2011 Avalanche Build (Wrecked)

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David Smith

David Smith

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Is anyone familiar with the voice commands for the radio in these? It seems like the responses are long and unnecessary. For instance if I want to call my wife:

*holds button down for 2 seconds
''Ready?"
"Call the wife"
"Call the wife using David's Iphone?"
"Yes"
"Calling the wife using David's Iphone."
*starts ringing

Any way to disable something to where is just calls instead of having all of the confirmation crap? Or am I just being petty? Clearly I am wanting to us "David's Iphone" since it is the only phone paired to the truck lol
 

HiHoeSilver

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Could be worse.

Is anyone familiar with the voice commands for the radio in these? It seems like the responses are long and unnecessary. For instance if I want to call my wife:

*holds button down for 2 seconds
''Ready?"
"Call the wife"
"the wife has a name"
"she does?"
"call (insert wife's name here) using a$$hole's iPhone?"
“YES"
"calling the reason you're not miserable and alone you chauvinist bastard."
*starts ringing
 
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David Smith

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Title made it in today!

I should be meeting with a guy this evening to sell my current ride. As long as he does not back out, I will be in the Avalanche tomorrow!

I called the tag office and I have to pay $1200 in tax/tag/title fees. Outrageous!

They tax us here in GA (not sure if they do it everywhere) 6.5% of what the state values your vehicle at. GA thinks that my Avalanche is worth just over $16k. You can appeal it, which I intend to since I only paid $5400 for a SALVAGE vehicle, but I have not heard of anything having any luck with doing so.

Even so, after everything is said and done, after paynig the taxes and EVERYTHING that have done thus far, I should be in it foR under $8K.
A little revision to this...Only ended up having to pay $5000 for the Avalanche. $1200 in parts/labor/paint. $950 in taxes.

So I came out about $800 cheaper than I had originally anticipated. After selling my Tahoe (that I bought 2 years ago for $4000) for $5400, I am in this Avalanche for less than $2000. Very happy with it. It is a much better ride. It even seems to have more space in all of the seats.

Once we get in our new house in August/September, I intend on doing some kind of exhaust and COI. Until then, my extra money is going to some cool house items! Like rugs, appliances...and curtain rods :(
 

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It's been a pleasure to follow this thread David and we're all very proud of your achievements here. That you were able to make a profit on your old truck and be in it when all is said in done for so little is quite a feat!

Voice Commands do that because of Onstar, the programming is differentiating between your bluetooth connected phone and the optional Onstar phone. It's just not smart enough to drop the extra prompts when the other service is not active. Your owner's manual will have most, if not all of the voice commands, might be a way to get the call moving faster.
 
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David Smith

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So about 2 weeks ago I went and had an alignment done on the Avalanche. Steering wheel was off a bit. Surely it was due to the accident.

I just dropped off the Avalanche again the have the tires balanced and have the front rotors turned. They seem to be pretty warped. I intend on replacing everything at a later time. I am going out of town this weekend, and needed a quick and cheap fix to get me by.

I have read a lot of different stuff on here about using ACDelco and Powerstop products. When I go to replace rotors and pads, what should I go with? I don't anticipate on doing much towing. The Avalanche is only rated for like 5k anyways. Don't think that I need a super duper performance set up, but I do not want to have to deal with warped rotors for a while. Suggestions?
 

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I just re-did my entire brake system with NAPA fleet rotors up front and Napa Gold series in the back. Very happy with them and also used their Adaptive One ceramic pads. Very little brake dust, no noise and stops great


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David Smith

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I just re-did my entire brake system with NAPA fleet rotors up front and Napa Gold series in the back. Very happy with them and also used their Adaptive One ceramic pads. Very little brake dust, no noise and stops great


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May be worth looking in to. I am just looking for the best bang for my buck. I am not against a house brand rotor or pad if they have decent reviews.
 

04Huck

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May be worth looking in to. I am just looking for the best bang for my buck. I am not against a house brand rotor or pad if they have decent reviews.
I got a hook up price on mine because my dad did a lot of business with them in the past. But I think retail, the whole shebang should be around 350-400. I paid just under 400 with new front calipers too


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I installed cryo-tempered PowerStop (StopTech) slotted rotors and Hawk pads. I am not satisfied at all with the rotors. They "warped" within 1,000 miles and 800 of those were all highway en route to Tampa, FL. I bedded in them and the pads strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. They are also wearing quickly. There's a considerably tall lip around the outer edge where the pad doesn't cover.

