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that could fix it but the solenoids will need replacement as it's getting stuck?Oil is 4.5k miles old in Mobil 1. Bought 10.5k miles ago 199k. Needs a change but was focusing on this issue first.
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Are there two or just one on the 6.2? All I see is one behind the water pump next to CPS. I generally try to buy AC delco parts, is Dorman ok? They’re spitting improved design over OEM in their description. Also thinking I should just swap out water pump too. Looks to be original.that could fix it but the solenoids will need replacement as it's getting stuck?
Only one solenoid for VVT as you only have 1 cam and it is behind the water pump.Are there two or just one on the 6.2? All I see is one behind the water pump next to CPS. I generally try to buy AC delco parts, is Dorman ok? They’re spitting improved design over OEM in their description. Also thinking I should just swap out water pump too. Looks to be original.
So new VVT solenoid, cam position sensor, water pump. Anything else while I’m there? The Oiler valve bolt behind the solenoid? TIA
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that could fix it but the solenoids will need replacement as it's getting stuckOil is 4.5k miles old in Mobil 1. Bought 10.5k miles ago 199k. Needs a change but was focusing on this issue first.
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Only one solenoid for VVT as you only have 1 cam and it is behind the water pump.
That’s exactly my thought and with all that has gone on with it, I suspect the TAC motor controlling the throttle body is out of sync or failing causing the butterfly to not work under idle. I had codes for the the throttle body when I bought it 1 year and 12k miles ago. I just cleaned it and the codes never came back. It’s always been in the back of my mind that I just prolonged its death. Cheap is expensive.
What codes are you getting when the Stabilitrak and check engine light come on?I replaced the throttle body and the fuel pump, and the stalling issue seems to have disappeared but I do sill have the stabilitrak light coming on after 20 minutes of driving and after awhile it goes out and then comes on together with the check engine light? Any suggestions? I have read it is probably a bad steering wheel position sensor ?
What codes are you getting when the Stabilitrak and check engine light come on?
That is the only code you are getting when both the Stabilitrak and CEL are on?I am getting a P0011
To be clear, and I have not gone back and scoured all 49 posts here, when you say actuator, are you talking about the solenoid that mounts to the timing chain cover behind the water pump or are you talking about the piece that threads into the end of the camshaft and holds the VVT phaser on?No I do not, but I have already replaced the actuator, as well as the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft postion sensor
To be clear, and I have not gone back and scoured all 49 posts here, when you say actuator, are you talking about the solenoid that mounts to the timing chain cover behind the water pump or are you talking about the piece that threads into the end of the camshaft and holds the VVT phaser on?
How many miles on the motor?
I also replaced the VVTI am talking about the one that threads into the end of the camshaft, and it has 170K on the motor
I am talking about the one that threads into the end of the camshaft, and it has 170K on the motor
Ok, so let's see if we can walk through the possible things that would cause a the camshaft to be out of position.
- Camshaft Position Sensor - Replaced
- Have you checked the condition of the wiring harness?
- Crankshaft Position Sensor - Replaced
- Have you checked the condition of the wiring harness?
- Camshaft VVT Actuator - Replaced
- Camshaft VVT Solenoid - Replaced?
- Have you checked the condition of the wiring harness?
- VVT phaser Sprocket failing to shift
- Phaser is stuck and can't shift
- Low oil pressure getting to the phaser through the camshaft ports and can't shift it
- Timing chain tensioner failing
- Timing chain stretched
Unfortunately, that requires tearing into the timing cover and taking a look. That happens when the process of elimination leads you to that point which I think you might be close to now.The VVT solenoid was replaced and the wiring harness is checked good/ 5 thru 7 not sure about, how would I check these possibilities?
Curious if you were checking the fuel pressure with a gauge during a period on stalling? You symptoms mimics mine exactly but I have ruled out throttle body w a new one and my fuel pressure is where it should be when it has stalled and cranking. I just received my vvt solenoid, CPS, VVT oil control bolt and water pump from rock auto today and replacing these items this weekend.I replaced the throttle body and the fuel pump, and the stalling issue seems to have disappeared but I do sill have the stabilitrak light coming on after 20 minutes of driving and after awhile it goes out and then comes on together with the check engine light? Any suggestions? I have read it is probably a bad steering wheel position sensor ?
Curious if you were checking the fuel pressure with a gauge during a period on stalling? You symptoms mimics mine exactly but I have ruled out throttle body w a new one and my fuel pressure is where it should be when it has stalled and cranking. I just received my vvt solenoid, CPS, VVT oil control bolt and water pump from rock auto today and replacing these items this weekend.
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check the code when the cel is lit up, if it is not storing a code that would lead me to think there is a short occurring then when it goes to self check the connection is good and it passes so it doesn't store a code, just my .02The fuel pressure was good. i have no more stalling issues I am just getting the annoying Stabiltrak light followed by check engine light. But now when I go to read the codes there is nothing. No more Code P0011?
or no stored codes
check the code when the cel is lit up, if it is not storing a code that would lead me to think there is a short occurring then when it goes to self check the connection is good and it passes so it doesn't store a code, just my .02