10 bolt to 14 Bolt, 9.5 sf swap

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Paul_Kaos

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Well, now I see what he's trying to accomplish.

It seems he wants to compete with his truck in some off-road adventures.

@randeez did the front and rear swap but used different parts and didn't do 8-lug, he kept the 6-lug setup.

IMO, the 14-Bolt used in our trucks would be an easier swap than the H2s rear differential which is different and has 8 lugs. I wonder if he knows it even exists?
Yes, its not a 10", its not full floater, it doesnt have 4.10 gears. Its another grenadelocker instead of an elocker

Got any reason to use it over mine besides your pretty princess twinkle toe lugnut preference?
 

Paul_Kaos

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Talking to me like my desires are not fully baked is pissing me off here...

Im telling you why specifically

*The 8lug stuff from the h2 is the highest rated stuff*

Youre literally looking at the sane version, mk1 of this dream involved cutting some inches from the center of a complete h2 in full running order and relocating mounting tabs to plop my tahoe on top of

But my frame rails will get the job done lol

I may end up with a diff drop in the front Im still not 100% what the actual h2 front frame section IS...

For now Im building it RWD because Im not tackling the 4x4 stuff until the manual swap. All that shit bolts together. Its several $1500 items bolted together with custom machine work... I'll prob build the engine with the 14 bolt rwd and then hoard the trans/tcase/front diff etc all while Im destroying the 4l60

Ive thought about what I want to do here nearly five years its go time I need part numbers lol
 

Paul_Kaos

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Literally my *only* concern is the actual bigger diff and clearance but both the h2 and all of the comparable trucks to what Im building also take the fat pumpkin penalty...

You just try to armor is and make it up with tire

The junkyard 4.10 elocker cant be beat

Its a 10" full floater and its also got FRONT caliper mounting, on the back, which means you can hang much bigger calipers back there.

Anywho Im tired of typing the same things over and over to combative and unreceptive people online let me know if anyone can lead me in the right direction for the uni- adapter...

Just call a ******* GM dealership and get the parts for both things then google adapter

There's no community here theres a bunch of dudes who wanna gate keep info and shove their ******* opinions into your build

If this wasnt my dead fathers truck Id crush it and buy a Toyota or a Ford, everything I wanna do is easier there and the people can read above 8th grade level...
 

Dantheman1540

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Literally my *only* concern is the actual bigger diff and clearance but both the h2 and all of the comparable trucks to what Im building also take the fat pumpkin penalty...

You just try to armor is and make it up with tire

The junkyard 4.10 elocker cant be beat

Its a 10" full floater and its also got FRONT caliper mounting, on the back, which means you can hang much bigger calipers back there.

Anywho Im tired of typing the same things over and over to combative and unreceptive people online let me know if anyone can lead me in the right direction for the uni- adapter...

Just call a ******* GM dealership and get the parts for both things then google adapter

There's no community here theres a bunch of dudes who wanna gate keep info and shove their ******* opinions into your build

If this wasnt my dead fathers truck Id crush it and buy a Toyota or a Ford, everything I wanna do is easier there and the people can read above 8th grade level...
It’s a 9.5” semi floater not a 10” full floater.

I love these axles and responded nicely on your other post before seeing this. I’ve swapped two of these in different trucks and have a buddy with the exact axle you want in his gmt800 Tahoe with now a working 6l80 in front of it. Gotta be nice tho dude, just say sorry and all will be forgiven and people will help again. This forum is super super nice, not everyone knows the answers you seek but they were just trying to help/understand.
 

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Paul_Kaos

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It’s a 9.5” semi floater not a 10” full floater.

I love these axles and responded nicely on your other post before seeing this. I’ve swapped two of these in different trucks and have a buddy with the exact axle you want in his gmt800 Tahoe with now a working 6l80 in front of it. Gotta be nice tho dude, just say sorry and all will be forgiven and people will help again. This forum is super super nice, not everyone knows the answers you seek but they were just trying to help/understand.
Well I guess Im sorry but as you can see, Geotrash is trying to have a conflict in here...

Im tired of constantly having to argue with neysayers who are the first people out of the gate.

Yeah what youve got there is right along the lines of what Im trying to build.

People have generally attacked all of my plans so I get tired of it...
 

Paul_Kaos

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It’s a 9.5” semi floater not a 10” full floater.

I love these axles and responded nicely on your other post before seeing this. I’ve swapped two of these in different trucks and have a buddy with the exact axle you want in his gmt800 Tahoe with now a working 6l80 in front of it. Gotta be nice tho dude, just say sorry and all will be forgiven and people will help again. This forum is super super nice, not everyone knows the answers you seek but they were just trying to help/understand.
Can I just DM you, youve got what Im building at this point besides me building a full-time 4x4 6spd...

