Hum...Head gasket?

[mijohnst]

Howdy, Peps!

Thoughts on this ugly sight? I drained my oil, and it looks contaminated. It initially came out a little lumpy. Antifreeze? I'm wondering if I've got a blown head gasket. If so, I'm looking at this as an opportunity to upgrade my cam, lifters, timing chain, water pump, etc...

 

[justirv]

Howdy, Peps!

Thoughts on this ugly sight? I drained my oil, and it looks contaminated. It initially came out a little lumpy. Antifreeze? I'm wondering if I've got a blown head gasket. If so, I'm looking at this as an opportunity to upgrade my cam, lifters, timing chain, water pump, etc...


View attachment 478644

I do like windows of opportunity. Any compression test readings? You can also check for Castech logo markings on the head(s) when one pulls the valve cover. Others should jump in soon with solid advice.

 

[mattbta]

If the heads are 706, pull the valve covers and the rocker tray and look for the castech logo. If so, you likely have cracked heads and not a gasket problem. Mine didn't crack until ~162k miles. Then a refurb set cracked in <500 miles. Avoid the battery logo and good luck!

 

[mijohnst]

I rented a pressure tester kit and put about 15lbs of pressure and see exactly where it's leaking. It's squeezing out right above where the heater core hoses attach.

I'm hoping I don't have a cracked head. When I get my valve covers off, I'll defiantly look to see what I've got. Thank you for that! ** I just went and looked and my heads are 862, so hopefully I'm safe.

I've put in an order for a BTR Truck Norris with the top end rebuild kit. Also added a new timing chain and high pressure oil pump since I'm going to be pulling the cover off.

 

[Doubeleive]

I rented a pressure tester kit and put about 15lbs of pressure and see exactly where it's leaking. It's squeezing out right above where the heater core hoses attach.

I'm hoping I don't have a cracked head. When I get my valve covers off, I'll defiantly look to see what I've got. Thank you for that!

I've put in an order for a BTR Truck Norris with the top end rebuild kit. Also added a new timing chain and high pressure oil pump since I'm going to be pulling the cover off.

View attachment 478832

blown gaskets are extremely rare on these engines, cracked head is much more likely, you can pull them off and find the local shop that resurfaces and checks them. probably run you $150 or so. then you know for sure if you need a replacement or not

 

[Fless]

When I get my valve covers off, I'll defiantly look to see what I've got.

Definitely don't be too defiant, please. Go with what the data tells you.

 

[mattbta]

Good call on the pressure tester, I used one after the first refurb set to verify. I think we've heard reports of _some_ 862's cracking but it is rare.

 

[mijohnst]

Thanks for all the input! I think I've talked myself into going ahead and buying some refurbished 243 or 799 heads. Anyone recommend a place that won't put me in the poor house?

 

[Doubeleive]

Thanks for all the input! I think I've talked myself into going ahead and buying some refurbished 243 or 799 heads. Anyone recommend a place that won't put me in the poor house?

out of curiosity how many miles on this engine, I will take a wild guess of 226k

 

[mijohnst]

out of curiosity how many miles on this engine, I will take a wild guess of 226k

Close! I'm at 210k.

 

[Doubeleive]

Close! I'm at 210k.

yep, i would bet money it's a cracked head of some fashion, if you were just going to fix and send it I would say throw a couple bottles of bluedevil in and call it day. although it 's possibly beyond that, have you been having to add coolant for a while?

 

[mijohnst]

Thanks, @Doubeleive .... I think I'm just going to buy some new heads. Looking for some suggestions on where to buy a set of 243 or 799 heads that someone has already refurbished.

 

[Doubeleive]

Thanks, @Doubeleive .... I think I'm just going to buy some new heads. Looking for some suggestions on where to buy a set of 243 or 799 heads that someone has already refurbished.

I would call around any local shops

 

[LsHart]

Question, new head bolts being used or the same ones? Just a question. Lol

 

[LsHart]

Thanks for all the input! I think I've talked myself into going ahead and buying some refurbished 243 or 799 heads. Anyone recommend a place that won't put me in the poor house?

A friend of mine has some heads. Might turn them loose.imma check on what he has.

 

[mattbta]

Question, new head bolts being used or the same ones? Just a question. Lol

OEM bolts are torque-to-yield (TTY) so they need replacing. I went with ARP bolts (there are two styles of OEM, be sure to check) as my pic shows. These have an easier torque sequence (values vs angles), as well as being reusable. If you're doing a build, might go with studs.

 

[mijohnst]

Thanks for the info, guys, and thanks @LsHart for the offer to connect me with your friend. I ended up finding a highly rated shop that specializes in 243 and 799 head rebuilds and went ahead and ordered a set. All the BTR parts I picked up are showing up today as well. Now it’s on to the dreaded part… getting that old oil pump off without having to drop the pan.

 

[SpareParts]

Thanks for the info, guys, and thanks @LsHart for the offer to connect me with your friend. I ended up finding a highly rated shop that specializes in 243 and 799 head rebuilds and went ahead and ordered a set. All the BTR parts I picked up are showing up today as well. Now it’s on to the dreaded part… getting that old oil pump off without having to drop the pan.

It's not that hard. I can change the pump in about 3 hours from start to finish if i don't mess around to much.

 

[Doubeleive]

Thanks for the info, guys, and thanks @LsHart for the offer to connect me with your friend. I ended up finding a highly rated shop that specializes in 243 and 799 head rebuilds and went ahead and ordered a set. All the BTR parts I picked up are showing up today as well. Now it’s on to the dreaded part… getting that old oil pump off without having to drop the pan.

is it going to need tune?, not sure what all your changing

 

[West 1]

IF changing the Oil pump from the front the hardest part is getting the bolt out of the pick up tube and reinstalling it after the new pump is installed. The trick I used for this was to tie Dental floss around the pick up tube mount bolt as soon as I had it cracked loose enough to slip the string on the threads. With the string tied the bolt can't fall into the pan and be lost. Second advantage is the string will continue to wrap around the threads as you remove the bolt. Leave the string wrapped on the bolt to use on install later. On install you put the bolt up in place and start the bolt in the threads of the pump. Now pull the string. As you pull the bolt threads back up into the pump quickly. Once the bolt is nearly up all the way just snap off the string. Tighten the bolt and you are done. Since there is no room for a good tool to get on that bolt and spin it in this was the fastest way I have found. Did it on the last 2 I worked on and was very happy with the time savings. Hope it helps. Glide Dental Floss is pretty good stuff, strong enough to do this as explained.