What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Fless said:

It works. See link below. I put the arms from an earlier Suburban on mine. Pick n Pull FTW.

ISO: Wiper arms with splines

2004 Z71 5.3L Does anyone know where to purchase wiper arms with the splines in the bolt holes? My truck has a wiper arm post made for splines in the wiper arms, but can't find any arms in retail sites that are built for splines. Any help is appreciated!

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

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mikez71 said:

Well it's running again...
View attachment 482667

But noticed this.. I can't seem to square it up..
View attachment 482666
I don't feel like doing valve covers just yet.. If I twist it off, how much does a broken plastic tab matter? (inside the head)
I saw a video where someone used a 90deg pick to pry up on the plastic retainer tab.. Not confident I will succeed with that..
Also saw a video where the guy put the cap right on valve cover and it fits perfectly..

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TheAutumnWind said:

Can confirm that filler neck and the cap have the same thread. You can just screw the cap into the valve cover without the neck.

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ScottyBoy said:

Had to jump start my Suburban to move it to cut the grass around it. The poor old girl is just sitting out there getting weathered now that I don't drive her anymore. My wife says I should just sell it, but I just can't bring myself to get rid of a perfectly good vehicle (does need a battery now though). I don't drive it anymore because I have a company vehicle that's my daily driver now.

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mikez71 said:

I wish I did! Instead I ordered an amazon part, its loose to valve cover.. If i press on it, it leaks!
$15 seemed better than $47 OEM.. (But $0 would have been better...)
Don't buy the YCUPONE brand.. Hard to complain too much for $20 delivered this morning, ordered last night..
Me pressing on it lightly making it leak.. Normally it sits pretty square, but there just isn't much tension on the o-ring..
View attachment 482711

It seemed impossible to use a pick to undo the locking tab, it has to make it around the bend, and my pick was too short..
Removed old one, the tab didn't break initially, but the whole bottom part did!
Luckily I could fish it out with needle nose.. All bits accounted for.
View attachment 482710

Now my right rear window went down and clunked, won't go up anymore..

Rear heater does not work.. AC works.. Will have to check hoses to see if they are looped in back..

Little worried my tailpipe still has water after idling for a long time.. Drove around the block and finally tailpipe is dry, but coolant level dropped 1"..
Hoping it was just an incomplete bleed, otherwise I may have bigger issues..

ECT good and steady at 194 and oil pressure good at ~35psi hot idle..
Watched misfire counter and only ever saw 1 blipping throttle several times..
Hooked up my tech 2, but some reason fuel trim and chime pages don't load, but I can see fuel trims and they're 1-3% for all..

Well time to pull the rear door panel, I hope I don't need some more plastic parts to fix the window..

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mikez71 said:

At least the price is reasonable, so I'll order a new regulator unit.
Open to tips/suggestions on replacement, OEM isn't available for the rears...
View attachment 482715

What's more concerning to me, when I open the reservoir cap, there's pressure or vacuum.. (will verify soon)
If vacuum, I'm hoping it's from an incomplete bleed or faulty cap..
If pressure, what else but a blown HG would do it? I'm scared...

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Tonyrodz said:

Try swapping the oem O rings to the cheap part. Might be that's all it'll need to fix it.

I get my parts from Amazon, but before I order I ALWAYS check the reviews 1st. I skip over the parts that have less then 50 reviews.

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mikez71 said:

I wish I did! Instead I ordered an amazon part, its loose to valve cover.. If i press on it, it leaks!
$15 seemed better than $47 OEM.. (But $0 would have been better...)
Don't buy the YCUPONE brand.. Hard to complain too much for $20 delivered this morning, ordered last night..
Me pressing on it lightly making it leak.. Normally it sits pretty square, but there just isn't much tension on the o-ring..
View attachment 482711

It seemed impossible to use a pick to undo the locking tab, it has to make it around the bend, and my pick was too short..
Removed old one, the tab didn't break initially, but the whole bottom part did!
Luckily I could fish it out with needle nose.. All bits accounted for.
View attachment 482710

Now my right rear window went down and clunked, won't go up anymore..

Rear heater does not work.. AC works.. Will have to check hoses to see if they are looped in back..

Little worried my tailpipe still has water after idling for a long time.. Drove around the block and finally tailpipe is dry, but coolant level dropped 1"..
Hoping it was just an incomplete bleed, otherwise I may have bigger issues..

ECT good and steady at 194 and oil pressure good at ~35psi hot idle..
Watched misfire counter and only ever saw 1 blipping throttle several times..
Hooked up my tech 2, but some reason fuel trim and chime pages don't load, but I can see fuel trims and they're 1-3% for all..

Well time to pull the rear door panel, I hope I don't need some more plastic parts to fix the window..

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Electrickian said:

Got the broken junkyard bezel fixed. Plastic welded 4 broken spots at the top edge, and attached 4 missing clips. Plastic welded those on too. I sanded rough spots down, then used plastic adhesion promoter, then sprayed with charcoal grey interior trim paint. What do you think?

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mikez71 said:

Installed Spectra radiator and dorman hoses and t's, and delco radiator hoses. Stupid cooler line clips were too tight on radiator. Muscled the trans lines in, but oil cooler ports needed original clips. I would have paid more to avoid that frustration. Why are they called quick-connects when they always take longer than the old hose clamp?! Hopefully radiator doesn't leak as hard as I was shoving on it. Also the little plastic washer cover was hard to fit over the Spectra clips. If you go Spectra, use all your original clips! Original on right side.

Heater T's were a struggle, cut the retainer tabs as @Doubeleive suggests, and luckily the T disconnects from heater core since that would be really hard to reach with any cutters I have..


Had to insert wires and conduit into main conduit bundle. As they were, the edge of conduit could wear through wire insulation.


Coolant tank just arrived, going to install and fire it up soon..

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ScottyBoy said:

Had to jump start my Suburban to move it to cut the grass around it. The poor old girl is just sitting out there getting weathered now that I don't drive her anymore. My wife says I should just sell it, but I just can't bring myself to get rid of a perfectly good vehicle (does need a battery now though). I don't drive it anymore because I have a company vehicle that's my daily driver now.

Click to expand...