You'll know must of what I need to know along the way or know someone who does.
 

kbuskill

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I'm not even sure why this guy is on here asking idiots like us for help, it sounds like he has it all figured out.

What it really sounds like he wants is an H2 with a Tahoe body, which doesn't seem like it would be all that difficult to do... or perhaps he just likes to troll because he doesn't know how to build a truck without someone telling him exactly what to do and holding his hand.

But what do I know, I am just one of those internet idiots... lol
 

Paul_Kaos

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I'm not even sure why this guy is on here asking idiots like us for help, it sounds like he has it all figured out.

What it really sounds like he wants is an H2 with a Tahoe body, which doesn't seem like it would be all that difficult to do... or perhaps he just likes to troll because he doesn't know how to build a truck without someone telling him exactly what to do and holding his hand.

But what do I know, I am just one of those internet idiots... lol
Well, an h2 with a 4" crank, a blower, a zf6 swap, and a long travel suspension when its all said and done, with a tahoe on it...

Ive looked at shortening an h2 and body swapping

My chassis is good and rust free and the h2 is *definitely* a 1500 gmt820 in the back, there are no 2500 frame sections with the mounts for a Tahoe four link.

My suspicion is the entire truck is essentially a *lengthened* Tahoe chassis (to suburban center wheelbase) with a 1500hd 4x4 front section, then HD everything from there down, and the one off rear axle... The drivetrain is the special part of the whole truck, then the frame is modified to get all that under the body it seems?

I do not think the h2 has a taller frame segment up front than in the back. They are 1500 frame rails with HD 8 lug running gear. People call it a 2500 because they dont understand that 1500hds exist or what that really entails. Its 8lug and HD arms on 1500 thin frame rails...

So... Swapping frame rails is extra work for no gains lol...

I have to make mine 4x4 but the left diff mount unbolts and on the right you *can* do a diff drop *but* the driver side diff mount brackets literally have a grinder disk gap from the flange to the frame rail where you can get them off and then Im planning to either drill those flanges or weld on better flanges and then make them also bolt through the frame with pinch tubes if possible. I like being able to move stuff around and also itll be easier to weld not where the frame is given my situation...

Other than a 4x4 conversion that Ive worked out is definitely possible talking to a few people who have done it, and the 8lug/hd conversion stuff Ive also explained and we all agree works, I can just H2 the existing truck and chassis, which is easier as its iterative instead of my actual original plan of starting with a whole h2.

This lets me pick and choose parts too. Like finding a cheap auction h2 with 410 gears wouldnt be easy...

For the tcase and lq block I still might be smarter getting a totalled truck and parting it but I dont have anywhere to part a damn h2 from lol
 

swathdiver

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Paul, you are getting flak because your plan is not well thought out and people see it. You don't even know that the H2 has a 9.5" 14-Bolt semi-floater. The phrase, "junkyard 4.10 elocker cant be beat" also displays that you know something that isn't so. Gears are easy to change and not permanently married to the carrier. The 2008-2009 H2 used 3.73 gears behind the 6L80.

GM's Blacklake XT1 Prerunner uses 6 lug hubs and axles. We use more lugs to haul more weight, not for racing. I have done burnouts in a car with 1 lugnut securing the wheel and didn't break it.

So having said that, if your goals were mine I would look to see if the 9.5" axle for the RWD Escalades and Denalis would accommodate the 8 lug axle shaft with its pressed on reluctor ring. If they are of a different length, I would have Moser make me some custom axles. I would probably do that anyway as I would want c-clip eliminators. I say this without knowing the configuration of the brackets for mounting the H2 differential to a GMT900. Never seen one. I do know that there is a 2.4 inch difference in rear track width between the two.

I would not use the E-Locker but rather an Eaton Limited Slip center section. All that sideways horsing around will soon break even an e-locker. The limited slip can handle it.

I would not bother with the 9.25" front axle. I would use the ZR2 e-locker regardless of its size. It's plenty strong for a pre-runner and horsing around. Most of the time you'll be in 2WD anyway. That's why GM didn't make lockers for them, 99.999% of the time a front locker is not needed, even in racing.

If you insist on the old 9.25", then I would go to Randy's pages where he shows how to adapt one to a GMT900 in multiple configurations, lifted, lowered, regular height. He had custom CV Axles made for it. Even if you keep the 8 lug pattern, I suspect you would need narrower CV Axles for it.

I would keep the 1344 universal joints for the front axle and run 1415 universal joints on the rear axle.

Here are some resources that will help you on your quest:


chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://aamaftermarket.s3.amazonaws.com/resources/pdf/file-20160701132403.pdf

www.demandaam.com

chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/2004_LD_HummerSUV.pdf

chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/2013_LD_Util_071713.pdf
 

kbuskill

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Paul, you are getting flak because your plan is not well thought out and people see it.
I disagree, I think he is getting flak because he came here asking the community for help/info and when someone said something he disagreed with he decided to run off at the mouth and insult the people he was asking for help.

