2007 Yukon Denali stalling

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vettes980

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Oil pressure is 25 idle, 40 at Speed and 55 cold. Not sure of the oil change interval if prior owner.


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BG1988

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Oil is 4.5k miles old in Mobil 1. Bought 10.5k miles ago 199k. Needs a change but was focusing on this issue first.


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that could fix it but the solenoids will need replacement as it's getting stuck?
 

vettes980

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that could fix it but the solenoids will need replacement as it's getting stuck?
Are there two or just one on the 6.2? All I see is one behind the water pump next to CPS. I generally try to buy AC delco parts, is Dorman ok? They’re spitting improved design over OEM in their description. Also thinking I should just swap out water pump too. Looks to be original.

So new VVT solenoid, cam position sensor, water pump. Anything else while I’m there? The Oiler valve bolt behind the solenoid? TIA


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wjburken

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Are there two or just one on the 6.2? All I see is one behind the water pump next to CPS. I generally try to buy AC delco parts, is Dorman ok? They’re spitting improved design over OEM in their description. Also thinking I should just swap out water pump too. Looks to be original.

So new VVT solenoid, cam position sensor, water pump. Anything else while I’m there? The Oiler valve bolt behind the solenoid? TIA


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Only one solenoid for VVT as you only have 1 cam and it is behind the water pump.
 
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BG1988

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Oil is 4.5k miles old in Mobil 1. Bought 10.5k miles ago 199k. Needs a change but was focusing on this issue first.


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that could fix it but the solenoids will need replacement as it's getting stuck
Only one solenoid for VVT as you only have 1 cam and it is behind the water pump.

replace the water pump and Magnetic solenoid actuator, along with cam position sensor.


as well as the belt too it might be old too... also check the pulleys and make sure they are good while everything is apart
 
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Bruce Mace

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That’s exactly my thought and with all that has gone on with it, I suspect the TAC motor controlling the throttle body is out of sync or failing causing the butterfly to not work under idle. I had codes for the the throttle body when I bought it 1 year and 12k miles ago. I just cleaned it and the codes never came back. It’s always been in the back of my mind that I just prolonged its death. Cheap is expensive.

I replaced the throttle body and the fuel pump, and the stalling issue seems to have disappeared but I do sill have the stabilitrak light coming on after 20 minutes of driving and after awhile it goes out and then comes on together with the check engine light? Any suggestions? I have read it is probably a bad steering wheel position sensor ?
 

wjburken

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I replaced the throttle body and the fuel pump, and the stalling issue seems to have disappeared but I do sill have the stabilitrak light coming on after 20 minutes of driving and after awhile it goes out and then comes on together with the check engine light? Any suggestions? I have read it is probably a bad steering wheel position sensor ?
What codes are you getting when the Stabilitrak and check engine light come on?
 

wjburken

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I am getting a P0011
That is the only code you are getting when both the Stabilitrak and CEL are on?

P0011 is your camshaft position sensor if I am not mistaken. It might be going bad or you might have an issue with your VVT solenoid or actuator. Do you have access to a TECH-2 or similar scan tool?
 
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Bruce Mace

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No I do not, but I have already replaced the actuator, as well as the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft postion sensor
 

wjburken

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No I do not, but I have already replaced the actuator, as well as the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft postion sensor
To be clear, and I have not gone back and scoured all 49 posts here, when you say actuator, are you talking about the solenoid that mounts to the timing chain cover behind the water pump or are you talking about the piece that threads into the end of the camshaft and holds the VVT phaser on?

How many miles on the motor?
 
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Bruce Mace

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To be clear, and I have not gone back and scoured all 49 posts here, when you say actuator, are you talking about the solenoid that mounts to the timing chain cover behind the water pump or are you talking about the piece that threads into the end of the camshaft and holds the VVT phaser on?

How many miles on the motor?

I am talking about the one that threads into the end of the camshaft, and it has 170K on the motor
 

wjburken

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I am talking about the one that threads into the end of the camshaft, and it has 170K on the motor

Ok, so let's see if we can walk through the possible things that would cause a the camshaft to be out of position.

  1. Camshaft Position Sensor - Replaced
    1. Have you checked the condition of the wiring harness?
  2. Crankshaft Position Sensor - Replaced
    1. Have you checked the condition of the wiring harness?
  3. Camshaft VVT Actuator - Replaced
  4. Camshaft VVT Solenoid - Replaced?
    1. Have you checked the condition of the wiring harness?
  5. VVT phaser Sprocket failing to shift
    1. Phaser is stuck and can't shift
    2. Low oil pressure getting to the phaser through the camshaft ports and can't shift it
  6. Timing chain tensioner failing
  7. Timing chain stretched
 
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Bruce Mace

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Ok, so let's see if we can walk through the possible things that would cause a the camshaft to be out of position.

  1. Camshaft Position Sensor - Replaced
    1. Have you checked the condition of the wiring harness?
  2. Crankshaft Position Sensor - Replaced
    1. Have you checked the condition of the wiring harness?
  3. Camshaft VVT Actuator - Replaced
  4. Camshaft VVT Solenoid - Replaced?
    1. Have you checked the condition of the wiring harness?
  5. VVT phaser Sprocket failing to shift
    1. Phaser is stuck and can't shift
    2. Low oil pressure getting to the phaser through the camshaft ports and can't shift it
  6. Timing chain tensioner failing
  7. Timing chain stretched

The VVT solenoid was replaced and the wiring harness is checked good/ 5 thru 7 not sure about, how would I check these possibilities?
 

wjburken

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The VVT solenoid was replaced and the wiring harness is checked good/ 5 thru 7 not sure about, how would I check these possibilities?
Unfortunately, that requires tearing into the timing cover and taking a look. That happens when the process of elimination leads you to that point which I think you might be close to now.
 

vettes980

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I replaced the throttle body and the fuel pump, and the stalling issue seems to have disappeared but I do sill have the stabilitrak light coming on after 20 minutes of driving and after awhile it goes out and then comes on together with the check engine light? Any suggestions? I have read it is probably a bad steering wheel position sensor ?
Curious if you were checking the fuel pressure with a gauge during a period on stalling? You symptoms mimics mine exactly but I have ruled out throttle body w a new one and my fuel pressure is where it should be when it has stalled and cranking. I just received my vvt solenoid, CPS, VVT oil control bolt and water pump from rock auto today and replacing these items this weekend.


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Bruce Mace

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Curious if you were checking the fuel pressure with a gauge during a period on stalling? You symptoms mimics mine exactly but I have ruled out throttle body w a new one and my fuel pressure is where it should be when it has stalled and cranking. I just received my vvt solenoid, CPS, VVT oil control bolt and water pump from rock auto today and replacing these items this weekend.


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The fuel pressure was good. i have no more stalling issues I am just getting the annoying Stabiltrak light followed by check engine light. But now when I go to read the codes there is nothing. No more Code P0011?
or no stored codes
 

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The fuel pressure was good. i have no more stalling issues I am just getting the annoying Stabiltrak light followed by check engine light. But now when I go to read the codes there is nothing. No more Code P0011?
or no stored codes
check the code when the cel is lit up, if it is not storing a code that would lead me to think there is a short occurring then when it goes to self check the connection is good and it passes so it doesn't store a code, just my .02
 
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Bruce Mace

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check the code when the cel is lit up, if it is not storing a code that would lead me to think there is a short occurring then when it goes to self check the connection is good and it passes so it doesn't store a code, just my .02

It seems the dreaded P0011 code has reappeared. Not sure what is the next step other than thinking it is a cam chain tensioning issue or the chain is stretched?
 

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