2015 Tahoe/Grinding/rough noise from front of vehicle

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fatmonk8

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Gear oil replaced, bearing replaced, seal replaced.

Everything is bolted back up.

Still a crunch noise. Regardless if in 4wd or 2wd
 

wjburken

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Gear oil replaced, bearing replaced, seal replaced.

Everything is bolted back up.

Still a crunch noise. Regardless if in 4wd or 2wd
Did you open up the differential or just swap the bearing? With that much play, and the amount of debris you had on the plug, I would want to see what's going on inside.
 
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Did you open up the differential or just swap the bearing? With that much play, and the amount of debris you had on the plug, I would want to see what's going on inside.
I did not open it up. That was going to be my next endeavor of this was a bust
 
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Did you open up the differential or just swap the bearing? With that much play, and the amount of debris you had on the plug, I would want to see what's going on inside.
It has to be removed to be opened?
 
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Man I finally got brave enough to jack all 4 off the ground and out it in driver in both 2wd and 4wd. Felt super sketchy lol.

But I didn't hear a dang thing.
 
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I also dont see any big or small pieces of metal in the old fluid either
 

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NickTransmissions

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It has to be removed to be opened?
Even if it doesn't, it'd be a hell of a lot easier doing a bench tear down/rebuild vs doing it "in-frame". I'd go to a pick a part and find one just like yours. Try to remove it so you get a sense for what the job entails, any problems that you didn't initially foresee and if you can get it out, maybe take it apart right there so you learn "how to" and know what to expect vs having your own diff serve as the guinea pig.

ETA: Before you go to the junk yard, look at your glove box for RPO codes for your Tahoe...For example, my '03 Tahoe's sticker has two codes for axles: GT4 and G80... "GT4" means 'axle-3.73 ratio' and "G80" means 'axle-positraction'. Then, when at the salvage yard, look for one w/the same axle/diff RPO codes.
 
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fatmonk8

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Even if it doesn't, it'd be a hell of a lot easier doing a bench tear down/rebuild vs doing it "in-frame". I'd go to a pick a part and find one just like yours. Try to remove it so you get a sense for what the job entails, any problems that you didn't initially foresee and if you can get it out, maybe take it apart right there so you learn "how to" and know what to expect vs having your own diff serve as the guinea pig.

ETA: Before you go to the junk yard, look at your glove box for RPO codes for your Tahoe...For example, my '03 Tahoe's sticker has two codes for axles: GT4 and G80... "GT4" means 'axle-3.73 ratio' and "G80" means 'axle-positraction'. Then, when at the salvage yard, look for one w/the same axle/diff RPO codes.
For the sake of urgency as this is my daily I use as personal and a traveling technician.

Wouldn't I also just be able to buy a new/rebuilt front end make the swap, then I can tear apart the old one and rebuild it in a more open time frame, and maybe re-sell the old rebuilt front end on eBay?

Maybe that be a little extreme, but it may be faster to get my car back on the road for work.
 

NickTransmissions

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For the sake of urgency as this is my daily I use as personal and a traveling technician.

Wouldn't I also just be able to buy a new/rebuilt front end make the swap, then I can tear apart the old one and rebuild it in a more open time frame, and maybe re-sell the old rebuilt front end on eBay?

Maybe that be a little extreme, but it may be faster to get my car back on the road for work.
Of course.

Whenever I have to do something major on one of my vehicles I always go to the junk yard first to practice so when the time comes to do it on mine, i already know all the ins and outs. So I suggested it to you given you havent done a front diff r/r before (or at least, based on your posts, it seems like you havent).
 
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Of course.

Whenever I have to do something major on one of my vehicles I always go to the junk yard first to practice so when the time comes to do it on mine, i already know all the ins and outs. So I suggested it to you given you havent done a front diff r/r before (or at least, based on your posts, it seems like you havent).
I have not rebuilt a front diff or any diff for that matter, but I have removed the front diff/front axle before from my 2008 Silverado I am rebuilding.

These are the two codes I see, but they say rear, would that be the code I am looking for? I didn't see any other codes pertaining to the axle or differential.

Screenshot 2023-07-29 085422.png
 
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This is also the RPO lookup
 

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NickTransmissions

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I have not rebuilt a front diff or any diff for that matter, but I have removed the front diff/front axle before from my 2008 Silverado I am rebuilding.

These are the two codes I see, but they say rear, would that be the code I am looking for? I didn't see any other codes pertaining to the axle or differential.
Yep. So you just need a new/reman front diff unit that has the same gear ratio and otherwise fits your vehicle.
 
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fatmonk8

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You're welcome, man...good luck with the project...post some pics once you tear into the existing differential.
What would be your stance on buying one from eBay, probably a used one pulled from a wreck I assume. I can't seem to find a re-manufactured one available.
 

NickTransmissions

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What would be your stance on buying one from eBay, probably a used one pulled from a wreck I assume. I can't seem to find a re-manufactured one available.
I personally don't buy stuff like that on eBay as the shipping is usually horrendous plus if there's something wrong with it and it has to go back, you have to deal w/that. Plus, there's numerous junk yards within a half hour of me so I just go and grab one there...When it comes to diffs/axle housings, I do a partial tear down to make sure it's good to go before buying.

That said, if you want, price is something you're willing to pay and seller has good seller feedback (and allows returns), go for it.
 

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