I think his screen name says it all Kaos (Chaos) which is what he is trying to stir up. Typical keyboard commando, 12' tall and made of steel over the internet but wouldn't dare say things in person. (Oops, I sunk to his level of name calling). I believe it was Mark Twain that said you should "Never argue with a fool because they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience"... lol

I find it amusing that he talks trash and then plays the victim card by saying @Geotrash is trying to create conflict.

You started name calling and complaining that this site is lame and how pirate 4x4 would appreciate your "build" so why are you here again?

You ran a shop for 3 years but can't figure out your own part numbers? Who told you what parts to order when you were "running" the shop?

I don't expect an answer to any of these questions, just pointing out the hypocrisy and the things I find amusing.

Sorry, proceed with your complaining and name calling.

I have lived long enough to learn that you get more flies with honey than you do with vinegar. I have also learned that I may not like the truth, but it is still the truth, and I would rather hear the truth than to be lied to just to protect my ego.

As a side note it still seems a lot easier to get an H2, even if you had to shorten the frame to fit a Tahoe body, than to have to fabricate all the suspension and axles and what not onto a Tahoe frame.

I know you mentioned this Tahoe being your fathers and it having sentimental value, which I can appreciate. Perhaps a Suburban body on the H2 frame would be the easiest and just keep the Tahoe for sentimental reasons.
 
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5StarCustmSolutns

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GM's Blacklake XT1 Prerunner uses 6 lug hubs and axles. We use more lugs to haul more weight, not for racing. I have done burnouts in a car with 1 lugnut securing the wheel and didn't break it.
yes
So having said that, if your goals were mine I would look to see if the 9.5" axle for the RWD Escalades and Denalis would accommodate the 8 lug axle shaft with its pressed on reluctor ring. If they are of a different length, I would have Moser make me some custom axles. I would probably do that anyway as I would want c-clip eliminators. I say this without knowing the configuration of the brackets for mounting the H2 differential to a GMT900. Never seen one. I do know that there is a 2.4 inch difference in rear track width between the two.
for a more expedient AAM 950 rear axle assembly search figure out the VIN numbers that indicate RWD and then look for the RPO code AXN
I would not use the E-Locker but rather an Eaton Limited Slip center section. All that sideways horsing around will soon break even an e-locker. The limited slip can handle it.
or the Eaton TrueTrac....the way the worm gears clamp down on the thicker axle shafts in the 9.5 combined with the beef of the TruTrac carrier(2x thicker case than G80 w/o the fist size hole in one side) has to be nearly as robust as the c-clip eliminator...
I would not bother with the 9.25" front axle. I would use the ZR2 e-locker regardless of its size. It's plenty strong for a pre-runner and horsing around. Most of the time you'll be in 2WD anyway. That's why GM didn't make lockers for them, 99.999% of the time a front locker is not needed, even in racing.
e-locker in front only, and really only needed for rock crawling. W/good tires and the TruTrac I barely even use 4wd anymore

If you insist on the old 9.25", then I would go to Randy's pages where he shows how to adapt one to a GMT900 in multiple configurations, lifted, lowered, regular height. He had custom CV Axles made for it. Even if you keep the 8 lug pattern, I suspect you would need narrower CV Axles for it.
most def go read Randy's page about 9.25 swap... after reading through the whole ordeal and a couple messages exchanged w/him, I was confident I didn't need to add anymore to my plate and stuck with the 8.25. If you drove an 8.25 and a 9.25 back to back over challenging terrain, you'd have a 50/50 chance of guessing which was which
you can do just about anything with enough money, the right tools, a moderate comprehension of the engineering these components are designed with and the knowledge of how they work together as a system. But I will say from personal experience, its really easy to get overwhelmed by the enormity of what youre wanting to do.. If I could start over again, I wouldve waited until I had several thousand more than I thought I needed and started with a solid plan on paper and copied in quadruplicate vs trying to stay on top of everything in my head and then having to pause and create that plan in the middle of a major mod project...
You got the right advice from the right guy here... If you look you'll find @swathdiver offering solid suggestions in every single thread about a rear axle upgrade on this site, on any major project actually... Zero % chance I would be climbing all over the mountains of WV on an AAM 950 if he hadn't offered guidance.....and I most assuredly would not be running through the final stages of fabricating my own long travel suspension had I not learned to crawl first
put pen to paper and make a plan, document the whole process and share it on here.. I'll gladly help if Im able.. A creative mind and a plasma torch are two of my fav things lol.. Good Luck
 

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