2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

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randeez

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If standalone weren't so damn expensive and didn't require new gauges I'd do it. I'm surprised you haven't yet.

its getting there, making the engine run is the easy part. making all the other crap work is the hard/expensive part. im thinking the easiest way to accomplish it is to trick the stock ecm into thinking its still running the engine. some of the signals you cant just split tho so you need to use outputs from the aftermarket to drive the inputs on the stock ecm. some of it you can tune out knock sensors, cam sensor, it can pretty much sit in limp mode...but needs crank signal, temp, oil, and prob a few others. on my year truck the ecm/bcm/tcm all talk. gauges over canbus i think, ac control wont work if it thinks engine temp too high, electric fan control.

ive looked into the terminator xmax with trans and dbw but there wouldnt be enough outputs to run fans/waterpump/intercooler pump/bigger fuel pump, and trick the stock ecu into thinking its working, so im into dominator ecus @$4k+
 
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randeez

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helped a friend tune a supercharged miata on ms...wasnt too bad but the plug n play harness was kinda iffy.
for a gen 4 58x ls, with trans control, still ends up being like $2800, and i think i would need to do a cable throttle body/tps/iac etc
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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Made a little progress I think, The rpm surge seems to be gone or diminishing by subtracting from the 4 cells from 12-16mph and 1,000-1,600 rpm. This is in the Throttle cracker airflow table.

The stalling has not gotten better yet with TC adjustments but I'm gonna keep at it.

I do also have some KR at such weird kinda low RPM areas, usually pops up between 2,200-3,400rpm despite that being the lowest area in the spark table at about 19* which ain't shit. I have been bumping up the timing 1* at a time in the middle and lower area just to see what it will take.

Heres some snipits showing fuel is good in the area of the KR and that its not making much timing anyway.
SD error.PNG
Advanced in the kr range.PNG
KR midrange.PNG
 

randeez

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do you feel it? does engine hesitate? running 93?

is it otherwise a high load/wot? sometimes if it goes way rich, enough to foul the plug itll show as lean because the raw fuel cools the o2 sensor
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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do you feel it? does engine hesitate? running 93?

is it otherwise a high load/wot? sometimes if it goes way rich, enough to foul the plug itll show as lean because the raw fuel cools the o2 sensor

I don't feel or hear anything during that KR, it only drinks 93 with no additives. I don't think its going lean or rich it's pretty much always within 2% or better. Truck runs great IMO, smooth acceleration and besides a little bog off the line which is my poor pedal management it never seems down on power or that its misfiring.


Maybe I will pull some plugs tomorrow and see what they look like
 
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Dantheman1540

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Is theres a magic amount of KR that makes an engine explode? Is it extended periods of KR? I feel a basic NA motor should be able to handle a fair amount
 

randeez

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if youre not hearing it, feeling it, and not blowing black smoke i wouldnt been too concerned.

i spark knocked the shit out of my few engines while/when learning to tune

data logging most stock tunes show 3-4* of retard pretty regularly
 
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Dantheman1540

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if youre not hearing it, feeling it, and not blowing black smoke i wouldnt been too concerned.

i spark knocked the shit out of my few engines while/when learning to tune

data logging most stock tunes show 3-4* of retard pretty regularly

Oh wow 3-4*on a stock tune that sounds terrible lol. It does emit a little black smoke on the shifts but that's about it. I might desensitize a tad and try adding some timing else where. Never more than 1*at a time. Idk how much is considered a lot for a basic engine but I know I have close to 27*in my buddies 408 Denali and it has no KR.
 
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Dantheman1540

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Struggled all weekend making no progress adjusting the Throttle Cracker table. A few times I'd go somewhere and it would stall then I'd get someplace else and stall twice before I got out of the neighborhood. So I reverted back 15 files ago, enabled it, and started messing with the rolling idle table, this proved to make a difference! It eliminated my stalling by keeping the rpm from plummeting so far and so fast. It's kinda hard to explain because I know an auto doesn't act like this but when I'd change gear or take the trans out of gear even for the half-second of a lazy gear change the rpm would plummet so fast that I almost needed to blip the throttle and rev-match while engaging the clutch. Otherwise, it would give a usually subtle but sometimes dramatic clunk or lurch. The rolling idle seems to let the rpm drop slower which eliminates the need to rev match, although at its current settings it's a little too slow and then seems to want to hang around the 1,300 rpm mark despite the fact the "Rolling RPM" limiter is set to 800 rpm in all cells.

So proceeding from here I will lower the Rolling idle airflow adder table by 5% until I see a difference and then try something else after that if it doesn't work.
It's just really nice to have somewhat learned a new table and to have solved a few of the problems even if I made them myself from the start.

Now I need to get these UCAs in ASAP! I keep forgetting how bad the yoke rub is and I left decently quick from a light today, all because I wanted to double check some minor timing I added into the tune. Well about the time I got to 70% throttle in 2nd gear the yoke started its maniacal frame chomping and I had to let off :(
 

randeez

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Struggled all weekend making no progress adjusting the Throttle Cracker table. A few times I'd go somewhere and it would stall then I'd get someplace else and stall twice before I got out of the neighborhood. So I reverted back 15 files ago, enabled it, and started messing with the rolling idle table, this proved to make a difference! It eliminated my stalling by keeping the rpm from plummeting so far and so fast. It's kinda hard to explain because I know an auto doesn't act like this but when I'd change gear or take the trans out of gear even for the half-second of a lazy gear change the rpm would plummet so fast that I almost needed to blip the throttle and rev-match while engaging the clutch. Otherwise, it would give a usually subtle but sometimes dramatic clunk or lurch. The rolling idle seems to let the rpm drop slower which eliminates the need to rev match, although at its current settings it's a little too slow and then seems to want to hang around the 1,300 rpm mark despite the fact the "Rolling RPM" limiter is set to 800 rpm in all cells.

So proceeding from here I will lower the Rolling idle airflow adder table by 5% until I see a difference and then try something else after that if it doesn't work.
It's just really nice to have somewhat learned a new table and to have solved a few of the problems even if I made them myself from the start.

Now I need to get these UCAs in ASAP! I keep forgetting how bad the yoke rub is and I left decently quick from a light today, all because I wanted to double check some minor timing I added into the tune. Well about the time I got to 70% throttle in 2nd gear the yoke started its maniacal frame chomping and I had to let off :(


giphy.gif
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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Ol' yoke-stroker Dan in the house...

What if it had a 408 stroker in it causing the yoke to stroke. It would be like a 3 way because the yoke would be getting stroked while also stroking, kinda like the human centipede but with yokes and strokes.

Wait….I don’t get that yoke..

I see what you did there.


Gracias senior

Hells yea. Glad you're getting somewhere!

Yes but know
 

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