like he’s wasting your time! I hate sellers that waste my time!

 

[iamdub]

I don't have a good feeling about the $550 motor guy. Besides, you're planning on rebuilding anything you get, so that's a wash. But, why start out paying MORE for just a long block?

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I don't have a good feeling about the $550 motor guy. Besides, you're planning on rebuilding anything you get, so that's a wash. But, why start out paying MORE for just a long block?

What does a long block typically cost?

On the 300$ motor, I have never delt with a spun bearing. My assumption is crank and possibly rod are toast. Not sure if damage could be worse if is truly a spun rod bearing? If main bearing spun I am assuming case is possibly a ride off?

I would almost want to see under the pan. What do you guys think?

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[iamdub]

What does a long block typically cost?

On the 300$ motor, I have never delt with a spun bearing. My assumption is crank and possibly rod are toast. Not sure if damage could be worse if is truly a spun rod bearing? If main bearing spun I am assuming case is possibly a ride off?

I would almost want to see under the pan. What do you guys think?

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Never shopped for a used long block. With anything that needs rebuilding or if I can't hear it run, my base value on it starts at scrap core value unless it's really clean and I can verify the mileage or condition to some extent.

Worst case, yes, the crank is damaged beyond simple machining. Usually, a spun bearing means it seized to the journal and wallowed out the bore in the block or rod. Some polishing of the crank journal and boring the block and an oversized bearing is the standard fix. Again, bank on the worst and it needing a new crank and a rod if it was a rod bearing that spun.

You'd need to see more than just popping off the pan. If the bearing trouble is bad enough to be visible with the main caps in place, then you're looking at a core block at best.

If it were me, I'd try to find a good running motor is a wrecked truck. It'd cost more (~$800 in my area) but you're at least not starting out with damage to repair. If it's a decent mileage unit (150K +/-) and sounds and runs great, I'd replace the external seals/gaskets (covers, oil pan, crank and rear main, etc.) oil pump and pick up O-ring, maybe the timing set, inspect the cam bearings, replace the lifters etc. and swap it in.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Never shopped for a used long block. With anything that needs rebuilding or if I can't hear it run, my base value on it starts at scrap core value unless it's really clean and I can verify the mileage or condition to some extent.

Worst case, yes, the crank is damaged beyond simple machining. Usually, a spun bearing means it seized to the journal and wallowed out the bore in the block or rod. Some polishing of the crank journal and boring the block and an oversized bearing is the standard fix. Again, bank on the worst and it needing a new crank and a rod if it was a rod bearing that spun.

You'd need to see more than just popping off the pan. If the bearing trouble is bad enough to be visible with the main caps in place, then you're looking at a core block at best.

If it were me, I'd try to find a good running motor is a wrecked truck. It'd cost more (~$800 in my area) but you're at least not starting out with damage to repair. If it's a decent mileage unit (150K +/-) and sounds and runs great, I'd replace the external seals/gaskets (covers, oil pan, crank and rear main, etc.) oil pump and pick up O-ring, maybe the timing set, inspect the cam bearings, replace the lifters etc. and swap it in.

I probably just pass on these trashed motors then.

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[Rocket Man]

I probably just pass on these trashed motors then.

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I would just go for an $800 running motor to rebuild. You can go through that $300 in difference real quick.

 

[mattt]

Buy the good running 6.0 for 550 and call it a day. That’s a steal for a 6.0 and you would be pretty hard pressed to find another one at that price. The 6.0 is so much more fun than the 5.3. Rebuild it with all new baskets and your oil probably will be solved. Mileage difference is pretty minimal. But with a good tune(Black bear performance!) your mileage will stay decent!

An absolute steal for sure. Here in CA, you can't touch a 6.0 for anywhere below ~$1200-$1400. If you don't want the $550 6.0, please pass it on.

 

[Tonyrodz]

An absolute steal for sure. Here in CA, you can't touch a 6.0 for anywhere below ~$1200-$1400. If you don't want the $550 6.0, please pass it on.

Similar in NJ.

 

[adventurenali92]

An absolute steal for sure. Here in CA, you can't touch a 6.0 for anywhere below ~$1200-$1400. If you don't want the $550 6.0, please pass it on.

Nothing here in California for our trucks is cheap! Lol

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I may give you the lead. Logistically may be impossible for me to pickup. I didn't realize the block with spun bearing is in LA.

I am still thinking of taking the risk and snagging the one for $400. I misread the ad, it's in LA but he's offering to drive it part way for me, which seems a bit more than generous?

I'm looking here and a short block is like $1500. The one at junkyard for $800 would be a steal but they don't have any. Whatever I get I'd want to rebuild anyways. A new crank is $300 or so for the LQ4 according to google. My buddy who built these for GM said it should be fine but to have the mains checked by machine shop for alignment just to be on safe side in-case they dropped it or anything during removal.

Only risk is if the block is wrecked on this one for $400 (or if it's a crazy waiting to chop me into pieces lol). Not sure if I'll be able to get over there and pick it up. It's a day drive each way for me and gas expense puts me closer to the $800 motor.

 

[SteveB]

If it was me I would pick up one of the cheaper motors as you are planning a rebuild. The crank , rods , exhaust manifolds and acc. are the same between the 5.3 and 6.0. I just finished this swap on the weekend. I had to change my flexplate (used the one from the 5.3). I didn't get a real tune done , just had a stock 6.0 tune flashed into the computer. Didn't feel comfortable driving on the 5.3 down the highway. I used the 5.3 intake complete cause the map sensor goes on the intake was broke on the 6.0 intake.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

If it was me I would pick up one of the cheaper motors as you are planning a rebuild. The crank , rods , exhaust manifolds and acc. are the same between the 5.3 and 6.0. I just finished this swap on the weekend. I had to change my flexplate (used the one from the 5.3). I didn't get a real tune done , just had a stock 6.0 tune flashed into the computer. Didn't feel comfortable driving on the 5.3 down the highway. I used the 5.3 intake complete cause the map sensor goes on the intake was broke on the 6.0 intake.

Hell maybe i just buy a 6.0 crankcase and heads. I didnt realize that many parts were the same.

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[Tonyrodz]

Hell maybe i just buy a 6.0 crankcase and heads. I didnt realize that many parts were the same.

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Majority--if not all of the external pieces are the same between the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0. Depends on the years tho--for fuel return and such. Even the tb's are the same--dbw or dbc.

 

[SteveB]

Hell maybe i just buy a 6.0 crankcase and heads. I didnt realize that many parts were the same.

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Or buy some 799/243 heads for a bump up in compression over the 317 heads. Could even use your 5.3 heads not sure what the compression ratio would be though.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Or buy some 799/243 heads for a bump up in compression over the 317 heads. Could even use your 5.3 heads not sure what the compression ratio would be though.

Would have have to remachine to 5.3 heads? Isnt it a larger piston in the 6.0?

I am find whole 6.0 / 2500 trucks for less than motors lol. The swap or parts car idea is becomong more and more attractive.

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[SteveB]

No you don't have machine the heads because of the piston size

 

[SteveB]

Would have have to remachine to 5.3 heads? Isnt it a larger piston in the 6.0?

I am find whole 6.0 / 2500 trucks for less than motors lol. The swap or parts car idea is becomong more and more attractive.

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Buy the whole truck.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I'm going to keep my eyes out for one

In my quest for power, I think I could upgrade some other items. Curious anybody here buy shorty headers? Are they worth it? I see they're pretty inexpensive (under $200 depending).