2011 Avalanche Build (Wrecked)

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iamdub

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For the record I bought a full set, front and rear, of cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads from EBay.... they came out of Canada.

I installed them last year and followed there bedding procedure and I couldn't be more happy with them... no warping not eating up pads... of course I don't wait till the last minute to stop either... a start slowing down way ahead of time... driving a semi will teach you that... lol

$157 shipped for all 4 corners... very well pleased.

Link to this Canadian brake package?
 

swathdiver

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Ken's way is much faster!

From the AllDataDIY shop manual:

Brake Pad and Rotor Burnishing

Warning

Road test a vehicle under safe conditions and while obeying all traffic laws. Do not attempt any maneuvers that could jeopardize vehicle control. Failure to adhere to these precautions could lead to serious personal injury and vehicle damage.

Burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system.

This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.

  1. Select a smooth road with little or no traffic.
  2. Accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h (30 mph). Note: Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step.
  3. Using moderate to firm pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop. Do not allow the brakes to lock.
  4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods between stops in order to properly burnish the brake pads and rotors.
 

kbuskill

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Link to this Canadian brake package?

Unfortunately when I look in my eBay purchases it shows it's unavailable...

rps20180606_143910_795.jpg


But when I look in my PayPal history it shows their email... maybe that will help you guys out.

Their email is...

[email protected]

rps20180606_144203_448.jpg
rps20180606_144240_780.jpg


Hope this helps someone.
 

iamdub

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Unfortunately when I look in my eBay purchases it shows it's unavailable...

View attachment 201004

But when I look in my PayPal history it shows their email... maybe that will help you guys out.

Their email is...

[email protected]

View attachment 201005 View attachment 201006

Hope this helps someone.


Way better than nothing! The parts and whole kit may be available, just from a different seller or listed a littel differently. I'll get to diggin and report what I find. Thank you!
 

iamdub

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Any luck yet?

Kinda. :banghead:

I had four tabs open with everything I was finding, including the manufacturer and two resellers, then one of the other three inhabitants of the house closed everything. I have my browser locked down so no history or trails are left so I couldn't just reopen the tabs.

What I DO recall, was that the company (MAX Brakes) has an email and phone number. It looks like you can shop from their site but you probably have to register first. I found a few rotor and pad kits for our trucks but couldn't see how to add it to the cart.

Amazon just has their pads.

Ebay looks to have everything, but not in one kit.

Here's the full kit with blank rotors for $130 US.

Here's the rear drilled and slotted kit with pads for $86 US (Couldn't find the front).

And here's the full front and rear kit with the anti-rust coating for $161 US. I added this it to my eBay cart and will compare it to other kits such as R1 and OEM PPV/SSV equipment.
 
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kbuskill

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Kinda. :banghead:

I had four tabs open with everything I was finding, including the manufacturer and two resellers, then one of the other three inhabitants of the house closed everything. I have my browser locked down so no history or trails are left so I couldn't just reopen the tabs.

What I DO recall, was that the company (MAX Brakes) has an email and phone number. It looks like you can shop from their site but you probably have to register first. I found a few rotor and pad kits for our trucks but couldn't see how to add it to the cart.

Amazon just has their pads.

Ebay looks to have everything, but not in one kit.

Here's the full kit with blank rotors for $130 US.

Here's the rear drilled and slotted kit with pads for $86 US (Couldn't find the front).

And here's the full front and rear kit with the anti-rust coating for $161 US. I added this it to my eBay cart and will compare it to other kits such as R1 and OEM PPV/SSV equipment.

Did anyone try emailing them at the email I posted???
 
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So on the way home on Friday, my radio started acting weird. It finally stopped when I pressure the mute button a few times...check it out

 

iamdub

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So on the way home on Friday, my radio started acting weird. It finally stopped when I pressure the mute button a few times...check it out


I'm gonna guess fault in the steering wheel control circuit. Maybe faulty buttons intermittently shorting and acting as if you're holding a button(s) or maybe a wire harness was damaged (airbag deploy?).
 
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David Smith

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I'm gonna guess fault in the steering wheel control circuit. Maybe faulty buttons intermittently shorting and acting as if you're holding a button(s) or maybe a wire harness was damaged (airbag deploy?).
The bag did deploy, but this is the first time it has ever done this. And it was only for a min. or so. I thought it could possible have something to do with the ridiculous heat that was inside of my truck that day. Who knows. If it happens again, I might look into it a bit more.
 