My next setup will likely be whatever is OEM for the SSV/PPV brakes. Slots are cool and all, but they shave pads (shortens life and causes more dust) and it seems to be hit-or-miss with the entry-level aftermarket rotors. I've always been a fan of Hawk pads and there are plenty of other great pads. NAPA's mid- and upper-level equipment seems to be quality stuff.
 

04Huck

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X2 against Powerstop. Put them on my 06 Sierra Z71, warped then immediately too. Bedded then just like they said too. I’m fairly ******* brakes but damn. I’ve got 2k on my setup now and it’s great, no issues


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The SSV/PPV ceramic pads wear rotors more quickly but they stop better. I am well pleased with my factory brakes. Replaced the rears with OE metallic pads and rotors and the parking brake shoes. It's almost time to do the fronts axle. With all this rain, my left hub has been squeaking as the wheel turns, thinking about changing that out too for another Timkin.
 
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David Smith

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Sorry, but what do you mean when you say "bedded"?

I have been considering the ACDelco "Police" rotors. Seems like anything ACDelco would be ideal, and surely the Police rotors are better than factory.
 

kbuskill

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Bedding in your brakes is a very important step that a lot of people are clueless about.

The recommended process differs slightly by manufacturers but the basic jist of it is to get the vehicle up to 60-70 mph and slow down rapidly (but DO NOT come to a complete stop) and then repeat this process several times... then drive around until your brakes cool down before stopping completely.

If you come to a complete stop while your rotors are hot then you will transfer too much pad material onto one spot of the rotor which will make your rotors feel warped, grabbing that spot at every rotation.

For the record I bought a full set, front and rear, of cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads from EBay.... they came out of Canada.

I installed them last year and followed there bedding procedure and I couldn't be more happy with them... no warping not eating up pads... of course I don't wait till the last minute to stop either... a start slowing down way ahead of time... driving a semi will teach you that... lol

$157 shipped for all 4 corners... very well pleased.
 
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Bedding in your brakes is a very important step that a lot of people are clueless about.

The recommended process differs slightly by manufacturers but the basic jist of it is to get the vehicle up to 60-70 mph and slow down rapidly (but DO NOT come to a complete stop) and then repeat this process several times... then drive around until your brakes cool down before stopping completely.

If you come to a complete stop while your rotors are hot then you will transfer too much pad material onto one spot of the rotor which will make your rotors feel warped, grabbing that spot at every rotation.

For the record I bought a full set, front and rear, of cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads from EBay.... they came out of Canada.

I installed them last year and followed there bedding procedure and I couldn't be more happy with them... no warping not eating up pads... of course I don't wait till the last minute to stop either... a start slowing down way ahead of time... driving a semi will teach you that... lol

$157 shipped for all 4 corners... very well pleased.
That makes perfect sense about not stopping while bedding them. I will be sure to do that when I get a new setup. Thanks for the info.
 

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Bedding in your brakes is a very important step that a lot of people are clueless about.

The recommended process differs slightly by manufacturers but the basic jist of it is to get the vehicle up to 60-70 mph and slow down rapidly (but DO NOT come to a complete stop) and then repeat this process several times... then drive around until your brakes cool down before stopping completely.

If you come to a complete stop while your rotors are hot then you will transfer too much pad material onto one spot of the rotor which will make your rotors feel warped, grabbing that spot at every rotation.

For the record I bought a full set, front and rear, of cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads from EBay.... they came out of Canada.

I installed them last year and followed there bedding procedure and I couldn't be more happy with them... no warping not eating up pads... of course I don't wait till the last minute to stop either... a start slowing down way ahead of time... driving a semi will teach you that... lol

$157 shipped for all 4 corners... very well pleased.
Then again ken, not many have had to parallel park a semi for their driving test. Still amazes me how people brake check ... do you (not you personally)know how long it takes to stop a semi? They dont even have a clue.....;)
 

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We bedded our rear brakes by getting up to 30 and rapidly coming to a stop and then rolled out and did it again. We did it 20 times plus a couple do overs, my new driver was behind the wheel learnin'! All done in the neighborhood.
 
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kbuskill

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Then again ken, not many have had to parallel park a semi for their driving test. Still amazes me how people brake check ... do you (not you personally)know how long it takes to stop a semi? They dont even have a clue.....;)

I am a firm believer that in order to get a regular class E drivers license you should be required to ride in a semi for at least 2 hours just to see what it's like and what is required to start, stop, and maneuver.
 

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