Diy catch can install

[cjweb11]

The bolt used for mounting the catch can, is that the original bolt that was in place or did yall have to buy a longer one to accommodate the mounting bracket? Thanks

 

[D_R_C]

The bolt used for mounting the catch can, is that the original bolt that was in place or did yall have to buy a longer one to accommodate the mounting bracket? Thanks

If your talking about mounting on the master cylinder bolt, you use the same bolt and nut.
Just remove the nut on the left side of the master cylinder, slide the catch can bracket on the bolt, put the nut back on and tighten it up.
I first positioned the catch can on the bracket, tightened up the set screw then mounted it, then I ran the hoses to the proper locations.

I prefer this location over a few others that I've seen on this forum.
Easy access to drain, no power steering in the way and with this style catch can there is nothing to unscrew and remove.

 

[cjweb11]

Awesome thank you, got mine ordered and on its way, will be using the same mounting location as you did

 

[cjweb11]

As far as the PCV hose goes, is there a certain brand/type I should go with over others?

I like that hose you used DRC, looks to be insulated, i've heard some off the shelf pcv/fuel hose at autozone for example will collapse under heat

 

[D_R_C]

Awesome thank you, got mine ordered and on its way, will be using the same mounting location as you did

Just a FYI there are NO performance or mileage gains with this mod.
But doing something to help control the PCV oil vapors from entering in the intake is a good thing.
The dealers call it the dirty intake line as it pulls, thru vacuum the oil vapors from the driver side valve cover into the intake.
I've always done PCV reroutes open systems, but these closed system catch cans are cleaner they trap a high % of the oil vapors and is emissions legal.

---------- Post added at 09:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 AM ----------

As far as the PCV hose goes, is there a certain brand/type I should go with over others?

I like that hose you used DRC, looks to be insulated, i've heard some off the shelf pcv/fuel hose at autozone for example will collapse under heat

I used 3/8" ID FUEL/VAC/PCV hose from NAPA, I felt it would be better quality than at AutoZone or any of the other discount parts.
I also used 5/8" ID asphalt cloth loom for insulation you should be able to see that in the first set of pictures. It slides over the 3/8" hose but a little tight, I sprayed a little soapy water on the outside of the 3/8" hose to work it on.

 

[cjweb11]

So the guy at my local NAPA was very confused by my request, asked to see which hose it was under the hood, then said he didn't have what I was looking for... so I went back to my online search, which has only turned up this:

http://www.francishardware.com/hose...04_12130/fuel-line-58odx38idx25-p-114560.html

I dont really want to pay $40 for 25' but I wanted input on the spec's they provided to see if it's compatible/safe to use: vac/temp/material/design/etc.

Thanks again

 

[D_R_C]

The 3/8" ID fuel/vapor/PCV line is separate from the 5/8" ID asphalt coated cloth loom.
You might try calling another Napa or the same one and ask for someone that knows something.
I had the same problem with 2 Napa's on the cloth loom they did not know that anything like this existed.
I know they carry 3/8" ID fuel line.
I've been buying this from Napa for years, sold by the foot not 25'.
The cloth loom does not have a split in it like the plastic split wire loom.

HERE IS THE NAPA PART # 737105 FOR THE 5/8" CLOTH LOOM
TO USE FOR INSULATION OVER THE 3/8" FUEL/VAPOR/PCV HOSE.

I bought 6' length of fuel line and 6' length of cloth loom for the job with a little left over on both.

Here's what the cloth loom looks like.
http://www.maneywire.com/images/Asphalt Coated Automotive Wire Loom.jpg

 

[cjweb11]

So after talking to the manager they had both the hose and loom in stock just like you said, just did the install Friday, thanks for all the help and instruction, easy once you have what ya need.


No maintenance instruction came in the box, from what I understand, drain the can about every oil change, how often do the filters themselves need to be replaced? I assume you can just email Russ for replacements?

 

[D_R_C]

So after talking to the manager they had both the hose and loom in stock just like you said, just did the install Friday, thanks for all the help and instruction, easy once you have what ya need.


No maintenance instruction came in the box, from what I understand, drain the can about every oil change, how often do the filters themselves need to be replaced? I assume you can just email Russ for replacements?

I'm happy to help, glad you gots everything.

I'm also disappointed with NO instructions, I had to read his vague online instructions a few times on which hose went where.
It's pretty simple once you've installed one, but having a little more information before you install your first one would help.

YES! You just drain the oil from the can using the pet **** every oil change.

I actually got more info on this product by calling CCA for info, I did some searching before I bought from Russ @ http://catchcans.com/can1.html
The one's CCA sells looks identical to Russ's, but Russ's is about $32 less including shipping.
http://www.customcorvetteaccessories.com/oilcatchcan.html
CCA tells me the filters last forever typical full of BS salesman.

CCA also sells these on Amazon, you have to search for the colors.
http://www.amazon.com/PCV-Oil-Catch-Can-Black/dp/B002P4O3NE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1

 

[BigBlueLB756]

Here's some good info:

http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/PCV Line Oil Removal 102.pdf

 

[cjweb11]

Just drained he can for the first time after an oil change, probably was about 4000miles since installed. Looks like its right around 1 ounce of oil was trapped, well see again in another 6000
Money well spent

 

[D_R_C]

One ounce ain't bad after 4K, but when the miles rack up and you have more blow-by then having a CC would be something everyone IMO should consider installing.
Might as well install one sooner than later.

 

[Reb03lb7]

why not just run it to the frame rail and leave it open?

 

[D_R_C]

why not just run it to the frame rail and leave it open?

You can do it that way if you want, I did it that way to my Diesel.
The reason for the catch can is you will pass emissions without any BS failure.

 

[Reb03lb7]

You can do it that way if you want, I did it that way to my Diesel.
The reason for the catch can is you will pass emissions without any BS failure.

just making sure there isn't a mechanical reason. no emission crap here, hasn't been since '96

 

[D_R_C]

just making sure there isn't a mechanical reason. no emission crap here, hasn't been since '96

You might ask this ? with a mechanic. With these gassers you only use the driver side PCV for the catch can. On diesels you vent out both-sides for the PCV open system or closed.
IMO with a gasser I feel it would be better to use a CatchCan closed system.
JMO.

 

[Alex29573]

Why do we only use the drivers side? Why not the passenger side valve cover?

 

[Marioski]

Mine should be in today and going to do this mod sometime this week. Thanks!

 

[D_R_C]

From what one membes said you could do both sides, he said the majority of the vapors at least 90% come from the driverside.
The dealers refers the passenger side PCV as the clean air intake, the driverside PVC is the dirty air intake. This cleared it up for me to just do the driverside.

 

[Alex29573]

Now that i think of it... Both cylinder heads drain oil down into the same crankcase

Why would one side differ (clean/dirty) if at the end they both lead to the same spot?