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David Smith

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I'm gonna guess fault in the steering wheel control circuit. Maybe faulty buttons intermittently shorting and acting as if you're holding a button(s) or maybe a wire harness was damaged (airbag deploy?).
So it did it again today. Seems like it is related to the temperature of the radio. Once the cabin cools down, it stops doing it. I do not think that it is the steering wheel controls, because it is bringin up screen on the radio that aren't accessible by the steering wheel controls. (Bass, Mid, Treble, XM Radio, Menu Settings)
 

swathdiver

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Take the radio apart and get at it with an ohmmeter or pick up another off ebay and sell your old one for parts on ebay to offset the cost, you might break even!
 

iamdub

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So it did it again today. Seems like it is related to the temperature of the radio. Once the cabin cools down, it stops doing it. I do not think that it is the steering wheel controls, because it is bringin up screen on the radio that aren't accessible by the steering wheel controls. (Bass, Mid, Treble, XM Radio, Menu Settings)

Ah. It scrolled so fast in the video that I couldn't tell. It looked like it was just cycling through the modes really quickly.

Being consistent with temperature, it could be a cracked solder joint. With everything being controlled by a Class 3 data stream instead of analog circuits, an intermittent connection can throw the processors for a loop. This is a good reason to look into upgrading to an OEM touchscreen unit or, better yet, an aftermarket HU. You could at least pull it out to make sure all the plugs are fully seated and that the wires going into the plugs are fully inserted.
 
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David Smith

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Ah. It scrolled so fast in the video that I couldn't tell. It looked like it was just cycling through the modes really quickly.

Being consistent with temperature, it could be a cracked solder joint. With everything being controlled by a Class 3 data stream instead of analog circuits, an intermittent connection can throw the processors for a loop. This is a good reason to look into upgrading to an OEM touchscreen unit or, better yet, an aftermarket HU. You could at least pull it out to make sure all the plugs are fully seated and that the wires going into the plugs are fully inserted.
So you would recommend and aftermarket HU over the factory touch screen?

Do you have one? How fluent is the interface with the steering wheel controls? Does it make the Bose system sound better since you have more control over tuning? Is there really any downside to getting an aftermarket HU?

What does the Voice Command button do with an aftermarket HU?
 

iamdub

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So you would recommend and aftermarket HU over the factory touch screen?

Do you have one? How fluent is the interface with the steering wheel controls? Does it make the Bose system sound better since you have more control over tuning? Is there really any downside to getting an aftermarket HU?

What does the Voice Command button do with an aftermarket HU?

I switched mine to the OEM touchscreen because I got it for so cheap. Between the OEM HU, having it unlocked, nav antenna, and speed sensor harness, I was under the cost of what the adapter harness and module(s) required for an aftermarket HU alone would've been. Plus the rear seat controls are still functional so I have no non-working OEM equipment.

The steering wheel controls work just like pressing a button on the HU itself. They have symbols and are pretty intuitive. About the only ones I use are the volume and "up" and "down" buttons. I can't say I noticed any difference in sound quality with the swap. I'd guess they have the same output circuits and the only difference is how you adjust the settings (knobs/buttons versus touchscreen). Looking back, I wish I would've saved up more cash and went aftermarket. The rear seat controls would've been disabled, but nobody uses them anyway. Every other OEM function can be retained with the proper adapter module(s). You'll have a better screen, better sound shaping capabilities, easier expansion potential, MUCH better nav, Bluetooth calling AND streaming capabilities, and so much more.
 

kbuskill

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I switched mine to the OEM touchscreen because I got it for so cheap. Between the OEM HU, having it unlocked, nav antenna, and speed sensor harness, I was under the cost of what the adapter harness and module(s) required for an aftermarket HU alone would've been. Plus the rear seat controls are still functional so I have no non-working OEM equipment.

The steering wheel controls work just like pressing a button on the HU itself. They have symbols and are pretty intuitive. About the only ones I use are the volume and "up" and "down" buttons. I can't say I noticed any difference in sound quality with the swap. I'd guess they have the same output circuits and the only difference is how you adjust the settings (knobs/buttons versus touchscreen). Looking back, I wish I would've saved up more cash and went aftermarket. The rear seat controls would've been disabled, but nobody uses them anyway. Every other OEM function can be retained with the proper adapter module(s). You'll have a better screen, better sound shaping capabilities, easier expansion potential, MUCH better nav, Bluetooth calling AND streaming capabilities, and so much more.

Rear seat controls still function with the Rosen GM1210... I bet you probably knew I was gonna say that...

Almost like knowing that a post from James @swathdiver is goings to contain the word Tech2.... lol
 

iamdub

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Rear seat controls still function with the Rosen GM1210... I bet you probably knew I was gonna say that...

Almost like knowing that a post from James @swathdiver is goings to contain the word Tech2.... lol

I did think of the Rosen when typing that but the thought left my mind as I spelled out other thoughts. Just like how I failed to answer David's last question about the Voice Command button.
 

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