2001 Chevrolet Tahoe Won't Start

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Carseller235

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We bought this SUV and it was running at the time of purchase and afterwards too but now it isn’t. It won’t start. Also it hasn’t passed smog. Wondering if we should try to get it fixed or sell it.
 
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Carseller235

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Forgot pic so here it is.
 

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Scottydoggs

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a engine needs 3 things to run, air, spark and fuel.

so make sure the air filters not clogged up, check for spark, you can pull one wire off the coil and prop it next to the coil hole where the wire was, when cranked a spark will jump to the wire, and then on the fuel rail driver side under the engine cover is a shrader valve, like a air valve on a wheel, turn key to run, then push the pin in, watch your eyes cause it should blow gas out around 2 ft high. if it dribbles out the fuel pump is likely dead, or if your year has a filter located pretty much under the drivers seat in the frame rail is clogged up solid.

lastly the cats can clog up and then the engine cant exhale. remember Beverly hills cop movie, bananas in the tail pipe? same deal.
 

justirv

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Forgot pic so here it is.
You'll want to follow @Scottydoggs advice and get things running first. Regarding smog, you didn't say what state you're in, and whether you attempted to smog before the "not running" situation popped up. A momentary loss of power to the ECU can reset all of your emissions readiness monitors.
 
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Carseller235

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You'll want to follow @Scottydoggs advice and get things running first. Regarding smog, you didn't say what state you're in, and whether you attempted to smog before the "not running" situation popped up. A momentary loss of power to the ECU can reset all of your emissions readiness monitors.
In California. Attempted to smog before not running. Doesn't pass smog as no GM catalyic converter label and no cold air intake label.
 
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Carseller235

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a engine needs 3 things to run, air, spark and fuel.

so make sure the air filters not clogged up, check for spark, you can pull one wire off the coil and prop it next to the coil hole where the wire was, when cranked a spark will jump to the wire, and then on the fuel rail driver side under the engine cover is a shrader valve, like a air valve on a wheel, turn key to run, then push the pin in, watch your eyes cause it should blow gas out around 2 ft high. if it dribbles out the fuel pump is likely dead, or if your year has a filter located pretty much under the drivers seat in the frame rail is clogged up solid.

lastly the cats can clog up and then the engine cant exhale. remember Beverly hills cop movie, bananas in the tail pipe? same deal.
I know very little about cars. Should I just take the tahoe to an auto electrician to get it fixed? You all are saying fix it before selling it. I am not sure if it's even fixable.
 

rockola1971

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Does nothing when trying to start it.
So you mean engine wont crank over? Because thats very different from engine wont start which usually means engine cranks over but will not run...>Depending on who you are talking to which is why I asked.

So you have a starting circuit problem and NOT an ignition circuit problem.

Can you hear starter solenoid click at the solenoid? Is battery charged up? Are battery cable connections loose or corroded?
 
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Carseller235

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Nothing happens when getting a jumpstart. I have been told something is left on in the vehicle.
 

Scottydoggs

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well that sounds like a dead starter.

and you'll get more money for a running driving car/truck vs a non running driving. unless its rotted out or crashed or in over all bad condition or a million miles.
 

justirv

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In California. Attempted to smog before not running. Doesn't pass smog as no GM catalyic converter label and no cold air intake label.
I think people here want to help you get it going. Only you can decide if it's worth the time or effort...
(Secondary to your primary issue) Sorry to hear about CA Smog, I have the same challenge.
I had to replace the cats on my '02 Z71. MagnaFlow has a CARB rated, bolt-in, Y-pipe with dual Cat replacement but it's not as cheap now. You may be able to source used cats locally. I'd swap out a stock air box for visual inspection on the cheap, or R/R with a CARB rated CAI if that's your preference.
 

lyncht1967

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could be several things...first thing is to rule out bad battery cables. get battery charged and tested at auto parts store (free) if bad get new batt. then, as a test connect one end of a black jumper cable to batt negative and other end of black jumper cable to block somewhere and try cranking...if it starts you have a bad negative battery cable..common on these models. can do the same thing from batt pos to starter pos post and try cranking..if it starts you have a bad positive battery cable. also common issues on these models...i had the same issue a month ago and it was bad negative batt cable. when doing pos test connect to starter pos first and batt pos post last.
 

Rocket Man

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I know very little about cars. Should I just take the tahoe to an auto electrician to get it fixed? You all are saying fix it before selling it. I am not sure if it's even fixable.
If you know very little about cars there’s slim chance we can help you diagnose it online. Add that to the fact you also need it to pass CA emissions and it sounds like it’s missing some things that are required for that, I have no advice other than do what you think is best for your situation. Your username suggests you’re a car seller, as in you’re flipping cars? I would try to recoup as much money as possible and call it a day. Otherwise, you could be throwing more money into something that you’ll never get back. Buying an old vehicle and not knowing anything about them is risky.
 

RET423

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Here's the problem, in California you will need to buy the CARB approved catalytic converters & replace the air intake with a stock system or aftermarket that also has a CARB number to get a passing smog test

If you are going to pay a shop to do those 2 things you are going to spend a lot of money as CARB approved parts cost much more than the parts people outside of California get to buy

I would get an estimate on doing those 2 things before you go any further because I think you might decide the vehicle isn't worth that expense even if it was running great right now, so selling as a mechanics special might be your best option

With that said, I doubt the no start is a very big deal & the salvage yards are full of stock air intakes for cheap, the catalytic converters can also be changed at home since the entire Y-pipe is sold assembled & is a bolt in part; if your mechanicaly oriented you could get it squared away for less than a grand I bet

But paying California shop rates for diagnostics & repairs will quickly surpass the value of an SUV with more than 20 birthdays

Good luck!
 

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